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Hi I have a 1990 Bedford rascal camper which has been relatively ok, I decided to change spark plugs,points, condenser,rotor arm and distributor cap to give it a service and it started no problems fine.When I tried to start it today it started ok was running for a awhile then stopped. I tried to start it but it just won't fire up...., I checked plugs, ht leads and re checked points gap but nothing just can't get my head around it I'm no mechanic only a DIY merchant it was running ok before the change just took a while to start that's why I decided it was overdue for some new plugs etc.just need advice
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I changed the points on a Mk2 Cortina once and the car would run and then just stop. Sometimes it would then fire up, othertimes not. Turned out that the new points were faulty and were sticking open, hence no spark. Fitted another set of points and it was fine. Could possibly be the problem you are having.
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Was gonna order ht leads but when I spoke to parts man he said if it was running fine after putting new plugs in tis probably not leads.I put old points back on just now and still nothing,I'm getting confused with the points gap...I followed the book , turn engine clockwise with spanner until points fully open inserted feeler gauge adjusted screw,tightened up re checked gap...when I looked at a previous site the guy said adjust them when closed this can't be right surely ?
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The points gap should be set when open otherwise they'll never close. Is the new condenser OK? If it shorts then the effect is like the points not opening.
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As I mentioned everything was working, the condenser is new the only thing I can think is no spark at the plugs just can't see why as it turned over and worked last night......
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Turn the engine over manually until the points are closed. Turn on the ignition and flick the points open with something, you should see a small spark - do you?
If you get a spark at the points, replace the rotor arm and distributor cap. Remove a plug lead and one at a time, put a plug in it, hold it against the engine so the body's earthed while someone turns the engine on the starter. Are the plugs sparking?
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I would say that either the points gap is incorrect,or you have assembled the points/condenser wiring wrongly.Did you remove the dizzy to replace the parts??
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Got metric feeler gauge and checked gap again re- set 0.50mm still nothing,took new spark plugs out put old ones back in after a quick clean, tried to fire up but as I didn't have choke out didn't quite get there then no firing at all,took one plug out and it's wet looking..put it on crankcase turned it over but no spark....as I mentioned previous to changing everything over motor worked fine just took a few goes before finally firing up.I checked that the ht leads were all in order not damaged and not crossed all connections to condenser are secure points earth lead all fine, what have I missed ?? I don't think the coil has gone as it was working fine two days ago,plenty of fuel in the tank it's gotta be an electrical problem just can't think what it is.....
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Sorry took long getting back ...took plugs out put old ones back in it tried to start for about three goes then nothing,manually closed points as you said turned on ignition no spark at points and no spark at spark plug can't this....!
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Using a 12v test lamp check for a voltage supply at the coil positive terminal with the ignition on.
If you have check for a voltage supply at the coil negative terminal with the ignition on. Lamp should be on when the points are open, and off when they're closed. At the same time opening the points should trigger a spark at the distributor king lead, so make sure it's held close to earth but not touching.
If you have anything different from the above then you've done something wrong, like the wire that goes from coil negative to the points is shorted to earth, the condenser is short circuit, or you have no feed at coil positive.
This is much easier to do than to explain to someone who doesn't fully understand. Where are you? Surely there's someone close to you that could help you.
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Thanks just tested the coil switched off on 20k ohms with multimeter and it's giving a good reading as are the ht leads I have no 12 v test lamp so I suppose I could use multi meter on coil on volts dc I know of no one who could help me and unfortunately are not in AA etc I will try to see if getting voltage... Just confusing as it was working fine two days ago then after running yesterday just cut out
On me yeah situated at studd hill here bay
Edited by titchdrums on 18/07/2015 at 14:51
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Resistance checks must be done with the component out of circuit. In other words disconnected.
The resistance between the coil terminals + & - (may also be labelled 15 & 1, or SW & CB) should be around 3 ohms for the type used on your vehicle.
The resistance between either coil positive or negative and the HT turret should be around 7.5k ohms.
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Finally after pulling my hair out...she starts...! Yippee!! I checked various wires wanted to know what was going where, I noticed two wires attached to the condenser one was obviously a live feed and the other was a ground wire that split into two on further investigation noticed that this was going to the immobiliser switch which is down in the middle consol, somehow the contacts on the switch we're touching making it dead,so after disconnecting them from the feed the rascal started. I must have unintentionally short circuited the connectors while raising the front seats and putting them back again.......what a prized plonker I am oh well accidents happen.....thanks for all the advice on the bedford rascal much appreciated...I knew I had done points and everything else right just couldn't work it out....next time it happens check all wiring with diagrams etc....cheers
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