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Any - high mileage - dan86

Just wondering what sort of millage you can expect to see out of a modern car that is well maintained?

I've driven lorries that are 5-6 years old that have covered well over 1 million miles and still drive well and I've been a passenger in a A reg Mercedes non turbo diesel that had been round the clock 3 times with the original owner and very well maintained. With modern oils etc and regular maintenance I can't see whow it's not impossible for most modern cars to reach intergalactic starship milage?

Edited by Avant on 18/01/2015 at 12:02

Any - high milage - gordonbennet

I know a chap who runs (mainly Mercedes now) private hire cars, my MB indy services them from new, at sensible intervals including regular transmission fluid changes and yes during those 'sealed for life' joke years too (which he never believed either), he also does full brake strip clean/inspect/lubes on services, who else does that these days.

The sort of servicing lorry workshops used to do at one time when they were expected to last 10/15 years,

These E220 Diesels usually get sold on well over 400k miles during which time very little goes wrong, however they are driven exceptionally well and you can spot them from miles away because the driving stands out like a sore thumb.

We have an odd way of valuing cars in this country, based mainly on age, and most servicing (and any form of TLC) diminishes to minimal at best once the car loses enough value, thats what kills most off, the ethos is very odd to some of us, but we live in times where image is all important to many if not most.

Any - high milage - dan86

I'm of a belief that a car like nay machine needs to be used and will last longer if used instead of sitting around and only doing short trips.

Any - high milage - alastairq

I agree...much will depend on what type of usage the vehicle has had.

I know of folk who, in the USA, have owned VW golfs [Rabbits, I think they're sold as, over there?] adn done more than 250,000 miles without too much hassle......obviousy, lots of very very long journeys?

Any - high milage - focussed

Errr- how about 3 million miles for this american Volvo P1800?

www.popularmechanics.com/cars/news/pictures/millio...1

The B18 motor in these is nothing remarkable - 4 cylinder cast iron block and head-conventional cam in block pushrod/rockers, gear drive to camshaft.

The basic B18 engine design was however influenced by Volvo using it also as a marine motor-a very strong block, crank, rods and bottom end resulted.

Any - high milage - slkfanboy

Why you consider a golf/rabbit made in Maxico is any more likely to last longer than it German enquiv i am not sure. As US models are 2.0L and 2.5L(5 cylinder) engines are less stressed and therefore last longer. As in the US oil changes every 6-7K is common rather than 10K (as in the US golf).

Any - high milage - slkfanboy

(Duplicate post)

Edited by Avant on 20/01/2015 at 16:14

Any - high milage - YG2007

We have an 02 plate focus 1.8TD with 275,000 (serviced every 10K) numerous fleet Renault Traffics regualrly serviced at 250-400K. Regular servicing most cars will get to 200K and beyond. I used to travel to the Netherlands alot and jump into a local taxi companies E220CDI Mercs. THey used to send them to the block at 800-850Km (about 4 years old) and they still drove well just worn seats really.

New cars have their logevity curtailed by manufacturers chasing the fleet market and quoting long service intervals. (Its like someone smoking 30 a day in their 20's will cope better than someone in their 60's still smoking 30 a day). The manufactuers know the cars will last 3 years 50-60K without a lot of bother and aren't bothered if they show their age above 120-130 K as they are out of the dealership network and as likely that owner will not use a main agent for servicing. Manufacturers want to sell new cars and want their cars to last long enough for durability not to affect their depreciation over their first 3 years as this will affect the leasing prices and thus sales but equally well if they are classed as end of life at 9-10 years that suits them fine and keeps the flow of cars coming through.

Environmentally we should hang onto our vehicles a lot longer than we do as the cost of recyling far outweighs the perceived cost savings in fuel between a 15 year old car and a new one of the same type.

A Decent local garage and regualr servcing is the cheapest form of whole life cost ownership for most people

Any - high milage - gordonbennet

@ TG2007, your post was like a breath of fresh spring air, couldn't agree more.

Any - high milage - Jetsam1

Where we live even in Budapest you will see lots of 15 year old and older cars still going strong. The MOT equivalent is every 2 years which helps and there has never been a scrappage scheme.

You still see Trabants/Wartburgs as well as Ladas and old Skodas in everyday use. Our van is a '96 VW Transporter and still works fine (though could do with a good clean and a replacement gearstick gate!!).

Any - high milage - Alby Back
A guy I know has only relatively recently bought his third car in nigh on 40 years of driving. His first car bought shortly after passing his test in 1976ish was a Ford Escort estate which served him well until the late 1990s when he bought Renault Somethingorother estate which he replaced with a Kia Ceed estate about 18 months ago.

He's not a huge car buff and really doesn't care much about what they are or look like or "say" but is sympathetic to their basic needs and their maintainance. He likes estates because he's a signwriter and uses them as vans when he's working and as cars when he isn't.

Nice chap. Seems to live more or less exclusively on tomato soup by all accounts. Not that it matters, but I expect its to do with getting cold while working outside.
Any - high milage - mss1tw

Did he scrap them? The Escort must have been getting on for classic status!

Any - high milage - Alby Back
Traded them in as far as I know. He'd not see it as a classic, just old.

;-)
Any - high milage - brum

Modern cars are much more complex and mechanics sometimes are not able to diagnose even simple faults and often leave customers with an eyewateringly expensive bill and an unfixed car.

Btw the amercan volvo engine everyone loves to quote has been rebuilt twice and has an extremely engine friendly existence. I bet in reality it is serviced/rebuilt very often especially now its a media star. Would you consider rebuilding an engine nowadays? Even if you could get the bits....

Also the nearest galaxy, Andromeda is 2.5 billion light years away, doubtful any car is gonna get a tiny fraction of that distance.

Most people change cars like they change their clothing, k******, house decor. Its down to fashion, not because its worn out or broken beyond repair. Whens the last time any of us darned a sock, or even sewed some torn clothing?

Any - high milage - focussed

If I had a Volvo P1800 I would certainly rebuild the motor.

If I had a modern electronic shopping box probably not.

Any - high milage - gordonbennet
Would you consider rebuilding an engine nowadays? Even if you could get the bits....
Whens the last time any of us darned a sock, or even sewed some torn clothing?

Yet again, fourth form style a hand is raised to both questions, me sir for the engine or other part rebuilds (though i tend to pay people to do such things now as i'm not as agile nimble or bonkers as i once was), and my good lady wife who is a dab hand on her 30 year old sewing machine.

We haven't all joined the throwaway society, nor do we subscribe to the notion that latest design is necessarily better or desirable (that applies to vehicles and clothes), some of us have a desire not to be fashionable, some of us like being not part of the Borg and doing our own small part to kick the system, plus it confuses the clones and those who might seek to put one in a pigeon hole, which is always a bonus.

Edited by gordonbennet on 20/01/2015 at 20:58

Any - high mileage - Avant

If I remember right, GB, you have a 1990s Mercedes coupe which is a lovely car and worth the effort you put into keeping it in good condition. Most people might not feel the same about, say, a Vauxhall of similar vintage unless there were personal reasons (e.g. had it from new or it belonged to a deceased relative).

I wonder if in time to come the 1990s will be a sort of 'sweet spot' for future classic cars - a time when components were much more reliable than they were a generation back, but before too many electronics and 3-letter acronyms became common.

Any - high mileage - gordonbennet

If I remember right, GB, you have a 1990s Mercedes coupe which is a lovely car and worth the effort you put into keeping it in good condition. Most people might not feel the same about, say, a Vauxhall of similar vintage unless there were personal reasons (e.g. had it from new or it belonged to a deceased relative).

I wonder if in time to come the 1990s will be a sort of 'sweet spot' for future classic cars - a time when components were much more reliable than they were a generation back, but before too many electronics and 3-letter acronyms became common.

You're about right Avant, my choice of car is either 80's or 90's design, even if built in the early noughties....and that applies to lorries too.

A sweet period when safety performance handling economy rust resistance and driving pleasure all came together more or less, built into vehicles that can usually be diagnosed and fixed by a competent garage without taking out another mortgage, i'm not convinced by and quite repelled by much of the later designs.

Any - high milage - Andrew-T

Most people change cars like they change their clothing, k1tchen, house decor. It's down to fashion, not because its worn out or broken beyond repair. When's the last time any of us darned a sock, or even sewed some torn clothing?

For me, I've never darned anything or sewn torn clothing. SWMBO has though, and has replaced broken zips from time to time ....

I just have to keep the car(s) running and do other DiY jobs - mended the cracked sewing-machine lid only on Monday, so the machine is still there, even if it isn't used much.

Any - high mileage - Sulphur Man

Car longevity and UK driving have become increasingly incompatible.

For a start, we love salting our roads - more than ever. Those same roads are becoming increasingly pot-holed and broken. Add in the profusion of sleeping policeman over the last two decades. See that, and then raise the stakes with emissions-reducing 'technology' like stop/start, cylinder deactivation.

Finally, add in the one killer aspect of all modern cars, they're simply not designed to last more than a decade. It would be business suicide for any manufacturer to make an impregnable car, as their sales would obviously dry up. M-B realised this with the W124 * W201, and the accountants got their way after that with the deeply flawed W210.

I genuinely believe it's entirely possible to make a practical car that could run for 50 years. It might not be sporty, or eco-friendly (whatever that means) but it can definitely be engineered and sold at a realistic price. Sadly, it never will.

Edited by Sulphur Man on 21/01/2015 at 14:59

Any - high mileage - Trilogy

I do believe I read in EVO magazine not so long back that cars are now designed to last 300,000 miles. For many, the desire to update to a newer model with all the gizmos, a few mpg saved and cheaper or zero road tax is just too tempting. Depreciation is irrelevant, if they lease while others just seem to stomach the loss. A client of mine now no longer buys new. It irks him the £££ he has lost by buying new. Still, each to his or her own.

TBH, I don't see many rusty 10 year old car nowadays. I thought all the other bits fail before rust gets them. Just my thoughts.

Any - high mileage - gordonbennet

TBH, I don't see many rusty 10 year old car nowadays. I thought all the other bits fail before rust gets them. Just my thoughts.

Have a poke nose underneath, suspensions and subframes, rust is not a thing of the past at all.

Fortunately as you say most modern cars will suffer problems far too expensive to be worth most owners saving them before they are rusted too badly.

Any - high mileage - Trilogy

TBH, I don't see many rusty 10 year old car nowadays. I thought all the other bits fail before rust gets them. Just my thoughts.

Have a poke nose underneath, suspensions and subframes, rust is not a thing of the past at all.

Fortunately as you say most modern cars will suffer problems far too expensive to be worth most owners saving them before they are rusted too badly.

Good point, gb. BTW, as you already know, ours are about the same age as yours, so I don't easily have access to a 10 year old car.

Any - high mileage - gordonbennet

The Outback is twelve years old, straight through the MOT today no problems, interesting advisory though, apparently there is a heavy coating of underseal (Bilt Hamber not just any underseal :-) underneath making it quite difficult to examine the frame...tee hee.

The Scooby itself isn't rusty, but the subframes (rear especially) were showing heavy rust and i suspect untreated could easily perforate at about 15 years or sooner in very salty areas, i really went to town on those last spring, hopefull stopped the tin worm in its tracks.

Off to look at an 11 year old Landcruiser Amazon tomorrow with a view to buying it, no doubt the dealer will be as surprised as they usually are when i disappear underneath complete with serious torch and gloves, i shall be most interested to see what the salt has done to the chassis suspension etc of that, will report back on my findings, its high mileage but one owner and supposedly full history so we'll see.

Ideally i'd like to personal import a 70 series LC made in the mid noughties or one of the current last batch ever, if i had Avant's money then this one with my name on would be on the ship already www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan%20car/toyota/l.../ , i'd prefer a direct from Japan used import anyway purely for the lack of rust to start with.

Any - high mileage - Trilogy

This year I will waxoyl/Bilt Hamber the W124. Hopefully it won't have suffered much since I bought it. In those three years it hasn't been used on salted roads. Underneath it looks good - don't know about where I can see. I've walked round all of the underneath a couple of times. That is one of the beauties of going to a Merc specialist. First time I took it to him he spent half an hour at closing time showing me everything underneath. Doubt many main dealers would do that.

Do you find BH better than waxoyl?

BTW, salt isn't used in NZ either. Lots of 20 or so year old cars still on the road with very little or no visible rust. Last year I spotted a Lancia Prisma driving about. Haven't seen one here for years.

Good luck with LC!

Any - high mileage - gordonbennet

Thanks Trilogy.

Oh yes, i used to be a waxoyl girl but not any more, my heart is now given to BH..:-)

Seriously, waxoyling has to be the filthiest job you can take on, best thing i find it to tip the first batch straight over your head then when the subsequent batches end up there anyway you won't be so annoyed.

Obviously you'll do the job in warmish weather, but BH comes in huge aerosols, 2 types, cavity and underbody, with really long probes for the cavity wax you can get right into the nooks and crannies like the pros do, well nearly as well, no blockages at all.

It goes on great and sticks like the proverbial, it smells quite reasonable and that smell will be gone in a couple of days not the 2 months that waxoyl stinks for.

Those probes are brilliant for getting inside to coat the inner surfaces of the rear subframe mounts, these need treating well inside and out, very difficult repair if they rot out.

The other main spot is the front wings above the front bumper just ahead of the wheels (do outer and inner wings), plus do check behind the clip on plastic panels on the doors/wings, they can vibrate and wear through the paint over time, and check the jacking points even removing the jacking point bungs will give you an idea whats what have a poke about with a screwdriver (no sills as such but the integral chassis is very strong and the jacking points are part of it), and check the brake pipe that goes over the rear subframe, it corrodes under the securing clips, rest of rust points should show themselves once you get the wheels off.

The other problem point are those rubber bungs that fit all round the rear wheel arch, water gets under the existing underseal and does its damage rotting around the holes, you can get to the insides of all these points with the probes.

Without salt a 124 should last a lifetime with care, have been very tempted by those later than usual facelift E500's coming out of Japan.

BH is more expensive that waxoyl, but IMHO it works out about the same cost to treat the car well, due to far less waste and more accurate, and dare i say its actually pleasurable to use.

Cheers for the good luck.

Edited by gordonbennet on 21/01/2015 at 20:18

Any - high mileage - Trilogy

gb, thanks for the detailed advice. How much of each do feel I will need? A friend will help me. He has a pit in his garage so that should make the task easier.

Any - high mileage - gordonbennet

I did a very thorough job on the Scooby, IIRC the aerosols are 750ml jobbies, but would have to confirm when daylight, think i used about 6 aerosols of cavity wax and maybe 8 of the underbody, think it was around £150 in materials and i do have maybe one or two of each left.

I used a lot on the subframes, and there's far more subframe on a Legacy than a 124 coupe.

Trouble with me is i'm a wholesale type buyer, so if a 20 pack works out much better value even if i only need 10 i'll buy the 20 and use the rest on annual reapplications, my garage is a treasure trove, but when i kick the bucket my lad may not necessarily agree..:-)

Its cheaper to buy in 5 litre packs if you have a compressor and spraying kit, but the aerosols are so convenient as to be owrth the extra.

Funy isn't it, by now on another forum people who have never seen the underside of a car would be posting disparaging remarks about the value or point of doing any of this, nine time out of ten being company and regular new car buyers missing the point completely.

ps...should have added in the previous post, make sure you keep that rear crossover brake pipe treated, its hells own job to replace with the subframe in situ and you really don't want to be dropping that.

Edited by gordonbennet on 21/01/2015 at 20:55

Any - high mileage - Trilogy

gb, thanks for the reply and information. I will try to remember to let you know how we get on.

Thought this would interest you, salt free. www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mercedesbenz/au...m

Any - high mileage - gordonbennet

Lovely car that, understated blue with unusual dark blue leather, nice change from the usual black grey or mushroom (mine) leather.

Yes, please do start one or resurrect this thread if you can find it when you do the job, would like to know how you get on.

hmm tomorrow i'll know if i'm going to be doing the same to an Amazon come June time... but first job LPG conversion..:-)

Edited by gordonbennet on 21/01/2015 at 21:35

Any - high mileage - gordonbennet

Well, checked out the Landcruiser, battery completely flat but first touch of the jump pack and she's away, charged enough to restart in less than 10 mins.

Suspension goes up and down, diff locks work, rest of electrics seem fine, oil level OK though a bit dark for my liking for a petrol engine, auto box oil a nice clear red.

However, NSF top half wing different colour to rest of car (looked like rattle can finish), dent to NSR door, 1 good tyre, 1 not so good tyre, 2 only legal, spare flat, chassis as surface rusted as expected not too bad at all, however when i shut the door (gently Japanese vehicles do not need to be slammed shut) the complete door mirror fell off where it had been siliconed to the hinge and hung down the door by its wires.

Brakes as rusty as an old horseshoe, discs seemed ok under the rust but it probably hasn't moved for over a month, wheels inner spokes badly pitted, nasty bubbling patch under top half of rear split tailgate, will need plating.

No fuel in it and TBH by now i was half way out the door, so handed the keys back, he's still on the phone as disinterested as us, we clear off.

One good thing about the trip, topped the Legacy up with gas round the corner from there at less than 50p per litre, result.

Edited by gordonbennet on 22/01/2015 at 14:22

Any - high mileage - Andrew-T

The Scooby itself isn't rusty, but the subframes (rear especially) were showing heavy rust and i suspect untreated could easily perforate at about 15 years or sooner in very salty areas, i really went to town on those last spring, hopefull stopped the tin worm in its tracks.

I'm sure you can retard the tinworm, GB, but I've never heard of anything which can stop it altogether once it has started, as moisture still penetrates oily stuff over the years.

I seem to remember a story in the distant past - probably the 60s or 70s - about an amazing discovery that technetium-based stuff worked as a rust killer. Apart from the fact that it is very scarce and radioactive, was there any truth in that?