Car longevity and UK driving have become increasingly incompatible.
For a start, we love salting our roads - more than ever. Those same roads are becoming increasingly pot-holed and broken. Add in the profusion of sleeping policeman over the last two decades. See that, and then raise the stakes with emissions-reducing 'technology' like stop/start, cylinder deactivation.
Finally, add in the one killer aspect of all modern cars, they're simply not designed to last more than a decade. It would be business suicide for any manufacturer to make an impregnable car, as their sales would obviously dry up. M-B realised this with the W124 * W201, and the accountants got their way after that with the deeply flawed W210.
I genuinely believe it's entirely possible to make a practical car that could run for 50 years. It might not be sporty, or eco-friendly (whatever that means) but it can definitely be engineered and sold at a realistic price. Sadly, it never will.
Edited by Sulphur Man on 21/01/2015 at 14:59
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I do believe I read in EVO magazine not so long back that cars are now designed to last 300,000 miles. For many, the desire to update to a newer model with all the gizmos, a few mpg saved and cheaper or zero road tax is just too tempting. Depreciation is irrelevant, if they lease while others just seem to stomach the loss. A client of mine now no longer buys new. It irks him the £££ he has lost by buying new. Still, each to his or her own.
TBH, I don't see many rusty 10 year old car nowadays. I thought all the other bits fail before rust gets them. Just my thoughts.
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TBH, I don't see many rusty 10 year old car nowadays. I thought all the other bits fail before rust gets them. Just my thoughts.
Have a poke nose underneath, suspensions and subframes, rust is not a thing of the past at all.
Fortunately as you say most modern cars will suffer problems far too expensive to be worth most owners saving them before they are rusted too badly.
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TBH, I don't see many rusty 10 year old car nowadays. I thought all the other bits fail before rust gets them. Just my thoughts.
Have a poke nose underneath, suspensions and subframes, rust is not a thing of the past at all.
Fortunately as you say most modern cars will suffer problems far too expensive to be worth most owners saving them before they are rusted too badly.
Good point, gb. BTW, as you already know, ours are about the same age as yours, so I don't easily have access to a 10 year old car.
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The Outback is twelve years old, straight through the MOT today no problems, interesting advisory though, apparently there is a heavy coating of underseal (Bilt Hamber not just any underseal :-) underneath making it quite difficult to examine the frame...tee hee.
The Scooby itself isn't rusty, but the subframes (rear especially) were showing heavy rust and i suspect untreated could easily perforate at about 15 years or sooner in very salty areas, i really went to town on those last spring, hopefull stopped the tin worm in its tracks.
Off to look at an 11 year old Landcruiser Amazon tomorrow with a view to buying it, no doubt the dealer will be as surprised as they usually are when i disappear underneath complete with serious torch and gloves, i shall be most interested to see what the salt has done to the chassis suspension etc of that, will report back on my findings, its high mileage but one owner and supposedly full history so we'll see.
Ideally i'd like to personal import a 70 series LC made in the mid noughties or one of the current last batch ever, if i had Avant's money then this one with my name on would be on the ship already www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan%20car/toyota/l.../ , i'd prefer a direct from Japan used import anyway purely for the lack of rust to start with.
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This year I will waxoyl/Bilt Hamber the W124. Hopefully it won't have suffered much since I bought it. In those three years it hasn't been used on salted roads. Underneath it looks good - don't know about where I can see. I've walked round all of the underneath a couple of times. That is one of the beauties of going to a Merc specialist. First time I took it to him he spent half an hour at closing time showing me everything underneath. Doubt many main dealers would do that.
Do you find BH better than waxoyl?
BTW, salt isn't used in NZ either. Lots of 20 or so year old cars still on the road with very little or no visible rust. Last year I spotted a Lancia Prisma driving about. Haven't seen one here for years.
Good luck with LC!
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Thanks Trilogy.
Oh yes, i used to be a waxoyl girl but not any more, my heart is now given to BH..:-)
Seriously, waxoyling has to be the filthiest job you can take on, best thing i find it to tip the first batch straight over your head then when the subsequent batches end up there anyway you won't be so annoyed.
Obviously you'll do the job in warmish weather, but BH comes in huge aerosols, 2 types, cavity and underbody, with really long probes for the cavity wax you can get right into the nooks and crannies like the pros do, well nearly as well, no blockages at all.
It goes on great and sticks like the proverbial, it smells quite reasonable and that smell will be gone in a couple of days not the 2 months that waxoyl stinks for.
Those probes are brilliant for getting inside to coat the inner surfaces of the rear subframe mounts, these need treating well inside and out, very difficult repair if they rot out.
The other main spot is the front wings above the front bumper just ahead of the wheels (do outer and inner wings), plus do check behind the clip on plastic panels on the doors/wings, they can vibrate and wear through the paint over time, and check the jacking points even removing the jacking point bungs will give you an idea whats what have a poke about with a screwdriver (no sills as such but the integral chassis is very strong and the jacking points are part of it), and check the brake pipe that goes over the rear subframe, it corrodes under the securing clips, rest of rust points should show themselves once you get the wheels off.
The other problem point are those rubber bungs that fit all round the rear wheel arch, water gets under the existing underseal and does its damage rotting around the holes, you can get to the insides of all these points with the probes.
Without salt a 124 should last a lifetime with care, have been very tempted by those later than usual facelift E500's coming out of Japan.
BH is more expensive that waxoyl, but IMHO it works out about the same cost to treat the car well, due to far less waste and more accurate, and dare i say its actually pleasurable to use.
Cheers for the good luck.
Edited by gordonbennet on 21/01/2015 at 20:18
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gb, thanks for the detailed advice. How much of each do feel I will need? A friend will help me. He has a pit in his garage so that should make the task easier.
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I did a very thorough job on the Scooby, IIRC the aerosols are 750ml jobbies, but would have to confirm when daylight, think i used about 6 aerosols of cavity wax and maybe 8 of the underbody, think it was around £150 in materials and i do have maybe one or two of each left.
I used a lot on the subframes, and there's far more subframe on a Legacy than a 124 coupe.
Trouble with me is i'm a wholesale type buyer, so if a 20 pack works out much better value even if i only need 10 i'll buy the 20 and use the rest on annual reapplications, my garage is a treasure trove, but when i kick the bucket my lad may not necessarily agree..:-)
Its cheaper to buy in 5 litre packs if you have a compressor and spraying kit, but the aerosols are so convenient as to be owrth the extra.
Funy isn't it, by now on another forum people who have never seen the underside of a car would be posting disparaging remarks about the value or point of doing any of this, nine time out of ten being company and regular new car buyers missing the point completely.
ps...should have added in the previous post, make sure you keep that rear crossover brake pipe treated, its hells own job to replace with the subframe in situ and you really don't want to be dropping that.
Edited by gordonbennet on 21/01/2015 at 20:55
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gb, thanks for the reply and information. I will try to remember to let you know how we get on.
Thought this would interest you, salt free. www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mercedesbenz/au...m
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Lovely car that, understated blue with unusual dark blue leather, nice change from the usual black grey or mushroom (mine) leather.
Yes, please do start one or resurrect this thread if you can find it when you do the job, would like to know how you get on.
hmm tomorrow i'll know if i'm going to be doing the same to an Amazon come June time... but first job LPG conversion..:-)
Edited by gordonbennet on 21/01/2015 at 21:35
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Well, checked out the Landcruiser, battery completely flat but first touch of the jump pack and she's away, charged enough to restart in less than 10 mins.
Suspension goes up and down, diff locks work, rest of electrics seem fine, oil level OK though a bit dark for my liking for a petrol engine, auto box oil a nice clear red.
However, NSF top half wing different colour to rest of car (looked like rattle can finish), dent to NSR door, 1 good tyre, 1 not so good tyre, 2 only legal, spare flat, chassis as surface rusted as expected not too bad at all, however when i shut the door (gently Japanese vehicles do not need to be slammed shut) the complete door mirror fell off where it had been siliconed to the hinge and hung down the door by its wires.
Brakes as rusty as an old horseshoe, discs seemed ok under the rust but it probably hasn't moved for over a month, wheels inner spokes badly pitted, nasty bubbling patch under top half of rear split tailgate, will need plating.
No fuel in it and TBH by now i was half way out the door, so handed the keys back, he's still on the phone as disinterested as us, we clear off.
One good thing about the trip, topped the Legacy up with gas round the corner from there at less than 50p per litre, result.
Edited by gordonbennet on 22/01/2015 at 14:22
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The Scooby itself isn't rusty, but the subframes (rear especially) were showing heavy rust and i suspect untreated could easily perforate at about 15 years or sooner in very salty areas, i really went to town on those last spring, hopefull stopped the tin worm in its tracks.
I'm sure you can retard the tinworm, GB, but I've never heard of anything which can stop it altogether once it has started, as moisture still penetrates oily stuff over the years.
I seem to remember a story in the distant past - probably the 60s or 70s - about an amazing discovery that technetium-based stuff worked as a rust killer. Apart from the fact that it is very scarce and radioactive, was there any truth in that?
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