Reliable - Replacement car - adrian muscat
I bought a Honda civic 2010 plate last year and it’s just got a new MOT. However they have flagged up the dreaded rear subframe corrosion problem and I am in two minds about what to do.

I was hoping it would last me a few years and I really like the car.

I’m not sure whether I keep it or try and find something else.

My main criteria is reliability and similar space to the civic.
I’d rather a simple petrol and not a diesel.

I don’t want to spend the earth


Or do I try and scrub back the sub frame and treat it?

Or do I just keep it till it dies?

I have seen this www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202412247517288?s...a

Any suggestions / advice welcome

Edited by adrian muscat on 06/03/2025 at 19:01

Reliable - Replacement car - Falkirk Bairn

Rear subframe corrosion - get a 2nd opinion /estimate for the cost of necessary work.

The Toyota MoT history is good - highlights some "work needed" corrosion/wear but nothing on Body Condition. 15+ years old it looks, on paper, worth a look.

MoT dates are all March for most of the history

Dec 2024 test was 3 months early!

Change of ownership? - did the owner until Dec 2024 know something? People do not often swap a car after 2 to 3 months ...........

Reliable - Replacement car - Xileno

If it's got an advisory on the MOT record then no-one is going to give much for it. I would keep it and either run it until it fails (you might get another two MOTs out of it) or treat the subframe best you can (or pay someone to do it)

Reliable - Replacement car - gordonbennet

If all thats wrong with the Honda is rear subframe corrosion then getting it treated is probably the best solution, not just economically but devil you know and all that.

The subframe might be treatable for the forseable, if the rest of the car is still running well when the suibframe is declared fubar it might be worth sourcing a replacement subframe and getting an independent workshop to fit.

If it were mine i'd get underneath sc***e sand and wire brush off as much rust as possible, treat with a rust converter and then spray the whole subframe from several aerosols of chain lube after applying marine grease over the easily accessed sections.

£50 in materials will more than cover the costs here leaving you with spare stuff for the next time.

Reliable - Replacement car - SLO76
A rear subframe for your car is about £150 plus fitting. I’d probably do the rear springs if they’re a bit crusty at the same time. Get a few quotes to replace it and see what you’re talking cost wise. It’s not the end of the world if the car is otherwise good, though it involves a lot of labour to do so it won’t be cheap.

I sold a 2010 Toyota Avensis that had a bit of rust on the rear subframe, I see its latest Mot flags it as an advisory. That doesn’t mean that it won’t carry on for several years before failing though, but I did have it in mind to replace it and the rear springs and shocks and just keep it. Often wish I had. Point is that you’re better fixing a car you know to be good and reliable than spending much more on a car of similar age that could be just as crusty underneath. The last Mot I carried out on my Avensis was advisory free, yet the next one shows several rust advisories. It’s a matter of opinion between testers but I would favour keeping what you have.

The Civic is more modern looking than the Toyota, it’s a bit better on fuel and it drives better in my opinion. I’d spend a bit on a refurb and give it a £50 valet at the local car car wash and you have a minted and solid car ready for several years more use.

Edited by SLO76 on 06/03/2025 at 19:58

Reliable - Replacement car - pd

I think I'd chuck a bit of Waxoyl on and see how it goes.

As SLO above says a lot of MOT advisories are subjective and if you put it through another MOT it might not even get commented on.

Reliable - Replacement car - Chris M

Our 2010 Panda had advisories for corrosion on the rear subframe, rear coil springs and exhaust in 2017. The advisories have been mentioned at some subsequent MoTs and not at others. That's a further 7 MoTs. It looks scabby, but so what? I've seen plenty of broken coil springs which would look like new if given a wipe over with a damp cloth.

Reliable - Replacement car - John F
Or do I try and scrub back the sub frame and treat it?

I would.

Or do I just keep it till it dies?

Ditto.

'flagged up' presumably means just an advisory - a lucrative source of often unnecessary replacement work. I doubt if the corrosion is anywhere near the severity of suspecting imminent structural collapse. Some sturdy gloves, a large shortish flat bladed screw driver for chipping and sc***ing, a wire brush and a pot of decent hammerite-ish paint (plus a primer coat of kurust if you are really enthusiastic) should halt the corrosion for a good few years and cost considerably less than £50. Suggest do the brake pipes as well while you're at it; a bit of surface corrosion on these often lures punters into expensive replacement.

Reliable - Replacement car - Warning

I test-drove a 2012 Honda Civic, and I really liked it. I’d stick with that Civic.

I noticed that cars in Scotland tend to have more issues due to winter salting.I don't know if this applies to you.

When you buy a new car, you might be swapping one set of problems for another.

You know your car. You’ll have a sense of how it runs, so stick with it.

Also, when cars get older people spend less money on them. I took opposite approach and got it dealer serviced. The cost of new car is say £10k. So better to spend a few hundred pound on basic maintenance.....

Reliable - Replacement car - Andrew-T

Also, when cars get older people spend less money on them. I took opposite approach and got it dealer serviced. .

I think the advantage of dealer servicing vanishes when the warranty expires. After that there can be benefits in using a trusted indy, who may be conveniently nearer and charge lower labour rates. I have no reason to believe that servicing standards are necessarily higher at a dealership, tho I suppose they are more likely to have necessary parts on the shelf.

Reliable - Replacement car - Adampr

Also, when cars get older people spend less money on them. I took opposite approach and got it dealer serviced. .

I think the advantage of dealer servicing vanishes when the warranty expires. After that there can be benefits in using a trusted indy, who may be conveniently nearer and charge lower labour rates. I have no reason to believe that servicing standards are necessarily higher at a dealership, tho I suppose they are more likely to have necessary parts on the shelf.

We often see this advice to use a trusted indy, but they are very few and far between. People still head to main dealers because, whilst they will certainly charge you a lot and occasionally work in a way that's convenient for them and not cheap for you, they are unlikely to actually con you.

You will recall there was a Government plan to establish a 'good garage scheme' some years ago but the name was immediately used by a company that sold engine flushes to identify their retailers and became a little misleading. Perhaps time that idea was revived - I don't know how up to date the list on this site is.

Reliable - Replacement car - Big John

We often see this advice to use a trusted indy, but they are very few and far between. People still head to main dealers because, whilst they will certainly charge you a lot and occasionally work in a way that's convenient for them and not cheap for you, they are unlikely to actually con you.

I must be lucky. I have been using a trusty Indy for decades and have a choice of a few other known good places. I use main dealers whilst any car is under warranty and possibly a couple of years afterwards. There are still a few jobs I still would aim for the main dealer even after the car is getting on a bit - especially if they have menu/reduced for older car pricing.

Reliable - Replacement car - gordonbennet

I must be lucky. I have been using a trusty Indy for decades and have a choice of a few other known good places. I use main dealers whilst any car is under warranty and possibly a couple of years afterwards. There are still a few jobs I still would aim for the main dealer even after the car is getting on a bit - especially if they have menu/reduced for older car pricing.

Quite, main dealer is always worth asking, my previous Landcruiser had the superb 3.4 V6 petrol engine, replacement of the cambelt was somewhat daunting (unlike the simple1 hour DIY job of the 3 litre Diesels) so i decided to get it replaced by a garage.

A couple of silly indy quotes later i gave the Toyota dealer a call who quoted near enough half what the indies wanted, circa £290 if my memory serves.

As for indies, the one we'd been using for years failed the Forester on a leaking rear shock, fair enough no quibbles there i hadn't spotted it misting, but refused to do the job stating specialist car??, i fitted new springs and shocks myself the job being typically Japanese design simple, haven't been back since and won't be doing so again.