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We had a smart forfour with the same 0.9t engine as the Dacia. Bought at a year old with 9,000 miles. It had more than enough power, but it did deliver it in 'lumps' rather than in a smooth way, The turbo lasted another 9 months and about 3,000 miles before it failed and was replaced under warranty.
If you are happy with the performance of a non turbo version you will be buying a vehicle with one less expensive component to potentially fail.
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We had a smart forfour with the same 0.9t engine as the Dacia. Bought at a year old with 9,000 miles. It had more than enough power, but it did deliver it in 'lumps' rather than in a smooth way, The turbo lasted another 9 months and about 3,000 miles before it failed and was replaced under warranty.
I've no doubt they are closely related, but it isn't the same engine.
The engine in the Forfour is 898cc, the one in the Duster is 999cc. The latter also has an extra 25nm of torque but not sure if it has a more linear power delivery.
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Excellent replies everyone - thank you very much indeed.
Seems the 1.0 basic model will be good for our needs then, which is music to my ears.
Cheers
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On other thing... I'm curious as to how the turbo works. I'm sure I read that it kicks in at around 2,000 to 2,500 revs but that seems rather low. Does that sound right to you guys? In the back of my mind I'm thinking that if I drive slowly on the very short journeys then perhaps the turbo wouldn't even kick in? Or am I over simplifying how it all works? Or missing the point entirely?
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On other thing... I'm curious as to how the turbo works. I'm sure I read that it kicks in at around 2,000 to 2,500 revs but that seems rather low. Does that sound right to you guys? In the back of my mind I'm thinking that if I drive slowly on the very short journeys then perhaps the turbo wouldn't even kick in? Or am I over simplifying how it all works? Or missing the point entirely?
The turbo will spin as long as exhaust gas is flowing, i.e. as long as the engine is running.
The turbine driven by exhaust gas flow has a compressor wheel on the other end of the shaft it is mounted on.
The compressor will not develop much pressure into the inlet manifold until the turbo rotation speed is high enough, which is the point at which the turbo noticeably increases torque and power, this is when it "kicks in".
Turbos are 'matched' to the engine by the manufacturer, so may be intended to 'kick in' at 2000 engine RPM .
Small turbos can run at about 130,000 RPM at full engine power, wastegate valves divert exhaust to avoid turbo overspeed.
YouTube no doubt has animations showing all this.
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On other thing... I'm curious as to how the turbo works. I'm sure I read that it kicks in at around 2,000 to 2,500 revs but that seems rather low.
It very much depends on the engine.
Peak torque on our Hyundai Bayon's 1.0 turbo starts at 1500rpm (and holds that up to 4k rpm), so fair to assume the turbo starts blowing at least a few hundred rpm earlier.
Peak torque on the Duster's 1.0 turbo starts at 2200, though that doesn't necessarily mean the turbo starts blowing 700rpm later, it could just be that the turbo builds up slower.
In the back of my mind I'm thinking that if I drive slowly on the very short journeys then perhaps the turbo wouldn't even kick in?
On such a small engine, I think it would be almost impossible to avoid "using" the turbo, and frankly I'm baffled as to why you'd want to?. What would be the point in buying a turbo car only to actively avoid using the turbo?
If you are that wary of turbo's, it would probably be better to buy something with a n/a engine!
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As above the turbocharger will be turning all the time the engine is running, the point when it stops being an impediment and becomes an asset is what people refer to as the turbo kicking in.
I'd be surprised if the turbo on this car wasn't giving some benefits long before 2000rpm, i'd expect it to be providing considerable intake flow before 1500rpm is reached.
Good advice above about turbo care, also worth clicking on the sticky at the top of the technical forum www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/114789/any---turbo...r
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The electronics controlling the turbo waste-gate are often intended to give minimal boost at low rpm in the interests of driveability and idling fuel consumption/emissions - then closing the waste-gate to increase power/torque to give the effect of "kicking in".
Modern turbo have "variable geometry" which are moveable vanes which improve the turbo performance at different parts of the rpm/load spectrum - it's NECESSARY to exercise these vanes from time to time by giving the car an "italian tune-up" otherwise they get jammed solid from carbon deposits.
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Thank you for the new replies, and also for putting up with my ignorance!
In all honesty, I think I've just mis-imagined what a turbo is. In my head I thought the car would have two modes - normal, and then once it surpasses a certain level (or needs a certain amount of "boost") the turbo kicks in. Probably watched too much Knight Rider as a kid :) I then put that knowledge with the "when the turbo is in use it is worse for the car on short runs" idea, and came to the previous ill informed idea to drive without the "turbo boost" coming on.
In other words I don't know much about it all and should probably be ignored! That being said, I know more about it all now thanks to you guys :)
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I do have another question, why a Duster specifically?
You talk about steep Welsh mountain roads so I was initially thinking 4wd, but then the 1.0 turbo isn't available with 4wd.
You are obviously wary of turbo's, and have heard bad things about the 1.6 (I thought they were OK?). And while the diesel may be better news for short journeys than some, it would still be better to avoid. So it almost reads like you are trying to talk yourself out of the Duster!
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I do have another question, why a Duster specifically?
You talk about steep Welsh mountain roads so I was initially thinking 4wd, but then the 1.0 turbo isn't available with 4wd.
You are obviously wary of turbo's, and have heard bad things about the 1.6 (I thought they were OK?). And while the diesel may be better news for short journeys than some, it would still be better to avoid. So it almost reads like you are trying to talk yourself out of the Duster!
That's why I mentioned a set of decent all season tyres bbd, incidentally I know of 3 people with the 1.5 dci engine, one, a Clio has done starship mileage with no issues.
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Thank you both.
The main reasons I've been thinking Duster....
- They are cheap and affordable
- They have steel wheels with thick side wall tyres. Suspension parts seem to forever need replacing on our cars, so we're hoping this will help.
- They have good ground clearance at 210mm
- They don't have lots of gadgetry and features, which I would find unnecessary
I think 4x4 would be overkill tbh, and agree that 2x4 with all seasons will.
I also think it was more a case of me misunderstanding what turbos are and how they operate, along with whether they are bad news for frequent short journeys. Seemed I'd got most of that wrong, so unless I'm missing something I've no longer any problem with turbos.
Cheers
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“ Suspension parts seem to forever need replacing on our cars, so we're hoping this will help.”
Renault’s are known to be particularly weak when it comes to suspension bushes/drop links etc. Jump in any example with 50/60k up and you’ll usually find a wee knock or rattle coming from underneath, ditto wheel bearings which they seem to eat. The 1.2 TCe motor is well known for engine failures also so I’d avoid that. I haven’t heard any issues relating to the later 1.0 but it is too young to know yet and few have big miles up. The normally aspirated 1.6 petrol is ok if looked after, but they’re thirstier than the newer engines. The 1.5 diesel is actually pretty robust if looked after, but it’s no use for anyone doing mostly short runs as it is equipped with a diesel particulate filter.
It’s not what I’d buy with durability in mind, but I do get the appeal. I like the simplicity of the design and the supple suspension. Buying a newish one in favour of an older mainstream SUV does make some sense, but don’t expect the regular need to replace suspension components to ease off much with one of these, especially if you’re running on rough roads. SUV’s in general are heavier and often harder in suspension despite the more rugged looks.
In similar circumstances I’d probably run an older Mk IV Honda CRV 2.0 2wd. These use a chain driven motor that’s known to be bombproof, they’re huge inside and you’ll see loads of elderly examples still ferrying families around. It’s a much more robust and solidly built car than the Dacia.
Edited by SLO76 on 06/03/2025 at 20:14
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Thanks for that SLO76, that's very helpful.
Shame to hear that about Renaults :( When it comes to suspension parts, will having 16" steel wheels help in any way, say, compared to the 17" alloys on the more expensive top end-ish Dusters?
For reference, our current car is a 2007 Corsa 1.4 with alloy wheels and reasonably slim size walls (not sure of tyre size and car not here at the moment).
Thanks for the Honda suggestion. Is that a petrol or diesel? And what kind of age are we talking?
Thanks again
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Thanks for that SLO76, that's very helpful.
Shame to hear that about Renaults :( When it comes to suspension parts, will having 16" steel wheels help in any way, say, compared to the 17" alloys on the more expensive top end-ish Dusters?
For reference, our current car is a 2007 Corsa 1.4 with alloy wheels and reasonably slim size walls (not sure of tyre size and car not here at the moment).
Thanks for the Honda suggestion. Is that a petrol or diesel? And what kind of age are we talking?
Thanks again
The taller tyres and steel wheels should make for a slightly more forgiving ride, but none of them are exactly firm. I doubt it’ll make any difference durability wise. The Mk IV CRV ran from 2012-2017 I think. It’s the 2.0 petrol that I’d look for in your case, it’s as tough as they come. No turbo, no timing belt, no DPF, nothing complex or likely to go wrong, as long as it gets fresh oil every year or 10k. Clutches can judder a bit when pulling away from cold, but the diesels are worse for this for some reason and it goes away after it warms up anyway so it’s no big deal. Rust underneath is the only real concern, but they’re no worse than any other mainstream manufacturer there. Get a good one, get it undersealed by someone and keep it for a decade or more. The later 2015 on facelift cars drive and look a bit better. The 2wd is better on fuel and cheaper to buy. Look for a one/two owner car with full history and sensible miles and it’ll outlast a new Dacia easily.
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Corsa = 195/55 R16 tyres.
Our car before that was a Skoda Fabia Estate 2003, which likewise needed frequent replacement suspension parts. That had 185/60 R14 tyres.
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Crossed posts.
Thanks for the info and link. I'll take a look now. Thanks you.
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Just popping back to say thanks again for the help and advice. And for teaching me about turbos! We went with a 1L Duster Essential in the end. It's a shame about the suspension not being as durable, but I guess being a cheaper/newer/less miles car in the first place, that might counter balance more trips to the garage.
I am left a little confused RE suspension. Some time ago when I first started thinking about what car to get for better suspension protection, I read and was told time and again that steel wheels and high tyre side walls are really important. I can find similar views now by googling, and conversely I can find articles/threads saying that low profile tyres are bad for suspension parts. So I assumed that the Duster with its steel 215/65 R16 wheels should hold up to the terrible roads where I live better than my current Corsa's alloy 195/55 R16 wheels. But that's not the case then?
Cheers
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Taller profile tyres certainly aid ride quality, but that has little bearing on suspension durability. It is ultimately down to the quality of the product. Nothing really wrong with the Duster, as I say I do like them. But expect an equivalent aged example to say a Mazda or Honda to need more frequent replacement of suspension components. These are generally cheap however so it’s of little concern and as you say the car is newer for the same money.
Relax and enjoy your new car. Just make sure it gets a service every year or 10,000 miles and it should be a good companion for many years. A wee coat of polish occasionally too, as they do rust more readily than most. Metallic paint helps here though.
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A wee coat of polish occasionally too, as they do rust more readily than most.
I was taught polish is an abrasive and wax is a coating. So perhaps a waxing after polishing would be most effective?
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A wee coat of polish occasionally too, as they do rust more readily than most.
I was taught polish is an abrasive and wax is a coating. So perhaps a waxing after polishing would be most effective?
Quite correct sir! :)
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A question for SLO.please ?
How do I distinguish a 2 wld drive Honda CRV from a 4Wd from the description of the car he highlighted
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A question for SLO.please ?
How do I distinguish a 2 wld drive Honda CRV from a 4Wd from the description of the car he highlighted
Without being sarcastic look underneath:)
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A question for SLO.please ?
How do I distinguish a 2 wld drive Honda CRV from a 4Wd from the description of the car he highlighted
Without being sarcastic look underneath:)
And, as many have found the 4x4 MINUS the prop shaft.
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Ok my original question was how to distinguish between 2wd and 4wd from the dealers description in the advert rather than phoning up or visiting the dealer ?
There was no mention in the advert posted by SLO ?
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A question for SLO.please ?
How do I distinguish a 2 wld drive Honda CRV from a 4Wd from the description of the car he highlighted
On Autotrader it’s in the description, which is automatically filled in when the seller puts the reg no in. Most sellers will advertise the more valuable 4wd clearly. The higher spec cars like the EX are all 4wd, it’s typically the 2.0 SE that’s mostly 2wd. The one I posted was a 2wd thus no mention of 4wd. Here’s a 4wd for example.
www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202502269514289
Edited by SLO76 on 18/03/2025 at 19:35
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