We decided to do a 22-mile run on the motorway at 3,200 revs to try and burn it off.
This really isn't going to work. If you've led a life of eating bad foods and not exercising, do people think a quick 20 minutes of jogging is going to reverse all the damage?
Or - take the tea mug analogy: get a fresh mug and fill with Yorkshire Tea. After a few cups the tea staining will wash away with hot water. Then after a few more it needs soapy water. Then after a few more it will need a sponge. Then a scouring pad. Then it will get to an age and point you can't clean it and you have to replace.
I understand and agree with what you are saying if we'd just left it until now to do the 22-mile drive to burn off carbon, but we've been doing it ever since we had half the engine replaced when the oil pump chain broke just after the 3-year warranty ended. The independent garage that replaced everything advised us to do it in view of us not necessarily driving distances. (Although my husband did do a daily 100-mile round trip in it until the pandemic). We were doing it to try and keep the replaced engine free from carbon from the outset. Obviously, it hasn't worked.
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Have you thought of trading it in for a petrol version using one of the on line sites who collect your car and deliver the new one after clearing the fault codes ? Just a suggestion for discussion by the posters maybe ?
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Have you thought of trading it in for a petrol version using one of the on line sites who collect your car and deliver the new one after clearing the fault codes ? Just a suggestion for discussion by the posters maybe ?
Thats not a bad suggestion.
Erase the fault codes, give the engine a quick DIY oil change if it hasn't had one yet this year to minimise the chances of serious engine damage due to fuel dilution then take it for a drive on the open roads, if it runs ok and the codes don't re-appear, trade the thing in soon as.
It'll cost about £50 tops for new filter and oil and nothing to erase the fault codes via your own reader, 1/2 hour job, a bet worth taking?
Reading up a bit more on these they seem prone to carbon build up in the intake side, probably due to an overkeen EGR allowing all sorts of nasties to go back through the intake, though they're hardlyh alone in that, and that could be where one or more of the codes are originating.
The whole intake incl EGR might need removing for full cleaning, filthy job, i cleaned out the Landcruiser EGR last year, then there's no doubt some jiggery pokery possible to lessen the amount of burned gasses going back through the intake into the engine, which still leaves the DPF apparently clogging up, probably the issues are linked or execaerbating one another...not going to be cheap for a pro to do all that is reqd even if no new parts are required apart from gaskets there's probably 2 days solid work with no guarantee what might be found inside or that the issue won't reappear if there's injector issues also rearing their ugnly heads.
Edited by gordonbennet on 02/07/2024 at 17:23
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Have you thought of trading it in for a petrol version using one of the on line sites who collect your car and deliver the new one after clearing the fault codes ? Just a suggestion for discussion by the posters maybe ?
Thats not a bad suggestion.
Erase the fault codes, give the engine a quick DIY oil change if it hasn't had one yet this year to minimise the chances of serious engine damage due to fuel dilution then take it for a drive on the open roads, if it runs ok and the codes don't re-appear, trade the thing in soon as.
It'll cost about £50 tops for new filter and oil and nothing to erase the fault codes via your own reader, 1/2 hour job, a bet worth taking?
Reading up a bit more on these they seem prone to carbon build up in the intake side, probably due to an overkeen EGR allowing all sorts of nasties to go back through the intake, though they're hardlyh alone in that, and that could be where one or more of the codes are originating.
The whole intake incl EGR might need removing for full cleaning, filthy job, i cleaned out the Landcruiser EGR last year, then there's no doubt some jiggery pokery possible to lessen the amount of burned gasses going back through the intake into the engine, which still leaves the DPF apparently clogging up, probably the issues are linked or execaerbating one another...not going to be cheap for a pro to do all that is reqd even if no new parts are required apart from gaskets there's probably 2 days solid work with no guarantee what might be found inside or that the issue won't reappear if there's injector issues also rearing their ugnly heads.
We had an oil change done at the end of February/start of March and always use Mazda's own oil despite it being expensive (about £80) on the recommendation of the guy who replaced our engine. He said to have an oil change twice a year. We just checked the oil this evening, expecting it to be high considering the problems we are experiencing. Shocked to find hardly any oil in there so have topped it up to the required level. Didn't drive it as worried about going into limp mode but noticed that alternator let out some screeches too when warming up.to check the oil level. Wasn't happening yesterday.
Ran OBDII and same codes again. I don't think its worth throwing good money after bad. I think we need to bite the bullet, sell it for salvage and move on. I hate diesel cars.
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Have you thought of trading it in for a petrol version using one of the on line sites who collect your car and deliver the new one after clearing the fault codes ? Just a suggestion for discussion by the posters maybe ?
Well now I'm in a bigger quandary. I couldn't in all conscience trade it in because I know someone would find themselves in a similar situation a few months down the line. Even if I sold it for parts, I'm not sure how I'd know that someone unscrupulous wouldn't get hold of it and just sell it with a 3-month warranty on it. I've thought about worst case scenario and just obtained an online salvage quote from Motorwise of £706.60. Not much and I'd have to re-register it too as it has personalised plates on it.
I'm even having trouble finding a new car. Why the heck is it so difficult these days? Thinking of a new Mazda 3, want a fairly decent spec as our 6 had the whistles and bells on it and am struggling with that. There's a 3-4 month lead time on those. Aaargh!
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I wouldn’t worry about trading it in at a dealer . An 8 year old one of these is only going to go to auction, so not really your problem.
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I wouldn’t worry about trading it in at a dealer . An 8 year old one of these is only going to go to auction, so not really your problem.
Agreed. Any dealer buying it will account for it being a Mazda 2.2d in their offer, as will any trader buying it auction. It's possible a private buyer will pick it up at auction, but they would be ignoring decades of advice not to buy at auction unless you know what you're doing.
As for what happens to it in three transactions' time, that can't really be your lookout. You're not deceiving anyone.
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I wouldn’t worry about trading it in at a dealer . An 8 year old one of these is only going to go to auction, so not really your problem.
Agreed. Any dealer buying it will account for it being a Mazda 2.2d in their offer, as will any trader buying it auction. It's possible a private buyer will pick it up at auction, but they would be ignoring decades of advice not to buy at auction unless you know what you're doing.
As for what happens to it in three transactions' time, that can't really be your lookout. You're not deceiving anyone.
I couldn't live with myself if a private buyer bought it at auction. I know I wouldn't know about it but karma has a way of biting you on the bum. Do as you would be done by.
Thanks everyone for your help.
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I wouldn’t worry about trading it in at a dealer . An 8 year old one of these is only going to go to auction, so not really your problem.
Agreed. Any dealer buying it will account for it being a Mazda 2.2d in their offer, as will any trader buying it auction. It's possible a private buyer will pick it up at auction, but they would be ignoring decades of advice not to buy at auction unless you know what you're doing.
As for what happens to it in three transactions' time, that can't really be your lookout. You're not deceiving anyone.
I couldn't live with myself if a private buyer bought it at auction. I know I wouldn't know about it but karma has a way of biting you on the bum. Do as you would be done by.
Thanks everyone for your help.
Absolutely, but you are effectively saying you can never sell the car. All cars with this engine have the same issue and it will never be fixed.
I don't think anyone is suggesting you do anything dishonest, just that you sell the vehicle on at market value. If it has a serious issue, warning lights will come on and you can't stop that from happening.
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Absolutely, but you are effectively saying you can never sell the car. All cars with this engine have the same issue and it will never be fixed.
I don't think anyone is suggesting you do anything dishonest, just that you sell the vehicle on at market value. If it has a serious issue, warning lights will come on and you can't stop that from happening.
I think I am saying the car should never be sold. Like I've said, I'm in a quandry. It was a hugely stressful time for us when Mazda wouldn't do anything when the engine failed 2 weeks outside the warranty. It was awful because they knew then about problems. We should have received 2 recall notifications which we knew nothing about. Including one about faulty injectors. I hate thed thoughg of causing someone else such stress.
I'll think about it. Thanks.
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<< I couldn't live with myself if a private buyer bought it at auction. I know I wouldn't know about it but karma has a way of biting you on the bum. Do as you would be done by. >>
I've never tried it myself, but from what I read on here most private buyers will be dissuaded from buying at auction by the scale of the buyer's premium. Those that aren't put off are likely to be well aware of the number of lemons on sale, so will be pretty cautious. I should tell your conscience to take time off - anyone who tangles with the 'trade' soon develops a wary eye.
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I couldn't live with myself if a private buyer bought it at auction. I know I wouldn't know about it but karma has a way of biting you on the bum. Do as you would be done by.
I wouldn't worry - all private buyers know know "buyer beware" at auctions. Plus, they're geared up more for the trade these days than in days of old when all and sundry went down for a cheap car. Fees and VAT will put off most punters.
Edited by Gibbo_Wirral on 03/07/2024 at 12:59
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I couldn't live with myself if a private buyer bought it at auction. I know I wouldn't know about it but karma has a way of biting you on the bum. Do as you would be done by.
I wouldn't worry - all private buyers know know "buyer beware" at auctions. Plus, they're geared up more for the trade these days than in days of old when all and sundry went down for a cheap car. Fees and VAT will put off most punters
But who do the trade sell it to once they've bought it?
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But who do the trade sell it to once they've bought it?
If they don't find a buyer the car goes back to auction. If that fails it may be broken for parts and end up in a scra.pyard. If you really want to worry unnecessarily about what might happen, there have always been disreputable back-street places selling dodgy cars without warranties and with alsatians dealing with awkward customers - tho I get a feeling that there aren't as many as there once were.
There is a seamy side to a lot of things I'm afraid.
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I'm even having trouble finding a new car. Why the heck is it so difficult these days? Thinking of a new Mazda 3, want a fairly decent spec as our 6 had the whistles and bells on it and am struggling with that. There's a 3-4 month lead time on those. Aaargh!
Have you got a local Toyota dealer & if so what is their rep. like (they generally tend to be good but there is the odd below par one)? Even a a factory (built in Derbyshire) order Corolla should be ~6 weeks. Of course, we are entering the new no. plate changeover order increase period.
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I had a similar issue with my Mazda 6. For your DPF and throttle problems, it's best to see a diesel specialist. These issues often go deeper than the fault codes show. I got my parts from Srotas and it saved me some money. You can check their site for parts: Good luck!
Edited by leaseman on 03/07/2024 at 10:36
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Someone I know had a similar problem and the new egr was going to cost over £1000 alone and being fitted at the rear of the engine it’s not an easy job to change so a decision was made to move to a Mazda petrol with their reliable auto box . Brillant cars . My daughter has a 2015 Mazda 3 and uses it for work and is highly delighted with it . Just one broken rear spring in all those years of motoring. Mazda petrol cars use simple technology with no turbos to cause problems and chain cams that don’t need changing.
And most of all the majority of their cars for UK supply are built to the highest quality standards in their own factory in Hiroshima Japan .
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Someone I know had a similar problem and the new egr was going to cost over £1000 alone and being fitted at the rear of the engine it’s not an easy job to change so a decision was made to move to a Mazda petrol with their reliable auto box . Brillant cars . My daughter has a 2015 Mazda 3 and uses it for work and is highly delighted with it . Just one broken rear spring in all those years of motoring. Mazda petrol cars use simple technology with no turbos to cause problems and chain cams that don’t need changing.
And most of all the majority of their cars for UK supply are built to the highest quality standards in their own factory in Hiroshima Japan .
We now have a code about the egr. It's as if it is saving them up and then surprising us with a new one.
We used to have a Mazda 6 petrol and it was a brilliant car. Never had anything go wrong with it. I've watched a comprehensive review of the Mazda 3 petrol with someone doing a test drive and it has made us think it is definitely the car to go for. Not having the turbos etc might suit us just fine. Thanks for the info.
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I had a similar issue with my Mazda 6. For your DPF and throttle problems, it's best to see a diesel specialist. These issues often go deeper than the fault codes show. I got my parts from Srotas and it saved me some money. You can check their site for parts: Good luck!
Thanks.
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Of course, we are entering the new no. plate changeover order increase period.
That hadn't occurred to me. I don't usually think about such things as my husband has his own plate.
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Although you are used to a sport . I would suggest you try and find a basic Mazda3 with 165 profile tyres which gives a more comfortable ride. My daughter’s dog travels well in the boot area , just in case you have a dog.
The best cars seem to be found at Main Dealers who also offer the most comprehensive 12 month warranty.
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Notwithstanding the earlier comment that you don't trust Mazda dealers, if you're looking for another Mazda, it might make sense to get a PX valuation from a Mazda dealer. After all they will be best equipped to fix the car and sell it on, and they can do it a lot cheaper for themselves than for you. My experience is that Mazda dealers are very patchy, so maybe try a different one.
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Notwithstanding the earlier comment that you don't trust Mazda dealers, if you're looking for another Mazda, it might make sense to get a PX valuation from a Mazda dealer. After all they will be best equipped to fix the car and sell it on, and they can do it a lot cheaper for themselves than for you. My experience is that Mazda dealers are very patchy, so maybe try a different one.
I have contacted some Mazda dealerships who have asked if I have a car to exchange. I told them I wasn't sure and explained we have a 2016 Mazda 6 with aDPF Malfunction and other codes, stating what the other codes are. They have come back with new car prices and so I assume they wouldn't want it. I might try asking them more directly as I realise I didn't do so and that is probably why they mentioned nothing.
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The best cars seem to be found at Main Dealers who also offer the most comprehensive 12 month warranty.
I need to buy a new car, not a used one as I need the comfort of a 3-year warranty. Thanks for the info about the wheels.
Edited by Juie Baker on 04/07/2024 at 20:40
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There are plenty of other factors but if you buy a seven year old approved used Toyota or Lexus it will have three years left on the warranty. Likewise a four year old Kia, a two year old Hyundai etc.
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