Looking for some advice here. We currently have a 2015 Audi A4 Avant which we love, but we are looking to trade in for a large SUV. My partner and I have both suffered back issues recently and think an SUV would benefit. My instinct was the Audi Q5 but I see that it is very heavy and therefore not very fuel efficient. Tax is also costly. We have 2x200 mile journeys each week and 3-4 times per year we make a near 600 mile round trip to visit my family. So the miles are high therefore mpg and running costs are important to us, as well as comfort. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Do SUVs actually have 'better' suspension that gives a smoother ride, or is it just more robust because the cars are heavier, higher sided higher centre of gavity and thus need a more robust suspension, i.e. the suspension components do not last any longer than a normal car shod on similar wheels and tyres.
I think that too many 'normies' regard SUVs as off roaders with road manners, when in reality most of them aren't and would not do well off road except 4x4 versions shod on proper off road tyres with a decent sidewall height, which very few SUVs are. Most ordinary cars have much better manners on-road than SUVs.
If I were the OP, I'd look for cars that gave all their spacial and driving requirements irrespective of whether its and SUV or 'normal' car (hatch, saloon / fastback or estate), including how it rides over poor surfaces, the seat comfort / driving ergonomics (a thorogh test drive on different types of roads / speeds is warranted) and looking for a car with decent reliability.
If buying new, then diesels are not anywhere near the problem buying second hand might be, given it won't have been driven by someone else with the possibility of the DPF getting clogged up / oil dilution via previous usage predominantly on short journeys from cold with unfinished active DPF regens.
Technically even the Mazda CX-5 2.2 diesel might be in play in that scenario, although there are more reliable diesel units for other makes ot there. Shame, as the CX-5 is otherwise a fine car in most respects.
If the OP is specifically looking for a decent ride - as well as reducing their running costs over the medium to longer term, then they should also look at what wheel and tyre combinations the cars they look at have - small-er (in relation to the 'bling' large diameter alloy wheels and higher profile (which gives a higher sidewall) tyres will give a much better ride quality than larger wheels and lower profile (lower sideall tyres) for the same overall rolling diameter of the tyre.
Advantages
- Tyres and wheels less susceptible to damage form potholes, kerbing, etc;
- Softer ride quality and it takes more pressure off the suspension parts, which then will last longer;
- Most high-er (relatively speaking) tyres are normally a bitter narrower and thus will have a lower rolling resistance, which gives a bit better mpg, as well as better grip on snow and better aquaplaning resistance in the wet;
- Both wheels and tyres (see above points) of this type (size profile) will thus last a good deal longer and require replacement much less often, plus they mostly are a lot cheaper than the larger diameter wheels ' low profile, wider tyres, thus you can save a LOT of money over the lifetime of the car on repairs and replacments of tyres, wheels and suspension parts.
Disadvantages
- Grip and handling abilities in normal conditions (not snow) not as good as the lower profile tyres, though seemingly more noticeable on higher-sided / higher centre of gravity vehicles like SUVs and MPVs than 'ordinary' cars;
- They don't look as good as larger wheels/low profil tyres, except perhaps on proper off-roaders.
In my view, some SUVs (and some makes of car) often rely too heavily these days on the 'safety' systems like traction and stability control, as well as being shod on big wheels and low profile tyres with a firm suspension to overcome inherrant below par handling charactiertics.
This, in turn, often leads to poor ride comfort and/or tyres, alloy wheels and suspension parts needing to be replaced far more often the should be (see above), which adds a significant amount to the running costs of the vehicles.
Note also that SUVs are less fuel efficient than a 'normal' car with similar load / passenger-carrying capabilities and similar engines, because they are mostly heavier and have a poorer aerodynnamic profile. They also cost more (normally averaging between 5-10%) to buy.
I would also advocate getting decent quality all-season tyres the first time they need changing, ones appropriate for the area you do most of your driving in. They are normally a softer compound than standard 'summer' tyres, which means they will give a quiter ride generally, at the cost of a bit worse mpg, but mostly better grip in the wet and especially when the weather is below around 7degC and very much on snow.
They do last a bit less than a summer tyre and are about 20-30% more expensive, but if combined with a higher sidewall type, that more than cancels that downside in those respects, plus the better grip in poor weather.
I changed my aged Mazda3's OEM 16in alloy wheels and 205/55 R16 summer tyres (sidewall 112.75mm high) to 15in alloys (still Mazda) and 195/65 R15 Michelin CC+ all season tyres (sidewall 126.75mm high) and never looked back - even just going down one wheel size and compensating with the extra sidewall made a big difference to the ride quality, and thus far has mean less suspension parts replacements since it was done in 2018 despite the car being then 12 years old.
When I buy a replacement car, I will make sure it comes shod on sensible wheels and tyres (my Mazda's original ones weren't that bad - many cars now are shod on 215/45 R18 tyres as standard, sidewall height only 96.75mm) like the latest Mazda3 on 205/60 R16 (123mm H). 50 profile an absolute minimum - better if the tyres are wide, preferably 55-65 profile. Most car makes give 'standard advise' wheel and tyre combinations each car can 'take' in the handbook or on a plate on the driver's door/frame.
Remember to get a nice long test drive on a variety of different road/surface types that you regularly use, and make sure you get the seat/steering wheel adjusted the best you can for all drivers when testing each car, as not doing either can give a false result and lead to buyer's regret (and a lot of ££ down the drain if you have to change the car).
Best of luck.
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