I suppose it depends upon what you ant out of the car - if it's just reliable A to B motoring, then certain cars like the Auris (the current Corolla will be well outside your price range) should be fine, even if it has a CVT auto box.

The previous generation Hyundai i30 / KIA Ceed might do, though I do recall some reports mentioned on this website about their earlier non DCT (i.e. TC) auto tarnsmissions being a bit weak - others may know more than I on this subject.

The Pulsar was always discounted when it was (new) on sale, but for good reason - it was unpopular. Not sure about the auto version, as that could be either Nissan's less than great CVT or Renault's dual clutch unit, both of which I personally wouldn't trust, especially on an older car.

I did find it to be roomy, but I thought that the steering wheel offset was quite promounced - I had a look inside one when I was mulling over replacing my (then) 11yo Mazda3 (which I decided not to and still own). Whether it's still that much cheaper than similar sized cars, I'm not sure.

For the Mazda3, you may have to settle (price-wise) for a gen-2 car, which is fine. The autos are reliable TC units, just sap more power than DCTs or CVTs and reduce the mpg by about 10%. Many more 1.6 petrol autos around (though nothing like the number of manuals) than 2L versions, which are more perky to drive but get about 10% less mpg, though both are in the low 30s. A careful driver may get 33-34 mpg ave. from the 1.6 petrol auto.

If by some chance you could get a gen-3 car that's in good nick (likely to be a high mileage car), then the 2L Skyactiv-G engine is better suited to the auto box and can get around high 30s-40 mpg and reasonable performance.

To get the 'best' (newest/in best condition) car, I'd keep the spec of the car to the absolute minimum you need - it also means the cost of ownership, including reliability issues, should be favourable as well.

Don't buy a poorly presented pile of rubbish (as some might be in the current market) just because it is under your price limit. You may want to bring along someone with 'mechanic' knowledge or get one of the breakdown organisations to give your final 2 or 3 cars the once over before handing over the cash. Older cars may be hiding corrosion problems underneath.

You may also find that buying privately from (say) and elderly owner who's done with driving but kept the car in decent nick may be far more affordable than a dealership - it depends upon what warranty they offer.

Best of luck.

Edited by Engineer Andy on 28/05/2022 at 14:59

Suggestion :- Nissan Note 1.6 Auto - model ending around 63 reg. Bullet proof 1.6 cam chain engine (check service history though) and fabulous torque converter auto box with overdrive.

Edited by Big John on 28/05/2022 at 19:33

It doesn't sound like this car will be with much, even in today's inflated market.

If it still works why not run in until it packs up?

Is it dangerous when it misfires?

Have you tried running it on high octane fuel? That can help some VX cars with misfire problems.

We have asked as to what could of caused the misfire codes to return and they have advised that cylinder 1 seems to be slightly weak.......

Dying? Doesn't sound like a terminal illness to me. This is a car with less than half the mileage of our recently deceased Focus (Ford's equivalent car). Need to have a more precise diagnosis than 'slightly weak'! This engine should have tens of thousands of miles of wear left in it. Did they do a compression test? If so, what eactly were the results?

but no sign of misfire so next stage is to have top half engine rebuild.

Whoa!!! This is sounding more and more like a garage looking for work.

......we have decided its time to replace it rather than put more money into it.

Is this a wise decision? It has stopped depreciating, which a replacement car will do immediately. If it's running OK, it doesn't need more money putting into it for now. And doing fewer than 3000 miles a year is not going to cause much wear and tear. Our Focus was regularly displaying its EML in latter years, cured by cleaning the throttle body. If it can be 'turned off', presumably by just disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery, it won't fail the MoT.

cylinder 1 seems to be slightly weak but no sign of misfire so next stage is to have top half engine rebuild.

No.

It isn't

One small step on the invoice, maybe, but certainly one GIANT LEAP on the remittance.

(It could of course be they gave you a fully convincing account of what seems to be slightly weak means, which you havnt shared because it isn't any of our business, which would be fair enough, I suppose.)

Wife's car about 3months ago had replacement plugs and coil pack following misfiring codes coming up during a downpour. Last week engine light came on again with same codes, garage has turned codes off as no misfire present.

Misfiring following a downpour to me indicates an electrical issue - especially on the High Tension side - Coil pack/s , plugs, leads (if fitted - suspect not with the Astra). Was the new coil pack a cheap non OE - there are some dodgy ones around.

If engine issue is further suspected then a compression test is recommended and fairly cheap/simple to do. If the compression is low on a cylinder or two then a follow up is pouring a little oil into the plug hole and repeating the test. If the oil has temporarily "fixed" the issue then it indicates a bore/piston/rings problem, if compression remains low then this can be a valve problem. It needs careful interpretation though - a worn engine will usually have a slight improvement on the oil test. However oil will never temporarily fix a burnt/ chipped valve. If there is compression issue on a old car then it's probably not worth fixing.

Does sound as though your wife no longer trusts the car - so time to change anyway.

Edited by Big John on 29/05/2022 at 23:14

Seat Toledo / Skoda Rapid - you get a lot of not very fashionable car for your money.