I use a offcut rectangular block of woood with a sawcut down the middle into which the vertical section of the sill sits..
I don't generallyl like wood (especially softwoods) in this application because it can split down the grain.
Been using wood since the 1970's and never had a single issue. It will of course split if you put the grain along the sill section but put the load across the grain and you will never have an issue.
My current blocks were made from a piece of surplus decking which is about 1 1/2" thick (not the cheapo Wickes stuff). It is certainly more dense than the typical softwood you get.
But do not use the machined groves to locate the block, these are along the grain and the block will split.
Seems reasonable if you are using a trolley jack under sills, but I never do that because I don't have a trolley jack (a bulky item) and years of British bangers mean I tend to distrust sills for life-threatening load bearing.
I don't use "official" jacking points either, since they tend to be rust traps and designed to fit the supplied occaisional use jack, which I often dont have anyway,.
If there isn't a suitable strong point for the bottle jack (roll bar mounting plate on the front of the current car) I think its sometimes worth making one (steel channel wedged in alongside a rear suspension mount on the current car).
A bottle jack has too small a contact area to be safe with most woods, IMO.
Edited by edlithgow on 06/02/2020 at 18:58
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