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Bangernomics - SLO76
Running a car on a very low budget can be done reliably with a bit care and possibly a dose of good luck. It’s something I’ve done for many years and I’ve also helped friends and customers do it.

The smug feeling that comes from beating the system is every bit as good as the joy of having some expensive new car on your drive as long as image isn’t a major concern. No monthly payment, no expensive main dealer servicing, no worries if it catches a scuff or a dent and you’ll be carefree about where you park it. It can be truly worry free monitoring of done right.

However to list cars I’d recommend is complicated by the fact that condition is of much greater importance than make and model at this money. I wouldn’t for example walk past a tidy one owner Renault Clio with history to get to a tatty Honda Jazz that hasn’t seen spanner’s in years.

That said some are obviously better than others from the outset so if we assume similar condition, history and mileage a list of bargain bucket favourites does present itself. I’ve sold cars in this class since I first started out in the trade in 1996 and have always liked cars with character as I refer to them over cars with never-ending cost.

Let’s set the price limit of £2,000, here’s my list of favourites, cars I’ve sold and had little to no bother with. I’ll leave out performance and prestige metal plus SUV’s as these are unwise buys at this money that’ll most likely c****** any owner on a tight budget.

Best City car £2,000

Kia Picanto/Hyundai i10 jointly

Better made, more practical and cheaper than the equivalent 107/C1/Aygo. Mechanically tough and low mileage late model 2011 cars can be had for £1,500. Cheap to buy, cheap to tax and does everything you need for peanuts and thanks to the uncool image you won’t have many rivals pushing up the price. Most are kept by elderly longterm owners who look after them too. Just watch for rot underneath especially if it’s came from up north or the coast.


Best supermini £2,000

Toyota Yaris

Find one that’s solid and you can’t go wrong with one of these. Watch for slipping clutches and rot underneath but they’re no worse than anything else it’s just that little else goes wrong if they’ve been looked after. Often people do however abuse them as they’re regarded as bombproof but that doesn’t extend to neglect, they need oil every year. I’d leave the diesels at this money. The Mk I Jazz is a close second but gearbox bearings and thrust bearings are weak beyond 100,000 miles plus they’re very firm riding.


Best small family hatch £2,000

Toyota Corolla 1.4/1.6

Mechanically very tough with no real vices beyond sticking brake callipers. Resists Rot better than most and rarely falls into the hands of anyone under the age of 60 so few are abused. A perfect banger buy. The Mazda 3 is a close second and is much better to drive but rust is an issue. Get a solid one and it’ll be a great servant. Honda Civic up to 2005 is another good option but the Toyota wins it for me. If you must have a diesel then the Toyota or Honda 1.7 are the best bets. Autos are fine on all three.

Best Large family car

Honda Accord 2.0

Very pleasant to drive, ok on fuel and very long lived here if looked after. I’d favour the estate but it’s rare in good order with most abused as workhorses. The Toyota Avensis is a close second but isn’t as nice to drive but there’s loads about and they’re cheap. I’d leave the diesels here as most will be mega mile and abused plus the early Honda 2.2 diesels aren’t the most robust. Autos are fine on both.

It’s a short shortlist but I would be aiming for simple petrol engined family owned cars that’ve been with the current/last owner longterm. Forget complex turbo diesels and prestige brands. Buy on condition and history over age and mileage and get under it to look for major rot before buying. I look for cars at this money privately. Look for wealthy addresses and elderly owners who’ve had them for years. Phrases like ‘owner giving up driving’ and ‘for sale due to bereavement’ are gold when shopping for bangers.


Bangernomics - Will deBeast

>> The Mk I Jazz is a close second but gearbox bearings and thrust bearings are weak beyond 100,000 miles plus they’re very firm riding.

Having owned both, I agree that the Yaris is slightly better. The magic seats on the Jazz make it incredibly versatile - great usable space. The gearbox bearings on my wife's Jazz went at 8 years/40,000 miles.

Bangernomics - elekie&a/c doctor
Well out of my league here. The most I have paid for Bangernomic motoring is £400. Bought 2 years ago , a Focus 2 litre Ghia 2003, 70k miles,with leather heated seats and freezing cold climate control. A few minor scrapes and dents, but who cares. Regularly does around 35 mpg . No rot underneath . Just put new brembo brake pads all round for about £60 . Still think the Mk1 Focus is the best model . That will do nicely thank you .
Bangernomics - Chris M

Elekie. So from a spanner wielding point of view, would you agree with SLO's choices?

For me, fairly straightforward DIY maintenance and easy spares availability. SLO's choices aren't so common at breakers as Fords, VWs, etc.

Bangernomics - Steveieb

Thanks to SLO i am still running my Audi A4 B6 TDI with 130 bhp.

Current value according to my indie is £150 without a tank of fuel.

No worries at all when i leave it down town and small mishaps sorted with a touch up kit.

Only just realised i can run it on 3rd party insurance. So another saving. Almost written off when the roof lining fell down. Now fixed with a staple gun when the adhesive failed in the hot weather.

Going to featured on James Ruppor'ts Autocar column which is always interesting to read.

50 mpg and great performance , I still get offers from Eastern European visitors who obviously appreciate the sturdiness of this and the Passat.

Lets see how long it will carry on SLO !

And thanks to Elekie for his constant advice on making do !

Bangernomics - SLO76
“Thanks to SLO i am still running my Audi A4 B6 TDI with 130 bhp.”

Keep it going as long as you can, it might surprise you how long it’ll last. I typically won’t recommend a cheap diesel as there’s just too much that can go wrong and all too often they’re neglected by people running it on a shoestring but this was one of the best Diesel engines ever made if not the best 4cyl. I’ve seen them with well over 500k in Octavia taxis but later VAG diesels are sadly not as robust.
Bangernomics - SLO76
Saving the Mk I Focus for the sub £1,000 ultra Bangernomics list. It’s a brilliant car IF you can find one that’s not rotten through which sadly means the overwhelming bulk of those still on the road up here. But I can’t think of anything that’s better to drive at under £1,000, in fact £300 can bag a serviceable example. Best of the lot to me is the 1600 Yamaha designed zetec SE motor which was very reliable and such a sweet revving thing.
Bangernomics - elekie&a/c doctor

You have to admire Mr slo's appreciation and honest views on value motoring, something that the car magazines have long lost. Their idea of a long term test is not more than 10k miles ,if you are lucky. No way are they going to report on a car that has covered 30k plus, when the timing chains , dsg gearboxes (or similar) ,numerous emission and egr valves fail and cost more than the value of the car to repair. As for getting your spanners out on the suggested models listed, probably not going to be needed too often.

Bangernomics - Moodyman

New joiner here, but I've read lots of Slo's posts and agree with his motoring philosophy. However, I fear his price of £2k is a bit high for bangernomics. I think true bangernomics is under £1k. It needs to have 9-12 months MOT so you're getting a years worth of driving and if something big comes up in your next MoT, just scrap it and start again. If it passes, it's a bonus.

£2k is the next level up - shed territory. Where it's good enough to spend £3-£400 at the next MOT but still saving you shedloads when compared to a new car.

I think mid to late 90s Japanese cars are the sweet spot for bangernomics. Always choose cars popular with the elderly when new i.e. Corolla, Civic, Almera, Carina, etc. Olders drivers tend to buy simple cars and service them religiously for peace of mind. Some colours are popular with older drivers too e.g. certain shades of blue and green.

My own purchases: two* mid 90s Corollas - one £595 and £650. I think once you go below £500 you're giving up too much. As these are 20 years old they qualify for classic car insurance, but as the oily bits were used on subsequent models, parts are plentiful and cheap. 1.3 fuel injected engine returns 45mpg combined cycle and 60+ on motorway. As the car is quite light (1000kg or so) it has no problem keeping up with traffic.

No electrical gremlins and dead easy for DIY maintenance.

So utterly reliable you take them for granted. * I crashed the first and ended up buying another as replacement.

Bangernomics - Andrew-T

<< As these are 20 years old they qualify for classic car insurance, >>

Not sure about that, it may depend on the insurer. My 1990 Pug 205 was with Lancaster as a 'classic' but when I swapped it for a 1994 Pug 306 and tried to convert the policy, they said the 306 didn't qualify and offered me something costing seven times as much.

Bangernomics - Moodyman
MK1 Focus is brilliant, but has to be chosen carefully. Their price and reputation for being good to drive attracts the young enthusiastic drivers who often skimp on maintenance.

Edited by Moodyman on 14/10/2019 at 00:38

Bangernomics - Avant

It was indeed in last week's Autocar. Even James Ruppert, who should know a thing or two about bangernomics, said Steve should go for the newer Jaguar that was tempting him.

Either could give him trouble-free motoring; either could go expensively wrong. But staying with the devil you know until it does become uneconomic seems to make sense. My faith would be in SLO.

Bangernomics - SLO76
Had a few purchases in the rear Bangernomics bible pages of Autocar over the years. All were privately bought and for personal use not intended for profit yet most either cost nothing in depreciation or actually sold for a profit after a few months or a years use. It’s fun trying to run a car on zero depreciation and quite possible if you buy wisely.

I often disagree with James on his suggestions as I think he too often recommends complex executive metal that’ll just go wrong in the hands of your typical ultra budget buyer but I get the appeal of a big Luxo barge that no one else wants. I personally stick with keeping it simple though.
Bangernomics - Nobby Clark

SLO76 helped me find my 2003 2.4 Petrol Auto Honda Accord last year as I was fed up with paying the monthlies on a brand new motor!

It was up for sale with an elderly lady in an affluent area who sadly wasn't able to drive any longer. The car has full Honda service history and had only 51k miles on the clock for which I've added a further 6k in a year.

She has only cost me on a couple of tyres, brake pads and servicing and has just gone through an MOT.

In the beginning I was laughed at as at the age of 40 I'd bought an "old man's car"! These people aren't laughing now, who own various German prestige marques and are always having to pay out on them!! :)

A big thank you again to SLO for the help he gave me and continues to give to others.

If something happens to my Honda, I'd be out looking again for another cheap Japanese motor as I'm always surprised just how many decent cars are out there for very little money.

Edited by Nobby Clark on 14/10/2019 at 06:27

Bangernomics - Terry W

I can fully understand the pleasure to be had from looking at others and reflecting on how smart you are. You bought a car for 1/20th of the cost. You are in the same traffic snarl up or motorway and it may even be a more prestige brand with a nicer drive.

But here is the problem:

  • your 15-20 year old repmobile, Merc, Jag or BMW will go wrong more often
  • unless you are handy with spanners etc it will cost more to maintain
  • it will almost certainly use more fuel
  • it will (if buying a similar market segment) have far fewer gizmos

If you can live with this, fine. But (a) I want to get in and go, (b) my days of crawling around on oil soaked concrete no longer holds any attraction (c) few days lost to repairs.

My personal suloution is to buy a one year old mid range car for about £10 - 14k. It will have two years warranty. If driven with a bit of restraint (not abused) I should get 8-10years out of it with no major expense (bar servicing and wear items).

Over (say) 8 years with some trade in value at the end it will cost me £1250 pa.

Unless DiY proficient this may be close to the bangernomic costs. I a major failure the vehicle would be scrap. Over 8-10 years I may need to buy 4 or 5 cars - there will be lemons and they will all be full of substantially time/use expired components.

Bangernomics - madf

We have a Mark1 Yaris diesel -owned since 2005 and a Mark 2 Jazz from 2012.. One 16 years old and one 7 years old..

The advantage - of teh Yaris when things break - window winding mechanisms and heater resistor is there are LOTS of cheap sh working parts on ebay So if you are semi competent it is very cheap. I am 72 and still diy - but I also do a lot of yoga and walking/exercises which make continued DIY possible.. Not that it is complex or often required..

It's obvious that EVs are going to make conevntional vehicle obsolete by c 2035... but by that time I may be dead/gaga or infrim so I don't worry. There will come a time when buying a new conventional car will be economic madness... around 2025 I suspect as EVs come available in volume.

SO I am sticking to what we have..

(Dinitrol is best for rust- a quick clean away of any loose rust and spray it on.. Works a treat.)

Bangernomics - OceanMan

I've always been a believer in bangernomics and Thought anyone spending more than a few k on a car was wasting money but this post has given me second thoughts. It's also worth noting the non monetary cost of running a car with a higher chance of breaking down. There's obviously the chance you can break down at a very inconvenient and dangerous time and place. On a motorway, or on holiday. My £900 Peugeot broke down as I was driving to see a friend I hadn't met in years and I subsequently wasn't able to meet her for a while after. Hard to put a price on that.

Bangernomics - SLO76

I've always been a believer in bangernomics and Thought anyone spending more than a few k on a car was wasting money but this post has given me second thoughts. It's also worth noting the non monetary cost of running a car with a higher chance of breaking down. There's obviously the chance you can break down at a very inconvenient and dangerous time and place. On a motorway, or on holiday. My £900 Peugeot broke down as I was driving to see a friend I hadn't met in years and I subsequently wasn't able to meet her for a while after. Hard to put a price on that.

Touch wood, I’ve never broken down or suffered a serious failure to date. Keep it simple and stick with well maintained petrol engined Japs and reliability can be every bit as good as newer motor.
Bangernomics - madf

I've always been a believer in bangernomics and Thought anyone spending more than a few k on a car was wasting money but this post has given me second thoughts. It's also worth noting the non monetary cost of running a car with a higher chance of breaking down. There's obviously the chance you can break down at a very inconvenient and dangerous time and place. On a motorway, or on holiday. My £900 Peugeot broke down as I was driving to see a friend I hadn't met in years and I subsequently wasn't able to meet her for a while after. Hard to put a price on that.

Touch wood, I’ve never broken down or suffered a serious failure to date. Keep it simple and stick with well maintained petrol engined Japs and reliability can be every bit as good as newer motor.

I have been driving since 1967.. In all that time ,I have only failed to finish a journey under my car's own power three times

Once when a 3 years old Mercedes 260E lunched its ignition barrel and was undriveable. and the seond time when a two year old Rover 800 with 30k miles broke its clutch centre plate when I tried to drive out of our garage.Company Car.s both

And my peronally owned £2000 1981 Jaguar XJ6 overheated 5 miles from home due to a thermostat stuck in the closed position..

Even when I was a student driving clapped out sub £50 Minis/A30s and in later life , any issues were roadside repairable..

Bangernomics - SLO76
“ A big thank you again to SLO for the help he gave me and continues to give to others.”

Happy to help. Always enjoy spending other people’s money.
Bangernomics - Terry W

My first car was a 1961 Ford Anglia. Pretty much all tasks could be tackled with a 1/2" and 9/16" spanner, a couple of screwdrivers, and a very basic halfords socket set. Electrics were just that - bits of wire and circuits easily checked (12v bulb) and fixed. Rust killed cars, not electrical or mechanical issues.

Bangernomics is about vehicles typically 15-25 years old. Older cars are straying into classic territory - not a substitute for a newish car, but a driving experrience with spares, economy and power all somewhat questionable.

And the late 1990s mark the major transition from fairly simple electromechanical devices to the computers with wheels now being sold. But the vastly improved functionality, performance and economy available today comes at a price.

Tracking down faults is now the preserve of specialists who often cannot always trace the source of a problem with code readers etc.

Perhaps these specialists will be able to support bangernomic afficionados well into the future, or failure of ECUs of which there are many on the average new vehicle will be increasingly the car and bangernomics killer of the future.

Bangernomics - joegrundy

I've just renewed my membership of the bangernomics club.

A couple of weeks ago I took my 2004 x-type diesel, 189k, to my indy to finally get my rear suspension sorted out and a few other things. It was running well and I hoped to get it to 200k. I was summoned, and joined the mechanic (they are mechanics, not 'technicians' although I suppose they could be both) under the car on the lift. Sadly for all of us, quickly developing corrosion was readily apparent and proximate sound metal was elusive. Totting up the estimated cost of all that needed doing, even at my indy's reasonable rates, it was clear that the end was nigh. She still had a few month's MOT and wasn't unroadworthy, so I started my search for a replacement.

I knew what to look for, of course, having studied these boards -Jap or Korean, petrol, preferably private sale. I wanted to avoid PCP or finance and decided to spend about £2.5 -£3k and be open as to make/model etc.

Don't seem to be so many private sales around locally nowadays - perhaps they're being p/x for new on PCP deals? My kids tell me that local faceache groups have some. I looked at stuff with dealers but looking at MOT records revealed much to be wary of.

I went to have a chat with my indy (he's an MOT tester) fo find out what to make of/how seriously to take some of the MOT advisories and that sort of stuff. And bought a car. It doesn't fit any of my criteria. It's a 2003 SEAT Leon 1.9Tdi 130, 120k.

It was owned by one of his customers, and he's been minimally looking after it for a few years (by which I mean oil changes, MOTs and essential stuff). It came from the main dealer in the town and hasn't been far since. The lady obviously had kids (from the detritus in the car) and used it for school and to and from work. Not much TLC - I didn;t realise until I'd done a bit of work on it that it was metallic.

But there's a year's MOT (one advisory - a minor exhaust leak), it's sound, and everything works including the a/c. but the cupholder spring is broken. It cost £650. Indy has the x-type and is hoping to get more for it than scrap value.

It is a delight to drive, same power as x-type but much lighter and brings a smile. Pulls well in 6th, 70 is less than 2000rpm and 90 less than 2500 (I would think, hypothetically).

Interestingly, I am much more inclined to do stuff to this car and have changed pollen filter (gross) air filter (needed doing) and fuel filter. General sorting out continues. I think because of the low purchase price I'm more happy to spend a few quid on bits and pieces.

I've put a tank of diesel with cleaner through it and it;s responding well.

Three problems to fix: exhaust leak, water ingress through door seal (a common problem and a £3 tube of sealant should remedy) and a slight hesitancy at certain revs. Confident that these can be overcome.

One downside - my excellent breakdown insurance people don't do European cover for cars over 15 years old, but this would have applied to the Jag in Feb anyway.

Interesting times ...

Bangernomics - elekie&a/c doctor

Excellent purchase .These Vw 1.9 tdi Pd engines go forever ,more than can be said for the current breed of Vw engines. Just remember to give it regular oil and filter changes with the correct grade oil.

Bangernomics - joegrundy

Thanks for that, that's encouraging.

I think I'll be taking it into the indy soon to have what it probably hasn't had for a while, a 'look at everything, do whatever needs doing' service.

Bangernomics - Andrew-T

<< I am much more inclined to do stuff to this car and have changed pollen filter (gross) air filter (needed doing) and fuel filter. General sorting out continues. I think because of the low purchase price I'm more happy to spend a few quid on bits and pieces. >>

Sounds like fun. I think your response is the normal one, having bought a new toy at a bargain price, to see how much better you can make it look and perform. This will slowly wear off when you decide that further improvement is impossible, too complex or too expensive.

I recently sold my 1990 Pug 205 - which was in remarkably good bodily condition - to my SiL's brother, who is thrilled with it (as is his teenage daughter, oddly enough). He is continuing to make the small improvements I had lost the impetus to do.

Bangernomics - joegrundy

I think you're exactly right. I'd given up the pleasure of laying underneath cars with oil dripping in your eyes a long time ago (i.e. when I didn't need to any more) but I'm really enjoying this.

Today I spent a few hours hoovering leaves and stuff out of the engine bay, degreasing and generally cleaning up, fixing small stuff, etc. A poundstretcher 'magic sponge' and a cheap carpet cleaner spray brought some interior trim up a treat.

I have even gone so far as to order some brake cleaner and 5L of WD40. I don't think I would have done this, nor contemplated door panel removal etc., if I'd spent more on a newer car.

Some sort of perverse pride or sense of achievement, perhaps - knowing that I could have bought the 'very reasonably priced new xxxx at 'only' £20,000' but I'm doing this instead.

(I bought a 1990 205 XLD in 1992. Superb car. Stupidly traded it in for something bigger, flasher, worse.)

Bangernomics - Avant

We'll miss that valiant old Jag: I seem to remember you telling us that you took a bit of a risk when you bought it - but it did you proud.

Good luck with the Leon: agreed, the PD 130 is a great engine - very durable as well as lively.

Bangernomics - joegrundy

Thanks, Avant, so will I. £2700 in 2013, so she did 57,000 miles in comfort and with good economy. Not many problems - Pirate Pierre the mechanique will be a memory. I think I did well - especially when compared with new car depreciation and problems.

Sadly, the cost to keep her going (probably over £1000 with the welding - and that's always an unknown quantity) decided her fate, but my indy told me that she's going to live on a farm where it's sunny all the time and she'll spend all day playing in the fields with other cars.

Edited by joegrundy on 21/10/2019 at 00:59

Bangernomics - Andrew-T

(I bought a 1990 205 XLD in 1992. Superb car. Stupidly traded it in for something bigger, flasher, worse.)

This is the first time for 30 years that there has been no 205 in the family (the offspring gave them up long ago). I now have a 306 Garros instead - only two of those left on the road now. It had a few modest faults, many of which I have cured with help from Ebay, but it drives beautifully despite having spent several years in a Somerset field ....

Bangernomics - SLO76
All this talk of 205’s brings back memories of my early days in the motor trade and to the cars that first attracted me to bangernomics.

The 205 1.8 Diesel - was a bit of a legend for longevity in its day. Well protected bodywork that resisted rot well, low running costs yet lively performance and a big under-stressed diesel motor that would run to half a million miles with care. These never sat long in the yard even the base model I ran as my company car for a while despite my best attempts to keep it dirty and hidden from view.

Rover 213 (post facelift) - yes really, these were so popular as cheap used cars that I had a long waiting list for them, even rusty examples would sell quickly. That wee 1343cc Honda motor was impossible to kill yet turbine smooth and good on fuel. Add in comfortable seats and a decent ride it made a great small family car.

Mitsubishi Colt/Lancer - Loaded with gear and bulletproof mechanically, these were great little cars that typically had a very loyal following. They left the firm when quality nosedived with the Carisma and later Colt.

Ford Sierra 2.3D - the taxi trade would take these in almost any condition, mechanically they were nearly indestructible. Slow, noisy and not particularly economical though so Joe public wasn’t interested.

Nissan Bluebird - another car that was impossible to break even if utterly neglected especially the diesel.

Toyota Corolla - any type sold well especially the 5dr hatch and the rare estate. Easy to drive and never went wrong. The GTi was a rare pleasure too being fun and tough.



Bangernomics - SLO76
The 1.9 PD TDI motors are the best 4cyl diesels of their time, I’ve seen them with huge mileages up and still pulling like a train. As with any older car there’s plenty that can go wrong but it’s cheap enough to be worth spending a few quid on and I’m assuming solid enough to warrant it.
Bangernomics - Steveieb
Not sure if you remember but I took SLO s advice and kept my A4 B6 with this Tdi 130 engine.
I love the effortless pull which means less gear changing and amazing fuel consumption.
May get the air con fixed as I love the car so much. But I love the north south engine / gearbox layout as it allows equal length drive shafts and superb weight distribution
After a day at Millbrook trying all the new cars I am surprised by the performance of the Audi and comfort considering that it's only worth £150 according to my indie !

Worry free parking too when I am in town on Saturday night and eligible for third party insurance too.
Prestige wise as long as it has the four silvery rings on the grille that does the trick .mmost people don't notice the 03 Reg .

As SLO says see how long the old gal will go for !
Bangernomics - Andrew-T
Prestige wise as long as it has the four silvery rings on the grille that does the trick .most people don't notice the 03 Reg .

Those silvery rings you mention turn quite a few people off because of perceived driving behaviour .... :-)

Bangernomics - gordonbennet

Well bought Joe Grundy, shame the Jag is terminal though.

A tip for you, son had the very similar Toledo, also a very good car, but do make sure the coolant is of a good quality and replaced when its supposed to...he being a typical bod of the younger generation at the time had JohnF's attitude to proper servicing :-) we love you really John.

Cos...the heater radiator corroded from inside on his and muggins here got roped in to help swap the thing out, main radiator was leaking too, removing the main radiator was a pita enough what with all the bolts etc corroded, but replacing the heater matrix was one of the most horrible jobs i've ever done..

It must be the very first part fitted to the body shell at manufacture stage and the entire dash has to come out including the bolted in steel cross member behind said dash, which involved shifting the centre console and even the front seats if i recall to allow everything to move, even though heater rad itself is fitted inside the car it's bolted in from the bonnet side of the bulkhead so more dismantling that side to access the bolts, mucho cursing was heard over that weekend.

Bangernomics - Steveieb
Imagine this job would write off the car if it was booked into a garage.
Similar story is the zircon compressor if it is a Hella like on my A4.
Once the drive shaft rounds off internally the debris sometimes gets circulated around the system ending up with either a £1200 job or a written off.
Bangernomics - Nomag

I bought an 03 Toledo 1.9 TDI but with the old 110bhp/non PD engine in 2004. They were "cheap" second hand at the time relative to the Leon. I loved that car and stupidly kept it only 2 years and replaced it with a Leon FR, and after a dalliance with Audi and Hyundai I'm back in a newer Leon FR now.

My 03 Toledo was to be seen driving round locally until quite recently, looking somewhat "well worn". Good luck with the Leon, Joe Grundy

Bangernomics - Moodyman

I'm lucky to have a mechanic as a best friend and he does most of my jobs for beer money. I do smaller jobs meself. I'm running a MK2 petrol Octavia as the main family car (driven by wife) and a 1992 petrol Corolla as my DIY / tip run car. The Octavia was bought for £1400 and the Corolla for £600. I also ride bicycles for most local journeys.

It's good to stick two fingers up at the system.

Edited by Moodyman on 21/10/2019 at 23:51

Bangernomics - alan1302

.

It's good to stick two fingers up at the system.

When you start let us know