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Jack it up under the suspension rather than the chassis, that will keep the drive shaft straight.
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I used to go trialling, until I broke a diff pin by excessively spinning one wheel. That meant the planet wheels spun on their shaft, until the resulting friction caused them to fret on their shaft, causing it to shear the diff pin. This allowed the planet wheel shaft to come out far enough to knock a hole in the diff casing! Result, no gearbox/diff oil.
Yes the gearbox/diff oil was up to level.
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I'd raise the drive end of the car, block it on solid wood preferably, and run both drive wheels.
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I'd raise the drive end of the car, block it on solid wood preferably, and run both drive wheels.
Not sure that'd be that much different.
If there's a difference in brake drag I'd think that might stop one wheel and let the other one spin, though I can't remember if I've ever tried it.
Background/Context: I taped some thin plastic sheet (not Clingfilm but that would probably be better and I might try that later) around my torn CV boot as "first aid" pending fitting a replacement boot, and ran it as above to see if it snagged anything on full lock both ways.
Seemed OK but I noticed the hub got quite hot, suggesting the brakes are binding, so I fancied comparing both sides using an IR thermometer.
One could do a road test, but any use of the brakes (difficult to avoid entirely) would invalidate the results, plus you'd need the wheels on and they'd get in the way.
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I used to go trialling, until I broke a diff pin by excessively spinning one wheel. That meant the planet wheels spun on their shaft, until the resulting friction caused them to fret on their shaft, causing it to shear the diff pin. This allowed the planet wheel shaft to come out far enough to knock a hole in the diff casing! Result, no gearbox/diff oil.
Yes the gearbox/diff oil was up to level.
Don't trials cars have "twiddle brakes" so you can brake the spinning wheel only, or does that only apply to the purpose-built classes?
Sounds like it could be a problem, then. Maybe I'd better not do it.
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Don't trials cars have "twiddle brakes" so you can brake the spinning wheel only, or does that only apply to the purpose-built classes?
Yes, that's 'sporting trials'. I was doing PCTs (Production Car Trials) in a KIA Pride, that was surprisingly competitive. A working diff was tested for by putting rollers under one driven wheel and getting you to spin them up in gear.
You think you've got supply problems where you live, try finding a scrapyard with a KIA Pride gearbox in the UK!
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Ford Festiva here, now thinning out a bit, and manual gearboxes will be quite a lot rarer, though they did exist, at least for the Mk1.
If I ever get another RWD car I quite fancy fitting it with twiddle brakes, for that rugged, go-anywhere illusion.
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Is it a recognised technique to use the brakes to stop a wheel spinning on a FWD car?
It works a bit with an unmodified handbrake on a RWD car, but that would obviously do nothing on FWD unless its a SAAB with the handbrake operating on the front wheels (I understand that's why those SAAB's do it that way - I'd guess that'd make them a good production trials choice, if allowed)
The main brakes, operating on all 4 wheels, might be too much braking force to overcome.
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Is it a recognised technique to use the brakes to stop a wheel spinning on a FWD car?
It works a bit with an unmodified handbrake on a RWD car, but that would obviously do nothing on FWD unless its a SAAB with the handbrake operating on the front wheels (I understand that's why those SAAB's do it that way - I'd guess that'd make them a good production trials choice, if allowed)
The main brakes, operating on all 4 wheels, might be too much braking force to overcome.
yes, no other way to stop the driven wheels as they dont stop as the rears do, gearbox oil drag will keep them moving but slow, one will rotate backwards as the other one stops or carries on forwards depending on car, though never had a car that a driven wheel stopped altogether
Im assuming I read you correctly?
Edited by bolt on 05/10/2019 at 17:34
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I meant when driving in slippery conditions as in trials events.
I THINK you might mean with the wheels off the ground.
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I THINK you might mean with the wheels off the ground.
YES, sorry, misunderstood as it had drifted from original subject......
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OK, still of interest.
I'm thinking that, although the trials example suggests you can damage the diff doing this, if I don't run it like that for too long (say more than 5 mins) and keep it in first gear to keep the rotation speed down, I should be OK.
Unless I'm not
Now I just have to find my IR thermometer....
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OK, still of interest.
I'm thinking that, although the trials example suggests you can damage the diff doing this, if I don't run it like that for too long (say more than 5 mins) and keep it in first gear to keep the rotation speed down, I should be OK.
Unless I'm not
Now I just have to find my IR thermometer....
If its a standard diff I dont see any problems.
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Ed, Google Tim Hunkin's "The secret life of Machines". This was a TV series some years ago, in one episode he ran a car with one front wheel jacked up and applied the brake till the disc ran red-hot.
I found this about 19 minutes in on the YouTube episode entitled "The Car". (Several other episodes on YouTube, all worth a look).
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OK, thanks, I'll have a look.
From your description, though, I'd expect that to feed significant torque to the grounded wheel, causing the car to lurch forwards off the jack or stand.
Maybe they had it tied to the QEII (or otherwise restrained), out of shot.
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OK, thanks, I'll have a look.
From your description, though, I'd expect that to feed significant torque to the grounded wheel, causing the car to lurch forwards off the jack or stand.
Maybe they had it tied to the QEII (or otherwise restrained), out of shot.
Only on a limited slip diff, if you notice when a car is stuck in the mud or on oil one wheel spins but the other stays still whereas a limited slip diff prevents that, so unless you have lsd one wheel off the ground is the only wheel that will spin
bearing in mind if the brake is applied for a long time the disc will get red hot, only enough time to stop it at speed is all you need which wont hurt
but then you already know that
Edited by bolt on 07/10/2019 at 08:37
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OK, thanks, I'll have a look.
From your description, though, I'd expect that to feed significant torque to the grounded wheel, causing the car to lurch forwards off the jack or stand.
Maybe they had it tied to the QEII (or otherwise restrained), out of shot.
Only on a limited slip diff, if you notice when a car is stuck in the mud or on oil one wheel spins but the other stays still whereas a limited slip diff prevents that, so unless you have lsd one wheel off the ground is the only wheel that will spin
The braking effect on the jacked-up wheel will cause some torque transfer to the wheel on the ground, so Ed's comment about restraining the car from movement is valid.
(If a slipping wheel suddenly grips, the stationary wheel will get traction, as when a mat or grit is thrown under the spinning wheel).
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The braking effect on the jacked-up wheel will cause some torque transfer to the wheel on the ground, so Ed's comment about restraining the car from movement is valid.
My point was made on the assumption that the wheel was only spinning to check on the cvj boot, after that the engine would be either shut down or foot on clutch to disengage engine from drive, personally I raise both wheels for the unpredictability of diffs, simple as that
if the op wants to tie it to the QE2 thats his choice but I dont see the point when its easier to raise both wheels off the ground, safer!
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OK, thanks, I'll have a look.
From your description, though, I'd expect that to feed significant torque to the grounded wheel, causing the car to lurch forwards off the jack or stand.
Maybe they had it tied to the QEII (or otherwise restrained), out of shot.
Only on a limited slip diff, if you notice when a car is stuck in the mud or on oil one wheel spins but the other stays still whereas a limited slip diff prevents that, so unless you have lsd one wheel off the ground is the only wheel that will spin
The braking effect on the jacked-up wheel will cause some torque transfer to the wheel on the ground, so Ed's comment about restraining the car from movement is valid.
(If a slipping wheel suddenly grips, the stationary wheel will get traction, as when a mat or grit is thrown under the spinning wheel).
Yeh, I believe that's how twiddle brakes work.since they give independent braking of both driven wheels, usually on RWD
In the above scenario, BOTH driven wheels are braked.
OTOH an unmodified handbrake does work to defeat a slipping wheel and give you some traction with rear wheel drive, so why don't the main brakes do this on FWD?
My only/best guess is that the additional braking from the rear wheels might be too much braking force to overcome..
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Right, now we are all confused (or at least I am) I now have a better reason to be doing this.
I took it for a trip to the coast, maybe 50k including some expressway, and the rythmic steering kick I noted when I took it in for the 6-monthly test seemed to be getting worse.
Thought it might be run-out from a mis-mounted wheel but I cleaned up the hubs since and that didn't fix it.
I suppose the obvious suspect is a deteriorating CV joint following the boot split, though that seems a bit rapid onset if its a direct consequence of grease loss/contamination.
Marked (maybe a couple of cms angular steering wheel movement) at low speed, probably 1 per rev, turning into an apparently lower amplitude but of course higher frequency vibration at speed. Present when driven and when coasting.
Going to try one axle at a time, wheel on/off, to see if I can narrow down the source.
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Right, now we are all confused (or at least I am) I now have a better reason to be doing this.
I took it for a trip to the coast, maybe 50k including some expressway, and the rythmic steering kick I noted when I took it in for the 6-monthly test seemed to be getting worse.
Thought it might be run-out from a mis-mounted wheel but I cleaned up the hubs since and that didn't fix it.
I suppose the obvious suspect is a deteriorating CV joint following the boot split, though that seems a bit rapid onset if its a direct consequence of grease loss/contamination.
Marked (maybe a couple of cms angular steering wheel movement) at low speed, probably 1 per rev, turning into an apparently lower amplitude but of course higher frequency vibration at speed. Present when driven and when coasting.
Going to try one axle at a time, wheel on/off, to see if I can narrow down the source.
If your talking about steering wheel wobble ie steering is moving from left side to right on its own,? that can be caused by tyre tread out of straight against the carcase of the tyre its forcing the steering wheel to turn as the out of line tread hits the road
it still happens on new tyres as well as worn where the new tread is ok, but as it wears it goes out of straight line
just a thought!
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Thanks. Didn't know that.
In that case I'd expect it to go away with the source wheel off the ground, which would be nice.
These are well-worn marginal tread tyres and should perhaps be moved to the back now we are entering the dry season, best-tyres-on-the-back stylee, and to even-up wear.
The current rear tyres are the same age but have a lot more tread, since I've been lazy about swapping them seasonally..
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I've been lazy about swapping them seasonally..
We have so many pot holes around London, I really dont bother changing them front to back as they either get punctured eventually, or the pot holes wear the tyres really badly, even when the roads have been repaired (if you call it repairs lol)
theirs not much difference between after and before repair, just a bit of tarmac plopped in the hole and on to the next one, and our government have got the front to want vehicle road fund licence increase to pay for roads to be resurfaced
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Steering wheel kick wasn't apparent running in 2nd gear with NS axle (the one with the bad CV boot) off the ground , but rather noticable (no way of measuring it, since I don't have a dial guage thingy) run out wheel wobble was.
I cleaned up the hub (which wasný bad) and disk using beer can. Unfortunately the wobble seemed to be coming from the hub, and wheel wbble is still present with the rear wheel swapped to the front.
I'd guess this implies bearing failure,
Replacement seems to involve a lot of puller, press and mandrel SST's, plus a bearing of course, none of which are likely to be readily available.
There doesn't seem to be much free play when pulling on the top and bottom of the wheel.
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I've been lazy about swapping them seasonally..
We have so many pot holes around London, I really dont bother changing them front to back as they either get punctured eventually, or the pot holes wear the tyres really badly,
Roads here aren't too bad I suppose. Typhoon damage but that's mostly in the mountains, and no frost heave, which I THINK causes a lot of the damage in the Yook.
Got a lot of punctures on my Sierra. None so far on the Skywing (touch wood, etc).
Probably just chance, but the Sierra tyres were wider (so I suppose statistically more likely to encounter nails) and I parked it on campus, where I suppose it was statistically more likely to encounter disgruntled students that I'd failed.
With nails.
No evidence for that though and it probably isn't true.
Punctures aren't necessarily a big deal here anyway since those sticky string repair kits are readily available and work.
If I thought the car was likely to last much longer I'd try and get another wheel and match the spare, which is a younger Chen Shin heavy duty commercial tyre in a slightly different size, running the 4 Bridgestones on the front as alternating dry/wet season pairs.
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Temperature rise of 4 parts of the hub assembly (wheel off on stand, other wheel grounded, 2nd gear at about 2,000 rpm) monitored with Astro IR thermometer (bought in Japan) for about half an hour
Calculated 10 minute temperature rise (degrees C.)
Passenger side (suspect bearing)
shaft end 10
Inner hub 10.4
Caliper 7.6
Pad back 11.6
Driver side
Shaft end 4.1
Inner hub 3.7
Caliper 3.2
Pad back 3.3
Difference is probably brake binding, the original motivation for this test. IIRC the driver side rotated in neutral, the passenger side didn't. No clear indication of a bearing problem, though it can't be ruled out.
Driver side tyre had a bulge and is unservicable even by my standards. When moved to the back, a regular vibration was still felt on the test track, but the "kick" through the steering had gone.
Edited by edlithgow on 15/10/2019 at 14:26
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I once has a Triumph 1500, the drive shafts had rubber doughnut couplings, if one sheared (a common fault) the car would stop completely, all the drive would go to the broken side, leaving one stuck.
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I once has a Triumph 1500, the drive shafts had rubber doughnut couplings, if one sheared (a common fault) the car would stop completely, all the drive would go to the broken side, leaving one stuck.
Yes, I suppose it would.
I was in a syndicate that had one when I was working at Leeds University and staying in Hunslett Grange ((though a 1300 IIRC). We bought it at auction. It had a crack in the bottom of the engine sump causing the engine oil to leak into (and subsequently out of) the diff/gearbox housing underneath, due to someone dropping the engine onto the transmission and the oil pickup pipe clouting the casing..
These days I'd probably be able to bodge that quite easily and effectively, but then I thought one should do things properly, so we got another diff/gearbox from a scrappy and arranged with some very large men who had a crane on the back of a Transit, to take the engine out, which was a heavy old lump..
I'd loosened the bolts on one of those donuts, which were very tight, with a 15 foot scaffolding pole on a breaker bar. I forgot the other one.
Show stopper.
One of the very large men reached over and undid it one handed. Think they charged us an extra fiver but nobody felt like arguing with them.
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Running this as a student assignment. I've given them temperature readings for both sides (4 different hub locations, including back of the brake pads) over 25 minutes.
They have to plot graphs, summarise the data, hypothesise causes, and suggest further tests.
I anticipate (and have already heard) some whining along "We don't know about cars and couldn't care less" lines, (but that isn't the point)
Also the usual "We don't understand"
WHAT don't you understand?
EVERYTHING! Just tell us THE ANSWER" jive.
Couldn't do that even if I wanted to, but I do have some more test data.
Wheel spin-down times (Mins) from 2nd gear/2000 rpm, timed from letting the clutch out and going into neutral.until wheel stops. At least 20 second run up time beween spin-downs
Passenger side Driver Side:
4.14 >8.00 (got bored, might have been indefinite)
missed (<0.45) 3.08
0.22 0.41
0.23 0.42
0.21 0.45
0.21 0.41
0.24 0.48
0.23 0.40
0.20 0.35
0.20 0.36
0.20 0.36
0.20 0.35
So, once it "settles down" there is a systematic difference between the sides which might be usable diagnostically, BUT I'm not sure what was happening at the beginning.
Sticky clutch that takes repeated use to fully disengage?
Gearbox oil warming?
Maybe the run-up time between readings wasn't long enough to build up full speed (could probably test effect of varying this)
"I don't understand. Just tell me THE ANSWER".
Edited by edlithgow on 14/12/2019 at 03:00
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Usually you give students work that you know the answer to, so if you dont know why do you expect them to work it out for you lol
What are you trying to do(just inquisitive) and have you explained how it works as I`m not sure I get what your trying to do?
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Usually you give students work that you know the answer to, so if you dont know why do you expect them to work it out for you lol
What are you trying to do(just inquisitive) and have you explained how it works as I`m not sure I get what your trying to do?
Well, its meant to be an example of applying the scientific method to an investigation of a problem..
Usually when you investigate a problem "for real" you don't know THE ANSWER, (at least not for sure) because if you did, you wouldn't need to investigate it.
So, IF you are correct that students are usually given a problem to which the answer is known (I'd guess this is true, certainly here in Taiwan) then they aren't given very authentic problems.
As I said above, there is assymetric heating of the front hubs. On a long run one of them goes over 90 C.
They've got data on the rise in temperature over 25 minutes, pictures and diagrams of the measurement points, and video of temperature measurements being taken. They are supposed to analyse / describe the data they've got, hypothesise what's going on, and suggest further investigation.
I suppose I could post links to the support material, BUT I'm not really after teaching advice here, though I suppose there might be some teachers in the audience.
I'm after technical (as in "Technical matters"", the forum title) suggestions as to why the spin-down times are so much longer for the first one or two runs,
Due to course time constraints, and because I want to fix the car, I'm pre-empting their suggestions (if any) and proceding with further investigation myself. Not ideal, but this does mean I've got more data to give them, and MAY get to know THE ANSWER before they do.
A couple of them saw me doing some of the spin-down runs, and may have worked out what I was up to, so they've had a hint, though perhaps I should have avoided that.
Edited by edlithgow on 14/12/2019 at 11:43
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Incidentally, in case anyone was going to, please
DONT POST SUGGESTED DIAGNOSES for the heating, or at least not yet.
This thread would not be hard to find with a search engine.
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Incidentally, in case anyone was going to, please
DONT POST SUGGESTED DIAGNOSES for the heating, or at least not yet.
This thread would not be hard to find with a search engine.
Wouldn't think of it, let them find out for themselves ;)
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I presume the brakes are not operated during the series of runs - so if the series starts with everything 'cold' perhaps the brake parts gradually warm up and bear a little more until reaching a steady state. Meanwhile your NSF wheel bearing is dragging as before.
Can't think why any other part would tighten up so markedly.
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I presume the brakes are not operated during the series of runs - so if the series starts with everything 'cold' perhaps the brake parts gradually warm up and bear a little more until reaching a steady state. Meanwhile your NSF wheel bearing is dragging as before.
Can't think why any other part would tighten up so markedly.
there are reasons which I wont go into but will happen depending on how the test is being done
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I presume the brakes are not operated during the series of runs - so if the series starts with everything 'cold' perhaps the brake parts gradually warm up and bear a little more until reaching a steady state. Meanwhile your NSF wheel bearing is dragging as before.
Can't think why any other part would tighten up so markedly.
there are reasons which I wont go into but will happen depending on how the test is being done
Why so coy?
And do I need to add anything to the description of how the test was done?
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I presume the brakes are not operated during the series of runs - so if the series starts with everything 'cold' perhaps the brake parts gradually warm up and bear a little more until reaching a steady state. Meanwhile your NSF wheel bearing is dragging as before.
Can't think why any other part would tighten up so markedly.
there are reasons which I wont go into but will happen depending on how the test is being done
Why so coy?
And do I need to add anything to the description of how the test was done?
Incidentally, in case anyone was going to, please
DONT POST SUGGESTED DIAGNOSES for the heating, or at least not yet.
Why so coy?
thats why, it was your request, unless you've changed your mind
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I presume the brakes are not operated during the series of runs - so if the series starts with everything 'cold' perhaps the brake parts gradually warm up and bear a little more until reaching a steady state. Meanwhile your NSF wheel bearing is dragging as before.
Can't think why any other part would tighten up so markedly.
there are reasons which I wont go into but will happen depending on how the test is being done
Why so coy?
And do I need to add anything to the description of how the test was done?
Incidentally, in case anyone was going to, please
DONT POST SUGGESTED DIAGNOSES for the heating, or at least not yet.
Why so coy?
thats why, it was your request, unless you've changed your mind
Ah, OK
I was assuming an explanation for the very different initial runs wouldn't involve directly explaining the cause of the heating, though since I don't really have an explanation (Other than maybe heating causing thermal expansion or grease loss and tightening something up, but I'd expect a more gradual transition from that) I can't be sure.
They are due to submit this Thursday so free discussion should be OK after that, though perhaps the..er..security concerns are a bit parenoid anyway
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I presume the brakes are not operated during the series of runs - so if the series starts with everything 'cold' perhaps the brake parts gradually warm up and bear a little more until reaching a steady state. Meanwhile your NSF wheel bearing is dragging as before.
Can't think why any other part would tighten up so markedly.
Er...the Meanwhile bit was uncalled for (See request above). And I'd bet that isn't the main cause even if its true, though I could easily be wrong
Edited by edlithgow on 15/12/2019 at 00:16
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I presume the brakes are not operated during the series of runs - so if the series starts with everything 'cold' perhaps the brake parts gradually warm up and bear a little more until reaching a steady state. Meanwhile your NSF wheel bearing is dragging as before.
Can't think why any other part would tighten up so markedly.
Er...the Meanwhile bit was uncalled for (See request above). And I'd bet that isn't the main cause even if its true, though I could easily be wrong
Looks like i was wrong (wishfull thinking)
Though though most of the heat seems to come from the brakes, there is still a difference in temperature rise between the two sides with the brakes removed and tied clear (run at 2000 rpm in 2nd gear jacked up with the wheel off and the other wheel lashed to a front towing eye.). See graph via fourth link below. The photos were for the student investigation assignment.
Hub has noticable run-out wobble too.
forumosa-12829.kxcdn.com/uploads/default/optimized...g
forumosa-12829.kxcdn.com/uploads/default/optimized...g
forumosa-12829.kxcdn.com/uploads/default/optimized...g
forumosa-12829.kxcdn.com/uploads/default/original/...g
AFAIK this car (Daihatsu Skywing) is a Taiwan only model so its of course undocumented, but unlike similar Daihatsu models (Charade) for which I have workshop manuals, the hub seems to have what is known in American as a captive rotor. (The brake disk is inboard of the hub)
(http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/VirtualWrench/2010-12-05_184039_rotor.jpg)
There are a few Youtube videos ont nyet showing bearing and or disk replacement for captive rotor versions of the Honda Accord, and it looks a real PITA.
On these, if successful, you seem to end up with the bearing in an inner hub or carrier, which is replaced as a unit. IF it uses a similar design, I’d guess this component won’t be available for the Skywing.
IF I can get the bearing carrier think off, I MIGHT be able to get just the bearing replaced, or maybe a scrap hub assembly might be available.
I'll clean up the brakes a bit (they weren't bad) and try and get some spray grease on the bearing and see how it is after that, but at the moment its looking like the end of the line.
I expected something like this as soon as I replaced the tyres.
Glad I didn't buy new ones.
Edited by edlithgow on 27/12/2019 at 03:55
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I presume the brakes are not operated during the series of runs - so if the series starts with everything 'cold' perhaps the brake parts gradually warm up and bear a little more until reaching a steady state. Meanwhile your NSF wheel bearing is dragging as before.
Can't think why any other part would tighten up so markedly.
Er...the Meanwhile bit was uncalled for (See request above). And I'd bet that isn't the main cause even if its true, though I could easily be wrong
Looks like i was wrong (wishfull thinking)
Though though most of the heat seems to come from the brakes, there is still a difference in temperature rise between the two sides with the brakes removed and tied clear (run at 2000 rpm in 2nd gear jacked up with the wheel off and the other wheel lashed to a front towing eye.). See graph via fourth link below. The photos were for the student investigation assignment.
Hub has noticable run-out wobble too.
forumosa-12829.kxcdn.com/uploads/default/optimized...g
forumosa-12829.kxcdn.com/uploads/default/optimized...g
forumosa-12829.kxcdn.com/uploads/default/optimized...g
forumosa-12829.kxcdn.com/uploads/default/original/...g
AFAIK this car (Daihatsu Skywing) is a Taiwan only model so its of course undocumented, but unlike similar Daihatsu models (Charade) for which I have workshop manuals, the hub seems to have what is known in American as a captive rotor. (The brake disk is inboard of the hub)
(http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/VirtualWrench/2010-12-05_184039_rotor.jpg)
There are a few Youtube videos ont nyet showing bearing and or disk replacement for captive rotor versions of the Honda Accord, and it looks a real PITA.
On these, if successful, you seem to end up with the bearing in an inner hub or carrier, which is replaced as a unit. IF it uses a similar design, I’d guess this component won’t be available for the Skywing.
IF I can get the bearing carrier think off, I MIGHT be able to get just the bearing replaced, or maybe a scrap hub assembly might be available.
I'll clean up the brakes a bit (they weren't bad) and try and get some spray grease on the bearing and see how it is after that, but at the moment its looking like the end of the line.
I expected something like this as soon as I replaced the tyres.
Glad I didn't buy new ones.
If you have a company like SKF bearings out there you will be able to get them made to original spec, I know car restorers that use them for replacing badly rusted bearings and they do it while you wait (according to them) dont know about where you are?
used them myself as they were quicker to get bearings than from motor factors
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IF its like the part in the exploded diagram (last link above) which I think is a Honda Accord captive rotor setup, then I doubt it'll be available from general bearing suppliers, but one MIGHT be able to get the bearing pressed out of that bearing carrier thngy that is itself press-fit into the disk, and IF it is a standard bearing, get another one pressed in.
Its a gratuitously horrible design to maintain, which wouldn't bother Taiwanese since they don't maintain things. .
I dunno exactly how the Skywing is put together though, since this bit seems unlike the Charade, and undocumented.
This probably makes a scrap hub the best bet, though a longshot.
I've sourced BL car bearings in the UK (in Leeds) from bearing suppliers that were actually FREE, though a BIG chunk of change from Appleyard Parts
Told a rather elaborate telephone tale of algal filtration plant (company did exist) , Mr McLusky, visiting engineer from Weir Pumps, and seized impeller shafts, and sent "The Lad" (Me, myself), playing 2 parts like Alec Guiness) round to collect, armed with the bearing code phoned-in earlier, which fortunately turned out to be a standard item .
Was hoping to scam a trade price (which IIRC made a bigger difference in those distant days) but they said "small order, gratis"
Bit embarrassing. Maybe they saw through the drama and were humoring me.
Here it'd be difficult. May well exist but finding it and communicating would be tricky, and they will never, ever deal with non-trade customers.
I doubt any English speaking Taiwanese I know would be able or willing to make such enquiries.
Edited by edlithgow on 27/12/2019 at 14:35
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