Generalities are dangerous. Over the last 40-50 years many previously under-developed countries have massively improved their manufacturing capability.
Stage 1 - the journey starts using very low cost labour to reduce costs. They also need to develop their domestic market where price is a major issue. Often products are copies of European or US - albeit without the quality of materials or precision.
Stage 2 - they start signing joint ventures and licencing deals with first world companies. Quality increases - as do costs as local economies start to grow rapidly.
Stage 3 - they have caught up with first world manufacturers. Prices are still a little below the competition so products are perceived as good value.
Stage 4 - far east companies move ahead in product quality. Prices are close to European levels. They have a culture of continual improvement and are responsive to change - unlike some European manufacturers who can be very complacent.
This simply development model can easily be applied to cars - Japan and South Korea have followed precisely this development path. And we may now be seeing the Chinese making inroads, albeit presentlt at about stage 2.
I suspect this simplistic view of life also extends to TV's, computers, household appliances etc etc.
What does this mean for tyres - ditchfinder is a reasonable term to use for those at stage 1. By stage 2 (Pirelli?) they will be starting to perform adequately. Whilst the best are still European, in 5-10 years the ditchfinders may have morphed into good performers at a reasonable price.
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It is only natural to want to cut costs when it comes to motoring. But, given the tyre is the only point of contact between your car and the road, that is one of the last places you should be looking to save a few pounds.
Looking online out of curiousity for an example of the size of tyre contact patch, i found US piece regarding the Ford Crown Victoria used by the police. This has a fairly chunky 225/60 r16 tyre and between all four, there is 147 square inches in touch with the road. To put that into perspective, the car's actual footprint would be around 16400 square inches.
Each to their own, but there is absolutely no way i'd buy cheap tyres of a brand i'd never heard of. Unless they had been tested in carefully controlled circumstances and found to be the equal of known brands. It just isn't worth the risk.
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Once made the mistake of letting National Tyres sell me a pair of "Dunlops" to match the ones already on all four corners (from new) on a company car about 1991/2 I guess.
Went to collect it and it had their own brand tyres on the back............ "they are Dunlops sir, but they brand them for us".........Like a fool I didn't kick-off.
Biggest motoring mistake I have ever made from a safety point of view, (thank goodness it was a company car), I couldn't wear them out fast enough.
I don't remember where they were made, but they were shocking.
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I can tell from the ride straight away but some Kuhmo are made in China so they are bound to pick up a few tips from them
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Each to their own, but there is absolutely no way i'd buy cheap tyres of a brand i'd never heard of. Unless they had been tested in carefully controlled circumstances and found to be the equal of known brands. It just isn't worth the risk.
Each to their own, exactly. If your driving can be urgent, motorway in heavy rain, you may need to take this into account. Mine isn't, nor do I test the envelope of safety when driving. That doesn't mean that I buy the cheapest tyres, and I do treat Chinese ones with suspicion.
For a long time I have tended towards Avons as a reliable middle-price brand. However for the last few years they have come from Serbia, which may or may not be good news. They still seem to be OK for me.
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As long as the design is sound and the manufacturing plant does the job properly, I don't care where goods come from. That being said, I think there are a lot of Chinese owned and designed makes of tyre that have a poor rep for performance in damp conditions, often because they are very hard wearing (to save on cost), or are good on performance but wear very quickly because they are soft. As yet, not many are decent in the wet, and I personally would not trust them in winter.
Like many other products, I agree that this may change as they develop their brands, just as they did with electronics, and as they are beginning to do with cars themselves.
At the moment, they are too much of a risk for me, given the tyre is the only think keeping my car from crashing in poor weather. I'd rather pay the extra for the piece of mind of decades of R&D. Safety shouldn't be a big compromise, especially if it 'only' costs £100 or so extra over a few years to be safer.
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If your driving can be urgent, motorway in heavy rain, you may need to take this into account. Mine isn't, nor do I test the envelope of safety when driving.
With all respect, that is falling into the age old and deeply flawed logic of "i don't drive fast, i am a good driver, so i don't need good quality tyres". The logic is flawed because you can't control all that happens around you on the road, and you certainly can't anticipate all that could happen. There are so many reason you may suddenly have to make an emergency manoeuvre on the road, be it swerving or braking. I have read plenty of tyre tests, and the biggest gap in the performance of good quality tyres over poor ones, is in exactly this type of scenario, particularly in the wet. For the vast majority of my driving time, i am behind the wheel of my 70bhp Caddy van doing 50mph on single carriageway roads, so driving fast, or urgently, simply is not a factor. I'd just rather spend a little more on tyres i trust.
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<< I'd just rather spend a little more on tyres i trust. >>
That's fine by me. It's approaching 60 years since I took my test, and so far I haven't been seriously discomfited by any driving emergency caused by tyres. We could take precautions to avoid all kinds of nasty scenarios, and we all choose what scenarios are likely enough to affect us. I consider the extra cost of super-quality tyres to be unnecessary expenditure - I may regret that choice, but it's my choice of risk.
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<< I'd just rather spend a little more on tyres i trust. >>
That's fine by me. It's approaching 60 years since I took my test, and so far I haven't been seriously discomfited by any driving emergency caused by tyres. We could take precautions to avoid all kinds of nasty scenarios, and we all choose what scenarios are likely enough to affect us. I consider the extra cost of super-quality tyres to be unnecessary expenditure - I may regret that choice, but it's my choice of risk.
Is a cautious driver with a cheap set of Chinese tyres doing 60mph more dangerous than a more 'gung-ho' driver with a set of Bridgestones doing 70mph?
I've had everything on my cars from remoulds to premium makes depending upon my budget at the time, and you very quickly get a feel for any tyre and drive accordingly.
A Dacia Duster isn't going to handle as well as a BMW M3. Should we be advising folk not to buy a Dacia? A Fiesta 1.0 isn't going to accelerate/brake/handle as well as a Fiesta ST. Should we advise folk not to drive the 1.0?
ANY car with ANY make of tyre on it is perfectly safe... It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
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<< I'd just rather spend a little more on tyres i trust. >>
That's fine by me. It's approaching 60 years since I took my test, and so far I haven't been seriously discomfited by any driving emergency caused by tyres. We could take precautions to avoid all kinds of nasty scenarios, and we all choose what scenarios are likely enough to affect us. I consider the extra cost of super-quality tyres to be unnecessary expenditure - I may regret that choice, but it's my choice of risk.
Is a cautious driver with a cheap set of Chinese tyres doing 60mph more dangerous than a more 'gung-ho' driver with a set of Bridgestones doing 70mph?
I've had everything on my cars from remoulds to premium makes depending upon my budget at the time, and you very quickly get a feel for any tyre and drive accordingly.
A Dacia Duster isn't going to handle as well as a BMW M3. Should we be advising folk not to buy a Dacia? A Fiesta 1.0 isn't going to accelerate/brake/handle as well as a Fiesta ST. Should we advise folk not to drive the 1.0?
ANY car with ANY make of tyre on it is perfectly safe... It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
It very much depends upon which Bridgestone tyres they are using! I used one fantastic set of RE720s on my old Micra, whilst the OEM tyres (ER30s) on my current 13yo Mazda3 were horrendous near being replaced, especially in the wet. Normally solid makes can have off days (or years) producing less than decent tyres.
At the moment, most Chinese makes of tyre don't have the money or R&D experience base behind them that the established brands do, but this will undoubtedly change as they gain experience and market share.
At present, though, I still would not put my trust in them egenerally, but then I always check the reviews of any tyre I'm considering to make sure they will be safe and good performers. After all, they are the only contact with the road. Better in my view to buy a cheaper car (less gizmos, not compormise on safety) and more on tyres and maintenance.
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ANY car with ANY make of tyre on it is perfectly safe... It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
Sorry, simply cannot agree. Maybe your interpretation of 'safe' is different to mine.
Some years ago, I acquired a 2003 Mazda MX5 which had been fitted with new Chinese Infinity 05 tyres on the rear by the previous owner, 1,500 miles before. Being a rear wheel drive car, these tyres proved lethal in the wet, regardless of road surface. At under 30mph on leaving a roundabout, the gentlest press of the accelerator twitched the back end, sent the front towards the rear wheels of an HGV. The car bounced off, and completed its 360 pirouette, coming to rest close to a concrete wall.
It wasn't the first time the rear had twitched in the wet, and the rubbish wet grip quality is underlined by many on the tyre reviews website and has a wet rating of 31% - the third lowest. Changed for Hankook tyres, the transformation in the wet was amazing, was. like the proverbial to a blanket.
This WAS very much a case of a poor quality tyre, the hard compound not simply suited to wet conditions. found in the UK, Your blame of the driver is well off the mark.
Manufacturers spend time and money finding an optimum tyre, but replace with cheap mediocre alternatives can and does compromise safety. No different to buying cheap replacement brake pads and discs, and wondering why the car still cant stop on a sixpence.
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It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
Sorry, simply cannot agree. Maybe your interpretation of 'safe' is different to mine.
I think what was being suggested is that drivers adapt their style of driving to their vehicle. Some will explore its limits, others are more restrained and never push the envelope. The first category may well go too far and represent a hazard, perhaps on almost any tyres. But that does not mean that every driver should use maximum-grip tyres - the extra margin of safety may be surplus to requirements.
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It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
Sorry, simply cannot agree. Maybe your interpretation of 'safe' is different to mine.
I think what was being suggested is that drivers adapt their style of driving to their vehicle. Some will explore its limits, others are more restrained and never push the envelope. The first category may well go too far and represent a hazard, perhaps on almost any tyres. But that does not mean that every driver should use maximum-grip tyres - the extra margin of safety may be surplus to requirements.
If a tyre cannot handle a slow speed turn at a roundabout or suchlike without the car doing a 180, then patently those tyres are unsafe. The last time I looked, no tyre said 'not for rear wheeled drive vehicles' or 'only for pootling only'.
Vehicles need tyres that provide adeqaute grip in different weather conditions. Obviously summer tyres aren't designed to work in snow/ice, similarly track day tyres for specific dry or wet conditions cannot be used on the public road and say so explicitly on the blurb.
More importantly, tyres should work well not just when new with a full 7 to 8mm of tread left. Quick wear rate is one thing (but can be managed), but poor grip, especially in the wet, is quite another. Tyres should be capable of been driven at reasonable, road legal (but safe) speeds and not if the driver were in a car from the early 1900s.
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ANY car with ANY make of tyre on it is perfectly safe... It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
What about in an emergency...say it's raining, doing 65mph in middle lane of motorway, someone pull in front of you without warning...you brake sharply...the Bridgestones just about stop you in time...the cheap tyres make you stop a few meters further and you crash
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ANY car with ANY make of tyre on it is perfectly safe... It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
What about in an emergency...say it's raining, doing 65mph in middle lane of motorway, someone pull in front of you without warning...you brake sharply...the Bridgestones just about stop you in time...the cheap tyres make you stop a few meters further and you crash
Or even worse, because they don't stop the car quickly, you have to swerve to avoid hitting the vehicle in front (despite being a normally adequate distance behind in compliance with the Highway Code) and get wiped out by other vehicles or causing a major pile-up, possibly killing many people.
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<< What about in an emergency...say it's raining, doing 65mph in middle lane of motorway, someone pull in front of you without warning...you brake sharply...the Bridgestones just about stop you in time...the cheap tyres make you stop a few meters further and you crash >>
There are some situations no tyre can do much about. A few years ago I spun my 205 into the Armco on a reverse curve I had driven many times before, at about the usual speed of 35-40. At the time there was very light rain after several days of dry weather, but I am sure the main cause was road work including tree felling - meaning chainsaws and some spillages of oil, or diesel perhaps.
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There are some situations no tyre can do much about. A few years ago I spun my 205 into the Armco on a reverse curve I had driven many times before, at about the usual speed of 35-40. At the time there was very light rain after several days of dry weather, but I am sure the main cause was road work including tree felling - meaning chainsaws and some spillages of oil, or diesel perhaps.
Andrew, I would argue you could have done something about that - you say "there was very light rain after several days of dry weather", so you should not have taken the bend at the "usual" (presume dry) speed?
Sanctimonious mode off.
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ANY car with ANY make of tyre on it is perfectly safe... It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
Not so. I had some Kumho KH27 tyres on my Ford Ka, almost brand new. I twice lost control on a roundabout. On the first occasion the car spun round 360 degrees and onto grass. The second time I was pootling around behind other cars and the rear end lost grip and starting sliding until I used the steering to correct the skid. I'm not a fast or enthusiastic driver and those tyres were downright dangerous. I replaced them ASAP.
These days I only use the premium brands to be safe, even though I know most second tier brands are just as good.
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ANY car with ANY make of tyre on it is perfectly safe... It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
Not so. I had some Kumho KH27 tyres on my Ford Ka, almost brand new. I twice lost control on a roundabout. On the first occasion the car spun round 360 degrees and onto grass. The second time I was pootling around behind other cars and the rear end lost grip and starting sliding until I used the steering to correct the skid. I'm not a fast or enthusiastic driver and those tyres were downright dangerous. I replaced them ASAP.
These days I only use the premium brands to be safe, even though I know most second tier brands are just as good.
I remember seeing your video clip of the roundabout incident. Hairy moments indeed. Did Kumho ever get back to you with an explanation?
Edited by Engineer Andy on 26/09/2019 at 18:29
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ANY car with ANY make of tyre on it is perfectly safe... It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
Not so. I had some Kumho KH27 tyres on my Ford Ka, almost brand new. I twice lost control on a roundabout. On the first occasion the car spun round 360 degrees and onto grass. The second time I was pootling around behind other cars and the rear end lost grip and starting sliding until I used the steering to correct the skid. I'm not a fast or enthusiastic driver and those tyres were downright dangerous. I replaced them ASAP.
These days I only use the premium brands to be safe, even though I know most second tier brands are just as good.
I remember seeing your video clip of the roundabout incident. Hairy moments indeed. Did Kumho ever get back to you with an explanation?
I've always found Kumho tyres to be good quality for the price. But then again different cars handled differently even on the same tyres.
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ANY car with ANY make of tyre on it is perfectly safe... It's the driver, not the equipment that can be the problem.
Not so. I had some Kumho KH27 tyres on my Ford Ka, almost brand new. I twice lost control on a roundabout. On the first occasion the car spun round 360 degrees and onto grass. The second time I was pootling around behind other cars and the rear end lost grip and starting sliding until I used the steering to correct the skid. I'm not a fast or enthusiastic driver and those tyres were downright dangerous. I replaced them ASAP.
These days I only use the premium brands to be safe, even though I know most second tier brands are just as good.
I remember seeing your video clip of the roundabout incident. Hairy moments indeed. Did Kumho ever get back to you with an explanation?
I was unable to find contact details. Another reason to avoid them.
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