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Scrappage schemes and Bangernomics - meldrew

We have a 16 year old car that only does a couple of thousand miles a year but is very handy for runiing to the tip and carting grubby grandchildren about. It is one owner and never failed an MoT but has just cost me £500 for brakes and an electrical sensor too. On the one hand that is probably not too bad for a year's motoring but I feel the end may be nigh!

Does anyone in the trade know of a likely return of scrappage schemes? Maybe I just put it in Autotrader and cut my losses both current and future. It does have a 12 month MoT

Decisions, decisions....

Scrappage schemes and Bangernomics - oldroverboy.

www.kia.com/uk/new-cars/offers/picanto-offers/scra.../

Scrappage schemes and Bangernomics - Andrew-T

If you spend money to keep a solid car in good running order, it seems to me that thinking of spending more to get a better one may be false economy. You know the quirks of a familiar car, but it may take time to come to terms with another. If the car is showing signs of becoming less solid, that's a different matter. My mantra is that it's usually feasible to keep the mechanicals going, but if the bodywork needs to be held together, that is the time to scrap.

Scrappage schemes and Bangernomics - SLO76
You can usually get a bigger discount for not trading in at all than you’ll get with any current scrappage scheme. New cars are in my opinion horrendously overpriced and a good well cared for used 5-8yr old car at a fraction of the price is a far more sensible option for low mileage users. What is the current car by the way?
Scrappage schemes and Bangernomics - meldrew

Sensible advice thanks. Current car is a 90k mile one owner BMW compact hatchback. Bodywork is galvanised and totally rust free. I suppose both the car and I are feeling tired!

Scrappage schemes and Bangernomics - focussed

"We have a 16 year old car that only does a couple of thousand miles a year but is very handy for running to the tip and carting grubby grandchildren about"

Why spend money to buy a newer car? No point if that's all it does.

Scrappage schemes and Bangernomics - John F

At that annual mileage I can't see why it shouldn't last another 16yrs. It would then have done fewer than 130,000m and still be much younger than my non-galvanised TR7. If you sold it now and replaced it with a much newer car, your depreciation cost per mile would probably be well over 50p for the next few years (cars usually depreciate much faster than £1000 per annum) plus the lost opportunity cost of putting your saved 'investment' money in a 'wasting asset'. Plus having to take it for an unnecessary annual 'service' and oil change to maintain its retail value. Your repair bill translates to only 25p per mile for this one year. As your car has almost fully depreciated, this cost per mile is now negligible for as long as you keep it. So I suggest treating it and your tired self to a rejuvenating valeting!

Scrappage schemes and Bangernomics - Engineer Andy

I agree with those previously saying that for a long-held car, unless its physicall deteriorating to a significant degree, then most can be kept on the road over (say) a 5 year period for far less than the cost of an equivalent new car. In this case, as long as its always been well maintained (I presume its a petrol engine - which one - the 2.5V6?), then most of the wear and tear stuff will relate to less expensive items.

It may also depend upon the quality and cost of the workshop that maintains it - a main dealer may eventually not want to look after it, plus the cost of repairs will be high due to the labour charge, whereas a good indie might be able to make keeping the car viable for longer by changing less for servicing and maintenance/repairs, even when BMW parts are used. Note that at this age, BMW have no obligation (10 years after that car went out of productiion) to make any spare parts, but hopefully decently quality OEM parts would suffice, hence why keeping the engine well maintained (regular decent quality oil, filters, etc) is essential to prolonging its life and reducing the likelihood of expensive engine-related failures.

My neighbour had one of these and had to sell/scrap it because he couldn't afford to keep paying out for all the repairs. It often does depend on your income and general outgoings whether you can afford bills like new brakes, suspension and steering parts, etc every other year or so when its into its teens.

Scrappage schemes and Bangernomics - The Gingerous One

If you're prepared to be a bit creative with getting parts for it in advance of them being required (i.e. when they're cheap NOS) then you can keep the costs down.

People would say I was mad for buying a Rover 600 for 400 quid last year, then paying 350 for all the belts & tensioners to be changed (it's a diesel) and then later on forking out 300 for new struts supplied and fitted then another 300 for the MoT.

Struts I found on e-bay, pair of ex-factory unused for 150 quid. With new shocks and springs the handling was transformed!

But at least this year I won't have to replace the belts nor the front suspension, so my cost this year has been less (so far, just as the MoT loooms).

I do 10k/year but I also use it for travelling to another work site c.10 times/year which gets me 180 quid in expenses each time. Less 60 quid for the diesel gives me 120 to cover the cost.

So I am probably making money on my motoring at the minute....but mine will need the brakes doing soon!

Scrappage schemes and Bangernomics - gordonbennet

The family Compact hatch was pretty well trouble free apart from the engine, but that was the Diesel and they all seem to go wrong sooner or later, the family one started making ominous top end noises at around 130k, this despite it having really regular oil changes from 45k miles.

I agree with just running it for years, keep the brakes well lubed (though to be fair German brakes seem to stand salt ingress better than many others), and don't neglect the drum inside disc parking brake either, but apart from the front suspension bushes which are prone to failure these are quite robust little cars....but lube that rear wiper spindle up because they seize solid (due in no small way to the washer jet passing through the centre of the pivot) and the gears chew themselves to pieces, no spare parts its a complete new linkage @ £££ with used parts in short supply for the obvious reason..

Edited by gordonbennet on 23/09/2018 at 11:07