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Far from an expert but owned a few now.
Its the very base model, which is fine in itseld but wants to be cheaper than this IMHO because it will not be an easy sell on, its ok if you are definately a long term owner because there is less to go wrong.
Now bear with me because this might be completely accurate and build dates can change things, LC 2 and 3 had standard rear axles with lockable diffs, all models have full time 4WD with lockable centre diff, higher spec models gain limited slip read diff, top range models have full all round tractions control.
OK so the 2/3 are simpler, the LC5 which i have is a more complicated machine having full air suspension and with the stability controls is a much more controlled car on wet roads, most buyers want LC3 or 4 as it does away with rear air suspension (don't for one minute think these are as troublesome as Range Rovers with air, they are not) and swapping rear airbags is simpler than changing a rear spring, but they do have height sensors whch can play up, not cheap if they go wrong.
Also LC5 has full touch screen satnav (up to date new discs available from several sources, no need for main dealer) but this screen alos controls climate etc, so if it goes wrong a new one is very expensive but an alternative has apprently been found, androd based, how that is i don't know.
OK, by now you'll have guessed i would suggest a 3/4/5 model instead, with toys etc increasing as you go up the range.
Gearbox, earlier 2/3 models maye well have the old 4 speed box from the previous Colorado, nothing wrong with that, its easier to service and has a dipstick (that's how you'll be able to tell whch box is in) so drain and refills are much easier than the later box, however this box requiresan oil change now and again, its filled with standard dinosaur dexron, simple DIY but it does need an oil chnage.
Later 5 speed box is supposed not to need on oil change as its filled with WS (world standard) dexron 6 synthetic, these boxes appear to be bomb proof but obviousaly me being me i have changed the oil in mine, which is not as simple because the dipstick has been done away with an oil checking is done by a level plug in the bottom of the sump but has to be carried out at a certai temperature and filling is awkward and needs an oil pump of some sort...easy enough DIY for a bodger like me so anyone who doesn't mind getting dirty can do it.
Props are both greasable and if neglected you will feel a thump in the transmission a few seconds after you come to a halt.
Righto generally these are rugged vehicles, the front axle is indpendent with drive shafts and these boots can spit and leak (history if this on the one at Raunds), they can be regreased and i have never chanaged one, the rear axle is live, on the LC2 there will be a solenoid unit on the axle casing which is the diff lock, these can suffer corrosion and fail to work completely and untill you get the thing stuck you won't find out if it works or not, you can see if the dash light works by pressing the rear diff lock switch and mving the vehicle in a stright line only, and then see the light come on and then switch off to see the light go off again, this should prove the system but unless you jack one side up (and its full time 4wd so you might not be able to tell from jacking only one wheel up) you won't know for sure, its an expensive part.
The vehicle is easy to service DIY, cambelt on the 3.0D4D will take you about 1 hour first time you do it, easiest cambelt change i've done, kit less than £100 so not a deal breaker and at 170k that one is due (every 90k).
This vehicle needs an oil change every year or 10k, i do mine twice a year...are you reading this JohnF :-)...and i always inspect the oil pick up strainer in the sump which is just above the drain plug so visible (camera/endoscope best so avoiding an eye filling drip) to view, these engines up to 2008 were fitted with copper injector seals which can leak and allow blow by which carbonises the oil and blocks the intake leading to total engine failure, many cars were pulled back in and the seals chanegd to alloy but unless there is a history of this being done its best to assume the worse.
Sump holds 7.75 litres, i usually buy 5W40 full synthetic when its on offer, but EXOL are selling 10W40 Diesel specific semi synth for £43 for a 20 litre drum and considering how frequently i change the oil that will be going in next change in the spring, i bought a dozen oil flters on special offer, the filter is huge and quite expensive.
Denzo injectors are not long lived according to some and some say 100k miles is enough for them, i had mine checked and all is well at 101k, but i do run Millers and dash of 2t oil with each full up, so your guess is as good as mine, 4 new injectors and fitting and you won't have much change from £1500.
EGR valve can get clogged, easy if messy job to remove and clean the whole intake system.
Twin batteries on these, as cheap from Toyota as most places, mine had 2 new ones just before i bought it, receipt for some £150 in the book pack.
Underbody is where you should look first on these, take something to lay on and you can slide straight under, check chassis (for damage as rust), especially at the back end up where the towbar will bolt on, rear axle casing, check the front drive shafts and rubber boots, check especially the inner sills of the body itself, they get a hell of battering from the elements and at both ends they can actually perfortate right through.
Righto, this particular vehicle, the MOT history is not making good reading to me, it reads of neglected vehicle but to others and you it might sound ok.
I'd be far happier lookng at either of these on ebay 25380768722 323411998524, but no harm in having a poke nose at several so you see the difference between a good and bad one.
Always with any 4x4, the first place you look is underneath, unfortunately that's often the last place you look and 5 minutes later you're back in your getting away as quickly as possible, i had exactly this after driving all the way to Harrogate to buy an 'excellent' 100 series Amazon from a dealer, never even opend the door, got under the back and shoved me mitt straight through a box setion, 5 minutes later i was on my way home.
As you probably know i'm in Kettering and i'm at home today, usually i have Mondays off but my shft pattern has come round so i'm at work tomorrow, if you can get to Kettering today or next thursday friday mon or tues(off work all 4 days but work sat and sun) i'll gladly show you what to look for on my own 120 Cruiser and you can see for yourself what hopefully a good one should feel sound and drive like.
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