Toyota Starlet - Passenger side dip only failed - full works

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Tue 4 Jul 2017 21:09
Toyota Starlet - Passenger side dip only failed - full works - chindu

I have a 1996 Toyota Starlet which the passenger dip headlight has failed on. High beam is unaffected I've swapped the bulb between sides and that's definately not at fault. The fuse is also good and I've done some basic diagnostics with a multimeter.

Does anyone know where the single Red/Yellow and single Red/White from the full/low beam switch the on the steering column switch splits into the seperate feeds to the left and right headlamps. I have no continuity between the two headlamp connectors on that cable.

I presume it goes down the inside of drivers wing and somewhere splits into 2 cables at a connector block but don;t want to start hacking looms apart if someone can point me in the right direction first....

Thanks.

Edited by chindu on 04/07/2017 at 21:10

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Tue 4 Jul 2017 21:27
Toyota Starlet - Passenger side dip only failed - full works - gordonbennet

No idea, but if no joy finding the break i'd be inclined to run a separate wire to the bulb connector plug from the nearest point of power that you can find in the correct line, after the relay if it is relayed, you can always slip an inline fuse into your by pass wire so should there be a fault somewhere that fuse will save the day.

Are you perchance watching the 1400 mile (yes thats right) Starlet on ebay auction at the moment, it's showroom condition.

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Tue 4 Jul 2017 21:53
Toyota Starlet - Passenger side dip only failed - full works - Wackyracer

Not sure if the Starlet is the same but, my old Toyota used to switch between the full/dip beam on the ground, not sure if that will shed any light (excuse the pun) on what might be the problem.

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Tue 4 Jul 2017 22:00
Toyota Starlet - Passenger side dip only failed - full works - elekie&a/c doctor

Absolutely.You need to be careful here.Many jap cars of this era switched the earth supply to the bulbs rather than the conventional positive supply switching arrangement..Also a car of this age may have a dim/dip set up which complicates the circuit even more.Please do not be tempted to "jump across" any circuits ,this could lead to more serious problems.Get the system checked properly.

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Wed 5 Jul 2017 21:19
Toyota Starlet - Passenger side dip only failed - full works - chindu

Thanks for the replies.

One side of dip and full beam are permanently at 12v from the fuse box (one fuse for each side of car) . Earth (ground) is diverted to the appropriate filament by the headlamp switch on the steering column down a single wire which then splits to each side. What I can't see easily is where the split occurs. I'm loathed to take it to the main dealer at £73p/h ex for what might well be a corroded connector block.

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Wed 5 Jul 2017 23:33
Toyota Starlet - Passenger side dip only failed - full works - galileo

Thanks for the replies.

One side of dip and full beam are permanently at 12v from the fuse box (one fuse for each side of car) . Earth (ground) is diverted to the appropriate filament by the headlamp switch on the steering column down a single wire which then splits to each side. What I can't see easily is where the split occurs. I'm loathed to take it to the main dealer at £73p/h ex for what might well be a corroded connector block.

If there is a car electrical specialist they may well be cheaper than the main dealer - our local one is first class at fixing electrics, long established with grey-haired guys who have probably worked on most makes and models.

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Thu 13 Jul 2017 09:53
Toyota Starlet - Passenger side dip only failed - full works - chindu

Just thought I'd update this in case it's of use to anyone else. I asked around and was told that the H4 connectors tend to fail. I used a pin into the wires the loom side of the connector block to check continuity and it was fine there. The old connector block wire was showing signs of overheating (blackened copper) so confirmed that seemed to be at fault. Got an H4 connector block from Halfords and used inline heat shrink crimps to replace the old connector block and is working fine again now.

Hope this helps someone.

*** UPDATE ***

Just to stress that I cut and recrimped 1 wire from the old block to the new at a time to ensure full and low didn't end up crossed!

Edited by chindu on 13/07/2017 at 09:54

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