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Rust in Cars - scot22

Even I have come to understand that there are many variables in being able to evaluate cars. However, is there a source of any data on frequency of rust problems with differing makers' car bodywork. ? Other than hoping individual review make reference, and not relevant to a brand new car.

Rust in Cars - RT

Even I have come to understand that there are many variables in being able to evaluate cars. However, is there a source of any data on frequency of rust problems with differing makers' car bodywork. ? Other than hoping individual review make reference, and not relevant to a brand new car.

Somewhere on the interweb is a website that analyses the reasons cars fail MoT tests - by brand and by model for some models - I recall it's analysed by age as well so it may be possible to get what you seek there - I've no idea where the website is or what it's called, though.

Rust in Cars - SLO76
There was a good article on this in Car Mechanics a few issues back. They sent a team round scrap yards to look at bodies of scrapped cars.

French brands Peugeot and Renault were deemed to be the best at resisting body rot in general with Mazda coming dead last which I agree with looking at the rot on relatively young 3's 6's and MX5's. Shame the French don't share Mazda's record on reliability though.

Merc were terrible in the mid 90's to early 2000's and VW dropped the ball with the Mk V Golf. 90's Ford's rot like it's the 70's all over again too.

Rust in Cars - brum

More of a problem is rusting suspension components, poor quality brittle plastics fitted externally, and poor quality wire in looms (insulation that goes stiff/brittle/cracks and then fails).

Rust in Cars - Engineer Andy

If I recall correctly, HY stated that, at least for the earler versions, the MX-5 was designed to last only 7 years and not for our 'salty' environment (people living near the cost, or dealing with annual road salting in winter) - you have to wonder how they dealt with the same in Japan, which presumably has MX-5 owners living near the coast or in areas that get snow in winter).

My Mazda3 has been fine thus far, though it appears some other mk1s have not been so lucky. My previous car, a K11 Nissan Micra (96N reg) had failed its MOT at 10yo due to rust around the seatbelt mounting point, which again, appears to be quite common in cars generally, as that point is often around weak points near corners of door openings or wheel arches. The front cross-member was also getting corroded quite a lot at the time as well.

I'd pay good money for a car that has really good long-term corrosion resistance (better than galvanising) generally in addition to great reliability, including that of the exhaust system. Not sure if I'd go for an underbody car treatment, especially if it was expensive and possibly restricted access for servicing/maintenance to certain items.

Far better for cars to last a long time and just get replacement parts for wear-and tear, but of course that doesn't suit the manufacturers who need constant churn of sales, nor governments, who want all the extra tax revenue from car sales, and who seem to think that a 'throw-away' society is far better than a -make-do-and-mend' one because new stuff is always more efficient/environmentally-friendly. They conveniently forget all the costs (monetarily [including fuel costs] and to the environment) of:

  • Mining the raw materials to make whole vehicles rather than a few spares;
  • Manufacturing/haulage/storage/marketing costs of the same;
  • Recycling/scrapping/binning whole vehicles rather than individual parts.

There's no good reason why cars, like PCs, can't be 'upgraded' for an amount of time whilst keeping the same structure and some components: some could be deliberatly over-engineered to both last a very long time and be capable of taking additional loads if required.

If vehicles were made so that the vast majority of parts could be very easily replaced (e.g. light bulbs, external belts, pumps [big issue for me - my car's PS pump may need replacement, and its location means the labour cost will be at least 5x as much as the part]), then that would go some way to help. Doubt it will happen though - too many vested interests who want to keep the status quo. Its probably why car companies are headed up by accountants and other financial people rather than engineers.

Rust in Cars - scot22

Many thanks for these helpful and well informed posts. I have posted many times how much I appreciate and value people taking the time and trouble to post. I will continue to appreciate and value.

Rust in Cars - gordonbennet

Despite some people believing rust is a thing of the past, its still rearing its ugly head.

It doesn't matter to the increasing number of motorists in this country who treat their cars like white goods, use them don't care for them and replace them when they fail on something need a bit f costly maintenance or start to look too tatty.

And that is the problem, because there is so little demand for reasonably simple quality vehicles that last years and years, its not a business model for many makers, you can buy such vehicles, Toyota until last year still made the 70 series Landcruiser that had been in production for some 30 years, simple durable and rugged, but no demand here in Britain for anything like that, it was the height of anti fashion so who apart from a few oddsods like me would buy one.

People don't want to care for their vehicles, too many can't be bothered to check the oil let alone rinse the salt off a few times in the winter and then clean it properly underbody around April.

Good point about suspension component rust, again no one's bothered, by the time a car is 5 years old its regarded as too old for the new car buying public to be seen in, and with our rocket ship depreciation it could be argued that unless you plan to keep it long term yourself why would anyone bother to make the vehicle last, and to add to that why would anyone pay the premium the quality vehicle would cost when its not the new car buyer who'se going to reap the benefit.

Its a throwaway society, white goods, clothes, cars, lovers husbands and wives, no longer shiny new or providing the right kudos, out you go.

Rust in Cars - John F

I'd pay good money for a car that has really good long-term corrosion resistance (better than galvanising) generally in addition to great reliability, including that of the exhaust system.

So would a lot of other people who prefer to 'buy the best and make it last'. I am surprised no-one makes a smaller all-aluminium car than my nearly 11yr old Audi A8 which I bought nicely run-in at 8yrs/49,000m old and intend to keep indefinitely.

SWMBO's 16yr old Ford Focus, our well-engineered run-about is probably still only on the road thanks to my triennial underbody servicing; derusting and painting suspension bits, door bottom edges and greasing brake pipes, things a garage so-called 'service' would never do.

Rust in Cars - madf

SWMBO's 16yr old Ford Focus, our well-engineered run-about is probably still only on the road thanks to my triennial underbody servicing; derusting and painting suspension bits, door bottom edges and greasing brake pipes, things a garage so-called 'service' would never do.

Our 2003 Yaris D4d is still running fine, bodily 100% no rust and original exhaust system. Undercoated at rear with Dinitrol/Waxoyl and brake pipes also in 2006 - and occasionally touched up..

Never touched doors.

I repaint exhaust every 3-4 years...still perfect..

Washed every 8-10 weeks looks as new. Alloy wheels have flaking paint - well known issue..

Rust in Cars - scot22

Yes - sadly it is a throw away society which appears to worship the god of growth in production. Produce - produce - produce.

More energy should be focussed on making better quality rather than inferior limited life design.

Let's dream of a car produced for function rather than image and made to last.

Rust in Cars - gordonbennet

There have been functional designs Scot.

Volvo 1 2 7 and 9 series, especially the estates for their all purpose practicality are one such and many still out there in superb condition, and arguably S60 and V70's whilst not in the same simple durable mould are good long termers so long as looked after, we won't see their like again.

Buyers are fashion following animals, the 3 box design is now old hat and the modern car buyer wants all the electronics and toys, and IMHO take this NCAP rating lark too much at face value not helped by 5th gear style staged crash tests.

Many makers came up with their best long life designs in the 80's and 90's IMHO, some of which still made up to about 2005, i suggest that many of the cars made in this sweet spot will still, providing they have been looked after, be giving good reliable service long after their replacements have been scrapped through being uneconomic to fix what should have been fairly simple problems made horrendously difficult...eg parking brake cost to refurb £200 tops on a normal car, could be 5 to 8 times that to fully refurb an electric parking brake, and lets not even think about hell's own automated manual gearbox or DPF.

This cost to fix thing is odd too, so many people only look at their car for its selling or write off price, which isn't how vehicles should be viewed, a known reliable car might only be worth £800 to sell and if it costs £400 to fix a major problem will often be passed on and a new £299 a month cloned eurobox takes its place, but that £400 might well have bought another 2 years reliable use for the cost of 6 weeks or so of leasing/PCP payments.

My problem is that an increasing number of people are wising up and buying these sweet spot gems up, and the east europeans and Africans who are far more down to earth and sensible about cars than us Brits have been busy buying the best of our prime used stock and shipping them off home for some years now, hence the increasing shortage in good used cars, particularly Landcruisers (thanks lads), leading to rising prices, just when i'm looking to upgrade mine...falling £ isn't helping with plan A which was to personally grey import a good used one straight from Japan where salt isn't a problem.

Edited by gordonbennet on 31/10/2016 at 14:10

Rust in Cars - madf

My experience if you want cars to last: buy from manufacturres who

1. make them in volume - so spares will be available cheaply.

2. have good ratings for electronic and auto gearbox reliability - thus ensuring parts will last.

3. Only buy from those backing up their products with 5 years or more warranty.

That basically says Honda, Toyota and Kia/Hyundai.

(see the thread where a 4 year old Peugeot lunches its auto gearbox £2k plus..

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=116434 )

Edited by madf on 31/10/2016 at 15:54

Rust in Cars - scot22

The problem for me is many of the cars that have what I like also happen to be big cars : I wouldn't want to drive anything bigger than an S40. I also want comfort and a high driving position for easy access.

If doubt hadn't been put in my head by rust issue with older KIA then would probably have bought a Venga. I'm not really in a position to buy new.

Rust in Cars - Steveieb

On a scale of one to ten, the 70s saw the greatest number of rusty cars in the form of Hondas , Lancia and Alfa Romeo.

Honda at least recalled all their cars with rust inn the whole of the northern hemisphere, whereas the italians stood back and did nothing and almost threw in the towel in the UK in the case of Lancia.

But I was interested to read that the Mk 5 Golf was affected along with the front wings on 2004 Passats and A4s.

Also no one has mentioned the Mercedes problems of the era 1999 to 2004

Rust in Cars - Steveieb

Always fancied a Mk 5 TDI Golf.

But where do I look for Rust and which model year will be fitted with the best AWF diesel engine with the solenoid operated injectors as recommended in this thread?

Rust in Cars - corax

There have been functional designs Scot.

Volvo 1 2 7 and 9 series, especially the estates for their all purpose practicality are one such and many still out there in superb condition, and arguably S60 and V70's whilst not in the same simple durable mould are good long termers so long as looked after, we won't see their like again.

There's a guy in my village who's driven a Volvo 850 estate for years.

It never rusts and just goes on and on. I remember that Volvo enthusiasts turned their noses up at the time because it was front wheel drive, but it turned out to be very durable.

The turning circle was always bad though with that long five cylinder engine and gearbox combination mounted transversly between the front wheels.

Audi started galvanising their cars to banish rust, but how do Volvo manage to make such rust resistant bodies without galvanising?

By all accounts the later Ford owned Volvos aren't in the same league.

Rust in Cars - Ethan Edwards

Behind a Great Wall Steed today. 63 plate I believe. Nice steel grey metallic. Visible bubbling and rust round the number plate and surround.

Not used to seeing that on newer vehicles these days. Perhaps that's why a lot of panels are plastic these days.

Rust in Cars - A3 A4

Owning a 14 year old Audi A4 B6 (2000 - 2004) I have a particular interest in this model and have been making mental notes of the registrations of B6's I see on the road and checking them out later on the DVLA MOT history site.

MOT failures seem to amount to suspension bushes, track rods and brake hoses, aside from stupid failures caused by careless owners. I'm yet to see a rust related failure, exhausts included, my own car is rust free.

The 130bhp PD engine seems to be the most common, have seen a 290k example with a new MOT, but have also seen a 180k 2.0 petrol.

The one thing that will kill these cars off (new government/EU emission laws aside) is electronics. My own car is suffering from random alarm/central locking niggles, however. As small faults occur I try to fix them and have every intention of keeping it on the road, bar of course (heaven forbid) dual mass flywheels, turbos etc...

I have my doubts that later new A4's will be as long lived.

Would agree with the above poster who mentions the 'sweet spot' circa 1995 - 2005, I would exend it to 2007, pre DPF and pre economic downturn.

Rust in Cars - Steveieb
Good to compare notes with another B6 owner.
Mine has some rust along the front wing extremities which appears to be common with the Passat of the same era.
Mine too has suffered electronics gremlins so I disconnected the alarm sounder. One Alb sensor failure which was difficult to replace and the usual front hub bushes which require removal at an engineering centre.
I have the 130bhp Tdi PD and I'm finding it difficult to find a replacement that offers the pulling power, flexibility and incredible fuel consumption.
Can you tell me the mileage on your car , and cam belt change history, major job ,and clutch history.
Also is the VW Passat version exactly the same car?
Rust in Cars - A3 A4

I had an early A4 B6 130 as a company car and was impressed by its grunt and economy, so much so that when I needed a private car I decided to get one. At the time I wanted an estate, but couldn't find a decent 130bhp so plumpted for a rarer 8 year old 100bhp version (AVB engine) from an Audi dealership.

Amazingly they sold it having never had a cambelt change, something I quickly realised and they changed it FOC. The vehicle is now on 94k and has one more fitted since (+ 5 years)

Its still on its original clutch and suspension components and gets a yearly oil change with VAG 507 oil, which I do myself. The biggest repair bills I've had are £150 for a nearside wheel bearing (caused by me taking avoiding action) £150 for the drivers side electric window mech (the passenger one has now failed but that can wait) and £60 for an alternator clutch. I've also disconnected the alarm sounder, but the alarm still occasionally tiggers the indicators, still haven't got to the bottom of it. MOT'd last month, tyres aside, no advisories.

The A4 and Passat share engines and running gear, the 100bhp TDI being far more common in the Passat although not sure if VW rust preventative measures are the same as Audi.

Edited by A3 A4 on 02/11/2016 at 10:49

Rust in Cars - 659FBE

The Mk 1 Skoda Superb can be added to the list.

I have a 130 PS PD diesel (AWX) which is still almost impossible to better in terms of useful performance and fuel consumption at a sensible price. So, I'm keeping it, and am therefore interested in its long term prospects.

My very friendly MOT inspector tells me that these cars don't have structural rust problems - but clearly their claim to be "fully galvanised" does not meet my definition of this treatment. Rust around the number plate lamps, front wing edges and rear wings immediately in front of the wheels needs treating with Dinitrol to effect a lasting cure. I have fitted rubber channels to the front wing edges with Dinitrol applied to the inside of the channel. Any foam blocks inside the front wings must be removed (not fitted on my car) as they hold water.

Mechanically, the car is excellent - the AWX engine is a peach (well, a rough peach) and the 5 speed manual GGB transmission is trouble free. I like having synchromesh on reverse gear. The high torque of the engine now produces some cluch slip in the highest two gears at max torque - but I have towed a lot with this car. I'm leaving it for the time being because clutch operation is otherwise normal and I suspect the facings are not worn out. As the later cars were fitted with a larger clutch, I suspect it's underspecified.

All told, a brilliant motoway cruiser and tow car - a very comfortable and economical mile eater. The VAG electrical gremlins are ever-threatening, but some prevention is possible. Pack connectors with silicone grease, apply silicone spray to the wiring loom inside the door boots so they slide rather than kink, and annually apply silicone spray to the window channels so that the mechanism doesn't self-destruct. Keep the front suspension pinch bolts free, and these cars are a good long term prospect. Be aware of - and fix - the rainwater ingress problem.

659.

Rust in Cars - brum

Remember that galvanizing is a sacrificial (electolytic) form of protection. If there is poor drainage that leads to a blockage, dirt/salts/water etc will accumulate and corrosion will occur. Galvanizing only delays corrosions but does not stop it.

My personal opinion is that external application of any wax type product does nothing but temporary protection, and actually can lead to accelerated corrosion in the long term as its great at attracting dirt and salts and eventually dries and cracks/separates from the applied surface and then acts as a skin to store corrosive solutions.

Packing an electrical connector with silicone grease is not recommended, silicone grease is a great insulator and will lead to high resistance or open circuit connections.

Rust in Cars - A3 A4

No matter how long lived our cars are, our choice of cities could be limited!

www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3899830/Diesel-ow...l

Rust in Cars - 659FBE

In reply to the question of rust and connector failures, my observations are as follows:

In the rust case outlined above, my findings of poor or absent zinc will result in no sacraficial protection. This fits with the observed damage. Steel with a high oxygen content (poor quality) will rust rapidly if exposed to moisture and further oxygen. Wax with a suitable solvent carrier is a very effective treatment in this case - it is absorbed by the porous rust and prevents further corrosive action. It is the only effective treatment for steel which is already rusty with some paint - a real life situation.

Examination of a failed connector will reveal either electrolytic corrosion (usually a green mess) or oxidation/sulphation of the plated mating parts. Any connector must have a pre-load applied to its contacts to give a gas tight connection; otherwise it will be intermittent. Silicone grease (or vaseline for low temperature applications) is highly effective in keeping out moisture, which is essential for electrolytic action to occur, and excluding oxygen or sulphur which cause tarnishing.

Contact preload will displace any dielectric grease in the areas of actual metallic contact to the extent that conductivity is not affected. The grease surrounding that area then excludes moisture and oxygen or sulphur. A connector which fails with dielectric grease applied to it would be intermittent when dry due to a lack of contact preload.

Your silver teaspoons will not tarnish if smeared with vaseline...

659.

Edited by 659FBE on 03/11/2016 at 10:29