Hi Mike,

Sorry for the short response at the moment, but i am sure somewhere there was a recall for this. I'll have a look later and let you know.

Are you getting any sort of "knocking" noises from the back of the car?

Hey there,I'm having exactly the problem as this following disconnecting my battery and subsequently replacing it. I also seem to have lost the ability to use the electric windows from the drivers door console. That has happened before following the disconnection ofthe battery but eventually gets better??? Did you find out what it was or what caused your issue?

Hi, Just joined so may not be doing the right thing. My Mazda 6 has decided to die on me today!. It started fine this afternoon, and then when I tried to start her later, she was having none of it. The lights work, the drivers window works etc. We charged the battery, but it has not made the slightest difference. The battery did go flat in September, very quickly, but I have not had a problem since. The strange thing is, that when I turn the engine over, all the needles on the gages flick round to the maximum/ flick right. So the rev counter, Mileomiter show maximum speed/revs, but there doesn't seem to be enough power to turn the engine. I have also had the problem where the windows, other than the drivers window do not respond to the drivers control panel situated on the drivers door. Is this a general fault. And while I am at it, the idling speed does seem to be too low, If you don't give enought rev's when pulling away, the car will die. It's not usually too much of a problem for me, as I'm not a Sunday driver, but I do wonder if this is a fault with the car. Love It otherwise. Any suggestions will be warmly welcomed

My 55-plate 2l petrol Mazda 6 has started stalling when approaching junctions and when putting the clutch in or coasting for short distances at slow speeds (in car parks or traffic queues for example)

When this happens, the revs drop below the normal idling range (650-700), bounce up and down and the car then sometimes stalls once they get below around 500. The car will always start fine whenever this happens and I'm able to pull away without a problem.

It started doing this following a flat battery over the Christmas holidays, which I'd recharged. As I've had flat battery issues before, I decided to use this opportunity to replace the battery and a new battery has not solved the stalling problem. (following advice I've read, I'd let the car idle on the drive for 25 minutes once the new battery was connected).

I think the key thing here is that the stalling only occurs when the car is moving - the car starts fine, it will idle fine whilst sat on the drive and it will also idle fine once the handbrake is on and the car is stationary at a junction. In all these cases, it's presumably running on the battery.

I have noticed that the headlights flicker slightly occasionally when stationary and idling though, although I have noticed this happen in the past when I've not had the stalling problem.

I'm presumably going through the ECU-relearning process at the moment, but I've been through this before when I've had reason to disconnect the battery, so I don't think it's this that's the issue. I've driven about 50 miles on the new battery so far at a range of speeds.

All other driving appears normal and there are no other obvious symptoms other than those mentioned above.

Does anyone have any ideas ?

I am experiencing exactly the same problem as yourself.

I took it to the Mazda dealership today. They said that whenever the battery has been changed it's necessary for the management system to relearn it's settings. This can be accomplished by turning the steering from lock to lock. The management system will then begin to relearn previous settings. Sounds bizarre I know. I did this and I'm afraid that I can't claim that it has cured the problem. From start up at the idle speed the engine hunts around the normal idling point. After battery replacement (Kwikfit\) they observed that the battery voltage fluctuated bertween 12 and 14 volts.

Vehicle has another complaint under investigation. It has developed a noise in an area which seems to be at the alternator. I wonder if this could be the cause of the above problem i.e it is loading the engine at tick over ?? However the noise was apparent before the battery was swapped so I am learning to manage a car which stops at every junction requiring a stop.

Heeeelp !!