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its ok sometimes when not idling, when im going down the motorway it starts to judder at times, i stay in the slow lane because im not sure when its going to do it, unpredictable to say the least is how the car runs, could it actually be the ecu being faulty causing the problem or have i wasted more money?
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Replacing the ECU is a common "we don't know what else it could be" measure by garages, and in practice rarely goes faulty (it's in a sealed box, and has no moving parts). It will cost a fortune to replace, and probably won't fix the problem (it rarely does). There are places that can test ECUs, and this would be a first step if the garage is adamant that the problem lies with the ECU. To simply replace it and hope is not good practice, and especially as you will be paying the bill. That said, if it's a used one, it might not be silly money. I presume the garage will remove it, refit yours and not charge you if it doesn't fix the problem.
I would agree it's probably something daft like an air leak, or a poor connection somewhere on the engine wiring loom.
Edited by DP on 07/04/2010 at 10:09
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I had some running issues with my Mk3 VR6 a while back. A diagnostic check revealed a problem with the MAF, which I changed, but it had no effect. In the end it turned out to be corroded wires into the multiplug which connects to the top of the MAF. When inspected closley, you could see that the insulation had cracked around the wires as it enters the multiplug. I ended up splicing a new multiplug on.
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the garage changed the ecu it didnt make a different so changed it back, didnt charge me and i got the money back for ecu, they have checked the gasket on the throttle body and thats alright, now they are going to replace the throttle body itself, when i find one cheap enough that is, ive had 3 sent to me and none of them are the right one, mines an auto and has 2 connectors and i keep getting sent one connector ones, obviously for a manual
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ok update for you, ive had the throttle body changed and its still juddering like crazy at junctions, im actually losing the will to live, anyone have any other ideas as to what it can be, the speed sensor maybe?
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ok im seriously sick of the car now, the garage have had another look at the car and contacted vw they think its the crank sensor, but the car doesnt have one or i just cant find it!!! more money and still no joy, ive cleaned the maf sensor checked everything i can see for splits etc, noone knows whats wrong with it, the sc***yard seems a really good place to go next with the keys!
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If your Golf 111 has the 2L AGG engine then it does have a crank speed sensor. The sensor wiring has a connector on top of the front engine mounting bracket and the wire should then run down the side of the dipstick tube to the bottom of the block next to the flywheel cover, under the oil filter and front engine mounting bracket. The sensor wire insulation breaks down with age.
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I don't think the 2E engine has a crankshalf speed sensor, but the AGG does, which causes starting and cutting out problems, but as far as I know not idling problems.
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ok thanks, any ideas what could be causing the problem, apart from changing the engine now im at a loss
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I have exactly the same problem,
I have noticed the juddering occurs when you keep the throttle constant.
My lambda sensor is reading high (according to vag-com), so i guess it is over-fueling ?
tested the MAF by unplugging it, waited for the ECU to readjust - made no difference.
I have checked all the usual pipes for air leaks (air intake, fuel regulator) but it is hard to check the around the manifolds, so it still could be an air leak.
Cleaned the throttle body.
I have a feeling the engine sounds louder ( but I'm not sure )
and finally if I unplug the throttle body wires the engine runs much smoother.
(although the lambda is still reporting an upper limit fault)
any ideas?
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You need to take it to a vag indi and have the throttle body adapted and check out the 02 reading. Regards Peter
Edited by Peter D on 28/05/2010 at 11:34
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I did a throttlebody adaption using vag-com
(took off the air inlet so I could actually see it being performed) it made no difference
also had the emissions tested :
@ 2758 rpm
co : 0.00%
hc: 10 ppm
lambda 1.33
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Hi Peter,
I have recently bought a mark 3, 1.6 CL, auto and I think I have the same problem.
It ran fine when I bought it, has very low mileage (genuine 57,000!), was owned by one old man etc, so I guessed somethings may be loose or whatever but ran absolutely fine and felt quite tight.
Over the past two weeks the engine has started to sound as if it has some kind of air problem like what you mention there with the gasket. It sounds like the automatic clutch has slipped to just below the bighting point instead of just on it and so the engine cuts out when idle now but is fine at higher speeds.
Can you just tell me how I can find the isolation rubber throttle body mounting gasket? Perhaps some kind of engine diagram online? Nothing like that seems to have come in the manual etc. unfortunately! Or will I have to buy a Haynes manual?
Thanks so much.
Elle
Edited by ElleBlack on 11/08/2011 at 17:11
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Automatics do not have clutches, they have torque convertors and brake bands. However the isolation gasket is under the injector body/throttle bady and the inlet manifold. Remove the air filter, run the engine and try rocking the throttle body back and forth, if it alters the engine performance then there is you problem. Regards Peter
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Hi Peter
I have a similar intermittent problem with my 1999 V reg golf.
The revs run high when running (1400 or so) and sometimes leap and stick at 3000! The only cure is to pull in, switch off and restart a couple of minutes later. Sometimes the opposite happens, when the engine just cuts out when dropping the clutch.
My local VAG indy says it is the throttle body and has quoted £308 for repair and £528 for a new one.
Can you confirm his diagnosis is likely to be correct and would a repair/replacement be sure to fix the problem?
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I have this problem with the isolation gasket leaking air into the system, but I cant figure out how to remove the plastic over the throttle body the start the repair process. I only see one long bolt and removing it alone allows no joy. What am I missing?
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Jhi guys a bit of a old post but ill give it a go . I have a vw golf mk3 1.6 aee engine now it idles rough .. And when reving from 900 to 2500 rpm is suffers really badly and then from 2500 rpm and up works perfect.. Any ideasss...??.
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