I changed the engine oil on my focus (1.8 petrol) today but was unable to remove the oil filter. Access was awkward and the filter was tight, I'm not sure when it was last changed because I have only had the car a week.
I put in new oil but left in the old oil filter which was slightly damaged but not punctured. Would there be any detrimental effect to the car by leaving the old filter in? I can either take it to the garage to get them to change just the filter or leave it till the next oil change and do both. If I leave the old filter in will it contaminate the new oil?
Edited by Focus1.8TDCi on 09/02/2010 at 18:57
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I think you should have another go at getting the filter off (after draining the oil).
You change the filter to prevent it getting blocked by contaminants in the oil. If the filter gets blocked, it is bypassed and your oil is no longer filtered.
The fact that the old filter is very tight suggests it hasn't been changed for a while, so it's worthwhile swapping it.
What tools, if any, are you using? A good strap type wrench is best.
Edited by mcguyver on 09/02/2010 at 19:35
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I'm no mechanic, but I'd have thought that your old filter will clog fairly quickly; you can't afford to run your car whose engine is being starved of oil!
Have you tried to use a filter wrench, available in any car parts shop or even Halfords. I don't know how tight you are for space around your filter, so you'll have to choose which design is best.
IF there's room, you could always bang a 6" nail through a diagonal, and use that to get some purchase (stand by to catch the oil that'll spill out!)
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I must admit my lovely green vectra did 34,000 miles on the same filter 'cos I couldn't get it off....hangs head in shame.....I changed to a strap based removal tool as opposed to bike chain type and it came off easy.
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You are really meant to jack the OSF of the car up and remove the offside front wheel to obtain suitable access to the oil filter if working at ground level. There's probably a splash shield to remove as well.
I usually find that putting on a rubber glove (Marigold!) gives sufficient grip to both remove the old filter and tighten the new one. I would certainly recommend you change the filter. Don't forget to smear some clean oil around the filter sealing ring before fitting the new filter. Should be tightened half to three quarters of a turn further once sealing ring has made initial contact with engine block.
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I tried a filter wrench and chain wrench, and used both hands with marigolds on and the stubborn thing still wouldn't budge! And its one of those long style oil filters too, about 5-6 inches. Will have to take it to a garage.
Edited by Focus_Driver on 09/02/2010 at 20:56
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I had the same problem on the same car...Just hammer a chisel or flat headed screwdriver through it and use that to get in loose.
As the saying goes, Its like using a sledge hammer to open a coconut, but as long as your careful not to hit anything else you will have no problems....apart from the mess.
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I seem to recall jacking the car up slightly when changing the oil and filter on my old 1.8i, but there's no need to remove the wheel. Access is awkward, but not impossible when laying underneath the car.
I found that the marigold glove trick worked for me over the years and saved me having to use my strap-wrench.
If neither of these works, then it sounds like the filter has been put on way too tight or it's simply seized I guess.
It sounds like jamming a screwdriver through it is your only DIY option left - it's a known trick, but I've never had to do it myself though.
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I tried again with a chain and socket type wrench but still no luck. Took it to Kwick Fit who changed the oil and filter for £30. They wouldn't just do the filter. I'd damaged the filter earlier and when I got there it was leaking quite bad. Only thing is do Kwik Fit use 1 type of oil? Does it make any difference? My car uses 5w30 so I'm not sure if thats what they put in as they have the one oil gun/piston they use.
It was slightly akward for them to remove but they managed it and said it was put on way too tight (or just seized due to not being changed for a while). Car runs fine though, no different to before.
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I'm very pleased that you managed to get the problem sorted, OP.
I've no idea what oil Kwik Fit use, I'm afraid, and their website doesn't seem to give any clues, either. Yes, your car should really use 5W-30, didn't you ask them?
Should you need this service again in the future you might possibly be better off taking your car to a Ford Rapid Fit outlet. They will certainly use 5W-30 oil and will also fit a genuine Ford oil filter.
Edited by Galaxy on 10/02/2010 at 19:07
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I did ask them and they said "yeah, thats what we use" so theres no way of knowing. I have used rapid fit before but they charge between £35-45 and there isn't a local one around where I am. They did fit a long style filter which was the same as the ford motorcraft one that was on it. A parts shop had sold me a shorter one but said it was fine to use.
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You didn't fancy the brutal method then?
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No I didn't want to risk making things worse, like making a hole in the filter and still not being able to remove it and having oil leaking all over the place.
The odd thing is, I tried to loosen the filter today but couldn't. It was only put on hand tight by kwik fit.
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Shock it with a hammer a few times then either -
Push it into the block with one hand and twist?
or
Pull it out of the block with both hands and twist?
Edited by CraigP on 12/02/2010 at 00:04
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Not enough space to do that...
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I struggled for years with strap and chain devices - but eventually found a metal `claw` device in Halfords that let me remove a filter one handed underneath a Punto 1.9D.
It`s a rigid, one handed, curved metal device that can be slid on easily- over the end of the filter. I wonder if one of those would be OK on your Ford?
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I have a chain removal device but have found the rubber band and handle device that SWMBO keeps in the kitchen for removal bottle and jar tops works every time.
All it requires is the external cleaning of the filter with white spirits, drying with a rag and then application.
It cannot slip if the filter is dry and you can apply all your strength to removal without worrying about holding on the strap.
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The method I've used before resorting to the screw driver is to wipe clean the filter and wrap insulation tape around it and twist it through 180 degrees every turn or so. This will give a sticky surface for a good grip with rubber gloves.
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The strap device I've bought after years of the using the bike chain type has a half inch drive socket on it, so I just stick an extender bar and 12" racket on the end, works much better.
This page seems to include most variations on the theme:-
www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Shop/Oil-Filter-Tools
I've changed from the 77854 to the AK640
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slight slant, what is the general rule of thumb when removing the sump plug to drain the oil, do you change the washer too? if so why dont they supply one with the oil filter....thanks
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"slight slant, what is the general rule of thumb when removing the sump plug to drain the oil, do you change the washer too? if so why dont they supply one with the oil filter....thanks"
IIRC, the sump plug and washer are a one-piece unit and the Haynes recommends replacing them every time you change the oil - they're not too expensive from Ford.
I tended to renew it every other time and never had any problems.
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You should always change the sump washer when changing the oil. They usually cost pennies and will save a lot of trouble.
I learnt the hard way on a Peugeot diesel years ago; the copper washer looked fine so I reused it. Mistake. The oil was dripping out nicely. Fortunately, I didn't make the situation worse by trying to over tighten the sump plug (or loosen the plug a little and wrap plumbers' tape round it), I drained the oil out and started again.
One exemption to this rule is if the washer is integral with the plug, as in the above Focus.
I've reused them at least four times with no leaks. According to a Ford tech I asked, if the seal is intact, it's fine to use the old plug/washer.
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With Vauxhall at least you get a new washer / O ring in the box with the new oil filter.
Academic for those of us that suck the oil out via the dipstick hole (let's not go there again!)
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Not sure if under bonnet layout is the same a Zetec-engined mondeos, but I tend to change the filter from above, reaching down the driver's side rear of the engine block with a Marigold. I feel safer applying a bit of muscle to filter this way too, rather than lying under a car on stands!
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Sump washer Is £2 at our local FIat dealer. The 'oIl sucker' has paId for Itself...
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Clean it thoroughly, then wind a long length of thin rope round and round and round and round.....starting from the bottom, then pull REALLY hard [obviously anticlockwise]! If you've got enough turns on it won't slip - like a mooring rope wound round a capstan.
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