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I like to know why demisters start to lose their effectiveness after a few years. How does the element deteriorate? Does it change its composition over time carbon build up or something? I've never had a car over ten years old where the demister worked properly, which is irritating as rear windows with demisters are expensive to replace, something I wouldn't do anyway. But it is such an inconvenience, even if you stop to wipe they can mist up again before it has warmed up the windscreen enough. Grrr!
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No problem on my fifteen-year-old car.
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So long as the elements/wires are intact and passing a current I don't really see how the performance can deteriorate, although I accept what you have observed obviously. Is there a strip of cleared glass above and below each wire, a few moments after you switch on?
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Only one of the elements on my soon to be 14yo Mondeo doesn't work but the quick clear screen on the front is down to a narrow strip, fortunately right in front of my face.
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RR - if you can spot a break in the faulty rear screen element AND if it bothers you it is possible to buy a small pot of repair fluid (contains silver I think) and apply it to the break. Halfords is one source SFAIK
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Over-enthusiastic cleaning of the inside of the glass can remove some of the element.
I always clean the glass carefully and wipe 'with' - along - the element rather than across it.
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I was counting the failed lines only last night. Four out of the 12 lines on my 10yo Focus have failed.
About 10 years a go I managed to mend a few broken lines on a Peugeot 205 using the stuff AS mentions. A voltmeter was useful to find where along the line the break was.
I still have the bottle of stuff but know how long it took me last time so haven't given it a go yet.
The front quickclear screen has some large areas that have failed in the last year but I thought those elements were within the screen so don't understand their failure.
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i was showing a young lad the other day how to go along a rear window element with my multimeter beeping until you find a break
strange world isnt it
i had a guy bring a car back a few months ago screaming the bottom element didnt work and i should fit him a new window
i assume the front ones blow just like light bulbs do do
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My current Vectra has 4 elements failed after 13 years, some 'erbert has tried to fix them with silver loaded paint and failed, the resistive joints now generate RF interfance though grrrr...All my other 10-14 year old bangenomics Vauxhalls have had 100% functional HRWs though.
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Same as Bath Tub...15 yrs and still fine......we must only buy quality!
Ted
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you must both not put your brollies,hat and yorkshire terriors on the parcel shelf then
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My father in law broke his rear demister on his Citroen AX years ago. He went to buy some wood from B&Q. Fed the wood in from the back and laid the front of it on the dash. Unfortunately he failed to notice that the wood was slightly longer than the car. Slammed the tailgate and punched the whole back window out. The rear panel fell off too and landed on his feet, he was wearing only sandals and socks in true Brit style and it cut his foot. Took him ages to see what we all found so funny about it.....
Edited by Humph Backbridge on 12/12/2009 at 23:04
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>>Same as Bath Tub...15 yrs and still fine......we must only buy quality!
Ted
You've got a KIA pride as well?
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Got a brolly and an 'at but no Kia, Yorkie or parcel shelf !
Ted
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>>Is there strip of cleared glass above and below each wire a few moments after youswitch on?
There is no break in the element yet it is not working as fast it used to. Yes clear glass does appear either side of the strips but the clearing spreads very slowly and that is my gripe. I've had many an old car with really feeble demisters.
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Yes clear glass does appear either side of the strips but the clearing spreads very slowly and that is my gripe.
I knew what you meant in the OP and it's certainly something I've experienced in the past too, with cars bareable to clear mistyness, never mind condensation.
Don't know why it happens - perhaps there's a slightly high resistance conection somewhere (most likely at one or both sides of the screen) which is preventing the full voltage from being applied across the screen.
Maybe you could measure it if the connections are accessible - should be 13.2V with the engine running.
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