I've been following the debate in the other thread about which oil to use in a Minor, and seeing the level of disagreement I'm beginning to question the advice given to me for my own Minor. I'm running what is essentially a brand new Minor - only just enough original parts used to keep its registration - with a freshly reconditioned A+ (Marina/Ital) block overbored by 20 thou to about 1380cc (ish). I passed 6000 miles just yesterday, about four months since the car was finished - reckon on about 10,000 per year. The rest of the car is extensively modified too and unlike my many previous Minors this one works fairly 'hard' - I cruise at 4000rpm on motorways (ahem - equates to a true 80) and get pretty close to that rpm in lower gears too. So, different lump, different age of build, different history, different mileage, and different use profile. Which oil should *I* be using, please?!
slt and moved over to Technical
Edited by Pugugly on 28/09/2009 at 11:54
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I would probably use a common 10W40 (A3/B3) semi synthetic rather than finding anything specially made for older engines.
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run the engine in on std 20/50 , then go to a semi synthetic , if you run in on semi , it will take the bores ages to mate
from experience
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run the engine in on std 20/50 then go to a semi synthetic if you run in on semi it will take the bores ages to mate from experience
But he has done 6000?
I agree with NC re 10/40 semi.
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I would probably use a common 10W40 (A3/B3) semi synthetic rather than finding anything specially made for older engines.
That iis better advice than a chap got in a "large car parts warehouse" last week
Chap " I have a 99 BMW 5 series diesel" -What oil?
Reply from assisteant "Long life servicing you need Castrol Edge 2 x these @ £46 each" = £92..............
open mouthed the chap left empty handed
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>>run the engine in on std 20/50
If there were some gears in the sump, perhaps running this treacle might make some sort of sense, but, in a Minor, it makes none whatsoever.
From my experience, engines which have been rebored outside of an engine remanufacturing factory are so roughly finished, that no oil, no matter how good would stop them running in. Obviously, an engine bored under OEM conditions, with a decent plateau honed surface finish doesn't need running in in the same way.
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I'd use Castrol GTX 15W/40 if it's still available, a 10W oil will leak out of the rear oil seal unless it's a modified seal.
Re: running on a 20w/50 oil no problem in summer.
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Which part of the rear seal?
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Years ago many engines of similar vintage were quite badly damaged by the advent of new grades of oil on the market place, the 10w/40, the 15w/40 etc.. This could have been because the oils were not as good, or it could have been the viscosity. It was generally thought the viscosity was the problem, more so as the engines wear.
Engines of that vintage run well on 20W/50 oils, but you do need to warm them up, much more so, and more important than on modern cars. I always used to give them a minute or so in summer and at least a couple of minutes in winter. Thinner oils can result in low oil pressure, high consumption and even leaks. The use of semi synthetics may or may not be OK, depending on the formulation of materials used in the seals, full synthetics are probably best avoided. The problem is you may not get the semi synthetics in the grades required.
The comment about avoiding any semi synthetics until it's run in is good advice.
Edited by davecuk on 28/09/2009 at 14:49
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Most likely to leak from the oil pump protective cover on the rear engine mounting plate (a gasket rather than a seal).
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>>Most likely to leak from the oil pump protective cover on the rear engine mounting plate (a gasket rather than a seal).
kith, that's odd, because there's nothing particularly old-tech in terms of the gaskets that would have to fail for there to be any significant oil leak there, and nothing I can imagine that is particularly sensitive to oil viscosity.
IIRC, there are some oil pump types (there were lots of oil pump variants on A series engines) with an extra cover on the back, but that also had a paper gasket.
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Ran my rebuilt 948 Minor on 10W/40 semi synthetic for years. Absolutely fine.
JS
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Get some Penrite 20W/50 in there. tinyurl.com/y9r3gjl
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If the OP were putting what is fundamentally the same engine in a Maestro or Montego, would there still be this crazy 20W50 recommendation?
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IIRC Montegos had a different engine, OHC "S" series I think.
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There was a 1.3 A Series Montego.
A 50's era unmoletsed A series might be better on 20/50 though an A+ as the OP reports should have 10/40 semi skimmed IMO.
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going off on a slight tangent (but coming back to oils)
on my old enfield m/bike I always use supermarket 20/50 , but it has almost doubled in price , so Hein Garrek (sp) the m/bike shop were selling 4l s/skimmed 10/40 for £10. ,,,,a bargain!!
having drained and refilled on friday , i,ve been out all weekend on here ,
the thinner 10/40 has leaked from every gasket/seal known to man!
so much that i have drained her today , and refilled with morrisons best 20/50
your car , like my bike (a 93 model) , does not have the engineering tollerances of modern cars ,
please use a good quality 20/50 ,
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A slight tasngent!!
To the OP - why not check with a company like Castrol - on their web page, you'll find a link to search for the right oil for your car. If you put in models that were fitted with A+ engines, like, say, Maestros, Montegos, even Metros, see what they recommend.
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Enfields always leaked from every gasket and seal known to man - hence the monniker Royal Oilfield when I were a lad. Or are the Indian ones built to closer tolerances?
BTW, for the first time the other day, with my own eyes, I saw an Enfield Diesel!
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20w/50 in summer-10w/30 in winter.
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yes the diesel ones are being built by a guy called henry price , priceparts , using clymar (sp) engines.
my enfield is usually oil tight ,
the reason for leakages 30 yrs ago was "bodgery" , ie: making gaskets from cornflake boxes etc
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You could be right! And replacing studs with self-tappers, etc...
I think the two Enfield diesels I saw may be conversions - do they actually make any in India?
I have a pic of them if you're interested and would care to email me.
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no the diesels are no longer made , they were for the internal market , and not for export.
there was a little tax quitk in india , on diesel pumps etc , money back from the goverment , so they used there diesels in there bikes?
enfield has had to modernize its engines for export (ncap?) so all the old engines have gone now
back to A+ , I used to love that engine (in a mini)
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- with a freshlyreconditioned A+ (Marina/Ital) block overbored by 20 thou to about 1380cc (ish).
The correct oil for the A+ engine is 10w/40.
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Just bought some 5w-40 fully synthetic millers oil for a merc A class diesel that only does 2.5k a year if that, thats because thats what they recomend.
Id rather stick some 15-40 diesel oil in and change it every 12 months can't see it doing any harm! (grandads car)
If the oil is changed regular i don't see a problem using other oils but regular is 5k or every 6 months which ever is sooner.
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Just bought some 5w-40 fully synthetic millers oil for a merc A class diesel that only does 2.5k a year if that thats because thats what they recomend. Id rather stick some 15-40 diesel oil in and change it every 12 months can't see it doing any harm! (grandads car) If the oil is changed regular i don't see a problem using other oils but regular is 5k or every 6 months which ever is sooner.
The injection pump needs the right spec oil!!!!!
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20 thou overbore is only 1293 cc - nowhere near 1380!
But no matter - the oil to use is any decent 20W50 - even the ASDA stuff is fine - just don't expect it to last for ever.
Anything thinner will pour out the rear 'seal' - which isn't a seal at all - it's just a scroll with a labyrinth. Good crankcase ventilation is essential too - to stop oil escaping here. It won't leak fom the oil pump! How could it??
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- which isn't a seal at all
This is an A+ engine, not an A series.
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When I was servicing cars equipped with the A+ engine, the regular oil fill was 15w/40 Shell Super. If I was going to do one now, I would look for a semi synthetic of the same viscosity or failing that a 10w/40 instead. Don't bother with "classic" type oils for these engines, they won't appreciate it.
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20 thou is only 0.5mm - std bore of a 1275 a/a+ BMC block is 71mm - with an 81mm stroke.
10 thou will give 1293, 20 thou gives 1309 ( known as a 1310) getting to 1380 needs a 73.5mm bore, and 7cc dish pistons.
Edited by racingkarts on 06/12/2009 at 22:34
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Yes - sorry - 1310 for a 20 thou rebore. A+ engine still doesn't have a proper seal at the rear main - that only came in the version used in the Maestro as far as I know? 10W/40 oil may be ok in winter but too thin for summer. These engines certainly don't need fancy 'semi-synethic' oils - good old 20W50 is fine.
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