Hi hope someone can offer some advice, my mrs bought this car a few days ago and it has died already!
Obviously it is quite an old motor but it looked in great condition, was an older disabled ladies car and she seemed very genuine, so I was quite surprised that this has happened.
She was on the motorway and it just lost power. Now won't start at all. Battery seems okay, the engine turns over (although sounds very spluttery). I realize that this is totally vague and no-one is gonna give a prognosis based on this info, but I was just hoping for a few pointers of what it could possibly be (common faults etc) and what to check.
Incidentally, our other car is a diesel. She says she is 80% sure she didn't put the wrong fuel in but she is a bit...dippy... Does it sound like this may be it, or is there any way to check?
Cheers in advance
Minski
Edited by Pugugly on 18/09/2009 at 10:43
|
|
its feasable, how long between filling up and i cutting out, did she get a reciept what do's it say,next thing to check is to get some fuel out of it and smell it, bit unsure which engine you have in this so cant give a specific way to get the fuel out, Regards TB
|
The most important bit of information is missing from your post, as the other poster said how long/many miles from filling up to the problem occurring.
Turn engine over remove plug and look at it (also smell it), does it look really oily.
Remove fuel cap and have a sniff.
Assuming your other half filled up from empty and didn't put just a gallon in an almost full car, you should be able to smell the Diesel if it was misfuelled. Also just check to see if it actually can be misfuelled, the filler hole might be too small.
Edited by davecuk on 18/09/2009 at 11:38
|
|
|
|
She put £10 in on top of about a fiver, and managed to do a good 30 miles before it died.
I didn't realize this, so I think this probably rules out wrong fuel.
Any other suggestions? Are there any routine checks I can do to rule things out or any common faults I should be aware of?
|
Update
Tried to start it, I'm no expert but it sounds to me like the starter motor is turning over but the engine isn't firing at all.
Also gave the fuel cap the smell test and can't smell diesel.
|
Cam-belt?
From HJ's CBC above:
See Recalls re GF50 plastic timing belt pulleys. Timing belts on 4 cylinder 16v engines also drive the water pump which can shed its impeller blades and seize, throwing off the belt
|
>Cam-belt?
My thoughts exactly.
Had a Cavalier CD Auto many years ago that expired in the same way. Quick check was to peer in through the oil filler cap while turning the engine over.
Kevin...
|
Hi guys - Not sure about the cambelt, any ideas where it is on this model? I don't think it is 16 valve. Also, she was going 70 mph +, but says there was no thump or noise, she just lost power. I was under the impression that if the cambelt comes off at high speed you would know all about it?
I did check the engine with the oil cap removed, it doesn't seem to be moving at all. The radiator fan is cranked up to full though as soon as the key is turned to 2nd postion, not sure if this has any significance?
|
>>I did check the engine with the oil cap removed, it doesn't seem to be moving at all
If you mean you couldn't see a camshaft turning when the engine was turned on the starter motor, then you've lost drive to the camshaft. That probably means the cambelt is done for.
>>there was no thump or noise, she just lost power
If the cambelt goes, all power will be lost. Was there just a reduction in power, or did the engine die completely?
|
|
|
Hi guys - Not sure about the cambelt any ideas where it is on this model? I don't think it is 16 valve.
It's on the left hand side of the engine (looking in from the front of the car) under a plastic cover. The alternator belt runs just outside the plastic cover.
I was under the impression that if the cambelt comes off at high speed you would know all about it?
If it's an 8v engine you may well have got away with no damage to the valves, valve stems or pistons. (that is of course if it's actually the cambelt that's snapped)
|
>>>>>>>>If it's an 8v engine you may well have got away with no damage to the valves, valve stems or pistons. (that is of course if it's actually the cambelt that's snapped)
Is there any way to check whether the valves etc have been damaged if the belt has snapped, or is this something only a mechanic is likely to be able to check?
And out of interest how come an 8v engine is less likely to get damaged if the belt snaps?
|
To check to see if the belt has snapped, you need to either remove the plastic cover and watch the cam pulley as the engine is cranked, or, remove the cam cover and watch the cam itself as the engine is cranked.
Off the top of my head, I can't remember when the cam covers changed - old cam covers allowed the cam to be seen in plain view after taking the oil filler cap off - later cam covers have a baffle plate in there which obscures the view. I strongly suspect this car will be fitted with a later type of cam cover, but, am not sure.
>>Is there any way to check whether the valves etc have been damaged if the belt has snapped, or is this something only a mechanic is likely to be able to check?
IF the belt has snapped, and IF it's a 16 valve engine, valves will be bent and damaged - there's no doubt.
IF the belt has snapped, and IF it's an 8 valve engine, you might get away with it. The best thing to do is to fit a new belt, and see how it runs. It's not impossible for the valves to be OK, but for a rocker to snap - which can be seen if the cam cover is removed (it's only a few M6 bolts holding it on!)
>>And out of interest how come an 8v engine is less likely to get damaged if the belt snaps?
The valves on 16 valve engines are inclined relative to the axis of the cylinder - when a piston hits one, it will naturally bend. The valves on eight valve engines are in line with the cylinder - when the piston hits one, it is the rocker which is the weak part of the structure, and this breaks in bending.
The layout of the eight valve engine, its lower compression ratio, and the clearances between the valves and the pistons also make contact much less likely in the first place.
|
Thanks to everyone who has responded with advice on this, I'm going to check the belt tomorrow and see how it goes from there.
Incidentally it is definately an 8 valve so really hoping that if it is the cambelt we get away with it (deserve a bit of luck after the car broke down on the 2nd day).
|
Incidentally it is definately an 8 valve so really hoping that if it is the cambelt we get away with it (deserve a bit of luck after the car broke down on the 2nd day).
>>
>>>>> yes its an 8 valve and to be fair you bought it off an old dear so im pretty sure the belt zipped
you really should have had this sorted before letting wife rip it at 70mph on the queens highway
you might get away with a few fingers of fudge and a new belt of course but it also needs a water pump at the same time as the old one wont come out clean and will leak on the seal or the strain of a new belt
|
Got the cover off and surprise surprise, the belt is totalled!
Now got to get this done, is there anything I should know before I do? Is it possible to check whether the valves, pistons etc are damaged before paying to get the belt replaced?
I don't want to be throwing good money after bad on this, especially if I need a water pump and tensioners as well...
|
Is it possible to check whether the valves pistons etc are damaged before paying to get the belt replaced?
Only if you remove the cylinder head.
|
Firstly, another big thank you to everyone who contributed ideas, opinions and experience, I really appreciated it and it really did help.
Secondly, just to update anyone who might read this in the future, we changed the timing belt and...
Started first time, no problems at all. Looks like we got away without any damage!
Lucky, lucky, lucky I think. But there you go, on this particular model it seems there must be a good chance of getting lucky.
|
|
|
|
