Is there a problem changing from the 'Long Life' oil back to the standard? Can this harm the engine?I prefer to change the oil every year and it seems a waste to pay extra for the 'Long Life' Biggles757
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No problem.
Remember with VAG PD diesel engines, always go by the VAG oil specification number, not viscosity rating or marketing-driven descriptions. The current long life specification for PD diesels is 507.00 which replaces 506.01. Standard "10,000 mile" oil for this engine is 505.01.
Having said all that, 507.00 oil can nowadays be bought nearly as cheaply as the 505.01 oil if you shop around. Change the filter and the 2 "O" rings at each oil change.
Ever wondered why so many VAG diesels end up with the wrong oil in them? Using engineering specification numbers as a means of describing oil to the user (with no information on the engine) is a sure-fire formula for disaster. Well done, VAG.
659.
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Many thanks for the advice on long life oil and the specifications.
The VW agent is confused by the requirement of 2 "O" rings. The oil filter is already fitted with a seal and the only other seal needed is the one on the sump plug. This is for the 1.9 Tdi engine. Have they got it wrong somehow? Biggles 757
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The folter is not fiited with a seal but it does come with one. The contributor may be thinking of the fuel filter and it's seals. I would use 507.xx oil and 10K. Long service intervals are to attract fleet companies, in my book oil has done it's job at 10K. Regards Peter
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I agree, you can pick up 5 litres of 507.00 easily for £25 if you visit a good Motor Factor or GSF, which is only £2 a month for the extra insurance it provides.
There are two o-rings supplied with the oil filter, a large one several inches in diameter which is to seal the filter housing lid to the bowl and a small one for the stick in the lid which allows the bowl to drain when you pull the lid off.
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These two "O" rings are indeed the ones to which I referred. They are always supplied with a new element of reputable manufacture, and are very important.
The small lower ring on the end of the "stick" prevents the filter housing from draining into the sump until you remove the cap. A leak here would mean that the engine would be starved of oil at each cold start until the chamber is filled by the oil pump.
The large ring seals the cap. It's well worth investing in the (cheap) 14 sided socket needed to unscrew and re-torque the cap. As always on these sophisicated engines, bodging doesn't pay.
The sump plug has a captive washer.
659.
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