I am at my wit's end with my car. I know it's old but has only done 70k miles. I have an intermittent fault with the brake sticking on and the wheel getting red hot. The garage replaced the calliper only 200 miles ago. (it had a new wheel bearing at the same time). Now it is happening again. I have checked there is no drop in the brake fluid level. The garage also say they checked the condition of the pipes to the calliper. The car had not been used for 2 weeks when it happened this time. I drove 10 miles, no problem. Drove home, started to smell heat just as I got home.
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IF i remember these are sliding calipers, can't remember if the caliper comes complete or just the piston housing assembly.
If the piston housing alone has been renewed it could be the slider sticking....try cleaning the sliding surfaces with a wire brush and glass paper and lubricate with coppaslip, they get gungy with salt corrosion and become stuck.
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Thanks for that, but it was the whole assembly replaced. and that was only 4 years old. (Replaced for the same reason, but seemed to fix it that time).
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I'll assume your car has the Bendix calipers (pads retained by "wedges" which you knock out with a punch after removing a rather puny retaining clip).
There are three stiction possibilities associated with these calipers - as only one brake is affected the master cylinder can be eliminated, but there is always the possibility of a blocked hose; this should be carefully checked.
Firstly check that the piston is free - jack it out carefully with the pedal and check that it can be retracted with little effort. Then check that the boots on the slider pins are intact and that there is lubricant present underneath. With the pads removed, check that the caliper can be slid to and fro to the limits easily - virtually no force is needed.
The killer problem with these calipers is the fit of the inboard pad on the bracket. The "ears" on the pads have to be a sliding fit on the wedge at one end and the bracket at the other. Some pattern pads are suspect. I have found Delphi pads to be satisfactory in this (and other) respect and I use them. Make sure with an assembled caliper that the inboard pad is free to slide in the bracket - which it must do to take up wear and allow retraction. If the fit is OK, apply copper based anti-seize compound to the sliding surfaces at the ends of the backplate "ears" sparingly. I have found this to be important.
Before realising this, I always had problems getting the inner and outer pads to wear evenly on these calipers.
659.
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going out cant read it all but you also need to check the hose isnt expanding under pressure and closing with foot off so stopping the piston rectracting
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