I have had a power problem with my 2001 130 tdi sport for two years now. first time it happened I had driven hard for 40 miles and it went into limp mode, I drove another 90 miles and stoped in a garage for fuel. after paying the car was back to normal. this started to happen more and more often but it only happens if I go over 70mph. i found that by quickly switching the ignition off then back on again it resets the problem and is ok. the frequency is now so offten that i really can only drive at less than 70mph in order to keep full power. the car has been serviced regularly. there are no lights that come on. now i only drive at below 70mph and realy have a problem. i would like to sort the problem so if anyone knows what the problem is that would be great.
Gary
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This sounds like overboost again. What revs are you doing when it goes into limp mode, and what gear are you usually in?
Is it usually 5th or 6th when the revs are around 2,500 for more than a couple of minutes?
One thing worth a try on Passats is to hose the VNT mechanism control linkage with WD40, it's quite exposed to rain & road muck and can get sticky.
If you know where the VNT actuator is (its the silver mushroom-shaped thing with a tube going into the top of it, on the LEFT side of the engine as you look at it, next to the airbox-to-turbo hose), have a feel underneath. There is a rod that goes from the actuator down into the turbo housing.
That rod moves the VNT linkage. What you need is a small can of WD40 with the straw on it. You need to aim the spray DOWN the rod so it runs down to the bottom of the linkage. REALLY soak it, then leave 15 minutes and soak it again. This can flush away crud that may be making the linkage sticky.
If that doesn't work, then it is likely that there's a problem with the N75 solenoid or the turbo is sooted up internally.
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As you say, the revs are about 2,000 - 3000 in 6th gear and normally after at least 20 min driving although it happens sooner and more often each time. Today, after reading the comments above, I tried driving only in 2nd gear at about 4000rpm to try and put it into limp mode but it didn?t happen, maybe the journey was too short or it only happens in 6th gear?
When I accelerate hard and throttle off to change gear there is loads of smoke left behind, I don?t think it is blue or white it just looks dirty. It is really noticeable at night when there are lights behind you, the car behind almost disappears lol.
I will try the VNT actuator as you have suggested and see if that helps.
Thank you for your reply
Gary
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Just to be sure!!
When the car goes into limp mode it is still drivable and will still get up to 70mph, it just takes a long time to get there, no real power and you couldn?t overtake with any confidence.
Not having experienced a car that goes into limp mode before I am only guessing that my definition above is actually limp mode and not some other problem.
Gary
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Why don't you search for a local independent VW group specialist and ask them to diagnose the problem?
Have a bit of discussion beforehand and tell them you do not want to waste your money. If they have any pride and knowledge they will take on the job and do it at a reasonable price.In my experience at much less than a main dealer. If you were in the South Yorkshire/North Derbyshire area I'd recommend JBS, Chesterfield.
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Hi Craig,
I have read your posts in some tdi threads,and would like to ask for info about my 1.9 tdi pd bora with 130 bhp.
I have the same problem than some other guys here.
The car put it self to limp mode on the motoway,then switch off the engine,start again then goes well for a while,then the problem appears again.
My question is:
Do you know how to clean out the turbo on my car?I have seen you offer to use wd-40,which maybe solve the problem.
Could you give me a guide what and how to remove from the turbo(which pipes),where and how many times to spray the wd-40 please?
Thank you in advance
Roy
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Roy,
the WD40 thing is NOT a guaranteed fix but it is cheap and worth trying.
On the Golf / Bora the turbo is at the back of the engine, way down by the bulkhead on the passenger (left) side of the car.
You will need to remove the engine cover but don't remove any pipes. When you find the turbo, it's obvious where the actuator and rod are ... just aim for the short link arm that the actuator rod pushes / pulls on.
I have also seen on various forums that replacing the N75 valve (which controls the turbo VNT mechanism) can fix overboost. The N75 is the plastic solenoid switch on the bulkhead which has three rubber vac pipes and an electrical connector.
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Hello Craig,
Thank you for responding!
I have tried to find the actuator.
Is it something like a rubber ball on the turbocharger?
So if it is,I only need to aim to the mechanical part of this?
I will give a try...
Someone told this horse power loosing can be caused a dirty or faulty MAF sensor.
Do you think should I try to clean it with brake cleaner?A mechanicer offered me this way.
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This pic is useful -- it shows the turbo from underneath the car (Seat Ibiza, but the same engine and layout).
i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab311/thehitchersphoto...g
The actuator is the silver round thing pointing at you, and the actuator rod goes UP to the turbo, so you should be able to hose it with WD40 from above, if you remove the engine cover.
The MAF connector can be a problem and is worth a try, again it is very easy to get at. Brake cleaner is maybe too harsh, if you have some tape head cleaner, that's better.
Or you can just unplug and reconnect the connector 5 or 6 times. This will "wipe" the connector clean.
Edited by craig-pd130 on 24/11/2009 at 09:46
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Hi there,and Thank you Craig!
I finally understood which could be this actuator rod!
I can not see from above,so I am going to get my self under the car,and will find it there.
Do you think I can try to move(pull-push) it whilst I am spraying with wd-40?
Or just spray it?
I am gonna check the vacuum pipes,and clean the MAF in the same time as well.
Then change the N75 and the MAF if the problem will still exist.
If none of them works,do you think is there a point to clean the whole turbo with Innotec Kit,or the turbo is probably dead?
Is there any way to clean the geometry(vanes) from outside without removing the turbo,or any pipes,or any parts from the turbo?
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When I had a MAF fail on one of theses engines it was a permanent fault & couldn't be reset by turning off the ignition.
Change all the vacuum pipes associated with the turbo & N75 valve. VW used poor quality rubber pipes that easily develop leaks & because they are covered in a cotton sheath you can't see the damage underneath, only costs a few pounds.
Make sure you change one at a time so you don't get them mixed up.
The turbo has to be removed & partially stripped down to clean.
Here is a link showing what's involved.
www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-T...l
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Finally I used the WD 40 on the actuator rod, I had driven some way so the turbo was hot. It made a crack noise and I was worried that it had cracked the turbo, it still ran ok so I think all is well. It has been well tested now and the car no longer trips into limp mode. I wish I had found this out 2 years ago when the problem first started. The power now is better but the economy has not changed, it is still really good. Thanks for all your help. Gary
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that's good news, hope it continues to work without problems.
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Hello, I own a 02 plate vw passat 130 and I have noticed the power is gone after I rev up to 3500-4000 to over take someone as example. There is no smoke or any lights on the dash but, it is full power while I'm on the throttle and in the moment I change the gear, like 3-rth to 4-rth or 4rth to 5-th, right on the moment when I press the clutch I notice a small slow down on the acceleration. After the gear is changed, I have no power what so ever, it acts like an old diesel engine. The tricky part is that if I stop the car and put engine off and start again I have full power !!!! The car drives with no problems excepting the moment when I really want to put my foot down and leave it to go over 3500 rpm, which is not that often.
Recently I had service done, and the mechanic accidental pull off one of the vacuum pipes around the turbo and I had the same problem but was continuously, return to garage, pipe fitted back and problem solved. He drove the car before and after the pipe work and he felt the power.
Now, my question is, what can I do with the issue ? The mechanic test the car for error codes and it was clean. i do not want to replace parts just for fun.
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