Re:1994 405 2000cc 8 valve
Although apparently running OK beforehand, I was unable to insert both crank & cam locking pins (simultaneously) before removing the belt because of mistiming of an estimated 40-45 degrees (cam in advance of crank). Both locking pins were inserted when I last did the cam belt 38,000 miles ago, so it seems the belt must have slipped by 2 or 3 teeth (34 or 51 crank degrees)- is this possible without the engine running roughly? The belt appears to be in good condition and was not excessively slack.
The engine won't run when timed correctly, runs but does not pull well when the camshaft is advanced by one tooth (17 crankshaft degrees) & runs much better with the cam advanced by 2 teeth (34 crank degrees). Is the ignition timed off the crank or the camshaft & can the engine management partially compensate for mechanical mistiming?
I am unable to resolve this myself - help please!
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Bob,
Please stop experimenting with a few teeth this way , a few teeth that. Disaster looms.
Very unlikely your timing belt has slipped if the tension seemed OK, there was no damage to it and the engine ran well.
Trust me there will be nothing wrong with the basic pin setting for your car unless the camwheel has moved on the camshaft. This shouldn't ever happen but may (very very rare) if the woodruf key shears. It is well worth pulling the camwheel off to double check this.
If that is OK go back to first principles with the timing pegs. Are you sure you are doing this on the correct firing stroke with the crank in the right place?? Pop a spark plug out to make sure.
On the 2.0 engine I think you'll find the hole in the crank pulley is 10mm but the hole behind that the timing peg locates into is only 8mm. The proper tool is stepped. This isn't causing any confusion is it??
I assume your engine has the distributor on the end of the camshaft opp to the timing belt. With this setup get the timing belt right and the ign setting will be right.
Good luck.
David W
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