Hi, have just seen this forum and thought I'd run my problem past the knowledgeable readership...
Wrote this on another forum last week:
Was driving my 54 2.0 TDCi 115 on the M50, mucking about a little with the cruise control being a bit lazy. Went through some roadworks at 40 then when I tried to pick up speed again the glow plug light started flashing on the dash and engine was very slow to respond.....eventually called the AA out and the very nice man plugged his lappie in and came up with error code P1330 "injector control pressure lower than desired". He tried changing a sensor (don't ask which I'm not very mechanical!) which didn't work, but said it should be OK to drive home which it was, was just a little slower and much more economical than usual. As this was on a Saturday evening wasn't able to take it to a garage on the Sunday and now I wont be able to get a day off work 'til next Sat. It's a 40 mile commute to work and I'm pretty sure the car will make it fine (as I drove back 90 miles in limp mode earlier today), but was wondering if I'll be doing any lasting damage to the car by leaving it for a week? I plan to take it to Ford dealers on Saturday and see what they say then. Any ideas on what it could be? AA guy said engines are usually pretty good so shouldn't be a major job.
Since then:
I've had to use it to get to work and back and apart from reduced pick up it drives OK and can hit 80 on a good flat stretch. I tried booking in to Fords for Saturday but no luck so I've had a good read on the net and have realised that the flashing glow plug lights can be anything from £15 worth of work up to £2000! When I turn the ignition the engine management light comes on and the coolant/aircon light (? I think- the snowflake light) goes from amber to red. When I start the engine the glow plugs light starts flashing above 2000 revs.
From what I've read the possible causes could be (starting with cheapest option)
Camshaft sensor
Crankshaft sensor
Pressure sensor on fuel pump
Fuel filter and fuel gauge sender unit
ECU recalibration and recoding injector
EGR valve
Reconditioning injectors
New Injectors
So starting with the cheapest option first I've replaced the cam shaft sensor (which is what the AA man did) and reset the ECU and no change. I've got a crankshaft sensor from Ford and will change this next - if anyone can be kind enough to tell me where it is! I'm not too familiar with cars but will give anything a try. If this doesn't work i'll take it to an independent diesel specialist and go from there.
Am I doing the right sort of thing? It drives OK and to be honest I can't manage without it for the time being cos of work commitments. Has anyone had the same error code P1330 - injector control pressure lower than desired? Any help/opinions appreciated!
Also, am in Gwent so if anyone knows of a reputable diesel injection specialist would be grateful.
Edited by Pugugly on 11/10/2008 at 19:08
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Hi Aztech - Sorry to hear of your problem. I'm afraid I can't help you with the diagnosis but can only suggest a way of dealing with the practicalities.
Strikes me that even if you do get it in to a garage for assessment at the weekend that in all likelihood they will say something like "it needs a new flingel widget sir, we'll have to order that in I'm afraid"...........
I would look into getting a cheap hire car organised. Often the best value deals are for three days which might be about right to allow for the job to be assessed, parts ordered and job done. Also reduces your stress or the need for time off.
Non-technical superstition would cause me to be concerned about continuing to use the car until it's fixed in case this compounds the problem but like I say I wouldn't really know.
Good luck. Let us know how you get on.
Edited by Humph Backbridge on 11/10/2008 at 16:50
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You've got a low fuel pressure code as the only clue and you're in limp-mode; as to what can cause that:-
Camshaft sensor..... No Crankshaft sensor..... No Pressure sensor on fuel pump.... Possible but unlikely Fuel filter and fuel gauge sender unit..... Filter yes; but only possibly ECU recalibration and recoding injector..... No EGR valve..... No Reconditioning injectors.... Not possible on Delphi injectors New Injectors.... You'd better hope not!
So the garage needs to do a pressure check, followed by an individual injector leak-off rate test. If the injectors are OK; they'll need to think about air getting into the fuel line or a failing pump.
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thanks for the input guys.
Have read somewhere that it could also be the fuel lift pump so add that to the list too!
If it costs more than few hundred to fix I'll get rid of it as is, otherwise going to sell it as soon as it stops showing the error code. I'll steer clear of non-German common rail diesels for the foreseeable future. Might as well just stick to a petrol Toyota from now on.
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No tank pump on a TDCi - some TDDis only. The suction pump is part of the HP pump.
Steer clear of all common rails - period.
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Getting a dealer to read fault codes is priority. And get a diagnosis before any work is done because, for instance, it seems that some dealers will replace injectors when recoding is all that is required.
Apparently a good source of injectors etc:
www.uniteddiesel.co.uk/diesel_injectors/ford/
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I have just experienced this fault on my 2004 tdci. When started and the engine was idling no light, but when it was reved the flashing light appeared and it went into safe mode. I have had it checked by two different garages, the first found no fault code and could not help, the second only found on his diagnostic screen a message that said "No string found", I got a load of technical garbidge about him having to contact the machine's technical department regarding this and then it would become a two part fix (think he wanted to up the bill).
As my car is a taxi it needs to work so today I thought it was worth a mess about. I noticed that safe mode was when the dump valve in the turbo remained open thus no turbo boost. I started by removing every sensor connector I could find cleaning and blowing out with a air line, I had a fiddle with the switches located on the clutch and brake pedal and finally decided to wedge closed the turbo dump valve. I then started the engine and reved it to the red line, hey presto no flashing light and full turbo pressue. After turning off the engine I removed the wedge I had placed to keep the valve shut, crossed my fingers and restarted. Yes it worked perfectly the dump valve was open till the engine started then moved to the shut position, turbo pressure and no flashing light, have just driven 35 miles with no problem. When the engine is turned off the valve then returns to the open position. Not sure what happened but at the moment it is fine.
Maybe worth a try.
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Thanks for the replies.
Did change the cam sensor but no change, have bought a crankshaft position sensor which I'll try to change once I figure out where it is. Do have the Haynes manual but would need an idiots illustrated guide :)
Will play with the dump valve when some kind soul tells me where that is too!
Have done 1000+ miles on it so far as is, saw a mechanic who advised I service it, replacing the fuel filter before going further.
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Just to add...
mechanic said if it was the fuel pump (which he thought it might well be) not to bother with a second hand one as they cost £150ish plus £150 fitting (and will likely not do anything) & as the new ones are around £600ish, to consider getting rid in an auction. Its a 54 plate 2.0 115TDCi, 135K....any ideas on what range it should fetch?
Edited by aztech on 04/11/2008 at 18:21
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Screwloose, I read your posts and I believe you to be very knowledgeable. However you say stay clear of Common Rails. You don't really think to highly of VW PD engines. You say that once a diesel car is nearly out of warranty get rid of it.
Well if one wants to buy a medium family sized diesel around the 1.6 to 1.9 engine size then what do you recommend??
The VW engines, there is a lot of technical information about. Is it not the of better the devil you know and to buy a car with known problems, which makes it easier to repair. Without having to go to the dealerships and getting ripped off.
You opinion as always is greatly valued.
Thanks
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While not being a great fan of later VW's build quality - despite the amount of work it brings me - the PD has proved itself to be the only viable high-tech diesel injection system.
Just use exactly the right oil and don't touch an ARL.
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Screwloose thanks for your reply. I would have thought that putting injectors inside a head was not a good long term thing to do.??
I also did not think that an engines life that was too dependant in the use of an exact type of oil was such a good idea either.
I was hoping you would have suggest the VW GT TDI ( 110bhp). since by now all the problems associated with this car are well documented and known. Plus it a engine that gives very very good MPG figures. Something which cannot be said for the PD engines.
Found this link for those people who may not understand VW engine codes.
www.vagweb.co.uk/forums/about28.html
Screwloose once again thank you for your advice.
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Finally solved this problem for good....got rid of car....best move I have ever made.
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Without wishing to play the numbers game, the 1.9 PD engines pre-DPF gave a very impressive compromise between performance and economy.
My car has the 1.9 AWX engine in a heavy body. Normally, it's a tow car, a job in which it excels. On holiday when unhitched and not in a hurry, it managed 800 miles to a tank - much of this with the cruise set to 65 mph (indicated) on the motorway.
That suits me fine.
There's no problem putting injectors inside the engine - compared with the combustion chamber where the tip lives, it's a breeze. Likewise, wire of suitable specification is not a problem - military engines are full of it. The connectors on the injectors themselves are a bit marginal though - it would have been better if Bosch/VAG had used better ones. Luckily, replacements are cheap and easy to fit. The basic PD fuel system is reliable. Many high perforamce engines these days are oil specific - this is not a problem, you just put the right stuff in.
659.
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659FBE, thank you for your reply. You posted something similar about your opinion on PD engines in the Discussion forum.
The reason why I kind of like the VW Golf GT TDI is that it is a car who's problems are very well known.Solutions to these problems are widely documented on the internet.
Replacing injectors or getting them recon'd or even fitting new glow plugs does not appear to be a problem. Nor do they require special tools for doing the job.
The same cannot be said for the PD injectors or the replacing the glow plugs.
Basically what I am trying to say that in this day and age of being ripped off by dealerships, where the technician like screwloose mentions a lot, is that they don't know what they are doing. Instead of locating the exact fault, the dealerships just seem to replaced parts and get joe public to pay for it. Not really what should be happening.
Cheers
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UPDATE:
Must have done at least 1500+ miles in limp mode. Eventually got round to servicing it myself on Sunday - or at least changing oil + filter, fuel filter, air filter (never even got round to changing the crank sensor). Drove it (5miles) yesterday after servicing and no change, same this morning on way in to work (20miles). Got into the car this evening, pulled out at a junction and almost jumped out my seat! Power was back to normal and picks up fine. Can only presume it was the fuel filter that was partially blocked, although I did tip out the old one to find a few flakes of what looked like some sort of limescale type impurities.
Once home I tried to restart the car and it wouldnt respond, which has been happening every now and then for last few weeks, nothing major just requires a few turns to crank it and it starts first time when it cranks. The engine management light has been on for a few weeks too, which I thought was because it needed a service, the last one being 11.5K miles ago.
The only other thing I've been doing is adding double dose redex to every fuel change, sometimes Wynne injector treatment. I remember a couple of weeks before the error code (P1330) I had let the tank run down to zero miles (which I wont be doing ever again) so presume this is what was responsible.
Question now remains- do I keep the car because it's a great drive when it works, or sell it before something major goes on it?!
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sell it now, don't use it until sold. Then get a petrol car without all the Krap complications derv donkeys have now.
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I'd go round the engine bay and unplug and plug back in each sensor several times.
Cured mine the last time it started flashing the glowplug light. I know it won't cure all of them but its so cheap its got to be worth a try.
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Easyy to follow instructions for changing the cam position sensor are at:
www.pc-point.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3
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adnanrana,
if you haven't already done so, then out of courtesy, (if nothing else) perhaps you ought to send HJ a polite email asking if it's ok to promote a website with which you have connections on his.
DD> BR Moderator.
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The car is suffering from a very common ford/jaguar problem the egr valve + intake manifold are chocked up they require removing and cleaning or in the case of the egr replacing symptoms are flashing glowplug light and limphome mode.There are two types the older ones are vacuum controlled and the later ones are electronic which moves onto a further problem the later ones have an electronic actuator for the turbo and this goes faulty it bakes itself and cannot be bought seperately or split , unit complete with turbo is £670+vat retail.The actuator has a mini ecu which when it reconises a fault puts the car into limp home mode and puts the glowplug light on, the causes are normally a faulty unit or the most common the turbo is chocked up the electronic EGR and the actuator are linked via the actuator ecu so this is why they both when faulty give the same result.Incidently the problems with egr valves and turbos in the UK are quite common whereas in mainland europe quite rare the difference is there is very little cheap supermarket fuel on the mainland.
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