Really as the title suggests, im after an oil extractor that will fit throught the dipstick tube to remove the engine oil. The reason for this is although the car has been regularly serviced by the same garage for six years (with annual oil changes) they used the extraction method, and the sump plug has not been moved in that time and it shows, i cant move it and its to risky to take to a garage.
Anything less than £30 will do as long as it removes most the oil
many thanks
|
|
I use a "Pela 6000" oil extractor for my interim oil changes. I find it very quick and effective if the oil is hot. If you google "pela oil extractor" you will find many sellers.
|
If you google "pela oil extractor" you will find many sellers.
And if you search this forum [on Google if you wish by adding the term honestjohn.co.uk ] you will find many references to it here too.
Edited by jbif on 11/09/2008 at 12:58
|
Very interesting thread for the DIY motorist as so many modern cars have underbody trays with numerous fixtures holding them in place.
Sadly for me, though my Panda 4x4 has a heavy sumpguard which, due to its weight is hard to remove and replace, it is the oil filter that is hard to access not the sump plug so one of these devices would not helpmuch.
|
As good an idea as the pumps are - I still much so prefere the old method of dropping it through the sump drain plug, Yes I know and I fully empathise that this is difficult as said by others but to me, this way, also 'cleans the engine debris' from the area it is designed to be collected and cleaned from - the sump.
I have done this for as long as I have been home servicing and it is a method taught to me by another ----->
***You do this with the engine warm***
When I have dropped the oil I place 2 litres of diesel oil in the engine and run the engine over (on tickover) for 1 min using the diesel as a flushing medium.
I then top up the diesel level to the oil fill level with cheap engine oil to help carry & flush the diesel & debris, again running up the engine on tickover for a few mins and then drop the lot.
I very briefly (10 seconds on tickover) run the engine with the sump plug out to get anything caught up in the system flushed out and to the sump so it too may drain.
Whilst the oil is draining I remove & change the filter and after a good 10 mins (usually a cuppa & a biscuit or two later) the sump plug goes back it with a new washer.
I then re fill the engine oil with good quality stuff (currently Unipart 10w40 semi synth) run the engine to operating temp & check and if required top the level off.
The oil/diesel mix gets painted on to the wooden fencing I have and beats Creosote hands down!
|
|
Just another point: the recommended torque for the sump plug on MBs is a mere 25Nm. To get it in perspective, you can apply that same torque to an oil filter lid or a spin-on filter with your hands, but of course you can't do that with a sump plug. Compare that with the 110Nm required for wheel bolts. There is no point at all in overtightening a sump plug, apart from giving a Junior Spanner Controller at a quick-change shop a macho feeling.
|
|
|
Tron - I hope no-one follows your oil change regime. It's awful!
Car engines are designed to run using oil in the sump - not diesel!
If you use a good oil, like the types recommended in your car's manual, and change it at the right interval, you won't have a problem with gunk in the engine.
In other words, not only is your routine unnecessary, it's also probably damaging your engine.
There's also nothing wrong with using a pump to extract the oil - on many engines, you actually get *more* oil out that way. If there's "debris" in there, you have bigger problems than opening the sump bolt is going to cure!
|
|
Gosh Tron, no wonder you have debris tumbling out of your sump plug hole with such extreme mechanical abuse.
|
|
|
>>Car engines are designed to run using oil in the sump - not diesel!
I think he said diesel "oil" which is supposed to have additional detergents in it which some believe add cleansing qualities to the process.
I too have a Pela unit and it works a treat extracting exactly what the handbook says is the oil quantity in our Passat as our interim oil change. Just done the job on my Legacy and the filter as well which is on the top of the engine, easily accessible.
|
>>I think he said diesel "oil"
Yes, it's not clear, however, Tron goes on to say
----------8<----------
...using the diesel as a flushing medium.
----------8<----------
Either way, running the engine, even for 10s without any oil in the sump isn't sensible.
|
|
|
|
|
When I have dropped the oil I place 2 litres of diesel oil in the engine and run the engine over (on tickover) for 1 min using the diesel as a flushing medium.
I very briefly (10 seconds on tickover) run the engine with the sump plug out to get anything caught up in the system flushed out and to the sump so it too may drain.
You're a lot braver than I am Tron. Why not go the whole hog and tip a bottle of Cillit Bang in?
|
|
|
|
|
|
I also use a Pela 6000 - came from Seamark Nunn I think. Chandlers keep them as they are used a lot on boats, where it's often not possible to collect the oil under the engine. The tube that goes down the dipstick hole looks a lot like the outer of a bicycle brake Bowden cable. Works fine.
|
|
Go for a Pela.... the very best at what they do.
|
My last Astra, from new, M reg 1.4 Swing had this done to it once a year.
When I sold it last year with 170k hassle free motoring on the clock it was still going strong and it was my sons friend that used it as a trade in that led to its demise.
Ok - so I am probably wrong here using diesel fuel oil as an engine flush on modern day aluminium engines and it may have been the case when car engine where made from cast iron that it was a requirment (yes that long ago....) to do this.
The the old boy I once worked with was given this technique to clean the inside of engines not made 'as well in comparison' with and I guess modern day aluminium engines with their fine engineering and tolerences; they have a lot less metal debris coming off them?
I do know of other home mechanics that run the engine up for no more than turning it over to 10 seconds of tickover maximum - to pull the last few drops of old engine oil from their vehicles engines ensuring that the oil change is as clean as they can get it.
I am, the next time I go in to Vauxhall going to ask them what they use as an engine flush.
|
I am the next time I go in to Vauxhall going to ask them what they use as an engine flush.
I would be surprised if any garages flush the engines these days.
|
I would be surprised if any garages flush the engines these days.
My local Ford dealer asked me if I wanted my engine flushed during a service. At the price quoted it must be a good earner, I declined the offer.
|
|
|
|
|
Tron, 10min break is not long enough, even with hot oil. Leave overnight to drain - you may be surprised at the amount of gunk there is in a clean tray the following morning!
|
|
|
>>I am, the next time I go in to Vauxhall going to ask them what they use as an engine flush.
The Vauxhall garage where I worked will happily sell you a Forte flush - it's a good earner for them. It's added to the old oil, prior to the oil change, and the engine is warmed up for 10 minutes or so with it in the system.
Flushing oils are a waste of time and money IMO.
If you perform simple oil changes and filter changes at the manufacturer's recommended interval, using oil that meets or exceeds the manufacturer's spec, you'll be OK.
Since the mid 1980's oils have been *much* cleaner running - it isn't the use of aluminium, or "modern" engines, it's just the oil is much better than it was.
>>ensuring that the oil change is as clean as they can get it.
A serious waste of effort, and really damaging for the engine - not only for the time you run without oil, but then for the extra time to re-prime the pump when you start it up again. If you really want to be deviant about oil changing, just do it more often, without the "trimmings"!
|
|
|
|
|
