Maybe this is a common feature, but after starting up my automatic 2.0 16V omega GLS 99/T in the mornings and driving off, I find there is very little acceleration pull given the revometer whizzes up to around 2000 rpm. After it warms up it seems fine. Perhaps this is normal as this is the first automatic I have owned, but I find you need to build the revs much higher to pull off from cold that when it warms up.
Simon
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My 1965 Mk 1 Triumph 2000 automatic was very sluggish pulling away from cold but I haven't noticed it on the other automatics that I have owned, but these have all had more powerful engines.
I haven't driven the 2-litre Omega but I should think that an engine of that capacity coupled to an automatic box on a heavyish car is not likely to give sparkling acceleration at any time. With the small power loss of a cold engine, plus perhaps a small amount of internal sluggishness in a cold gearbox, a noticeably slower pull-away from cold seems quite likely.
GM auto boxes are renowned for their reliability and longevity, assuming that is the make fitted to your car. If it is a Japanese box as fitted to the later Cavaliers, etc., this also has an excellent reputation. So long as the fluid level is correct there should be nothing to worry about. A low fluid level is likely to give you a slow pull-away.
I expect you know that the engine should be idling and at normal operating temperature when checking the fluid level on most automatic boxes. You would need to consult your handbook to confirm that this is the case with yours. If the engine is not running, an artificially high reading will appear on the dipstick.
Not much help but the best I can do. Does anyone one else have any ideas or answers?
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Thanks Dizzy for that helpful and reassuring advice! I have noticed that only when cold does the engine rev more when pulling off from standing - thumbing through the haynes manual for this car it does mention that the gearing will take place at higher revs until normal engine temperature is reached so as to speed up the process, so perhaps this is the case. I'll ask the local dealer to do a quick level check on the oil though, just to be sure, as long as they dont charge me something ridiculous! I have to be honest reading some of the threads on this group has scared me a bit on what main dealers charge for certain replacements and servicing on these vehicles!! Obviously I want to spot anything out of the ordinary early if it helps reduce expenditure!
Regards
Simon
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Glad to be of help, Simon.
As for checking the auto box oil level, does the Haynes manual tell if there is a dipstick and where it is located? If there is one (and there isn't always) it is likely to be in the engine compartment and checking the level is exactly the same as checking the engine oil level, except that the engine must be idling at the time.
Some main dealers worry me as well, and not only for their charges. Many years ago a colleague at work mentioned that his Ford Capri automatic wasn't changing gear properly and the dealer had advised him that he needed an exchange gearbox. He was worried about the expense and asked for advice so I drove the car up and down the car park at lunchtime to experience the fault for myself. I then stopped and checked the oil level, with the engine running, and it was almost off the bottom of the dipstick. The owner was surprised that I had left the engine running and said that the dealer had checked the level with the engine switched off. When the level was brought up to the mark - with the engine running - the fault disappeared!
That's the last story from me for now - my PC is going to be out of action for a few days. Hey, wipe those smiles from your faces!!
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I wouldn't worry about it at all. Mine's a 2.5 and it's just the same - I think the auto box is just compensating for the cold engine. The point where the car changes up a gear is completely different in a cold engine to a warm engine, which I suppose makes sense. By all means get it checked, but I suspect it'll be fine.
Welcome to the wonderful world of Omega ownership. You're a very lucky man.
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I'm sure pleased with this car, having paid just £5K for it together with a part ex on my 157K miles L-reg Cavvy! (now theres a car that would probably reach interstellar mileage!) Its a T-reg 99, with 88K on the clock but absolutely immaculate and in metallic diamond black with air con, automatic.
By the way if anyones interested, mine is a GLS so doesnt come with all the gadgets of the higher models. However I am in the process of fitting rear courtesy lights myself, I noticed the apertures are there in the rear handles, though sadly the wiring looms are not. The lamp units cost me just £6 from vauxhall so all I need to do now is to try and run some wiring from the main courtesy lamp. Anyone got any hints on doing this, I hope I dont need to upset the headlining too much and that the delay fade circuitry on the main courtesy lamp will handle the extra current.
Simon
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You may even find the wiring is already there for the lights.
How about fitting door lights - I did in my MV6 - you should find the wiring there also - taped up against the waterproof membrane inside the door trim panels.
Regards ............... Robert
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I didn't completely remove the trim above the doors as I was afraid of not getting the clips back in (couldn't quite see how they work). Anyway managed to slip the wiring in under the trim (alongside the aerial coax cable) and then under the headlining to the centre courtest lamp. I noticed the courtest lamp in my omega is the intelligent one which fades up and down when you unlock the car or lock it, so I connected a small relay to the existing lamps (not to overload the electronics) which turns on the rear lights. Definitely a big improvement for the rather dark black interior!
I would be very interested in trying to fit the door lights, though not sure how difficult it is to remove the door trim panels and make the necessary holes for them. If the wiring is there, I might have a go..! I wonder if anyone else has a GLS and had the door panel trims off?
Simon
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Hi Simon,
If you havn't got a Haynes manual I suggest you get one. It tells you quite clearly how to get the door trim panels off.
From memory, the door lights are only £6 or so - but in the front doors you will need to fit new door pockets as these hold the door lights. For the rear doors you will need to "be bold" and make the cutouts in the door panels yourself.
Regards ..... Robert
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Hi,
Its actually supposed to do this. You will have noticed the engine also makes an additional noise when cold - its the secondary air injection pump.
These two measures (one on a manual) help with emissions.
You will get used to it after a while!
Regards .............. Robert
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Wow you must have read my mind..! Just drove back from the city and I noticed when starting off a strange but quiet "breathing" noise. I normally have the radio on, but it was a very quiet evening and no sound in the car so a chance of listening out for noises! The noise was only occasional and during the first minutes of driving from cold, it sounded as though it was somewhere near the heater controls. I assume it's what you mention?
Simon
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The way you can guarantee to hear it is to start from cold, and let it tick over with the heater/ac & radio switched off. The noise will stop after a minute or so.
Open the bonnet - you will really notice it stop then!
Lok in the Haynes manual and you will see the secondary air injection pipework. BTW - one of the rubber hoses is a cmmon failure on V6 Omegas @ 55/60k miles - not sure about the 2.0's though.
Hope this helps ......
Robert
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