I've had this limp mode (Turbo?) problem on my Ford Galaxy 1.9tdi for over 12 Months now intermittently, had car from new only done 22k miles genuine, Ford Garage originally said suspect Turbo fault (didn't trust them), so i let my local Diesel specilist have it to sort out the problem.
First time they had car they said wastegate was sticking and underboosting said should be o.k. now, but it wasn't.
They had car again said now stripped turbo to inspect, free tight vane assembly, re assemble and test, said again should be o.k. but still has the same problem goes in limp mode (lack of power) mainly occurs going up hills and gradients.
Returned to so called diesel specialists for a third time, there report as follows, interrogate EDC System (KTS 650), boost pressure above limit, remove belly plate, check turbo wastegate, remove supply + fit 1 boost converter, re-assemble, start clear fault road test no fault recorded.
On return to me, the fault does not happen as often but it's still there, and it's a dangerous fault to have especially when overtaking!, the last time it happened i only turned the air con. on and the car went straight into limp mode, pulled up switched off and back on again fault cleared, yes VW Sharran rubbish, garrett turbo i think,are these garages missing the obvious!, surely turbo faults at less than 20k are not right.
To add from one of the above visits to my so called diesel specialist, the car seemed to acquire a whirring noise on revving engine.
|
They seem to be contradicting themselves. Either it's underboosting [code 17964] or overboosting [17965.]
The latter is, by far, the most common; a large proportion, but not all, of which are caused by coked-up vanes in the VNT turbos - something that is often caused by lack of exercise.
What is a "boost converter?"
|
RE: Boost converter thats what they put on invoice, anyway i've got the part in front of me it says on it, PIERBURG GERMANY, 400.00 >PA6.6-GF35<, 02.025, APG.12v, 100 906 627 05/02, 7.229903.20, 021039, ATM, VAC out, Strewth glad it's not cash.
They've had the car over period of three months, lack of excercise, on second garage visit they said the vanes cleaned and free'd off. Is it something you've just gotta live with, or get something else, No TD's for me in the future
|
That sounds like the wastegate vacuum solenoid. Ask them for the exact codes.
Did they send the turbo away for proper cleaning; or just have a scrape?
|
|
The diesel specialists (engineers), advertise to diagnose & rectify faults on all types of diesel vehicles, said they have the gear to clean the turbo vanes, after the third attempt i lost interest in them. does it sound like this is still the problem?.
|
Without anything concrete to go on, it's difficult to say.
There are a lot of "specialists" around that are good at writing adverts.....
|
|
Reference previous discussions re this problem I have an identical situation and gone through the same problems with a 115bho turbo Zetec Auto. MAF meter and Sensor replaced. Brake Pedal Switch replaced. Hoses pressure tested - no air leaks. Turbo chemically cleaned. No engine management light shows and until recently no fault code. Finally got a fault code 17964 so what do I do now or where do I go from here. It was suggested in the past that the only way to cure the problem was a new turbo - guess what. they would not guarantee that it would resolve the problem. At this stage I would gladly go for it if I knew it would.
|
It's amazing how few places seem to be able to deal effectively with this endemic fault.
Either it's a control system fault; MAP/Boost/Thrust sensor; N75 turbo control solenoid; vac hose leaks etc. - a boost leak; intercooler/hoses - or it's going to be the turbo; actuator or vanes sticking.
I've never heard of in-situ products helping; but stripping the turbo and getting it properly blast-cleaned is usually the best option, as re-con turbos have a bad rep.
|
|
Ta for the prompt reply. I can tell you are as miffed as me about the lack of solving the problem. I am a numpty who relies on others for solution. Does the code 17964 help you with what I should do next or replace first. I am not skint yet but dont want to go down the turbo line Should I start with replacement of a MAP/Boost/Thrust Sensor. (any idea of cost of itme or fitting time)
|
If any component is suspected; then it's function should first be tested. In the case of a coked turbo; this is done by applying vacuum to the turbo actuator with a calibrated pump and observing how smoothly it returns once vacuum is released.
|
|
|
|
|
See my post of Wed 12 Nov 08 14:39. did you get any further with resolving your problem. dont tell me you sold the vehicle.
|
|
Ta for the turbo idea. The fault code 17964 showed "Charge Pressure Control Present - Malfunction. I know how difficult/frustrating this is for you but I could with a steer in the right direct before I part with any more hard earned wedge. The vehilce has done 138000 miles with full history. I am not against having the turbo checked and if that shows detrioration in the actuator etc I shall have to take it from there but could first do with clarification on your thought on the fault code reading. Perhaps being nieve when it comes to cars I am expecting too much from you. I would say getting despearte but that would be insult to your help and you are making more sense than most at the minute..
|
17964 is "Charge control pressure not reached" - or underboost for short. Unlike it's overboost twin [17965] it's nearly always the turbo coked solid or a boost leak.
Systematic diagnosis, of both codes, is neither simple or easy and requires tools and experience. Unfortunately; the alternative is shovelling large sums of money at it and hoping to get lucky.
The actuation test is more to see how the vacuum capsule is moving than to check the actuator itself - if it's reluctant to move, then it's a fair bet that it's the vane ring stuck with coke.
This may help you understand what goes wrong:-
www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-T...l
|
|
Ta for time and effort. If it turns out to be the turbo - you mentioned blasting. Any knowledge of where I might get it done. Im in South Yorkshire.
|
There is a simple but crude way to test the VNT actuator. Remove the rubber vac hose from the actuator being careful not to crack it if it's stuck. These rubber pipes perish and the cotton braiding on the outside hides it.
With the engine off, take a longer piece of suitable hose and connect it to the actuator. Feel under the actuator with your fingers for the control rod. Suck fairly hard by mouth on the other end of the tube and check that with fairly hard and concerted sucking, you can get the control rod to move smoothly by about 20mm. Assuming you are able to achieve full stroke by mouth, put your tongue over the end of the pipe and check that the actuator does not move back - 10 or 15 secs should be enough. Now release the vacuum with your tongue and check with your fingers that the actuator returns smoothly and fully. Finally, blow down the pipe and check that the actuator does not move further - ie. it's on its stop.
A crude test, but it tells you quite a lot, especially if you check a few as I have done. You are looking for smooth movement without "stiction" such that , within the limits of fairly simple components, a defined vacuum will give a corresponding rod position - every time. Don't expect zero stiction - the boost controller is in a feedback loop on the engine to minimise the effects of this in use, but it must move throughout its travel.
I check mine this way every service - it's a cheap check.
659.
|
|
Hi i have just had the same problem its been in to be tested and the only thing they came up with was a worn bearing in the turbo, i have a AA 5 star cover and when the repor went back to them they said its not coverd they say its wear and tear the garage wants £850 to replace the turbo but will it cure the problem of loss of power mine is the same turbo cuts out turn off and restart and its back, how could that be a turbo fault its no joke when your 68 just cant get into my head that if you turn it off and re-start it runs again when the turbo is a macanical ??
|
|
|
|
|
hi after reading this i woundered if you got your car fixed.i have one myself and is doing exactly the same, i have replaced the afm and it is still making a whirling noise and still going into limp mode. could you help me in any way??????? cheers
|
|
|
