For several years I have often struggled (but succeeded) in doing oil changes with a chain wrench to remove filter. This weekend the Fiesta's filter (not rusted) was really tight and I ended up just breaking links on spanner. So popped out and bought some Oil filter pliers, one turn and hey presto!. I see you can also get strap wrenches as well, but Oil Pliers the best thing to remove stubborn filters without resorting to whacking a long screwdriver or bar through it or is their something better still?
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If it wouldn't budge, I've always resorted to the long screwdriver myself, having said that I haven't done one for a while....
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Speaking of filters, why do some manufacturers *cough* Honda *cough* mount them tilting downwards? They never drain completely, so removing one involves emptying the remaining oil down the side of the engine.
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They never drain completely so removing one involves emptying the remaining oil down the side of the engine.
They are not supposed to drain at all. A proper oil filter has a non return valve to stop oil in the filter and upper oil galleries draining back into the sump when you switch off.
The sign of a good filter is that you get a gush of oil when you unscrew it. Just be prepared.
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I invested in a set of filter pliers a few years ago which are a far tidier and more elegant solution than the admittedly effective screwdriver method.
Then I bought the Volvo which has a replacable element rather than a screw on cartridge. The "casing" of the filter is actually re-used, so no screwdrivers here!
Cheers
DP
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>>Speaking of filters, why do some manufacturers mount them tilting downwards?
Some BMC 'B' series had standing filters, that is opening facing down, with a non-return valve built in, so all the oil emptied on removal.
Application charts weren't always correct, and often quoted a fitment without the valve. I think it cost Halfords a few bob in replacement engines - another reason for me trying to avoid them!
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I was brought up in our family garage and we always refilled the engine oil but left the filter off while we purged the oilways in the engine.
This was done ( I still do this) by disconnecting the coil or removing the plug leads and spinning over the engine using the starter motor until the oil that was pumped out of the filter housing into a container turned from black gunge to nice clean oil.
Of course you will lose some new oil while this is being done but at least you have done a COMPLETE oil change.
NB DO NOT ALLOW THE ENGINE TO START WITHOUT THE OIL FILTER IN PLACE!!!!
Then we had fun cleaning the mess but it was worth it :)
Billy
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I assume these new filters with just the internal element to replace are more environmentally friendly. My old Hillman Imp had one!
However, one benefit of the new (post 1970) spin on ones, was that one could see the filter had been replaced, and even the most unskilled garage mechcanic could do it. It may be a small but important element in why car engines now last so much longer, ie proper oil filtration. How will anyone now ever know their filter was replaced, and properly replaced at that?
As always, DIY.
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How will anyone now ever know their filter was replaced and properly replaced at that?
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I know mine's been done by the new knurl marks in the flats on the end of the plastic filter housing, from the mole grips that they use at the dealers, instead of using a socket.
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How will anyone now ever know their filter was replaced and properly replaced at that?
I know because either I DIY, or if I'm feeling lazy, have a mate do it who I trust implicitly.
If he says it's done, it's done.
Cheers
DP
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"For several years I have often struggled (but succeeded) in doing oil changes with a chain wrench to remove filter"
What were you doing them up with..? :-)
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Mercedes-Benz sell special tools for dealing with oil filters, so perhaps other manufacturers do as well. They are not expensive (less than £10) and work a treat, especially when the filter is in a pig of a position making access difficult. The tool I bought works with both the lid of the canister on the M104 and the spin-on filters of the M103 engines (part no. MW103 589 02 09/00).
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It varies from car-to-car;over the years I've needed filter pliers,chain wrench and strap wrench and,on the odd occasion,screwdriver thro' the side-it all depends on access.And they should only be done up by hand.
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A tip, which I think I picked on this forum, is that once the filter is a bit loose wrap a carrier bag around it to catch the oil that dribbles out. Saves a lot of mess.
I find the strap wrench the most versatile. Having said that, when I remove a filter that I previously fitted it usually loosens by hand without the need for tools and I've never had one leak. Tightening technique is to just feel the seal contact the metal then turn filter a further 270 degrees.
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Most cars I have had have been the far superior paper element inside a housing with a lid, but I remember on a Mazda I had, I was able to drift the original stiff one off with a hammer and screwdriver around the seam at the base, the screw driver digs into the metal seam and short sharp taps makes it undo a couple of mm per blow, I never put them on so tight myself .
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The MB E-class owner's bible gives 20Nm as the tightening torque on a spin-on filter and suggests a further 90-degree turn after fitting firmly. There's no need for more than this.
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Did them up by hand, but it always seems to end up the garage does the service on the previous change or the car has been changed.
Never had too much problem undoing the ones I have done up myself.
I reckon the garage put them on with a strap wrench...or they don't actually change them.
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talking of oil changes, does any one know the size of the sump drain plug on a daewoo lanos 1400 ( similar to an astra so ive been told) just to save me an extra clamber under the engine...thanks ...zoo
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With most cars you are only supposed to do them up hand tight. The problem is that they can be awkward to get at - my Ford's is, without a pit - and trying to screw them on firmly while lying on the ground reaching through the front suspension with oily hands presents certain problems. However that's what I do and I don't think it's leaking.
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My old Fiat 850 had a centrifugal filter on the end of the crank. I only took it off once while I had it, IIRC it had a very long service life. It was like a stiff putty material that I scraped out, after I re-fitted it I wondered if I should have left it alone. The putty-like stuff seemed ideal for trapping metal particles.
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"centrifugal filter"
Also fitted to the Simca 1100 and (I'm told) various East European tractors. Very effective, I believe, which might make someone more suspicious than me wonder if there was some agreement between the car and filter manufacturers...
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"an extra clamber under the engine"
Torch and a mirror..?
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an extra clamber under the engine
Sure to be something very convenient like an 11mm torqs fitting, socket £11.95 plus VAT at all good tool shops.
I think you owe yourself that clamber zookeeper. Go on. It'll be much worse when you undo it and the oil goes up the sleeve of your best suit that you've neglected to take off, and you're trying to put the new filter on with oily hands.
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The grey 'rubber' seals on both types should be smeared with a little clean oil before fitting.
It also helps the seal stay in place on the metal cannister/paper filter type,
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