not really a bad job as headgaskets go, but don't bother if your not going to do the following,
headgasket,
full headset fitted (new camshaft seals, valve stem seals etc.)
new timing belt, tensioners, waterpump
new head bolts,
service rest of engine,
all the parts for the above were less than £200 the last time i did one including having the head skimmed, and if your going to the effort there's no point in not doing it properly for a couple of more hours work.
if you weren't renewing any components in the head or having it skimmed you wouldn't need to touch the camshaft or it's pulley, just lift the head off as a whole assembly.
1, park car, handbrake on
2, loosen drivers side front wheel bolts,
3, crawl under car use 22mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt, it'll probably be quite tight, once undone nip it up again not to tight,
4, open bonnet,
5, jack drivers side of car up, put on axle stand
6, remove wheel
7, loosen and remove intercooler bolts, then intercooler
8, find 6mm allen key
9, behind the starter motor there is a hole in the gearbox housing, put the allen key in it, (may be easier to undo and remove the 3 starter motor bolts)
10, get a 22mm socket put it on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft bolt clockwise whilst at the same time pushing the allen key into the hole (easier with an assistant but can be done solo) keep turning until the allen key drops into the hole(you'll understand when you do it, may have to turn the engine for quite some time reasonably slowly),
11, thats the engine now on it's timing marks,
12, now put a trolley jack and block of wood under the sump and jack it up until it takes the weight of the engine,
13, remove the left hand side engine mount, basically move the fuel primer to one side, remove the rubber bung if there, then carefully undo the 4 5/8 size bolts and remove the top half of the mount (careful engine doesn't suddenly slip of jack and trap your hand),
14, now remove the 10mm bolts holding the front cambelt cover on, then do the same for the rear cover, except there is one bolt at the back of the cover which is 11mm,
15, now looking at both of the exposed pulleys you will 2 timing holes with a threaded insert behind, on the cam pulley it's at about 4 o clock and i think 2 o clock on the fuel pump, now find the 2 short bolts from the intercooler, they are the right size to fit in the timing holes,
16, now under the arch, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and pull of the pulley,
17, now remove the lower cambelt cover, all 10mm bolts,
18, now look at the new belt tensioner and you'll see a square hole in it, find the same hole on the car, a short 3/8 socket extension will fit in there and you can then use a ratchet to apply or release the tension,
19, undo but don't remove the two bolts holding the tensioner, now use your ratchet to push the tensioner towards the windowscreen, whilst holding it there use your other hand to release the belt from behind the tensioner,
20, with the belt now loose remove it from round the rest of the components,
21, now replace the waterpump,
22, now replace both the tensioner and idler pulley, to do this you'll need to remove the rest of the metal engine mount, the bolts are quite obvious,
23, replace the belt in the same manner you removed it,
to tension the new belt pull the ratchet towards you then tighten the tensioner bolts at the same time,
24, with the tensioner tightened push the belt in the middle between the two pulleys you should have about half an inch of deflection if correct (check the old belt before removing to give you an idea),
25, now remove the two timing pins in the pulleys and the allen key,
screw the crankshaft pulley bolt into it's hole (leave the pulley off) if you keep screwing it in then the engine will turnover,
26, turn the engine over by hand at least 8 times, then put the timing pins back in as you did at the start, if you've done it all right it'll turn over with no issues
27, recheck the tension again,
28, if alls well then refit the lower cambelt cover,
29, refit the crankshaft pulley,
30, refit everything you've removed, torque all required bolts correctly (except crankshaft pulley which is done last)
31, remove the allen key (2 intercooler bolts will have already been done when fitting the covers and intercooler,
32, turn the engine over again by hand to check there's no rubbing on the cam covers or any other issues,
33, if alls well then top up the engine coolant as you'll have lost alot when doing the waterpump, bleed it properly,
34, put the road wheel back on, lower the car to the ground then torque up the crankshaft pulley bolt,
35, job done start her up then tidy up
i wrote the above for a cambelt change, you will need to do all of that and a couple of more bits to remove the head, there's not alot to it it's just time consuming. extra parts to remove will be glow plug wiring, exhaust manifold, remove it's studs from head and leave it in situ (tie a bungee cord around it and to a point on the bulkhead to keep the weight off the exhaust downpipe. inlet manifold, remove completely just a couple of bolts, use a proper allen key on them, not an allen key socket etc. as they will round off and then things become a bit tricky. thermostat housing, get new seal for bottom of the fuel filter housing where it joins the thermostat housing (dealer only). vacuum pump, 3 bolts on gearbox end of camshaft, awkward due to water hoses, just below the vacuum pump is a bracket for the water hoses, this also needs removing, 1 bolt. think thats everything, make sure you undo the headbolts in the correct order, this is very important! there a t55 torx bit available from halfords etc. when you remove the head be careful the locater doesn't fall out and get lost, when refitting the head, put the locater back in the block first, then fit the headgasket over it, and use some grease on the opposite corner to help keep the gasket in place while your putting the head on. (make sure it is the corner and not near any of the oilways/water galleries/ pistons.)
the 3 most important things you will have to have are, digital camera, marker pen, sealable sandwich bags. when you remove a component put it, and it's fittings in a sealed bag and write on it what it is. if there are more than a couple of nuts/bolts for the component or some are different lengths then take a photo of there arrangement before removing, or get some cardboard put holes in it numbered 1-4 say in roughly the same position they fit on the car and put the relevent bolt in the right hole then put in sealed bag, into cardboard box securely where the bolts won't fall out, basically proper working practices is the name of the game to doing this successfully and pain free.
think that more or less covers it, before starting the job though take the rocker cover off and measure the valve clearences, ideal time to do them as the camshaft needs removing to fit new shims, also test the glow plugs once you got the head on a bench, so much easier to do the so called hard two whilst it's out.
buy some proper penetrating fluid (plus gas gets my vote, or the loctite freeze spray), make sure you have a decent set of 6 sided sockets, make sure that any tool you use to undo a bolt fits properly and DON'T just think oh it'll be alright as the lack of space makes stripped/damaged bolts and nuts a nightmare on these, if something feels tight coming out, spray it in penetrating fluid, wind it back in a bit then in and out until it does come out, time lost here is easily worth it over dealing with broken bits. (if you haven't got the idea ive seen a few peugeot nuts/bolts break for a variety of reasons, especially both sets of manifold bolts)
chris
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