Fantastic!!
I have just this minute removed the blower motor, which was easier than i thought.
Do you know what the part looks like that i need to replace.
When I undo the 2 retaining screws the motor slips out of the casing, from there on in Im lost!!
|
Can you identify a half moon shaped device (aluminium) with cooling fins?Located between the plastic case and the fan motor blade/impellor.
|
Yes, Ive have just removed this part, is this the faulty piece.
With the cooling fins underneath I am looking down at it and there is some kind of copper device to the right, and a small silver coloured clip to the top, which had some dirt around it.
On the other side there are 2 large eye shaped metal shapes with
"Malaysia FW26925A1 90127 printed on it.
Does this help?
|
Forgot to mention, I do have air con but it doesnt work.
I found a pipe that wasnt connected tucked away at the back of the footwell. When I bought it in November was told it just needed a re-gas, I now suspect it needs a service!
|
Yes,sounds like the faulty part.It is available from Citroen,around £80.The a/c not working is a seperate issue.hth
|
£80 thats a lot of money for a small part wow.
What about a breakers, would you recommend that, or is there a fix?
I read somewhere there was a fix with a soldering iron, unless that was something else
|
How sure are you of this being the faulty part?
The dealer wants £77+vat for just that section. 247 spares etc are offering the whole blower motor with a 30 day guarantee for around £45 Would it be worth while buying from the breaker?
Thanks
Mike.
|
Are PSA still making heater fans that won't turn off? My Peugeot 205 diesel had one. It wasn't supposed to turn off. You could have it doing a silent waft or speed it up and make a noise. But the thing never stopped while the car was running.
In the end of course the motor seized and the thing overheated and filled the cabin of the car with unpleasant toxic smoke, on the road in France I seem to remember. Bad design and a PITA.
|
No mine are on full ALL the time!!
|
If you can't pull the fuse (or if as so often the fuse in question also does something else you don't want to turn off) the only solution is to cut the live wire to the motor and install a temporary in-line switch. That way at least you'll be able to turn it off even if it will only run fast. I wouldn't want to pay 80 quid for a trivial piece of switchgear either.
|
Yeah, thats a great idea.
Is it not possible to fix it?
|
Old switches whose contacts have worn out or become pitted or burned through arcing, or which have otherwise collapsed in normal use, are difficult to repair, so if you want to fix it properly you will need the correct part. If you can find a good one at a breaker's yard (or online from findparts.com or whatever it's called) it won't cost as much as the part from Citroen, but won't be new either.
|
I had same problem on 2000 Xsara 1.4 petrol. Heater constantly on full. I took the regulator, which is silver, alloy with cooling fins, coil + 2 transistors visible on it, and located in heater motor unit under nearside footwell to a guitar/amplifier repair shop. He confirmed one of transistors faulty and identified them as Darlington PNP TO3 and estimated the ampage required to be 10amps. I obtained them from RS components part MJ2501. Cost £11 for 2 inc postage. Guy in shop cleaned unit up and fitted them for £15 and it works fine. Saved me £85. Shop called Sound Idea in Hillsborough, Sheffield.
|
Help please. I have 04 Berlingo 2.0 where blower wouldn't turn off. Managed to locate and remove fuse - but where from here. Here in remote N Cornwall Citroen dealers are thin on the ground - how can I identify faulty part and get replacment?
|
Thank you 1paul1 just fixed my Berlingo using this information.
Not a very difficult job to do so for those interested tools needed...
Drill - to drill out rivets that hold the transistors in place
Soldering iron
Solder remover (sucker)
In addition to the RS part MJ2501 you will also need some suitable nuts & bolts to replace the rivets and possibly some heat transfer paste (I reused what was there). Some solder & flux.
Be carefull once old transistors are removed as the pcb & the cast alloy block come appart & between them they contain a little part that you don't want to lose.
|
Transistor datasheet here: www.mediafire.com/file/znzgm23bntk/fw26025a1.pdf
Note: there IS a manufacturer's short form selection guide that I did find, listing this transistor as an NPN device. It ain't. It's definitely a PNP Power Darlington.
A good alternative which is more readily available seems to be the MJ11015G.
The copper coloured block at one end of the circuit board is a relay that clicks in when the fan is set to run at full speed. This bypasses the transistors completely.
The little pill shaped part that sits between the circuit boad and the alloy block (heatsink) is, I think some kind of overheat protector. There's some kind of metal loaded paste on it, which I don't think would be a good idea to clean off.
|
Give that man a medal. Just fixed my Berlingo blower for £12 using the RS parts listed above. Not at all difficult, and if you drill out the four rivets one pair at a time, the PCB will not come away from the cooling block and so avoid loosing parts. Oh, the rivets are 4mm, so have some M4 bolts ready. Very satisfying little job.
|
Can anyone confirm if the blower is located in the same place for the Xsara 1.4 (2002) or if not, can helpy where it is located.
Thanks
|
HELP ... I have a similar problem, but mine doesnt come on unless it is on the high speed setting. does not work in any other setting.
Will this be a fault with the transistor as well?
cheers
Karen
|
Karen, normally when the blower fan only works on the highest setting, it's the resistor pack that has failed. The resistors govern the speed of the motor and if they're faulty, you'll only get flat out or nothing.
hth?
|
Hi .. Thanks for the info .. I'm having problems tryng to download the pictures .. Keeps saying unable to access page any ideas ? .. Paul
|
Sorry folks.
There were some issues over Easter with websites hosted by screaming.net (Now part of Tiscali) not being available for about a week.
Big bad.
Up and running now.
Edited by Fluffykins on 08/05/2009 at 14:43
|
I replaced the transistors and it worked!
£9.80 delivered from Farnell
The only thing I did differently form the available instructions was to remove and replace the transistors 1 at a time so the circuit board did not come apart - it worked for me.
|
I have a Berlingo (2004) and i too have an issue with the heating fan. Unlike most of you, my fan is not ON at all time. But the fan speed regulator only works on position 4 (maximum blow). It does not work on position 1, 2 or 3.
Do you think it's still related to a faulty relay or transistor? or the issue is in the control bloc (where the 3 buttons are located: fan, temperature and air direction)?
|
the fan speed regulator only works on position 4 (maximum blow). It does not work on position 1 2 or 3.
Usual cause is a faulty resistor pack.
|
a PNP 10amp transistor from Farnell looks suitable part cope :- 9453130
Paste the link into your browser
uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mj2501/darlington-transis...0
i think the minimum spend on credit card is £20, but they have loads of stuff that will probably save you a lot!!
|
I have a 53 Berlingo Multispace 1.6i which has also developed a blower fault but its more intermittent in nature. It started with the tell tale signs of a bad curry burning smell in the cabin indicating a heater matrix leaking. Local garage applied some treatment to the cooling system which has had some effect but not cured it completely. The engine does not appear to be losing coolant but I'm keeping a close watch.
Whist out on a trip, the heater blower failed completely which wasn't appreciated with the sub-zero temperatures outside! I stopped and checked the 40A blower fuse and it was OK. I noted a relay clicking in the passenger side dashboard footwell area with the blower switch in the leftmost and right most positions indicating that some DC power was getting down there but the fan didn't come on.
The next day after starting the engine, the blower came on unexpectedly after moving the blower switch fully left then fully right then kicking the accelerator (latter may be coincidence). The blower worked for about a week during which time there was some slight variation in the blower speed as I moved the switch, but it wasn't possible to turn it off completely. Yesterday it failed with the same symptoms as before (no activity).
I took another look today moving the heater switch around slowly left to right and back a few times then turned on the ignition. The blower came on straightaway with the same fault as before.
Thoughts? Could it be the blower switch, a possible fault in the regulator or a faulty resistor matrix?
Could slight amounts of coolant from the heater matrix lead to such an intermittent fault? The blower drain hose appears completely dry, & there's no signs of leakage in the passenger footwell area.
Did anyone have to loosen the dash to get the motor out?
Best regards,
Neil.
|
Hi all,I have this problem (blowers on full, can't turn them off!) with my Citroen Xsara 2.0 HDi 52 plate. I think my problem originates from the fact my alternator diode pack needs replacing - lights bright/dim pulsing!!! Hoping to get the alternator sorted early next week. I think the intermittent high voltage output from the alternator has blown one or more of the power transistors on the blower unit from what I've read here. The reason I'm messaging is just to reassure people and to add info on my experience of how relatively easy it is to get the blower unit out.
All I had to do was use a basic socket set and star key set from Lidl/Aldi's to remove 3 screws to drop the carpet covering under the passenger footwell - NOTE: YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE DASHBOARD AT ALL! Once this is pulled aside, there are 3 6mm hex bolts (brass coloured (2 easily visible, 1 towards the rear of the blower unit) - use a screwdriver type socket (you won't get in with a spanner). Also, just for those that don't know, the blower unit takes up a large area under the dashboard here (a good 6"+ across) - ie it's staring you in the face :) . Towards the back there is a plastic clip of sorts as part of the blower unit that you need to open by hand and release a loom of multicoloured wires (this loom is not going to the blower unit, just annoyingly passes in front of it), and at the front you need to remove a single wire connector, and a 4-wire connector (this doesn't have a release pin, it's just very stiff!). The gently pull off the 1/2" rubber hose that is attached to the blower drain port at the lower back. Pull the loom of wires from the back towards you and drop the back of the blower unit down and the whole unit will drop out into your hand.
Now with the blower unit on some paper... There are a couple of 6 mm hex bolts holding the PCB in place. Then turn the whole unit over and remove the phillips screw from the housing and the cover will come off (you'll need to remove the wire loom by the way).
To remove the transistors (big 1" jobbies!) I used a cordless drill with a 5mm drill bit to kill the rivets on the transistor side (not the PCB side) and then, if the rivets didn't fall out, finish with a 3.2mm drill bit. To remove the transistors, you'll need a soldering iron that's either good at maintaining a temp of around 350 or if you're like me and it cost £25 from Farnell, just put it higher and do it quick! Solder suck out the solder from the two pins on each transistor while pulling the transistor(s) free. My PCB was held in place by 2 locating posts (1 at each end of the PCB) that it was pressed onto - using a flat blade screwdriver you can lift the PCB off these but there is no real need. All I need to do now is get me some replacement transistors.
I think it's worth replacing both transistors for all the effort here and, to be honest, if one has blown due to a voltage spike, the other has probably been stressed and could blow any time!
Will repost on here if this sorts my problem out.
Cheers
Jimbo
Edited by JimboStlawrence on 30/07/2011 at 18:50
|
Hi,Finally back. Alternator has had its diode pack replaced, refitted, job done. I replaced the two power transistors for less than £5 total from Farnell (MJ11015G), used nuts n bolts (obviously you need to keep the length such that when fitted, they don't protude too much and scrape the fan unit). One point to note - make sure you fit the transistors first, with thermal paste, and THEN solder the legs to the board, not the other way around else you'll stress the contacts. I refitted the unit and it worked right away - and trust me, this morning, I needed the heater in the car!
Thanks to all the posts above - really helped me to sort this issue out nice and easily/cheaply.
Best regards
Jimbo
|
Thanks everybody for this brilliant thread.........sitting with this problem with my 07 Partner for the 2nd time (living in Africa). I have a couple of minor questions:
- Can I use rivets again for the new transistors or do i run the risk of cracking the board?
- Not a techy at all and have terrible soldering skills, is it ok to use a cold solder tool for the transistor posts?
- Being Africa its very tricky getting the right transistors (especially this time of year) ......... can anyone help with alternatives? What are the essential transistor criteria?
Need my fan working asap - driving in 40C+ heat is not fun without ac :(
Thanks in advance for the assist !!!
Edited by KannyGit on 29/12/2017 at 09:17
|
Here is a data sheet for the PNP transistor required www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MJ11012-D.PDF
It has to handle up to 30A so there won't be many alternatives.
Alternatives alltransistors.com/transistor.php?transistor=40350
There are plenty available through eBay www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&a...5
but some suppliers won't post things to Africa.
Maybee you know someone in Europe who could order it then forward to Africa & keep fingers crossed it arrives.
|
Here is a data sheet for the PNP transistor required www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MJ11012-D.PDF
It has to handle up to 30A so there won't be many alternatives.
Alternatives alltransistors.com/transistor.php?transistor=40350
There are plenty available through eBay www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&a...5
but some suppliers won't post things to Africa.
Maybee you know someone in Europe who could order it then forward to Africa & keep fingers crossed it arrives.
Thanks a mill for this dieselnut - much appreciated. Trying to avoid posting from EU ...... think you guessed why.......... will look at the alternative transistors <thumbs up>
|
|