Good evening sir, hope all is well. You have helped me out a lot with my car in the past and I thank you very much, remember I had the advance solenoid prob, and now the hesitation and holding back scenario. Before I sell the damn thing (or burn it) would you be able to provide me with some info. Basicly I would like to know as much info you have about my cars engine management system. Here's the vin code:
B - E11*93/81*0054*01
RV - WFONXXGCANWT55264
Q 1735 KG
8 2635 KG
54 920 KG
17 900 KG
1 - ANL
I wonder if you know the functions of the maf meter, as far as I know the maf controls air/fuel mixture, but I have read that on my specific car it only controls the egr valve? I know the potentiometer on the throttle arm controls vacuum for the egr also because I tested this myself and all works fine there, I have infact disabled the egr now which helped my poor mpg a bit. I'm determined to sort this myself (with a little help of course) as other than this running issue the car's fine. Also would you know the resistance values for all the related sensors i.e. needle lift, crank position sensor e.t.c. I'm sure there's a sensor somewhere that is not providing the advance solenoid with the info it needs to provide the extra fuel it needs when on boost. Many many thanks in advance. Martin
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 10/03/2008 at 19:01
|
Marty
Good job I've nothing else to do......
The MAF and the TPS feed into the ECU for all fuelling purposes - the EGR is only one of it's actuators.
The MAF should read 1.8 volts on terminal 1 at idle and 4.5v when blipped.
The needle lift sensor [110 Ohms @20C] only monitors the fuel timing.
The CPS should be 400 Ohms also @20C.
The timing solenoid is 12 Ohms at all times.
The fuel lever sensor should read 4850 closed; down to 2410 Ohms open.
The coolant sensor should be 37,000 @ 20C and 3700@ 80C.
The EGR solenoid is 30 Ohms @20C.
Have you actually measured the boost?
|
|
Just the info I was looking for. You don't know how much I appreciate this. Boost gauge on the way.
|
|
Right, all sensors seem to be about right according to the info you gave me SL, but the throttle position switch is nowhere near the numbers you have. I'm getting a fluctation between 1669-1730ish closed, and a very unsteady rise right up to 2000. I removed the tps completly to have a closer look and there is a worn bit on the carbon track, but I'm still not convinced that the tps has anything to do with the fueling, I'm sure it's only an open close switch for the egr solenoid. The car drives no different without the tps, and just out of interest I jammed the switch open at different positions and test drove the car round the block, no change at all.
|
Well there you go; you're the expert.
|
|
Expert.......if only. I'm just going to put up with it for now, I think I'm going to go back to petrol for a bit, especially as the price of diesel fuel has gone up quite considerably over the past few months. Thanks for your advice and time. Martin
|
|
I'm certainly no expert (just ask Screwloose) but on my old Toyota I had a severe problem with holding steady speeds. After a lot of trial and error I found that with the TPS disconnected it ran just fine. I assume the ECU used a default value instead of an optimum as provided by the TPS?
|
|
From what I've read about my engine, it has a very basic ecu, it doesn't have a too big hand in the actual running of the engine. I've totally removed the TPS now and it drives the same as before. The problem I have is that 99% of the time the car will drive normally, but it will feel a bit down on power, like the turbo isn't working, then all of a sudden it will take off at super speed and it will drive like a turbo should until the engine settles down to idle again when pulling up to a junction, after this it goes back to it's usual sluggish self. I have no idea how the whole setup works on this thing, and I totally respect screwloose for his seemingly limitless knowledge of all cars, I can imagine that trying to help people like me with there problems can get a bit annoying sometimes.
|
|
|
