Friend has recently acquired ex RAF vehicle (a van with 15,000 mls) at auction, which on way home lost speedometer, fuel and water temp gauges, as well as the indicators. Got home OK with these symptoms, and parked up.
Next day, fine all working, no problems.
Got oil changed the next day by third party, vehicle behaved itself.
Next used 2 days later, when this time it lost power. But gauges etc all OK. Driven further that day when it cleared itself (power restored). Then a warning light came on. (I assume its the MIL, the handbook apparently describes this light as "indicating an electrical fault").
Next day, attempt to start: cranks but no start. Only 2 lights on the left came on in the Cluster - no ignition warning lights, or any of the other lights which normally come on.
Next day started 1st attempt , all lights working. Not now being driven as cant be trusted.
With such low mileage, I am thinking stuck or sticking EGR valve to give the temporary power loss, but really needs a code read to be sure. However, has anyone any previous experience/knowledge of these symptoms? We don't know if it has had the 2006 recall for wiring loom carried out. Is there a way of telling by observation / part number? Any advice appreciated!
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It's losing an ignition feed somewhere. Has water got into the fusebox?
Very low miles for MOD disposal - was it sold as BER?
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This could be the old favourite of the multi-plug to the instrument pod being insecure.A very common fault on this model.This will give you lack of gauges and a non start condition.
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You've got it Doc. It hasn't had the wodge of foam fitted.
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deff sounds like dash problems ,as far as the recall is concerned the easiest way to tell if its been done is check to see if the abs unit n/s/f behind headlamp (loads of green pipes going to it ) should be covered in a plastic box the other way is to drop into dealers and give them the reg number and ask them to vauxhall care it (logs into vauxhall computer to see if any outstanding recallls) they will tell you and book for remedial work
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All - Thanks very much indeed for your valuable input. Plenty for me to investigate when I see the vehicle. I will keep you updated.
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Update:
Vehicle delivered for my attention??complete with list of 4 fault codes and descriptions obtained off Auto Electrician in the interim period.
P0704 Clutch Switch Malfunction
P1616 Instrument Control Module wrong ID
P0100 MAF Sensor
P0100 MAF Sensor low input
Road tested as received. Very flat, very difficult to get over 3000 rpm under load, but revs to 4000 + no load, so not in limp home. No black smoke at 100% pedal.
Investigated under bonnet. All seems in order, and appears not to have been ?got at?. ABS pipes not covered so ABS recall outstanding. Fuse box inspected, no sign of any water ingress, and in good condition.
Disconnected MAF, performance restored, but warning light now ON. (This has the symbol of a car with a spanner through it).
Reconnected MAF , restarted, warning light still on. Key off, wait 1 minute. Restart: Warning light OFF. Left for 1 hour.
Started & drove off. Warning light off, Normal power for first 100 yds, then reduced power, i.e. flat as before. Drove for about 1 mile at high pedal demand, low power, when suddenly normal power resumed and warning light came back ON, and stayed on. According to the owner?s manual this should mean the vehicle in Limp Home, but no way!
Got back and investigated clutch switch. Switch works, i.e. closes at pedal high, but only if you lift pedal. Tolerance issue, so added mild steel spacer to pedal arm. Always closes now.
Next examined multi plug of cluster, as recommended by Eleckie&A/C Doc. On this model, the multi plug is prevented from coming out of the cluster by being retained by the cluster mounting frame. Pin to receptacle overlap engagement looks good, approx 5mm in length. Both pins and receptacles appear to be tin-plated, not gold plated. Examined pins under magnification, all have sufficient evidence of contact with receptacles. But there is a small amount of what appears to be Silicone Grease present on some pins. Is this grease likely to impede connectivity?
Really appreciate any advice re performance issue, and cluster connector treatment.
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when you say you checked the fuse box for water/moisture which one did you check
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Thanks TB, Good point!
I found a fairly large fuse box in the engine compartment adjacent to the inner nearside wing. Is there another?
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Update 2
Replaced cluster, with a small amount of addition silicone grease.
Checked Fuses. Removal of No 3 gives very similar symptoms (loss of gauges, plus crank , no start)
Couldnt see any reason why this fuse might give intermittent conductivity. Hopefully by removing it a few times it will clean the contact surfaces.
Next investiagted MAF sensor. Its a Bosch type, and was fitted wrong way round! No sign of this fitting being recently disturbed either!
Road tested - excellent performance now. Vehicle now back in friend's hand with instructions to wiggle Fuse 3 if gauge loss/crank no start returns.
Thanks for all your help
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I have exactly the same symptoms. First time it happened, I was driving past one of those military bases with the big white golf ball antenna things, conspiracy theories had me thinking that I was being zapped!
The problem is definitely in the fuse box, I just press them all down and wiggle a few and the problem goes away.
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