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Fuel efficiency - when to switch - flunky
My Volvo S80 2.5T 53 reg, which I bought to do 4,000 miles/year (for 7k last April), may soon be doing an additional 17,000 miles/year through a work change

I get about 23mpg on my usual short runs, and I guess I might get about 28mpg on the work run. (this is below the official figures (probably because of my driving style) which is 30.7mpg combined).

So I get through 175 gallons of unleaded at the moment, and would need to add another 600 gallons to this.

Petrol is about £4.80/gallon now, so 775 gallons is £3,720/year.

The question is, should I get a diesel to cut costs or do I stick with the petrol. Bearing in mind that I work contracts, and the contract is likely to last about 12 months, maybe a little longer, and my likely next contract would be in London, where I wouldn't need the car.

Any thoughts, and car suggestions?

The only other complication is that the Mrs. is taking her driving test (end of Feb), and would prefer not to haul around a large exec saloon, but I'm not sure there's much we can do about that as it would be madness to buy a second car and for me to drive the fuel-hungry Volvo 70 miles/day while she kept the less thirsty car for occasional trips to the supermarket. Of course any trade-in of my car would probably cost about £1k in dealer profit, etc.
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - sajid
have you thought of converting to lpg? with diesel its more expensive than petrol, what you may save on the mpg you will pay for cost of servicing.
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - FotheringtonThomas
Well, buy her a frugal car, and yourself one that's rather more economical than the one you've got. 23-28MPG is ridiculous. You could be able to get something that'll do double that.
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - Jono_99
I would keep the Volvo, assuming that it has been reliable, and you like it. While you will save money, like for like, if you run a reliable diesel compared to the same car with a petrol engine, this saving will be diluted by:
- cost to change - large engine petrol cars are not the most attractive proposition at the present, with petrol prices as they are. It would be tough to sell, and not the most attractive proposition as a trade-in
- 'new' secondhand costs. Invariably, there are a couple of hundred quid to spend on any new purchase, either to put wrong small probs, or get it as you like.
- potential for a new diesel to go provide an unexpected cost. Look round here at some of the joys of owning new diesel cars (though I have two!)
- the actual extra cost. I would be surprised if you got much more than 45mpg from a large exec diesel. At £5 / gallon, that's £1,900 a year in fuel. For 30mpg, it's 50% more (assume same fuel cost), or £950 extra (Fag packet based on 17,000 miles)

For the risk / reward trade-off, over 1 year, I would stick with the devil I know.

If you and your wife are going to share a car, and she doesn't fancy the volvo, then I guess you have to change..

Cheers

Jon
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - RichardW
For 1 year I'd keep the Volvo - the cost to change will probably outweigh any fuel advantage.

You might well have another problem though:

"Hello, I'd like to insure my wife on my T5 Volvo"
"OK, how long's she had her licence"
"2 days"
Cue laughing in the background and the sound of the operator falling off his chair.... :-))

Quote me happy indeed!

Could be wrong of course, but new driver + high powered turbo car is likely to be ££££
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - grumpyscot
>>
Could be wrong of course but new driver + high powered turbo car is likely
to be ££££


Not necessarily - my son (at age 25) got a cheaper quote to run a T5 estate than he did to run an MG Metro Turbo! In fact, he was only £50 a year dearer than I was for my Saab.

Insurers said that Volvo drivers were lower risk, and had few records of 25 years olds having accidents in them compared with MG Metros.

Fuel efficiency - when to switch - nick
>>Insurers said that Volvo drivers were lower risk

That's due to the calming effect of sucking Werther's Originals and the fact that the brain is kept warmer by the cloth cap. ;-)
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - *Gongfarmer*
There is a simple answer (and I'm not being facetious) learn to drive more economically?

I was faced with a similar issue many years ago when my work moved from being a 10 minute walk away, to 90 odd miles. For a year I was subsidised, then having failed to sell my house I was paying myself. I was running an old Volvo 240 that was worth more to me than anyone else but was only doing 25mpg. So I read a book about economical driving and applied the principles, monitored my Mpg and within a few weeks I was getting 30Mpg, but adding only 2-3 minutes to the journey.Driving economically is not about driving slowly, it's more about conservation of momentum. Have a google and you will find plenty of information - I would have thought with a gentler right foot you should be able to at least low-mid 30s Mpg.
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - flunky
There is a simple answer (and I'm not being facetious) learn to drive more economically?
I read a book about economical driving and applied the principles
monitored my Mpg and within a few weeks I was getting 30Mpg but adding only
2-3 minutes to the journey.Driving economically is not about driving slowly it's more about conservation
of momentum. Have a google and you will find plenty of information - I would
have thought with a gentler right foot you should be able to at least low-mid
30s Mpg.


I think you are right. I sometimes do play about with my mpg, given that my car shows the information (cumulative and instantaneous), but I've never really cared that much, so when I'm going round the M25 at 90mph noticing the consumption drop fast, it hasn't mattered that much.

OTOH when you're doing 70 miles/day, it does make a difference. I don't really need to accelerate up to 40mph when I'm going to stop again in a few hundred yards.

And the cosseting interior of a large Volvo, Terry Wogan's soothing tones playing through the nine speakers, you don't actually mind the journey taking an extra minute or two.

It's just that my natural instinct is when I get on a motorway, unless it's totally clogged up, to go well beyond necessary speeds. It doesn't actually make that much difference to journey time, because usually you get up some speed and then have to slow down because there's an old man in a small Peugeot in the way. Admittedly I do always drive out of rush hour, so perhaps the volume of traffic on the M25 at 6pm will actually do me a favour.

The difference between 27mpg and 32mpg is about £550/year, a fair sum of money - I currently refuse to pay for First Class because normal train travel is quite adequate and I consider the difference not to be worthwhile, so it would be logical to apply the same justification to not accelerating unnecessarily.
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - flunky
For 1 year I'd keep the Volvo - the cost to change will probably outweigh
any fuel advantage.


That was my thinking. A day scratching around Car Giant, risk of getting a lemon, etc. Much easier to just keep pumping £80/week into it.
You might well have another problem though:
"Hello I'd like to insure my wife on my T5 Volvo"
"OK how long's she had her licence"
"2 days"
Cue laughing in the background and the sound of the operator falling off his chair....
:-))


She's ALREADY on the insurance. And my insurance actually went down when I added her on.

I used to live in Middlesex, and moved to Surrey. I got a £100 refund for this from my insurers.

When I called up a few months later to add her on to the insurance, as a provisional licence, my insurers said 'Sorry, we can't insure her on that car'. So we agreed to cancel the insurance on the basis that they couldn't cover me, and I got a full refund for the unused months.

Shopped around for insurance and my quote from Norwich Union came to £200 LESS than I'd been paying before (£400 vs £600). Reason being I have had my driving licence for 8 years, but only took my test 3+ years ago. As far as they are concerned, it's when you first received your licence, not when you passed the test.

And btw, quoting with her off the insurance INCREASED the premium - again she has had her licence for over a year, and this reduced the premium quite a bit. I actually called them to confirm that the fact that she was provisional, and was this ok. They said, yep, no problem.

I could have actually got the cheap Norwich Union insurance in the first place, but I used one of the price comparison sites and always entered '3 years' as the time I've held my licence (which is the correct answer for 99% of insurers - just not for Norwich Union).

I will probably find my premium goes up when I go from 4,000 miles SDP to 21,000 SCDP though.
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - cjehuk
Could be wrong of course but new driver + high powered turbo car is likely
to be ££££

My girlfriend has been driving 6 months, I added her to the insurance of my 07 TT 2.0T FSI at Xmas with over 6 months to run on the policy, resulting in an increase of £12.50 in the premium. She's 22.
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - OldSock
I've mentioned before that fuel is not even 2½ times what it cost twenty years ago, so in 'real terms' it's actually quite cheap.

Keep the Volvo and enjoy it :-)
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - scouseford
I've mentioned before that fuel is not even 2½ times what it cost twenty years
ago so in 'real terms' it's actually quite cheap.
Keep the Volvo and enjoy it :-)

>>
Average cost of unleaded in 1988 was £1.57 per gallon.
Average cost of unleaded today is 104.4pence per litre which is approximately £4.74 per gallon, an increase of over 3 times.
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - flunky
Average cost of unleaded in 1988 was £1.57 per gallon.
Average cost of unleaded today is 104.4pence per litre which is approximately £4.74 per gallon
an increase of over 3 times.


And just to add, RPI increase 1987-2007 is only 103%.

So petrol should cost about £3.18/gallon, or 70p/litre.
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - OldSock
Average cost of unleaded in 1988 was £1.57 per gallon.


Just out of interest, where did you obtain this info? I remember paying over £2 a gallon way back in 1983 or 4 (203.7p/gallon , Gates of Harlow, I recall).

How did the average house cost relative to average earnings in 1988 compare to that existing today?
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - pleiades
I'm retired now and I know it's a bit sad but I still have a little book back from 1978 to date of every bit of petrol I've bought, it was a company car years ago, so can see-

July 1983 8.4 g = £15.37 = £1.83
July 1984 5.4 g = £10.00 = £1.85
July 1988 7.4g = £12.33 = £1.67

so you are both sort of right

I bought my first house in 1971 cost £6,500 salary approx £2000 - SWMBO's not allowed for
Second and present house bought 1977 cost £26,500 salary approx £6000
The age of the great inflation and 15 pcnt interest rates!
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - Collos25
Don't put it on LPG even the factory versions are a disaster and you need to to do around 40k to get your money back.
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - scouseford
OldSock.

Got the info from:

www.speedlimit.org.uk/petrolprices.html

Lots of interesting stats available
Fuel efficiency - when to switch - smokescreen
If your keeping the car, how about a ecu remap with a bias towards fuel economy? Could help your MPG alot, given that most these 2.5T's by default even with a light foot arent that economical. Maybe worth looking into?