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Hi there, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on a problem with my '96 Megane. The engine will stall with no warning. It can go for days driving really well and then cut out several times in the same journey. The only thing I've noticed is when I change gear, the revs will drop very fast. Also, the coolant has dried up twice in a week and I can hear a water swishing sound coming from behind the dashboard (don't know if this has anything to do with the stalling). The throttle housing has recently been changed but the problem seems worse as now it will cut out at any speed not just a low one. Anyone got any ideas?
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 17/01/2008 at 16:54
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OK; it's probably petrol, but what engine size?
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16-valve or 8-valve? When it cuts at speed, how long does it stay dead, does it come to rest with a dead engine and, if so, how long does it take to restart it?
What fault-codes were found?
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Hi, I'm not sure what valve it is (it's an RXE if that's any help). When it stops it's not completely dead, the dash is still lit up and it starts again straight away.
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Without knowing the engine type it's all guesswork.
So, if you're doing 50 and it cuts, then it's dead until the vehicle stops - then it'll start instantly?
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Yeah, although it's never actually stopped at that high a speed (sorry I know I said at 'any' speed), the fastest I've actually been doing when it stopped was about 25mph, thankfully . Can you tell me how I can find out which valve it is?
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 18/01/2008 at 12:36
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The 16-valve unit [totally different from the 8v] has 16v on the plastic engine cover and no HT cables.
If it really is dead on the slow-down and restarts instantly; then the ignition switch or the fuel-pump/engine control relays are the most likely candidates.
Edited by Screwloose on 17/01/2008 at 16:03
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I've just looked at the engine, it's an 8v. So do you think it has nothing to do with the idle control valve / throttle body?
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If it's just cutting-out and there's nothing that you can do to keep it running with the throttle, then it can't be the idle valve or throttle body. Why was the throttle body changed?
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I don't honestly know. The mechanic felt sure that was what was wrong with it. Does it sound like an expensive fault to you? Just hoping it's something simple! Taking it back to mechanic on Satuday but he's at a loss as to the problem, there is no fault showing up on the computer.
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I can sometimes keep it going if I'm travelling fast enough, but usually it happens too quickly.
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I'm not sure that you have a cutting-out fault at all. This is now sounding like a failure to idle fault, which is very different from the initial description.
Has the car ever cut out while driving along at a steady speed and throttle setting?
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No I don't think so, but it has tried to, it judders badly, almost stopping, and the revs shoot up and down. Sorry if I didn't describe it very well.
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it judders badly almost stopping and the revs shoot up and down.
Was that with no throttle applied?
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It's both with and without throttle. Sorry to be such a pain, I appreciate your time.
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You could try washing out the throttle body when its hot, discoonect battery for 5 mins then reconnect & start. Allow to idle for 5 mins without touching the throttle. The other common fault is the coil packs
Doc
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Thanks, the mechanic has cleaned the idle control valve and he also reset the cpu. Is this the same thing? (Pardon my ignorance.)
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Archiep how was your problem of engine cutting out resolved. i have a similar problem .
thanks
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Archiep
Last visited forum: Sat 14 Jun 2008
Maybe someone else can help?
DD, BR Moderator.
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The first thing I would do is clean or replace the crank shaft position sensor that sits on top of the gearbox bell housing and is held in place by 2 x 10mm (IIRC) bolts, I cured similar symptoms on a friend's Megane by giving this a clean with Muc Off, brake cleaner would also do the job (dont get the electrical contacts wet).
If that does not fix it I would replace the coolant temp sensor, it is fitted to the radiator, not sure where pn the Megane. The theory is that if this is faulty the ECU does not know if the engine is hot or cold so fuels inappropriately.
I would then investigate the idle control solonoid.
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Cheddar ,
I have put in a new crankshaft position sensor , with no joy . the problem with mine is that it cuts out at low revs below 3000 and it does not pick up
throttle easily at low revs. where is the idle control solonoid located .
Thanks
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Hi there - having been through this -I can tell you that you may end up changing every sensor on the vehicle - it is even a fault on new vehicles -Renault are getting away with murder - I am advised that crank position sensor- idle control valve and sensor - throttle position sensor -another in the gearbox- coilpacks -all been changed - so will take it in for diagnostics in January to find out that it needs an (only thing left) ECU -engine control/management unit - what they fail to tell you that changing sensors affects the programming - Renault have a lot to answer for and then try to screw you for their services. The ECU would be my obvious choice -I have a 99 megane Sport!
I'm afraid Renault are still building stalling machines.
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