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Use Ford Formula E.It's a semi-synthetic 5w/30-made for Ford by Texaco and is one of the cheapest of the quality oils available.
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I should add that at 4,000m./yr. I doubt that you will need much,if any,between services.
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Thanks Lads - Some interesting stuff there
I never knew the OE fit original engine oil was different spec. and was a special oil to run the car in , I just thought it was usual oil of the spec the Ford builder recommends anyway
Other point new to me is that full Synthetic oil is OK in what is not exactly a new engine design (even though its new as in usage) like this one is , I thought full Synthetics had to be used in very modern designed engines .
Anyway looks to be best advice is.-
Run it for its first year on the oil it came with
Then OK to drain and refill (say) twice a year using a Ford recommended oil.
Once a week try and get in a run of at least 10 to 15 miles and rev it through the gears a bit on the way.
Once again thanks for the tips.
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I changed the oil & filter at 600 miles on my 2005 Fiat and put Mobil 1 in. This with the `blessing` of the service manager, who also believed in 6 months, 6,000 mile oil changes.
( Half of what`s in the service book)
I have done a very early oil & filter change on every new vehicle,
the engines all ran very smoothly and never needed top up between services.
It would be interesting if you could get the service manager on his own and see what he really thinks about running a year on the original oil.
Surely a conflict of interest between an engineers (or personal) view and the manufacturers accountants who perhaps have been forced by fleet demands to have the lowest possible costs over a given mileage?
Sure, engines have improved, but what manufacturer dare specify an early first oil change? It would be commercial suicide and likely be looked on by the largely technically ignorant masses as an inferior engine.
It seems to me that manufacturers would like us to believe there`s something totally different under the bonnet hidden beneath the plastics.
The way I see it is that there are still *rings and bores and they are still engines*, despite vast improvements in manufacture. As such there are still microscopic swarf particles some of which will surely be smaller than the filters capacity to trap,however small that amount now is, surely its much more in the first fill of oil.
Regards
Edited by oilrag on 11/01/2008 at 07:25
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oilrag
Spot on. Engines should never be run in on an oil that has to last a full extended service distance.
A good mineral oil, changed at 500-1000 miles of varied running, is all that's needed to bed the rings in - after that, it's too late.
Clapped-out, smoky, 60-80K engines used to be unheard of after the oil revolution of the 80s; now they're back again.
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Screwloose, I agree with you. But cars are delivered with normal oil in and are supposed to go to 1/2 years or 12500/15000/miles or when computer says no.
I think this is why HJ tells us to leave the original oil in to degrade a little, so that the bores are worn in.
So are you saying that when you buy a new car, you should let the original oil out, replace with some cheap mineral oil for 750 miles, then put the proper oil in?
Years ago cars came with running in oil which was changed after 750ish miles. This was stopped for fleet finance reasons, which is a pity because I reckon that was the best idea.
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That's exactly the problem. Running-in oil was formulated for it's very specific job. Anti-wear additives were not part of the package.
I was taught - and have seen nothing since to convince me otherwise - that rings bed in during the first 500 miles. If they haven't done it by then, they never will. That's why mimsing along at 30, with a "Running-in - Please pass" sticker, is the worst thing that you can do.
Modern oils that must try and last up to 30,000 miles are useless for the bedding-in of components - they're far TOO good at preventing metal-to-metal contact. By the time a synthetic had degraded, it's all over.
This is now clearly apparent from the huge number of excessive oil consumption warranty claims - that are usually fudged away by reluctant dealers and eventually sold unfixed. Nearly all were supplied with synthetic oil in the sump from new.
So yes; drain out that new synthetic; put in a top-quality mineral [top-quality - not most-hyped rubbish!!] and change back around the 1000 mile mark.
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Cars are not delivered with std. oil in;factory fill is usually the normal service oil but with little or no additives included.Oil changes at 5,000 to 6,000m. can be on normal multi grade.Upto 10,000/12,000m. changes then semi-synthetic.Fully synthetic is only needed if you're looking at 20,000m. changes.
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I thought that new cars were delivered with the normal oil. It would be a long time for an oil with no additives, in Mercs which go for 20000 miles, before the first service. On Audi/VW cars they give you a litre of Edge 5W/30 for topping up, this is the normal synthetic oil. Are you sure,jc2 that you are right?
John Deere tractors are delivered with running in oil, which has to be changed at 100 hours (usual oil change interval is 500 hours) to the normal oil. They state in the manual that you must use running in oil or low spec oil to top up during this time. This seems to me a good plan.
P.S. Am I the only person who gets oilrag mixed up with oldlag, or is it oldrag and oillag?
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Obviously "oilsorts" of ideas on this one !
I reckon I stick with the OE oil till half way through the year which for me is 2,000 miles or so, then get the dealer to change oil & filter as an interim change before the next scheduled one at the year end.
Also seems like synthic oil is a waste of money on this engine especially given its low annual mileage.
One last thing wheres the oil filter and how to I gain access to it ? bearing in mind I will be doing it in my front drive so I have to reach under I suppose with a frt wheel off
NB why are cars so complex now
by OLDLAG
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Support comments by screwloose.
There appears to be some mystique of synthetic oil for long service intervals, mineral for short etc.
Mineral oil is hardly recommended for any car now, but is good for runing in a new engine or for use in old engine.
Synthetics were developed for use with turbo's and whilst are good for extended service intervals (if they are a good idea? but seperate discussion!) they are "demanded" by any vehicle with turbo fitted.
Semi synthethtics are just a step between mineral and fully syn; but in a lot of cases they are not as synthetic as you might imagine.
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>>>Synthetics were developed for use with turbo's and whilst are good for extended >>>service intervals (if they are a good idea? but seperate discussion!) they >>>are "demanded" by any vehicle with turbo fitted
Sorry yorkiebar but I think you are wrong on this one. Ford diesel cars, which have turbos, should use 5W/30 A1/B1 oil, which I am 99% sure is semi-sync.
I agree with OILRAG that it is a good idea to change the oil, but he must make sure that the new car gets a good workout, or the bores will glaze.
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Oh no, sorry, genuine mistake, please forgive me OLDLAG.
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Quizman,
You can usually tell ` oilrag ` posts by the
" Regards" at the end.
This is partly a sop to the drivel in the post and also to apologise in advance for offending anyone.
Regards ;)
(thinking of a new sig now... maybe `oldoil`or perhaps more appropriately, Oil-Nag ;)
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