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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 13/12/2007 at 18:22
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(Repeated/continued from Computer Related Questions 142)
When I connect to a certain website (which shall remain nameless so that I don?t get chastised!) another website sometimes connects itself uninvited to an unused tab of my IE7 browser. I use the word ?uninvited? because I?m very careful not to click on anything unintentionally. Currently the miscreant is an advertising website www.ecarinsurance.co.uk. It doesn?t do itself any good because I ignore it ~ I only know it?s connected if I happen to glance at the taskbar ~ and (as far as I know) it doesn?t do me any harm because I?ve blocked it?s cookies.
However, I?m fascinated by how it connects to my computer uninvited, and (with my constant desire to improve my computer literacy) I?d like to find out how to prevent it connecting ~ other than by not visiting the host website in the first place. (Incidentally, it isn't www.homecheck.co.uk as I'd previously suspected.) I see the whole thing as being a bit like a flea attaching itself to one?s dog!
So ???.. how do I prevent it connecting, or kill it automatically the moment it connects? What brand of flea collar do I use?
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L\'escargot.
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It is not connecting itself, it is a pop-up, where as with previous versions of IE a pop-up would do just that, pop-up as a new window in IE7 it will (normally) pop-up as a new tab.
The interesting thing is that eCar (good company BTW) are one of only a few that get past the pop-up blocker.
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In that case, am I right in thinking that I need pop-up blocking software to deal with it. I'm determined not to let it get the better of me. It's my pride at stake here!
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L\'escargot.
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IE7 has a good pop up blocker, chances are that the next Windows Updates will fix it.
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L, cheddar is right. Have you looked at Tools, Pop up blocker and then looked at the settings? I've just tweaked mine to allow pop ups from secure sites.
JH
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Actually, this website has caused me annoyance.
I completed an online application for car insurance and foolishly gave my home telephone number. The quote was almost £100 more than my renewal with Liverpool Vic so naturally I never proceeded. Later that evening I got a call from this insurance company and I declined any further searches.
Since then I have had numerous calls trying to sell me personal accident cover from people with South Wales accents. I have also had calls where the 'phone rings and then you get the ringing out tone when you pick up the 'phone. These are identical to the calls I've had from this company when the callers have answered before I've put the 'phone down.
I'm ex-directory, and I've not requested any other online quotes fro anywhere else.
The last person I spoke to got a flea in his ear.
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If you are ex-directory, why did you give your phone number out, foolishly or otherwise?
You went on a comparison website and provided the information. You cannot complain if you are contacted.
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What's for you won't pass you by
Edited by Stuartli on 30/11/2007 at 00:09
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I'm not worried about one call. It's the plethora of others and phantom calls that annoy me. Perhaps you're more tolerant than me.
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Perhaps you're more tolerant than me.>>
In which way?
I never disclose information I don't want to become general knowledge..:-)
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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>>calls>>
Despite giving you number there would have been a check box allowing you to opt out of phone communications, so you can choose e-mail or post only.
I assume this is eCar, they are very good, my car and bike are insured with them as was the wife's though Zurich provided a better quote last time on the basis of their £50 M&S voucher offer.
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Robbie,
register with the telephone preference service, www.tpsonline.org.uk/tps/. If that doesn't stop them then just politely tell them that you are surprised to receive a call from them as you are registered etc. You'll be very quickly told it's a mistake, sorry, you might get some nonsense about "the computers being down" but you won't get any further calls.
Now if only I could stop the nuiance calls from abroad, deliberately aimed at avoiding UK legislation.
JH
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If you are ex-directory why did you give your phone number out foolishly or otherwise?
>> What's for you won't pass you by
If I'm ever 'forced' to give a phone number, in order to proceed to the next page of registration or a request for whatever, I always give a fictitious one or if there is a space for a mobile number I again just make up one beginning with 07........ etc.
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Have you looked at Tools Pop up blocker and then looked at the settings?
It's set to "Medium: Block most automatic pop-ups". Is this a good setting to have?
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L\'escargot.
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Ahem.. Said Website is definitely blocked when using Firefox
-------------------
VW Bora (51) 2.0 SE
VW Touran (54) 1.9 TDI
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...... Said Website is definitely blocked when using Firefox
In my view it's a website that has been connected uninvited to my computer, and is not just a pop-up advert. For example, it can be used to contact ecarinsurance directly to get a quote. A plain simple advert wouldn't enable you to do that ~ you'd have to contact the company by other means.
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L\'escargot.
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Imagine you're sitting down to a pleasant meal in a good restaurant. You have just ordered the wine when suddenly an insurance salesman comes up to your table, slaps a brochure in front of you and tries to get you to sign up. That's what popup ads are doing. I block them all and if a server manages to get one through (very, very rare) I immediately blacklist that server, often losing other ads in the process.
There is also a security risk in that ad servers can deliver all kinds of intrusive unpleasant stuff and if you haven't even clicked on a link you haven't made the choice to receive it. See here:
www.theregister.co.uk/2007/11/13/doubleclick_distr.../
Ads on a page are one thing, but popups are quite offensive. Block 'em all I say.
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Its not uninvited.
By visiting the main website you are implicitly requesting media content from that site. It so happens that part of the purpose of that site is to provide you with an interactive experience which includes the provision of information and interactive content from a variety of sources. From a technical point of view all web pages only get to your browser as a result of a request, the only issue is how the responsibility for that request is distributed, and how aware you are of making that request.
If you don't like that you have a number of options. You can stop visiting that site. You can block content at different levels, you can use a browser that does not allow pop-ups, etc.
Your choice.
As an alternative you could contact the owners/managers of the main site and express your feelings. But be aware that they will be making money by facilitating the presentation of the second web site to you, so may not care what you think.
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It's uninvited in the sense that if you visit pleasantrestaurant.com you don't implicitly also visit dodgyinsurancebrokernextdoor.com. In technical terms it is a request. In human terms it is taking a liberty. There are other ways of advertising online; popups are the laziest. Block 'em I say: it's the only way to stop 'em.
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Quote from Adverse Camber:Its not uninvited
Oh yes it is.
The ESure website appears on my PC without being invited. For some reason that I can't figure out, it appears as if by magic when I am on here.
I have added it to my list of Restricted Websites, but somehow it manages to get through.
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The site is funded largely by advertising. This consists of both banner ads and pop-ups. These adverts are what pay for this site and pay for you to come here and chat with other backroomers. We have to have them. Its part of funding a website which is free to you to use.
That makes it a subject that is difficult to debate, or at least for us to allow debate upon. We cannot risk annoying sponsors to the point where they choose not to provide us revenue. Please understand the issue and live with it and them. By all means if one is giving you technical or usability problems, then mention it. Sometimes they are troublesome and we don't always know.
But if you have a comment as to whether or not pop-ups should exist, it is far better done in e-mail to HJ at letters@honestjohn.co.uk . If you have a problem with them, such as making your system crash, please don't moan in the forums. Instead, e-mail directly to Honest John at letters@honestjohn.co.uk and he'll refer your e-mail on to the media agency in the hope something can be done to fix the problem.
Adverts provide a revenue flow which [barely] pays the cost of the Backroom; so annoying as they are, they do allow us to be here.
Just a gentle reminder from this site's smallprint.
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 01/12/2007 at 11:36
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thought that might stir opinion :)
I think people have a fundamental misunderstanding of the nature of the relationship between web sites and their users.
Robbie, you visit the web site then you are asking it to provide content to you. You are not (in general) paying for that content, and most people have not read the policies and T&C's of the sites they visit. If as part of the content that site provides, it causes another web page to be displayed, it is only because you have visited that originating site. And who did that? You did. You might not like it, but part of the price of visiting that site is being presented with the adverts/content that it chooses to offer.
Uninvited would be like the various msn/im spam that causes a page to pop up without any interaction from yourself. The remote server just sending stuff out regargless.
Baskerville, I disagree with your analogy. The equiv of your restaurant visit would be one of the web sites that displays an advert which you have to click through to get to the content. Do yahoo still do that? Or what about the adverts which appear between bits of TV programs?
I see popups as being nearer to all the crud that falls out of any newspaper or magazine I pick up.
Having said that, I should probably add that I take a similar approach to B. I cant remember the last popup I saw.
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Discussion locked. No need for further discussion on this topic here. If you have issues e-mail HJ and or the Mods. Any further discussion within this thread and the lot will be deleted.
Not being stroppy by the way I just spend my life reading between lines.
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 01/12/2007 at 16:54
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My thanks to those who responded to my post at the tail-end of the last volume.
Clk Sec
{Moves to right part of thread, as per the 'Please Note' message at the top}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 01/12/2007 at 20:07
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What is the best way of emailing a document from an external original please? At present I scan, process the scan with an optical character recognition program (ABBYY Finereader), correct the result where needed, save and email as an attachment. This is a cumbersone process and some documents come out as such gooblydegook that I have to re-type them from scratch.
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depends whats going to happen to it down the line.
Why not just email the scan image?
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I just scan documents and then use the scanner software's "e-mail to recipient" facility to send them as an attachment.
If you are using an OCR it's usually because you do, in fact, want to edit a document.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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download and install openoffice. Scan image into open office, and save as PDF. Email PDF as attachment
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< Ulla>
{I hope I've moved this to the correct post? - DD}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 02/12/2007 at 19:48
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Or use a separate converter such as Primo PDF...
www.primopdf.com/
This functions as if it were a printer, so you simply go to print from any other Windows program, but select it as the print device.
I've nothing against OpenOffice, BTW - I think it's excellent, but it's a big download just to create PDF's!
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Thanks for this and other suggestions. I have found the simplest way is to save the scan as a PDF document and attach that to the email.
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I've just spent a fruitless afternoon trying to replace a BT Voyager 210 with a wireless router (a 2Wire 2700, which I have tested and am familiar with). It picks up the carrier OK but can't/won't log in. I looked into the Voyager settings, and they seem pretty normal (pppoA, VC mux, 0-38) but it doesn't report login details, which I gather are just 'voyager210.user@btbroadband.com' and no password, although I have tried using BT, which is sometimes required.
I get the impression that the connection depends on there being a bit of BT kit at the user end, but I have also read that other routers should work out of the box. Am I missing something obvious..?
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You will need a password for ADSL. To make sure it's not something else, try putting in "speedtest@speedtest_domain" for the username and leaving the password field blank. It should connect (although the internet won't work).
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"You will need a password for ADSL"
That is what I thought, too, but the brochure that came with the BT router has an 'advanced settings' section that states that the username is 'voyager210.user@btbroadband.com' and that there is no password. I've set up non-BT wireless routers on BT lines in the past, when a specific username and password were supplied as part of the account (i.e. in a letter to the customer, rather than in a printed brochure). Some ADSL routers demand a password, in which case 'BT' usually works, but not this time!
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Hello JBJ.
I found an identical question to yours posted by someone called "Alterego" on Digitalspy.
www.digitalspy.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=703943
However there is also another one relating to a BT210 which could be of interest - it explains how to upgrade the firmware. For all I know, the firmware upgrade may solve your problem.
www.digitalspy.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=14256...3
The recommended firmware upgrade is described on page2 at
www.routertech.org/viewtopic.php?p=11908
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>someone called "Alterego"
Well searched - that's me, I'm afraid! Digitalspy is pretty useful, usually, but I haven't had a reply there (yet), so I thought I would mention it here.
I'm not sure a firmware change will help, as I want to replace the BT210 with a wireless ADSL router. The simplest solution is probably to tell the owner to get a Home Hub upgrade from BT, but I don't like admitting defeat, and I'm not a great fan of Home Hubs anyway.
Thanks for the links, though. Useful to have the username confirmed, as I was beginning to wonder if 'voyager210.user' was meant to be translated into the actual user's name!
Edited by J Bonington Jagworth on 03/12/2007 at 00:40
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>>2Wire 2700>>
2Wire have made some of the BT branded routers for a few years so I guess this was sourced via BT, cant they help?
Otherwise here may help:
www.dslreports.com/forum/2wire
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Thank you Cheddar. It's not actually a BT one - it's an AT&T refurb from eBay, but I have used them elsewhere with good results. They're not pretty to look at, but have good wireless coverage and are in a well ventilated box that runs cooler than most.
I'll bookmark that forum, too - it looks useful.
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JBJ, have you looked here?
www.2wire.com/index.php?p=266
I have a BT Wireless Network 1250 which is a 2Wire 1000 series, similar to the BT1800HG though not BT BB specific. It has been very good though is I must say better looking that the 2700.
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Sorry JBJ, I misread your initial query.
Anyhow, try this search in Google: adsl user@btbroadband.com
Just four results out of many others
forums.vnunet.com/message.jspa?messageID=727019
forums.broadbandbuyer.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=17...3
If required you should use broadband.user@btbroadband.com. A password is not required.
www.filesaveas.com/btbroadband.html
Logon username: Created when setting up your account - example: yourusername@btbroadband.com
Logon password: No password is required, as BT uses the phone number you're connecting via for authentication. If your router needs one, use "BT"
tinyurl.com/ysatzv
username: user@btbroadband.com
Logon password: No password is required on certain routers, as BT uses the phone number you're connecting via for authentication. If your router needs one, use " password "
Edited by jbif on 03/12/2007 at 11:47
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Thank you both. Plenty to go on there!
I'll let you know the result...
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"I'll let you know the result..."
Which is that a full reset (press the button at the back and hold, then power off and on) and re-entering of passwords, etc. has done the trick. Obvious, really... :-)
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Hi, I obtained an 18 month old laptop yesterday - an IBM Thinkpad R50e. It has a DVD burner inbuilt (a Matshita DVD RAM UJ 830S according to properties). I performed a reset to factory settings and installed the various apps I would need.
When I tried to burn some photos onto CD last night (using Sony Picture Package v1) it crashed halfway through burning. It did similar when I then tried using using the inbuilt Microsoft wizard to burn the photos onto CD.
The discs I am using are normal Mitsubishi CDR. It plays back both CDs and DVDs fine and the previous owner used the machine for burning DVDs no bother.
Any ideas what the problem could be?
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I wish to create a 'caution' sign with a border of diagonal black/yellow, similar to hazard warning tape.
I have access to paint shop pro and m$ Word, but I really don't want to spend ages learning how to draw from scratch. can anybody suggest a resource where i could download a border/picture frame/template for either of the above two packages, or any other short cut other than getting a big black felt pen and a big yellow felt pen ?
thanks
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If you've got Word and an Internet connection, I'd go to Insert/Picture/Clipart and search for something like it on the web. MS has a huge library of stuff, and it's usually scalable, so won't go all jaggy when you print it large. PSP is for photos and bitmaps, which do!
Alternatively, try WordArt in Word...
Edited by J Bonington Jagworth on 03/12/2007 at 16:26
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You can download from various web site for free signs, the site I have used is:
www.freesignage.co.uk/
But there are several just do a search.
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rustbucket (the original)
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My daughter has changed her password with her ISP - Tiscali -for access to her account, which includes AFAIK web mail access. This has messed up her internet connection as she hasn't altered the ADSL login details on her PC.
She has Vista Home on her PC. I am not au fait with Vista, neither do I have Windows Mail.
It's been ages since I had to fiddle with such things as I connect via a wireless router which, of course has its own login & password contained within it.
Help me, please! Could someone please walk me through the procedure so I can do likewise with her by 'phone later today?
It's a bit difficult to do it personally as she is in the U.K. & I'm in Spain!
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Roger. (Costa del Sol, España)
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if its a router connection you need to change the password in the router, if its a usb aatached adsl modem its right click on the network connection, properties, then password (its much like XP )
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< Ulla>
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my laptop computer keeps just turning itself off - it has started to happen on a daily basis and is very frustrating as i am normally in the middle of my work when it happens. I had it check over when it did this once before and was told that there were no problems with it - this makes it even more frustrating! Anyone have any suggestions?>>
well you've just won the Most Inexplicable Quoted Post of the Year Award 2007 - the prize is that we deleted it !
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 04/12/2007 at 20:47
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i had this very same prob about a month ago, its the psu (internal power unit) starting to give up the will to live! tip, put a new slightly larger wattage one in to help with any future upgrades!.
Billy
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Not so easy to fit upgrade PSU as its a laptop
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rustbucket (the original)
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Is it switching off on mains or from battery?
SWMBO over ruled my suggestion that XP was, like me, old but proven and bought a new (samsung) laptop with Vista Home Premium. I have still not been able to configure the battery alarm to give the clear and explicit warning at x% and alarm at y% that I get from my XP Fujitsu.
The fact that laptop fashion has moved the status lights from between the screen hinges to out of sight/mind down by the headphone socket does not help either (a flashing red battery icon under the screen grabs the attention).
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Its probably overheating, the fan is probably obstructed. It needs cleaning out. however its a job for someone who knows what they are doing
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< Ulla>
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it happens when it is connected to the mains - and happens after its been running for varying lengths of time. It is also SOOO noisy - it sounds like a plane about to take off - but it was like this even after i took it to be looked at so i just assumed that i have a very noisy laptop- maybe i should take it to be looked at again by someone different
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Maybe the noise is a semi seized cooling fan, and therefore getting too hot and shutting itself down.
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Although it's much more likely to be a hardware cause, you should make sure you have run a virus check as some viruses shut down computers - just for fun...
Agree with Dave, noise is most likely a fan, which would cause overheating and failure.
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It is also SOOO noisy - it sounds like a plane about to take off
Is it perhaps an HP Pavilion, by any chance? I have a 2002 Pavilion which started out silent when new but it got noisier and noisier as the years went by. The noise was, of course, the fan running at full speed. I downloaded speedfan.com which told me my AMD chip was running at 85 deg C. (far too hot). I had never cleaned the fan or heatsink.
Googling indicated that there was a fairly common problem concerning a loss of thermal contact between the processor and the heatsink.
I downloaded the service manual and fully stripped down the laptop (authorised service centre only, it warned). The heatsink was surprisingly clean (considering it had been used for 10 hrs a day for 4 years) but there was one small bit of fluff lodged in the fan blades which would have made it noisier as well as less efficient. (Contrary to the service manual advice) I applied 1g of thermal paste to the top of the chip and bottom of the thermal pad. On reassembly speedfan indicated a 25 deg C drop in max operating temperature, the fan comes on much less frequently now, and almost never at full speed. The laptop is faster and more reliable.
maybe i should take it to be looked at again by someone different
sounds like a good idea!
What laptop is it and how old? Have you ever cleaned the heatsink fins? Google before attacking it with canned air as you can over-rev and break your fan.
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I've just got a new laptop and want to transfer my email file from my desktop but I've no transfer cable. Can anyone advise if it's possible to save my existing email file to disc and then tranfer to Thunderbird on my laptop?
TIA
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See:
www.mozilla.org/support/thunderbird/faq.html
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Many thanks, S, for pointer. Very useful.
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Afternoon folks,
Just been around a local ladies house to help set up her oldish but fully functional laptop for wireless internet, she has never had internet at home before, but has just signed up for AOL broadband as she got a free router inc (not free really cos she?s now tied to an 18mnth contract!) any way, I set it up for her, and she can connect wirelessly whilst in the same room, but she really wants to use it when she?s tucked snugly up in bed. For some reason the laptop will not connect with the router from there, and its virtually only in the room above. Signal strength of her network is reported by the laptop as being excellent. We did a little experiment to see where the problems begin, and it is on the 6th stair up! The connection keeps making and breaking at this point, although with the door open the router is still in plain unobscured view! So I think it must be a range? Problem, router is Speedtouch 585 v6 sl. Anybody experienced similar probs or can recommend a solution?
Many thanks
Billy
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The laptop may be indicating the signal is exellent but my experiance is that these signal strength indicators are not at all accurate, it probably is down to signal strength as you have determined that the connection is lost as you move away from the router.You may well have someone else in the near locality on the same channel or another source of interference.Televisions ,microwaves flourescent lamps , low energy light bulbs are among many other sources of interference.Have you positioned the router near a wall or metal object , have you extended the aerials and rotated them correctly. You will have to eliminate all the above before you get a reliably wi-fi .
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rustbucket (the original)
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Have you updated the firmware (internal software) of the speedtouch router? Recent updates have improved the issue.
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I found an apparent clash with my wireless telephones. A channel change on the router did the trick.
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Fullchat
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I would try changing the channel used by the wireless router first. Someone nearby is probably using the same.
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'scuse me for butting in, but if i were to change the channel on my router (to see if some problems dissappear), would i have to change anything on any of the other wireless devices that connect to the router ?
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Just to add when you have got a reliable wi-fi dont forget to secure it, I have nine wireless networks around our house and six are not protected.
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rustbucket (the original)
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Cheers chaps, will pop back after tea, try channel change, currently on 11, been googling and found europe default is supposed to be 13, will also see if an update is available. hope its not electrical interference as i know she will have low energy bulbs, tv an microwaves etc, is there any kind of filter/screening devices for these things?
Thanks
billy
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channel 13 is not always available on some devices,channel 11 or 6 is usually the default try another to get away from the defaults.
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rustbucket (the original)
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Evening folks, - quick update,
Upgraded router from 5.xx to 6.2, this didn?t make any apparent difference, so tried channel 6, nothing, so then channel 1, partial success, limited connection in bedroom!.
Just mentioned to lady that it would be easier if I could drop wire through floor and into tel socket downstairs, to my surprise she said that would be ok, so 30mins later, router sat on her bedroom window-sill, and we now have a solid wireless connection in her bedroom! Stranger still, we can also get a solid wireless connection in any of her three downstairs rooms! ? lady delighted, so it seems that radio-waves from laptop must radiate up and out as opposed to down and out! ? very strange!
Anyway thanks for all advice and pointers received here.
Thanks
Billy
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That's similar to my experience billy. Since moving the router (Netgear 834) upstairs we get a better signal all around the house, including downstairs and up into the garden. Sort of logical I suppose.
Steve.
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Some routers (such as the linksys wrt54g/s models - can be had for cheap) can have custom firmware applied to them, such as DD-WRT or Tomato. These can then be used to modify the power output of the wifi transmitter considerably from its standard 25mw output all the way upto 250mw.
However I only set mine to around 100mw tops, as increasing the power adds extra noise to the signal which slows the connection down. Makes a significant difference, coverage is fantastic with the increase.
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The problem with the latest Linksys WRT54 models is the cheaper ones no longer run Linux but another embedded operating system. Reason for change is to reduce memory in the router and so some of the alternative "firmware"/operating systems won't fit.
Found this out when I had to replace one at short notice.
They have some Linux versions still due to demand with an added L to the model... these have more memory and you can modify them.
I've spent time the last week hacking my iPod Touch so I can install lots of extras ;-)
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Ah iPOD Touch - how does that connect to the host PC - has it got a standard iPOD connector ?
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Pugugly, Standard iPod connector via USB. But typing this on the iPod via wireless :-) The PC is not even on.
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That's what I wanted to know, I have a nice Alpine Head Unit just gone into the Skoda and it has an iPOD connector - a proper on not a jack plug.
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Pugugly I would not be sure you could control an iPod Touch from a headunit. The best you might get is audio. The iPod Touch runs MacOSX and is very different to control. I know the iPhone complains when plugged into some head units saying incompatible but audio works.
In fact all new iPods also don't work with old video cables.
This perhaps needs a separate sub-thread?
Rob
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This very useful facility was included in Windows 98 but how do I block a sender in XP please? I have been round all the settings and Help but can't find a way.
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I assume you are talking about emails, in which case the 'block sender' functionality is part of the email client and has nothing to do with the operating system.
What are you using as an email client - outlook express, outlook, etc etc ?
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>> What are you using as an email client >>
It is BT Yahoo! Mail
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ah, right - not something I'm familiar with but i'm sure someone will be along shortly who does.
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I recently fitted a second hard drive to my computer, to which I've moved most of my data files, clearing space on the original for the OS and programmes etc.
Windows Media Player now throws up an error message when I try to access any MP3s indicating that the connection to the file has been lost. The Web Help advises that this is due to the file having been moved and to restore the connection I should move it back. I clearly don't want to do this and it doesn't provide any other options.
Does anyone know of another method of restoring the connection?
JS
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Hello John S.
If you are using Win2K or Vista, this may or may not apply.
I am on XP and MP11.
First clear the library cache in MP11. Google: clear media player cache
Open MP11 Tools, Options, Library
Then go to "Monitor Folders" "advanced" and select the new location.
Also, bear this in mind that if your music is in your "my documents" then this applies: www.kellys-korner-xp.com/win_xp_mydocs.htm
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A little digging in my folders shows that my media cache is stored in three locations
C:, Documents and Settings, jbif-yourname, Local Settings, Application Data, Microsoft, Media Player, and subfolders therein
C:, Documents and Settings, allusers, Application Data, Microsoft, Media Index
C:, Documents and Settings, allusers, Application Data, Microsoft, Media Player
(backslash replaced by comma in above lines)
If MP11>tools>options>privacy>clear caches and clear history options do not work, you may have to edit in registry
www.windowsitpro.com/Articles/ArticleID/24718/2471...l
or use the "Custom Files and folders" option in a cleaner program such as the well regarded crapcleaner
www.ccleaner.com/download/builds
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jbif
Many thanks! Yes, I'm running XP plus WMP11. I've found that if you use the 'add to windows media player' option on the media file in its new location doesn't seem to work. Isn't Windows great? If you play a file with WMP and and then use the 'add to windows media player' option it makes the link - but that doesn't appeal for 10GB of songs!
So, I'll be giving your ideas a try.
Regards
JS
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A forum search hasn´t revealed anything strictly relevant to this.
My Dell PC has a DVD drive (D:) and a DVD/CD rewriter (E:).
It has stopped recognizing the presence of a CD or a DVD in the rewriter drive, hence I can´t back anything up or burn music CDs etc. The standard DVD drive works OK.
Anyone got any ideas of what I could try to get the rewriter working again?
Thanks all in advance,
Barchettaman
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Does the computer still think it has an E drive?
I'm assuming it is getting power or you wouldn't be able to open the tray and put a disk in.
Does it come up in the list of connected drives in the Bios?
Are you able to boot from it? Or does it fail to read at all?
If you can set the PC to boot from dvd and it still fails to boot from an OS boot disk then I'd suspect the drive is faulty. If it boots from this drive then I'd suspect that it's a setting in windows at fault.
Firstly try reseating the connectors on the driver and motherboard with the computer off and unplugged.
Secondly try a new one. A new dvd burner is less than 20 quid from the usual online sellers.
Chris
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If you still have an e: drive in your device mangler and that says its working , but it does not recognise media in the drive, the drive has gone TU.
to prove it, swop your drives around.
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< Ulla>
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(Not been able to post for a while - little or no idea why, but been checking out configuration etc - changing MTU to 1432 from 1500 seems to have done the trick!)
Normally Windows will assign D to a rewriter (Master) and E to a ROM drive
(Slave).
Check that the leads and cables are all firmly connected, that the rewriter
is jumpered as the Master and the ROM as Slave and then, from Device
Manager, Uninstall both drives.
Disconnect the lead and cable from one or other drive and reboot. Windows
should Find New Hardware and reinstall the basic CDROM driver (all that is
required for either).
Then reconnect the second drive and, again, reboot. Once more FNH and
reinstallation of the CDROM driver should occur.
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What's for you won't pass you by
Edited by Stuartli on 13/12/2007 at 13:57
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OK here's a juicy one: adware / spyware removal.
My kids love internet games, despite my warnings about virus vunerability and I now have "adware.ezula" and "adware virtumonde" despite keeping NOD32 antivirus religiously updated. Tried Googling the actual virus names and a free download from Symantec looked like it would work but still failed to deliver the goods and eradicate 'em,
Anyone got any cast iron virus removal tips or links to sites that would download a quick fix (preferably free of course)???
As always, any help greatly appreciated.
And MERRY CHRISTMAS to all backroomers! I can almost taste the sprouts.......
slt
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 11/12/2007 at 21:13
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As always, any help greatly appreciated
Try www.wilderssecurity.com/showthread.php?t=50662
Your belief that antivirus would protect against unsafe interweb activity has been proved wrong. Promiscuity on the web is quite risky if appropriate precautions are not taken, and even then they are not 100% guaranteed to work.
You also need the other anti-adware and anti-spyware products mentioned in the above link.
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These appear to be adware or spyware which is different from a straight forward virus hence a straight antivirus wouldn't necessarily stop them. I would use both Adaware and Spybot Search & Destroy one after the other and let them remove whatever they find. Assuming you have Win ME or XP create a System Restore point first just in case they mess something up!!
After they've cleaned up (you might need to run them in safe mode to be truly effective) I would install Microsoft's free Windows Defender which runs silently in the background & is some active defence against spyware & adware when your kids are on the PC!
If you still can't remove these pests you could try a System Restore point to a date just before you think you were infected, although this will have implications for programmes installed since that date.
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spybot s/d recognises and disposes of both these pests, download it free on net.
Billy
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I have AdAware2007, Search and Destroy and SpywareBlaster, but find that SUPERAntispyware is particularly efficient for a freebie. Needs, as in such cases, updating regularly. See:
www.superantispyware.com/
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Dell seem to keep a tight rein on the aftermarket for their ink. Two lots of ink cost more online from them than the printer did, and so far it has worked extremely well (2 years plus). Trouble is, a grandchild's art project can easily use up 50 quid's worth. The chosen artist would of course display his artworks against a solid black background too!
The agreeably chaotic Indian stationer and art shop at my end of the Portobello Road tells me that some Dell cartridges are interchangeable with cheaper Hewlett Packard ones, but Dell won't tell them which these are.
My printer is a Dell A10 A940 printer/fax/copier. Does anyone know what the codes or designated printers for the equivalent HP cartridges are, if such exist?
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Your chaotic indian stationer has led you a merry dance. Most dell printers are lexmark clones,
You are in the inkjet conundrum, the printers are sold cheap, far chepaer than cost to make delivered to your door. The profit is on the ink
How much do you pay, prices here are about average for most makers
www.colourfill.co.uk/acatalog/dell-a10-ink-cartrid...l
You can go down the "ink refill kit" route, google is your friend here. I personaly do not use them for those printers that dont include the head int he cartridge, My experience is that the heads gum up with ink you buy in kits.
For that reason I buy canon (heads in the cart)
Take your old cart to your nearest computer fair, and see if they have the same lexmark ones that have fallen off the back of the lexmark lorry.
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< Ulla>
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Thanks AE. But do Dell /Lexmark cartridges have a built-in head? Are all those little holes in the shiny copper thing the head?
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If you can see the paper through the hole where your cartridge slots in, then you have "head in cart" type.
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< Ulla>
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