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ABS light staying on, checked the obvious fuses, one under dash the other in engine bay, tried taking the ABS ECU connector block off to see if any corroded terminals, but all ok. I was wondering about doing a continuity test with my multimeter on the individual sensors to each wheel, then realised I could probably do the same thing at the ABS unit connector block end, so I had a look today and the terminals are numbered 1 to 23, numbers 8 and 9 are larger than the other 21 terminals, and it is an ATE unit and the vehicle is late '98 turbo diesel. I obviously need to pair various terminals up and bridge them with the meter, so does anyone know which terminals go to which sensors?
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 11/10/2007 at 01:40
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'98 is a change year; but for a Teves Mk 20:-
1 Kohm each
1 + 2 lhf
5 + 6 lhr
19+20 rhf
22+23 rhr [21/23 on some.]
Live feed 9
Ign feed 4
Earth 24
Edited by Screwloose on 11/10/2007 at 00:28
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Thanks for the info, but as I mentioned mine is ATE
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ATE ,Alfred Teves are the same company .It is possible to get a diagnostic test on these.The problem with doing a manual test with a meter is that the sensors may show a good result static but be erratic when the car is moving.hth
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Normally a wheel sensor that causes the fault.
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Thanks to all, much appreciated!
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Some Citroen indies have wheel sensors on a pull-off card behind their counter, like packs of peanuts in a 1970s pub.
It will be much quicker to track down a decent independent and get them to plug in their electronic dooberie and read the fault codes.
r
Edited by rg on 12/10/2007 at 19:35
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Yeah, thanks for that, but i've got that part of it sorted now, it's the LHR sensor thats caput!, only trouble now is coughing up for a new one (50 odd quid plus vat at dealers), gonna try some of the independents as recomended by rg.
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They are £49.50 plus vat at GSF - not much cheaper
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Phil
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Worth noting that the 48 teeth ABS rings on the CV joint often rust away and fall off. The sensor has nothing to sense and the ABS light comes on.
.*********
Disconnect the drive shaft, drop the ball joint, tap the new ring into place with a bit of Locktite and bob's your father's ...
Easier and cheaper than doing an entire drive shaft.
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