Good morning, I have a 2001 Passat TDI 130 SE estate with 107k on the clock. It runs very well apart from one thing: it does not like accelerating above 3000 rpm. The engine hesitates and will accelerate but in a very jerky manner. Any thoughts very welcome please.
S
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Most hesitating/running problems on VW diesels seem to be caused by a failing MAF sensor.
Cheers
DP
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04 Grand Scenic 1.9 dCi Dynamique
00 Mondeo 1.8TD LX
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Mines's a turbo petrol but the MAF sensor caused similar probs. I disconnected it and apart from a reluctance to idle, it ran like a dream again. A quite easy test. Exchange unit was about £80 from the VW dealer. Not difficult to disconnect or replace.......
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Could be worth disconnecting the multiplug on the MAF sensor, then reconnecting / unplugging a few times to "wipe" the connectors. Often a dirty or oxidised connector can cause this.
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Hi, same thing happened to a GOLF GT TDI I had ( now sold). It will be the MAF. However if you take the part no off the MAF and take it to a Merc dealer. You maybe able to get the same sensor for nearly half the price of a VW one.
Good luck
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Thanks for all the advice. My mechanic disconnected the MAF sensor but it didn't make any difference and the engine still hesitated under heavy load. He also checked all the pipes but found no leaks. Any other thoughts?
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EGR valve stuck open, or sluggish to close?
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Blocked fuel filter?
Disconnecting a MAF is not a test. Checking it's signal voltage meets specifications, or comparing the ECU's target airflow against the actual reading is far better.
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Had the same thing on a 2006 2.0 TDI. Took it in and it turned out to be a blocked fuel filter and also a dodgy fuel pump. The filter was put down to the fact that these days VW do not include its replacement in the service schedule but the quality of fuel is not what it once was.
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Try this
Power loss on TDI 90s and 110s over 3,000rpm can be cured by replacing a thin hose that runs from the exhaust, near the turbo, to the ECU.
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Raman
Where do you find this tripe?
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Raman copied and pasted that 'quote' from the Car-by-Car Breakdown. It seems to be used in the reviews against any model using the vw group 90/110bhp engine.
Although that's obviously not the same engine as the op asked about.
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Unsurprisingly; VAG felt no need to pipe exhaust gas into the ECU.
Early TDi ECUs had an integral MAP sensor; but IIRC no PD ever used that system.
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Shhh! Screwloose, you'll re-activate the idiot design department at VAG if you're not careful.
Sucesses to date are a fuse box on top of a battery where it gets corroded to bits by the acid fumes (Golf & clones). Then we get a plenum chamber which does not drain and wets the comfort control electroncs via the pollen filter "seal" (Passat & clone).
Not wishing to be outdone in the mechanical department, spare wheels firmly screwed valve side down so they are never checked by the dealers and nearly always flat and, my favourite, a black dipstick on a diesel. Finding the oil level in poor light is a frustrating exercise.
We'd better gloss over the documentataion issues regarding cambelts and diesel lubricating oil.
The boost pressure transducer within the ECU is a good one and reminds me of the time when I used to design these for much larger engines. Given that the ECU is an IP56 sealed unit (damn well needs to be on a VW - see above), imagine what happens if the seal in the boost pressure transducer inside the box fails.
All of a sudden - a sealed box which sees boost pressure. Lid bows disturbingly and then pops off with a loud bang.
Guess how I found out.
659.
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659
IP56 - that's "risk of light showers within 25 miles" isn't it? I never knew that they were supposed to be sealed....
Most Shalraxy boxes so afflicted are full of solid oil sludge - I always work on... "if it's drippin', it's gettin' a new one!"
You forgot door seals that don't; ABS units placed to corrode; coil-over-plugs that cook; push-in ABS sensors; VR6 timing chains; a V5 engine! The comments of most dealer techs [and now management] are unrepeatable.
Their slavish following of the British-Leyland "How not to build a reliable car" manual is flattering, but ultimately will bring their downfall too.
[Assuming that Merc doesn't beat them to it....]
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Ok have finally plucked up the courage and taken car into a main VAG dealer this morning after my local mechanic informed me that the MAF meter was not the problem. Inevitably the VAG dealer have just called me quoting £510 for removing and replacing " the injector seals. They also say they want to replace the cambelt (car has done 110k miles and had cambelt last replaced at 70k). A few other items bring the bill to north of £1k. So I am picking vehicle up this afternoon without having work done as can't afford it. Should I be able to get this done cheaper by an indepent garage? Advice please !!
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I can't believe any dealer can think someone will just swallow a £1k+ bill on a six year old mass market family saloon. I know someone who ran a Lotus Elise up to 100,000 miles and never got a bill close to that.
Have you got a local diesel specialist that you can try? You won't be paying £80+ per hour and are likely to find a tech who knows what they are talking about.
Cheers
DP
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04 Grand Scenic 1.9 dCi Dynamique
00 Mondeo 1.8TD LX
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Thanks DP. I don't know of a diesel specialist local to me (Basingstoke) . If anyone could suggest one I would be very grateful.
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Hi Charlesa,
Sorry to jump on this thread right at the end but I have used a company over in Slough (if that's not too far from you) called Audi Volkswagen Independant Technicians (AVIT) I believe they are contactable on 01753 532900. They were very helpful and a lot cheaper than a main dealer. Just to let you know - I do not work for them or am associated with them in any way shape or form!
If you do find a decent diesel specialist locally then please let me know as Slough is a bit of a trek for me!
Cheers
R
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Just skimming through this thread, this sounds like a failure of the Mass Airflow meter. (Is that the same as a MAFF sensor??).
The classic symptoms are that on VAG 90/110/130 bhp 1.9 tdi engines the performance slowly deteriorates and eventually will not rev above 3000rpm under load. Fit a new airflow meter which is after the airfilter housing and the car should be back to its old self.
As listed on previous threads I have had these replaced at £200 (garage) or £60 from GSF fitted myself in 15minutes.
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