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As TVM advises and I mentioned, you have to join up the two links.
It doesn't work in Firefox and the Symantec website states that IE 5.5 or higher has to be used.
Or another way, but a slightly different page, from your www.symantec.com/home_homeoffice/index.jsp link, click on the 2006 Product Updates link in the Support panel.
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What's for you won't pass you by
{Both of Stuartli's replies combined - DD}
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We bought a new PC last month, and finallly it means that we can have broadband without the whole thing falling over and dying. Or so I thought.
Started installing everything today and it's been nothing but problems. 'Easy install', it said. I used to teach people about computers, but it's baffled me!
The PC is running Vista. My laptop is running Windows XP. The computer is three rooms away from the master phone socket and if we plug the router into any of the other phone extensions in the house (with filters fitted) the set up returns an ASDL problem. So the only option is to have the wireless router in the hall, where there is no room for the PC. For these reasons, we've been trying to set up wireless instead of just using the ethernet cable provided, and I've done the whole set up on my laptop, as I could sit in the hall with it.
Set up worked fine on the laptop, and the wireless adapter card SEEMS to be working fine in terms of finding and holding the connection (had to do it all manually though as the set up CD from the ISP wouldn't recognise that I had it installed). I'm online with it now.
The PC is a different story. The ISP set up disk again wouldn't recognise the wireless adapter (USB this time) so I've been trying to connect to the network manually and then set up the connection with the ISP manually, like I've done with the laptop.
I can see the network I've created, and I can put in the password but I can't connect to the network (for an 'unknown reason' - thanks windows!). Even though I don't move the little USB thing, the signal strength varies from fair to good to not there at all. Both the adapters we've bought are Belkin, and on the laptop I can open a control panel to sort out the connection, or decide to control it through windows, but on the PC the shortcut is broken.
I phoned Belkin, who said I needed to talk to the ISP as it's their router (even though I don't think the problem is with the router as it's working fine with the adapter in the laptop). I phoned the ISP who said they don't have any support or fixes for wireless and I should just get a really long ethernet cable. But this would mean we can't use the laptop and the PC, just the PC. They said they understood the problem but couldn't help.
The card I have in my laptop had a card with it saying it was not Vista compatible, but the USB adapter for the PC didn't. Is this the problem? Is it not Vista compatible? It seems to half work, in that I can see the router and the network, I just can't connect to it. The staff in the shop I bought the adapters from said that there are no totally compatible adapters around yet, but that most do work with Vista. Were they right, or just fobbing me off?
Has anyone managed to read this far? Any suggestions? Normally I know what I'm doing with PCs but Vista seems quite different and I can't find the things I would normally use? Am loathe to get someone in to help as the room the PC is in is such a mess!
Argh.
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Vista? Oh dear - best of luck
< slinks away >
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Which flavour of Vista are you using? Some of them deal with wireless networks in a slightly different way to the others, seemingly to make roaming around more tricky and therefore force you onto the more expensive versions.
The issue really is more likely to be with the adaptor than the router - can you check the status of the Belkin kit in the device manager and make sure it appears to have no problems? Belkin do have early Vista drivers for mosty of their adaptors now - if you have the 7051 adaptor (which is probably the most common USB desktop one) you can grab a driver set here:-
www.belkin.com/support/article/?lid=en&pid=F5D7051...1
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>>.. Any suggestions? Normally I know what I'm doing with PCs but Vista seems quite different
it may help if you give details of the hardware - eg. router and usb adapter make/model.
in the absence of that, the best you can do is look up:
www.belkin.com/support/vista/
to see whether new drivers/firmware updates have been issued.
( i know that for my netgear stuff, vista comptible updates have been released in dribs and drabs for old hardware ).
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Can anyone recommend a decent wireless/ADSL/hub?
My trawls on the 'net don't seem to be bringing up any clear conclusions.
I'm on XP.
r
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PG,
Which Belkin adaptor do you have? Got a friend with PC on Vista HP, similar issue, they have a Belkin F5D7050 (as do we which is fine on XP Pro), it was a matter or working out exactly which version of the adaptor they have (there are a few suffixed by ".3000" etc) and downloading the Vista driver. If the PC is not internet enable download (though "save" rather than "run") the drivers to your lap top then burn to CD.
Regards.
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Is this a wireless problem or a windoze networking issue or both ?
Forget about the windows network for a while - if the underlying network doesnt work then it certainly will not and there are plenty of things that stop windoze networking from working.
Are you able to connect at a tcp/ip level between the PCs and the router and thence out to the interweb - assume so cos you'posted the issue.
Are you using security on the wireless ? what method ? WPA-PSK? are you getting dhcp to provide the ip details. Are the PCs patched up to date - there was a patch to fix some issue with WPA on XP - dont remember the details.
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rg, I have been throught this myself so know what you are facing! I am now on my third wireless box in as many years and this one is by far the best. Now using a 3Com wireless/ADSL/hub box which is brilliant. Easy to set up, stable, secure and with a good signal range. Best of luck.
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The PC is a different story. The ISP set up disk again wouldn't recognise the wireless adapter (USB this time) so I've been trying to connect to the network manually and then set up the connection with the ISP manually like I've done with the laptop.
I don't understand this bit. Why would you out the ISP's disk in again? Those things are ususally to be avoided as they tend to load all sorts of rubbish. All the connection information is held in the router, so if it works with the laptop then that's OK.
I can see the network I've created and I can put in the password but I can't connect to the network (for an 'unknown reason' - thanks windows!). Even though I don't move the little USB thing the signal strength varies from fair to good to not there at all.
It's hopeless trying to do these things without a good wireless connection. It could well be a Vista driver issue, but can you move (at least temporarily) the router and PC nearer each other?
Also try it without security and see if that works. Some XP PC's seem to need the password typing in HEX, rather than ASCII.
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Thanks all for trying!
I had been mistakenly informed that you could either have the computer connected to the router by ethernet cable, and the same for the laptop, or use both wireless. I had been told that you couldn't have the PC connected by cable and the laptop wireless.
Turns out this is not the case, and following the purchase of an extra long ethernet cable this morning, my dad is downstairs on the PC online and I am upstairs on the laptop, wirelessly posting this update.
Maybe we'll revisit the wireless for the PC issue at a later date, but for now it's all working (and my mum doesn't really mind the extra cable!)
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fair enough - but make sure that you have at least wpa set up on the wireless side not just wep
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Hi,
Thought I would share a few thoughts re Office 2007.
Being used to Office 2002 and 2000 my initial impressions were not great however once I had changed the blue theme to silver and started to use it I realised that the "ribbon" menu approach is very effective and quick, also I have found some nice little features in Outlook, Word and Excel.
As with 2003, 2007 has no shortcut bar however it is so easy to make a Windows tool bar. Save a bunch of shorcuts in a folder, right click the start bar, select toolbars>new tool bar and point it at the folder containing the short cuts, the drag the new toolbar off the start bar and anchor it where the Office shortcut bar would have been, right clicking allow all sorts of customisation and the icons can be dragged and dropped to change the order, works a treat.
However Office 2007 also brings Windows Desktop Search. Get rid of it! As a search function it does not find everything (it missed an .exe file that the std serch comanion found without trouble) however it indexes so as to apparently allow faster searches. The indexxing is seemingly constant however once it had stopped indexing my F-Secure IS kicked off real time scanning, triggered by the fact that a programme (WDS) had been indexing, I initially thought it was an F-Secure problem (perhaps it is in that they need to be compatible with MS systems) though getting rid of Windows Desktop Search settled it all down nicely.
Regards.
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I am aware that this used to be an issue, 32bit Windows seeing a max of 4GB including virtual and graphics memory etc, however I thought that things had moved on because manufactuers are selling 4GB systems.
My new machine is recording 4GB in the BIOS and only 3GB in Windows, my issue is paying £100 extra for 2GB memory and only benefitting from 1Gb of it?
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
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32 bit Windows XPcan only address 4gb of memory in total and your swapfile is part of this limit. If you turn this off you'll be able to see your 4gb of physical memory, but unfortunately many apps demand virtual memory even though there's clearly no need for it and so may get stroppy as a result. Memory on video and sound cards isn't included in this limit as local memory management will just be handed off to the controller on the card.
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Memory on video and sound cards isn't included in this limit as local memory management will just be handed off to the controller on the card.
>>
I have been looking into this and it is reported that video memory is an issue, for instance duel gfx SLi systems with 2 x 768MB can mean that Windows may only see 2GB of the 4GB installed.
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You know, you're right - my apologies. I didn't realise that XP provided a flat 4gb space for everything and memory-mapped devices into it. It's like we're back in the 1980s again.
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You know you're right - my apologies. I didn't realise that XP provided a flat 4gb space for everything and memory-mapped devices into it. >>
It is not just XP, Vista is the same, only 64bit XP Pro and 64bit Vista are different and drivers are the issue with both.
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Hello,
My new machine has an NVidia 8600GTS graphics card. I ordered this machine with a 17" screen with a view to using my excellent year old 19" screen with the new PC and the new 17" with my old machine.
However I cannot get a good screen image with the new machine, both the 17" and 19" screens are fine with my old PC though I cannot balance the video output on the new PC to give a truly satifisfatory screen image. The best I can do is achieve warm yellowish whites and pink/blue greys. This can be corrected to a degree by the monitor adjustments however if a TFT ot LCD monitor is adjusted so there is an inbalance between the three colours then if effects the colour of the image when not viewed directly.
Furthermore some on screen logos etc are renderered strangely, for instance the word "start" in the XP Pro start button looks very pixelated which is not the case on my my old PC and notebook which are also XP Pro. This is also the same on some websites where the 8600GTS seems to render some logos or graphic designs far less smoothly that the ATI card in the old machine.
I wonder if it is because the 8600GTS is a new card and the drivers are a bit flaky. Otherwise it could be due to the DVI to VGA adaptor that is necessary because the 8600GTS has only DVI outputs where as the ATI card on the old PC has one VGA and one DVI output.
Any ideas?
Many thanks.
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Bear in mind that LCD monitors have a native resolution, ie. the physical number of pixels across and down. For a typical 15" monitor this will be 1024x768 and so the output will appear crystal clear. If you attempt to run this resolution of a 17" monitor where the native resolution is 1280x960 or 1024 then you'll get a pixellated image because you're effectively spreading virtual pixels across a number of phyical ones.
As for the colour balance, you may have received a utility on the monitor's driver disk that worsk alongside a small strip of plastic to stick on the screen. Following the calibration process that the utility will walk you through usually gives a reasonable balance. You might also want to check that the gamma settings in your graphics card/screen properties aren't set to something odd. Monitors can differ though - I run two 17" viewsonics side by side and one is always slightly warmer than the other even when using an identical colour profile.
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Both the 17" and 19" have a native resolution of 1280 x 1024 and both are fine on the old PC with the ATI card. Re gamma I have tried the Adobe utility (I use Photoshop etc) and that has not helped. The only way to get a well balanced image is to make major adjustments on the monitor (reducing the red) however that has the effect of making the display unsatisfactory when viewed from anywhere but head on.
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If you're seeing pixelated text displayed then it's probably because anti-aliasing is not turned on for fonts in XP (aka Cleartype).
So at least go to Display -> Properties -> Appearance -> Effects
and then make sure the method used for smoothings screen fonts is Cleartype - which uses anti-aliasing techniques. On a CRT does not make a difference but on an LCD is does.
Rob
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If you're seeing pixelated text displayed then it's probably because anti-aliasing is not turned on for fonts in XP (aka Cleartype). So at least go to Display -> Properties -> Appearance -> Effects and then make sure the method used for smoothings screen fonts is Cleartype - >>
Excellent, solved the pixelated logos etc! Though there is a trade off, a shadow around the desktop icon text. I have unchecked "always use Cleartype for HTML" in IE7 since using it because I find the text sharper without Cleartype.
Thanks for getting to the bottom of the issue though!
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Cheddar you're welcome. Surprised it's not on by default as on a CRT it makes little difference (the CRT tube does the anti-aliasing anyway).
Rob
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Downloaded it today, I like its feel. Any issues I should be aware of or should I stick with good old Firefox ?
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Apparently there were severa; security issues on the first day of issue. See:
www.theregister.co.uk/2007/06/14/safari_holes_plug.../
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Thanks Stuart - not using it any more !
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The holes were plugged sharpish, but bear in mind it's beta software that is being ported from a system that has a different (and so far more effective) approach to security. This seems to have been the issue with Safari in its first few days; it expected the OS not to allow certain behaviours at such a deep level, though really the developers should have seen it coming (maybe they did ;-)). The same "holes" were not really holes as such on the Mac and the Mac version of the beta has not been patched. I think it will be ok by the time it is out of beta, but even so, I don't use Safari on my Mac because it's not as good, and not as extensible, as Firefox. Most Mac users seem to agree. Firefox on the Mac is not as good as on Linux or Windows, by the way, so it says quite a lot about Safari; it's just not a power user browser. I do like Safari's RSS system however, and it is fast.
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As Baskerville said, the holes were plugged very quickly so if it was downloaded today they shouldn't be an issue.
Impressions from the perspective of someone who's Apple-curious but hates iTunes:- odd looking fonts (bold and slightly fuzzy);
- very fast (most of the time);
- doesn't behave like a normal Windows application - you can't minimise it by single clicking on its taskbar button;
- too many ragged edges, even to call it a 'public beta' - I couldn't even find a button for saving preferences, although it did seem to retain them after closing.
Even when all obvious bugs are ironed out, I can't see any reason to use it in preference to Firefox or Opera. The case for it will be even weaker when the Windows version of Konqueror (with which it shares some underlying code) comes along.
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Impressions from the perspective of someone who's Apple-curious but hates iTunes:- odd looking fonts (bold and
slightly fuzzy);
Apple and Microsoft have different approaches to fonts; it looks fine on the Mac, but presumably one of the things they have to work out is how to make the font rendering more Windows-like, and close to what Windows users like. The difference is summed up thus: in the Mac approach what you see on the screen is pretty much what you see if you print it; Windows fonts are optimised to look good on the screen.
very fast (most of the time);doesn't behave like a normal Windows application - youcan't minimise it by single clicking on its taskbar button;
It's not yet a properly optimised Windows application--not by a long shot--but Safari 3 is a decent browser on the Mac and if only it had better extensibility (and bookmark synching without paying for .Mac) I might consider using it more often.
too many ragged edges even tocall it a 'public beta' - I couldn't even find a button for saving preferences although it did seem to retain them after closing.
This is how Macs work. You don't have to save anything in preferences ever. Just change and close. It always remembers. Why go through an extra click?
Even when all obvious bugs are ironedout I can't see any reason to use it in preference to Firefox or Opera. The case for it will be even weaker when the Windows version of Konqueror (with which it shares some underlying code) comes along.
No, I can't either, unless you buy an iPhone or, eventually, use Apple's (as yet unannounced) web-based applications and services.
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Just had a new version self install. Looks like "oh dear we released it a mite early" from Apple.
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Can anyone recommend a decent wireless/ADSL/hub?
My trawls on the 'net don't seem to be bringing up any clear conclusions - users seem to either love or hate a particular product!
I'm on XP.
Hands-on observations appreciated!
{moves question to correct place in thread, as per the PLEASE NOTE message at the top - DD}
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I had to send back a Belkin wifi router, though it came with a lifetime warranty, so I got a newer model replacement, but it took 10 days. I've also had Netgear wifi bits fail. Linksys (owned by Cisco) always seems to get good reviews.
If it's for working from home, then get two. It's cheaper than being without any email/internet for days while they send another one!
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Well, our Belkin model's been running for a good 18 months now and seems robust: Power supply went, so I had to buy a replacement (out of warranty) The Boys give it a good workout with youtube and similar. Just bought a supplementary aerial for the machine that's furthest away and that has improved performance. I'ts an F5D7630 UK model.
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Tim{P}
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I've also had poor experience of Belkin gear, but no trouble at all from Netgear and Linksys. I've been "collecting" this stuff since 2002 and it is all still in use apart from a Belkin access point and a Draytek router which was struck by lightning. On the whole I prefer the Netgear admin interface. My (non-wireless) router is currently a Draytek, which has also been flawless for the last year--the Draytek gives us an additional two phone lines using normal phones on VoIP.
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Thank-you kindly, all!
Delving further, I've not read many bad things about the BT Voyager 2110 yet.
Anyone usedone?
rg
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First router (non-wireless as that cost big money back then) was a Linksys. After a few years the power supply died and a replacement PSU was a fair chunk of a new router. But it was great.
Next was also a Linksys, now wireless, and that lasted about four years (power supply again! VERY hot to touch and dead). So I bought... another Linksys and the logic was:
- Original PSU was a well known fault (not to me) and redesigned - new PSU's a third the size
- Next PSU not as well redesigned as hoped - still 12v and now they are 5v I think to reduce this problem
But the router now only cost about £40 so a bit of a no-brainer.
If you're a bit-torrent user then the latest Linksys router's might cause some issues. They moved from using Linux to another operating system to reduce the memory in the device (saving pennies but pennies times millions of units is a worthwhile saving). So using thungs like bit-torrent can sometimes cause issues because the device cannot track connections and falls over.... only seen that once or twice.
If I'd had the time I'd have got the Linux version of the router with more memory... but failed router meant only I had a connection to my PC and step-son unhappy. In fact I'd have fobbed him off but it failed the day before we went to Rome in January and left him without the Internet for 4 days - oh my god can you do that to a teenager :-)
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Bought a caddy and a new 160gb hard drive yesterday, which I naively thought would be plug and play. Response I get is "device not recognized". Machine is also telling me "No drivers are installed for this device" Caddy is powered, and, on switching on, an LED glows blue and hard drive spins. I'm running XP home on this machine. Suggestions, please? and a silly question: does the hard drive need to be formatted before inserting into the caddy?
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Tim{P}
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I had a very similar problem, but with an internal drive, a while back. I kept thinking I'd fixed the problem, only to find that actually I'd just reached the next little issue.
Rather than take you through all the issues I came across, here's the thread (on another forum) where it was all ironed out, bit by bit. Hope it's helpful to you;
www.alfaowner.com/Forum/way-off-topic/43441-2nd-ha...l
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Thanks Bazza: no joy yet.... I'm wondering if I should unplug every other USB device initially?
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Tim{P}
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Ahhhh! It was the Right Click on "My Computer", select "Manage" and "Disk Management" that cracked it. even then, it requires a little bit of guesswork along the way... the disk is, however, being formatted as I type, so I guess I'm en route now. If it doen't work, I'll let you know.. So much for "Plug and Pray!"
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Tim{P}
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Since updating my antispyware and antivirus product (Webroot Spy Sweeper with Sophos Antivirus) my email no longer functions. One suggested solution is to uninstall and then reinstall my firewall which is ZoneAlarm. If I uninstall it using the "Uninstall ZoneAlarm Security" facility that can be accessed via All Programs > ZoneAlarm, will I then see an "Install ZoneAlarm Security" option in the ZoneAlarm list?
Another possible solution requires me to know the "Outgoing SMTP mail server" and the "Incoming POP3 mail server". Where can I find these?
(Please be gentle with me ~ I'm the Backroom computer duffer!)
--
L\'escargot.
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Another possible solution requires me to know the "Outgoing SMTP mail server" and the "Incoming POP3 mail server". Where can I find these?
Snail - these are eary to find, even for a shelled creature....
Assuming you are using Outlook Express, then....
In the Tools menu, drop down to Accounts.
Select your account and click Properties on the right and then select the Servers tab. The information you need will be there.
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Snail - these are eary to find even for a shelled creature....
Thanks Espada III.
Eary ;-) when you know how.
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L\'escargot.
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Eary ;-) when you know how.
Woo hoo! All done and dusted.
--
L\'escargot.
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Woo hoo! All done and dusted.
I spoke too soon, because I'm still having problems. One possible solution from my antispyware/antivirus supplier is ................
"Modify the POP3 and SMTP ports used in Spy Sweeper's E-mail Attachment Shield to redirect communication or prevent the shield from accessing the commonly used ports (for example change the E-mail Attachment options: POP3 port from 110 to 10110, and SMTP port 25 to port 10025). "
How do I do this please?
--
L\'escargot.
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"Modify the POP3 and SMTP ports used in Spy Sweeper's E-mail Attachment Shield to redirect communication or prevent the shield from accessing the commonly used ports (for example change the E-mail Attachment options: POP3 port from 110 to 10110 and SMTP port 25 to port 10025). " How do I do this please?
Well, I found out myself how to do it, and I did it, but it hasn't helped. I'm flummoxed.
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L\'escargot.
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By trial and error I've found that the problem lies within ZoneAlarm. To get Outlook Express to reliably connect I have to regularly edit the firewall settings for outgoing and incoming email servers. It's a tedious solution but it's the only one I've found so far.
Has anyone else had problems with Outlook Express since updating any of their security software(s)?
--
L\'escargot.
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l'escargot - you initially said: "Since updating my antispyware and antivirus product (Webroot Spy Sweeper with Sophos Antivirus) my email no longer functions. "
now you say "By trial and error I've found that the problem lies within ZoneAlarm".
there must have been something you changed for this behaviour to start suddenly.
note: i do not use zonealarm - i am a fan of agnitum-outpost which is not free :-( .
in the absence of details of your setttings in the zonealarm "program control" tab, all i can suggest is you search here:
forums.zonealarm.com/zonelabs/
www.zonealarm.com/store/content/support/za/znalmMa...n
download.zonelabs.com/bin/media/pdf/zaclient70_use...f
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Dalglish,
This is the full story.
When Outlook Express fails to connect, I get the following error message.
?Your server has unexpectedly terminated the connection. Possible causes for this include server problems, or a long period of inactivity. Account: ?pop.orangehome.co.uk?. Server: ?pop.orange home.co.uk?. Protocol: POP3, Port 110, Secure (SSL): No, Error Number Ox800CCC0F?
My antispyware/antivirus (Webroot Spy Sweeper with Sophos antivirus) says the following.
?Some personal firewall applications may block Spy Sweeper connections, and one may not be able to send/receive E-mail messages. In this case, the user can try the following to troubleshoot the issue:
If the personal firewall provides whitelisting capability (the addition of Trusted programs), SpySweeper.exe and SpySweeperUI.exe should be whitelisted (Trusted and granted access).
Disable the personal firewall (this may be a component of a larger suite).
Uninstall the firewall product and then re-install it after the installation of Spy Sweeper (the order in which the products are installed may cause conflicts).
Disable Spy Sweeper's E-mail Attachment Shield
Modify the POP3 and SMTP ports used in Spy Sweeper's E-mail Attachment Shield to redirect communication or prevent the shield from accessing the commonly used ports (for example change the E-mail Attachment options: POP3 port from 110 to 10110, and SMTP port 25 to port 10025).
If you are still running into difficulties with a particular application, Webroot has researched several personal third party firewall application, and has written up the following rough guidelines to allow the E-mail Attachment Shield to remain active while using the following products:
Zone Alarm:
View Instructional Video
To start out: The POP3 and SMTP E-mail servers used by your e-mail application need to be known, and are often located in the email program under the account information (you may need to contact your ISP if the incoming POP3 server or outgoing SMTP server address is not known).
Insure that SpySweeperUI.exe and Spysweeper.exe have full access to the internet (look under Program Control > Program Tab).
****
Next, click on the Firewall option > Zones tab.
Click on the Add button on the bottom right, and select Host/Site.
For Zone, select Trusted
For Host name, put in your Outgoing SMTP mail server
Example: Comcast e-mail outgoing mail server is smtp.comcast.net
For description, enter a description (such as "Comcast SMTP")
Then click on the Lookup button. The box next to it should populate with IP addresses. Then click OK.
Repeat step 3 above to add the Incoming POP3 mail server:
Zone = Trusted
Host name = your Incoming POP3 mail server
Description = example "Comcast POP3"
Click the Lookup option and let the box populate with IP addresses. Click OK. ?
When I do all that the email connects, but only once. If I then repeat from **** except highlighting the server names, then clicking on Edit before clicking on Lookup the list of sites invariably changes. After clicking on OK (i.e. to apply the edited list) the email will then connect ~ but again only once. I have to keep repeating this procedure every time I want to use email ~ and it?s tedious.
It appears that the updated version of my antispyware/antivirus and Zonealarm conflict with one another. Spy Sweeper puts the blame on ZoneAlarm.
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L\'escargot.
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Disable Spy Sweeper's E-mail Attachment Shield
This is something I haven't tried, and (since Spy Sweeper warns against it) I am loath to do so.
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L\'escargot.
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l'escargot:
to quote someone from another forum regarding another provider's email scanning -
www.pcreview.co.uk/forums/thread-444140.php
"..... service1.symantec.com/SUPPORT/nav.nsf/docid/200211...6
Disabling Email Scanning does not leave you unprotected against viruses that
are distributed as email attachments. Norton AntiVirus Auto-Protect scans
incoming files as they are saved to your hard drive, including email and
email attachments. Email Scanning is just another layer on top of this. To
make sure that Auto-Protect is providing the maximum protection, keep
Auto-Protect enabled and run LiveUpdate regularly to ensure that you have
the most recent virus definitions. ....
also, this may be worth trying : oe6>tools>accounts>l'escargotemail>properties>advanced>server-timeout [increase the time ]
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Thanks Dalglish.
For the time being (and against my better judgement) I've disabled the Email Attachments Shield in Spy Sweeper, and this has returned Outlook Express to normal. I'm going to monitor the situation periodically to see whether I can turn the shield back on again in the future. Failing that I'll look into changing my firewall to one which doesn't cause this conflict.
--
L\'escargot.
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Try COMODO Personal Firewall Pro. It's free and is excellent at preventing "leakage" from your P.C.
--
Roger. (Costa del Sol, España)
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Further to my previous post on display issues I have come to an accomodation with the supplier, apparently unlike some DVi graphics cards the 8600GTS does not work well with DVi to VGA adaptors.
So I am getting a DVI monitor.
Should I get a 20" 1050x1680 widescreen or a 20" 1200x1600 4:3 (which is similar in aspect ratio to my current 19" 1024x1280)?
I like the idea of widescreen in some respects however the 20" widescreen image area is about an inch shallow than the 19", i.e. wider and thinner (a 22" widescreen is not an option).
I used to be undecided though now I am not so sure!
Any thoughts or considerations?
Thanks.
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As you rightly state, an equivalent screen size widescreen monitor (or LCD TV for that matter) delivers a smaller display than a standard 4:3 model.
I've just replaced a 21in CRT TV with an LCD model and had to buy a 26in model to fill the existing cabinet in which the set is housed - even a 23in widescreen model seemed small compared to the outgoing TV.
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FWIW we've just bought a load of new Dell monitors at work, some people opted for 20" widescreen, me and a few others opted for 20" 'nornal'. Most of the folks who opted for widescreens regret the choice, as the normal 20 inchers seem bigger and more practical. Admittedly this in an office environment, where we're not watching many widescreen DVDs or suchlike, but I'm glad I chose the normal 20" - a Dell 2007FP, which is the first flat panel I've seen which looks as good as a CRT.
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Thanks SpamCan, the very same Dells.
My new machine has an NVidia 8600GTS graphics card. I ordered this machine with a std Dell 17" screen with a view to using my excellent year old 19" screen (VGA) with the new PC and the new 17" with my old machine. Dell have acknowledged that unlike some DVi graphics cards the 8600GTS does not work well with DVi to VGA adaptors. The sales guy indicated that the cost of returning the 17" screen is more than it is worth, this together with the need to resolve another minor issue has lead him to offer to supply a 2007WFP Ultrasharp widescreen for £70 !! and I keep the 17" as well, he also offered the 2007FP for £150, he can do the former at such a minimal cost it seems because it is on offer currently (£240 rather than £300) and he can apply the offer discount off the cost price, or something like that, and can justify it because it solves my problem. He cannot do the same on the 4:3 2007FP because it is not on offer hence it would cost me £80 more, hence I am having the widescreen.
Altogether they have bent over backwards to help!
Regards.
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The reason there are more and more widescreen monitors out there is they are actually cheaper to make than 4:3! It's all to do with how many screens can be cut out of the LCD panels and the widescreen aspect ratio means more screens per panel.
I think I'd be undecided between widescreen and 4:3 20" monitors because as you point out you lose a lot in terms of screen height.
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The reason there are more and more widescreen monitors out there is they are actually cheaper to make than 4:3! It's all to do with how many screens can be cut out of the LCD panels and the widescreen aspect ratio means more screens per panel.
It is down to maths, the greater the difference between the dimensions of the two sides of rectangles with a constant diagonal then the less the area, so a 20" widescreen is a smaller surface area than a 20"4:3:
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Not only is it down to maths, its also down to economics.
The screen panels are now being shared between TV's and PCs. The resulting increase in volume means its all much cheaper.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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>>offer to supply a 2007WFP Ultrasharp widescreen for £70 !! and I keep the 17" as well, he also offered the 2007FP for £150, he can do the former at such a minimal cost it seems because it is on offer currently (£240 rather than £300) and he can apply the offer discount off the cost price, or something like that, and can justify it because it solves my problem. He cannot do the same on the 4:3 2007FP because it is not on offer hence it would cost me £80 more, hence I am having the widescreen.>>
Now they cannot supply a 2007WFP Ultrasharp monitor (out of stock) so are suppling the 2007FP 4:3 instead, suits me even better.
I must reiterate, they really have bent over backwards to help!
Regards.
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Now they cannot supply a 2007WFP Ultrasharp monitor (out of stock) so are suppling the 2007FP 4:3 instead suits me even better. I must reiterate they really have bent over backwards to help!
Doh! I am now advised that they are supplying the widescreen monitor afterall, still can't complain.
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Hi, I have had a problem with the display quality on my new PC, it is a matter of colour balance not sharpness etc. The manufacturers sent an engineer with a "new" 8600GTS card however after fitting it he realised he had been given a refurbished card (this made no difference so I could have kept the original card though that is another story, see posts ref monitors), both the DVi sockets on the back of this card are very scratched as though plugs have been taken on and off a few times, however we also noticed that it said "refurbished" on the box.
They have now sent me another "new" card for me to fit myself, no problem there however while it looks new both the DVi sockets on the back of this card are also rather scratched as though plugs have been on and off etc, perhaps this is also a refurbished card or perhaps the scratches are from factory testing? However I did not notice these scratches on the card that was in the PC from new?
Any thoughts, Thanks.
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I would suggest it is very second hand. Can't imagine a new card is connected to a monitor more than twice before you get it - even on a built up PC. Once to test the card when card is manufactured & once by the PC manufacturer when testing the unit. In any case, I have an old P3 PC that I use to for testing things that must have had the monitor lead on & off it dozens of times without doing damage. The back of all the cards still look good as new.
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I have some stuff on DVD I'd like to upload to YouTube - It isn't copyright or anything. Can I do it ? Technically rather than ethically !
PU without his Mod Hard Hat on !
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say if one were to type into ones browser window www.youtube.com, one might be able then to click on the button called "help" and there perhaps one could go to the section labled "how do I upload videos"
maybe one called ask for help on here and be admonished for being so damn lazy.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Ok - Sorry.
PU without his Mod Hard Hat on !
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Zune UK
My son has a zune which was working fine on the computer, when he was using Vista RC1.
Now that RC1 has lapsed, as a freebie, he has gone back to using XP Home. The Zune now fails to be recognised on the computer. he has tried deleting the software, and reloading, but still the computer says "device not able to start, error code 10" It also will not charge. He has USB2 which it needs, but my machine only has USB1, which will not work with Zune anyway. However it does charge on my computer!
The zune therefore cannot have any music etc. added to it.
Anyone got any idea or help, in order to make it work.
Thanks
Colin
{subject header amended - DD}
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No idea what is wrong but charging on USB is hardware and not software related I would have thought. Maybe Vista/XP issue a red-herring and the USB connector in the case loose? Try another USB port on the back/front as these will no doubt connect to another USB header on the motherboard.
Another thought to prove which out of Vista, XP or the Zune - so he bought the only one then ;-) - is to plug in something else like an external hard disk unit to prove the USB port is still working. I say an external HD because the Zune will be recognised as a USB Mass Storage Device. Could use a USB compatible iPOD or similar - not generation 3 or earlier as these are Firewire only for sync.
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No idea what is wrong but charging on USB is hardware and not software related I would have thought.
I'm not so sure. I have a Sony Ericsson mobile phone and Creative MP3 player that charge via their USB data cables, but only on a PC with the necessary drivers installed. On the other hand, some devices only draw power from USB and aren't detected by the computer at all.
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>I'm not so sure
I am. USB ports have 5v power on two of the 4 pins, all the time the port is hardware active, and is windows device driver independent.
The question is however, is there always enough power at the device. Current through the hardware interface on the pc is limited and may not be enough for the device. It seems based on SJB's experience that the cable type, quality and length may be critical. A powered external hub usually overcomes these issues.
A use a mini powered hub installed in my car to provide a 5v supply to the various devices that use USB charging leads. Datawise its connected to nothing.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Thanks for the comments.
We have tried pugging the zune into the USB via the back - No charge
Both front and back USB,s work with the Camera and the Flash Memory attached. Plus the Zune charges when attached to my computer with a USB1.
Clicking on "my computer" The computer does not find the attached Zune, which pushes me towards a software problem. We have however reloaded the software to no change in the problem. We did have problems at first when my son was using Vista Beta version. Would you believe Vista was incompatible with the Zune. A Fix had to be downloaded from a non microsoft site. It then all worked fine, until Vista was removed and XP reloaded. No other problems with the computer XP works fine.
Typical Microsoft and other large company's in this very small world. With thousands of Brits going to the good old USA on holiday, and expat. yanks in the uk, how come the zune is not out in europe and has no email help, only a phone number in America. probabaly the same is 0871 at pounds per minute.
any other Zune uses out there having this problem, or working fine?
thanks
Colin
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all worked fine until Vista was removed and XP reloaded. No other problems with the computer XP works fine.
Could this be a DRM issue? Bear with me. The Zune was set up to work with a particular computer and a particular copy of Vista. Maybe it now thinks you are trying to connect it to a different computer to transfer music and that's not allowed.
>>any other Zune uses out there...?
Not many. Now you know why.
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I am. USB ports have 5v power on two of the 4 pins all the time the port is hardware active and is windows device driver independent.
Quite so, which is why USB mobile phone chargers work. However, I've found a couple of devices that won't charge via the data cable from the USB port unless drivers are installed on the PC. I'd love to charge my phone and MP3 player on a work PC but this doesn't seem to be possible, despite the ports being fine for devices that don't need drivers. This is obviously to do with the device rather than the PC. I thought it may be relevant here.
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Is there any easy way of arranging all your icons in aphabetical order, as opposed to whatever the obsure logic there is behind Mr Gates' 'name' sequence ?
please say yes, please, please, please.....
--
Go on, get out of the car...
www.mikes-walks.co.uk
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Right click in the desktop choose 'arrange by name'.
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which doesn't arrange them in alphabetical order
which is why I said
as opposed to whatever the obsure logic there is behind Mr Gates' 'name' sequence ?
;-)
--
Go on, get out of the car...
www.mikes-walks.co.uk
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which doesn't arrange them in alphabetical order
Mine does
which is why I said as opposed to whatever the obsure logic there is behind Mr Gates' 'name' sequence ?
what does your do then?
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Mine does too. They only thing it doesn't do is mix types. So programmes, folders, then documents are sorted alphabetically seperately.
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It's actually Sort By Name and works in most cases, including Bookmarks and Favourites in Firefox and IE.
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Recycle bin
share to web
sony ericsson
Adaware
Citrix
code39
googleearth
hp office jet
jasc
Mac...
quicktime
sony ericcson
toyota
toyota
sup...
component services
D...
Employer...
pall...
simon...
toyota
toyota...
and that is name sequence ?
--
Go on, get out of the car...
www.mikes-walks.co.uk
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Indeed it is.
mine is top left, reading down, in columns
Programes placed by windows, AND ARRANGED TO GRID BY ME, then shortcuts, then folders then names all in alphabetical order.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I take it that the short answer to my original question is 'no', then ?
--
Go on, get out of the car...
www.mikes-walks.co.uk
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The root cause is that your desktop is too messy, you shouldnt have prgram or data files onthere, just shortcuts.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Apologies in my case as I was referring to the Start menu etc.
The Arrange by Name method via Desktop>right click>Arrange Icons By would have been supported otherwise.
You could try dragging and dropping the icons into the order you require first and then Enabling Lock Desktop Items/Lock Web Items on Desktop (as appropriate) from the same route as the second paragraph.
PS
If you do a System Restore point afterwards, if the icons get into disarray again then the SR point will return them to the status quo.
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How about, right click, then align by grid, then drag them into the positionon your desktop that you want.
If that is the right, then I cannot believe that I have just answered a Computer Related Question!!!!
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Apart from the fact I had already suggested it just above...:-)
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During the process of looking for the solution to my Outlook Express problem I altered (meddled with!) the server timeout but failed to note the original setting and there isn't a default setting. I know it was towards the lower end of the available range ~ which is 30 seconds to 5 minutes. What would you recommend? I've currently got it set to 30 seconds. In practice what difference does it make?
--
L\'escargot.
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It is how long OE will attempt to connect to the ISP's servers before timing out, about a minute would be normal.
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Mine, which as cheddar has suggested is normal set at a minute, has always proved sufficient.
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Having just formatted my H.D. and reinstalled Windows XP, I was, shall we say, miffed to find that both shut down and start up were taking for ever and ever.
Researching on the web, I came across a link to a Microsoft support site on which this problem was addressed.
Here it is:- tinyurl.com/4aq4b
The cause commonly identified is a failure to properly unload user profiles at shut down. Microsoft have released a tool, downloadable from a link on the page I mentioned.
To resolve this issue, use the Microsoft User Profile Hive Cleanup Service (UPHClean). UPHClean monitors the computer while Windows is unloading user profiles and forces resources that are open to close. Therefore, the computer can unload and reconcile user profiles.
To download and install UPHClean, visit the following Microsoft Web site:-
tinyurl.com/495ga
This cures the problem in many cases, including mine.
I now have a PC which boots and shuts down faster than any I have ever owned!
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Roger. (Costa del Sol, España)
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I have a laptop that takes an age to shut down. Sometimes tempted to just take the battery off it takes so long.
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Aim low, expect nothing & dont be disappointed
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Nice one malteser, is suspect will resolve my problem from an earlier IHAQ withr egard to programmes hanging during user log-off. :-))
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I have an older P3 800Hz 512k pc running XP used by the kids especially my daughter's interminable Bebo and messenger. After upgrading another PC thought it would be a good idea to put the dvd player into it from the other machine. Windows Media player 11 doesn't even attempt to play them but Powerdvd does - almost. The dvd's are recognised quite happily but they do not play smoothly, it's all a bit jerky. Videos on CDs play without problems so it can't be the video card - rage 128 pro ultra gl agp driver version 6.13.10.5019 - or can it? Any advice most welcome.
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Do you have the hard drive and the DVD drive on the same IDE cable in the newly upgraded PC?
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quite possibly - I just slipped the cd drive out and the dvd drive in using the same cables. I take it this means I should see if there's a second IDE socket on the motherboard and use two cables?
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Try downloading and installing the standard K-Lite audio and video codecs pack from:
www.free-codecs.com/download/K_Lite_Codec_Pack.htm
This covers the vast majority of user requirements.
Also check that in Windows Media Player (Tools>Options>File Types) that all the File Types are Enabled, including DVD.
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thanks Stuartli - sent the link home and will try it.
ps all file types enabled.
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