Hi there,
My 1997 Petrol Combo (same as astra 1.4L) will start but will only keep running for about ten minutes then it stalls and won't start again for an hour or so.
I've changed the coil and regulator but it's still the same,
It's really annoying because i don't want to risk breaking down miles away from home.
Has anyone had a similar fault or know what it might be the problem?
I gave the paper clip test a go and hay presto!
Came up with "85" immobliser fault.
Question is, is anyone aware of common immobliser faults with these engines?
Is there a way of bypassing the immobliser?
The van isn't worth bringing to a dealer to fix and i need it to move house soon.
Any help would be great
John
{Subject header given a more meaningful title - DD}
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i would change the crank senser to be honest
ive not seen a corsa with an immobiliser problem once its running
fault reading corsas is a bit hit and miss unless it comes up egr i always find
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As bellboy says, the immobiliser is only used when the car is started. Once the 'handshake' is complete between the transponder chip in the key and the receiver unit on the steering column (which then confirms to the ecu that it's the correct key) then that's it. For safety reason you don't want the immobiliser kicking in at a crucial moment.
The only real way to know is to get it put on a fault code reader - that is if the ecu light is on. If it isn't then no fault codes will be stored. The paperclip trick is generally *ok* for finding faults, but on the odd occasion you have to bite the bullet and pay someone to read the codes for you. 99% of independant back street garages will be able to pull up any codes for you.
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ocj
We'll need the engine code on this one; there are four completely different engine/fuelling set-ups on a 1.4 Combo of that year.
If it's not on your paperwork; look on the block where it meets the gearbox immediately behind the rad.
Something from C14NZ to X14XE. Only some of them have crank sensors.
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thought these just had the 8 valve coil on the end engine fitted?
the crank sensers are £60 + i looked, (vauxhall) so maybe yes a proper readout ,unless theres a local scrappies handy for a s/h one?
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not uncommon for these engines to suffer with fuel temp sensor mommentarlly showing -80 degrees floods engine and then wont start untill fuel has evaporated wont show up as a code stored, and at about 12 pounds a quick and easy job, they are screwed into the manifold left handside coloured blue with two wires, possibly crank sensor but exspensive guess,immobiliser fault unlikely, as above reply handshake then forget !
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Cheers for the replys lads, I'll check out the engine code this eve and post it up.
I'll give the temp sensor a shot too.
nice one
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Well here's the engine number,
Hope it helps
C14NZ 19260477
Cheers
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ocj
I had a feeling that it would be that one. You've still got a distributor set-up there; with no coilpack, or even a crank sensor in the conventional sense.
Right; how does it stall? When coming to rest, or does it just cut dead at any speed?
If it dies coming down to idle, it could be the coolant temp sensor or it's connexions. If it just cuts out abruptly whilst driving, it could be the pick-up in the distributor; the coil-mounted amplifier; the ECU relay; the fuel pump relay, or the pump itself.
[Or, being a Vauxhall; about a dozen other oddball faults.]
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You know your engines Screwloose,
I won't even risk driving it down the road anymore. I'll start it, leave it idling then approx 10 minutes idling it will stall and won't start again for about and hour or two.
It'll turn over but won't start.
I've change the coil-mounted amplifier but it still does the same.
Can you tell me which is the fuel pump relay?
I swapped the relays in the fuse box for spares i had but wasn't sure of the fuel one.
Thanks
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After the car has run for ten minutes and stalled, what happens when you crank it over?
During cranking, with the air box off, if you look down the barrel of the throttle body injector, do you see fuel being injected? Have a look while the engine is running, so you know what it looks like when it is injecting, you should see the fuel being sprayed onto the back of the closed throttle valve.
During cranking do you get a spark? As this engine does have a distributor, check both at the coil king lead, and at one or two plug leads. Perhaps use and old spark plug held against the block with the gap set very wide to check if you don't have a tool to check with.
Check **both** of these items, if you know that it is not getting fuel, or not getting a spark, you are half way to finding the fault.
Number_Cruncher
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Well i checked the fuel and spark after the car had stalled and i seem to be getting both.
While i was trying an old plug on the body of the car to see if there was a spark the car tried to start again.
So i'm going to pick up another new set of plugs maybe one is faulty.
What do you think?
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ocj
What was it doing when you did last drive it on the road. Stopping when just idling for ten minutes doesn't give the same level of info.
The fuel pump relay can be almost anywhere on these; try behind the driver's side kick-panel, about a foot up from the floor.
NC's tests are very valid; I'd like to know those results too.
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Number_Cruncher
I'll get at this this evening.
good points to se if its spark or fuel related.
Screwloose
The lat time i drove it on the road there didn't seem to be any problem, it didn't stall at all.
just happen to have it idling in the drive one day and this started to happen.
I'm really appreciating the help guys.
At least i'm narrowing it down a bit.
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Well i checked the fuel and spark after the car had stalled and i seem to be getting both.
While i was trying an old plug on the body of the car to see if there was a spark the car tried to start again.
So i'm going to pick up another new set of plugs maybe one is faulty.
What do you think?
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ocj
Get it to stop [and fail to restart] before you remove the plugs. If they're all black and sooty, suspect the coolant temp sensor.
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Screwloose
It had already failed to start when i was using a different plug then the ones from the car to see if there was a spark and this is when it tried to restart.
They are a bit sooty.
The temp sensor? Is that the one to the back of the engine near the altenator pointing to the car or the one on top pointing to the bonnet?
thanks
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ocj
It's the one down the back of the engine; check it's plug terminals aren't spread and not making good contact.
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Will do thanks.
Do you know what the other sensor is ?
outta curiousity
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single wire is dash temp gauge the other one is as described in my earlier post
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Hi again,
Well i changed the temp sensor and tried a different set of plug leads and changed the fuel relay to be sure and the van still does the same thing.
Any ideas lads? it's really ticking me off now.
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ocj
It's getting a bit of a saga to read through now; but if I've read it correctly, then it's never stopped while driving - just failed to keep idling for long periods, even though there's still spark and fuel? Have I got that right?
You're going to have to try driving it. This could just be an engine that fouls it's plugs up when left idling. Many of these suffer from excessive piston blow-by coming through the breathers which can mess the fuelling up at idle; but has little effect on the road.
If you were losing the spark I'd suspect the hall-effect pick-up in the distributor; but apparently the spark is keeping going.
Is there any chance of an exhaust manifold leak?
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Screwloose
Tell me about it!
You've got it righ it only started to happen while idling for a while.
The spark is still there when it stalls.
I'll take it out for a spin tomorrow and see how it goes. If it breaks down i might just leave it there. (only messin)
Fingers crossed
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ocj
If it stops; get straight under that bonnet and check for a spark on the centre lead into the cap. Take an assistant to crank it for you. [They can help push it off the road too.]
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Well i took the van out last night to see how it would go and it was fine till i slowed down at a junction for traffic and it stalled and would not start back up again.
Checked for a spark and it was fine.
Car just wouldn't start
Just towed it home and left it there for the night.
Edited by Webmaster on 26/10/2007 at 01:46
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ocj
Time to get someone with a scanner to check the live data.
I've a feeling there's something making it overfuel as it warms up - although you've changed the temp sensor, I'm still wondering about it's connexions.
If it stops again; this time check for fuel spraying from the injector.
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Ya it looks like it'll have to go to the garage.
i did check to see if it was getting fuel from the injector and it seemed fine
so i'm stumped. I'll tinker around over the weekend but then i think the mechanic will get it
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I again,
I still haven't got this prob sorted. brought it to garage and they couldn't find anything wrong, But i ws messing with it today and noticed that if i leave the petrol cap off the car will run alot longer.
Whats with this is there some sort of pressure regulator in the tank?
Any help
Cheers
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sounds like the tank vent is blocked however i think that these vehicles have a carbon canister so the tank vapour vents to the canister when you say that it runs a lot longer how much longer, have you had a emmision check done at a friendly garage this will tell if it is running rich and causeing it flood
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Cheers topbloke,
Do you know where i'd find the tank vent?
It use to run for about 10 mins now it'll run for half an hour or so before it cuts out and it's easier to start after now.
I haven't had the emmisions checked.
I can't get the lamba sensor of to try that either.
Thanks
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Right guys she's heading to the breakers if i can't get it sorted now. very fustrating.
Took the petrol cap off and she drove for about 80 or 90 miles without a prob but now it's gone back to stopping at random again.
Any ideas as a last resort????
thanks
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drop the tank and see if pickup pipe is getting blocked
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cheers bell boy,
i'll try anythig at this stage,
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It's quite possible that this engine bears absolutely no resemblance to our old Fiesta 1.1 ('95) and what I'm about to say is absolute rubbish ...... but ...... the Fiesta used to stall in a similar fashion to your Combo, ocj. After everything had been checked out, it turned out to be blockages in various pipes in the viscinity of the rocker-box cover caused by emulsified oil ('mayonaise'). The strange thing was that it would start OK with a tow.
The remedy was to stick your finger in the cover via the oil filler (stone cold engine) and clear out as much gunk as you could from under the cover and from the base of the filler cap. If this exercise was performed regularly, it kept the problem at bay!
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Thanks Waino,
I hear what your saying. I'll che3ck it out, i know there's a wire mesh under the rocker cover which could get blocked. This i'll have to check out to.
Appreciate the help.
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I had the van in with another mechanic and he told me that this model doesn't have a crank shaft sensor.
Could this be true or did he just want rid, He couldn't tell me what the problem might be.
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