Using diesel fuel as a flushing oil, outcomes?
I`ve heard about it for years and have always been horrified at the thought of the camlobe pressures (etc) when Derv is used as a flushing oil. But on another forum, someone has just run a petrol engine for 30mins at tickover on derv instead of engine oil with the oil pressure light on the whole time.
Someone else did this at 1,500 revs to keep the pressure light out.
As usual I`m interested in any evidence one way or the other of outcomes from this proceedure. Academic interest only from my perspective :)
Any thoughts ?
Regards
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Any thoughts ?
Don't do anything which isn't recommended by the manufacturer.
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L\'escargot.
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Considering the pressures in a HDI system, and that the diesel is the lubricant for the pump, lack of lubrication qualities isn't my immediate concern.
But, GOK what you will dislodge inside the engine and where that carp may jam, or what effect the diesel will have on the oil seals. Then consider how "thin" the diesel is compared to lubricating oil, and you can see why an engine with some bearing wear needs the revs up to put out the pressure warning light.
I wouldn't do it.
Why would you want to?
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Whoa .............
Academic interest only I said :)
Regards
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"Whoa .............Academic interest only I said" :)
LOL! ;-)
I use this product called 'Forte' in PETROL engine which says "cleans engines internally and provides anti-wear protection" I haven't used this in DIESEL engine yet, however I found them excellent than any others, but before that I used 'ACP Pro-Formula' Motor Flush.
A engine which have 'sludge' (depoists) all over (black death) and doing the flushing is not going to any help at all, strip down and clean!
Maybe 'Auto-RX' ? (a non- solvent cleaner) - not tried though and not too sure about using for Diesel engines ?
Using the flushing products is when there is Mineral Engine Oil already in the engine before going over putting in Fully Synthetic Engine Oil or when you brought a car with a half of history services or none at all and wanting to do self-service of engine oil change for the first time, then perhaps doing the flush is a good idea.
After the first flush and the next time changing the engine oil there is no needs of doing the flushing again if you are using the same brands/quality of oil.
Sometimes when using Mineral Engine Oil or a badly timing services keeper and there is some engine noise, ie from tappets, light chain rattle at the start up or until engine is fully warm or maybe some quiet noise at warm could be caused by build up of sludges bocking the Oilways & causing sticky inside the engine parts, so putting in the flush product can help to remove the harmful deposits, clean and quieten hydraulic valve lifters, but remember a worn engine parts cannot be cured, replacing them is necessary.
Using solvent in engine is like you going to the dental for a tooth filling as it's does hurt abit, but having sludges is more harmful in engine and is like you have got a bad toothache!
Look after your motor! ;-)
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Completely insane. The best way to keep an engine clean is to change the recommended oil frequently. This can generally be done for less than the cost of "snake oil" flushing agents. If you take over a sludged engine, change the oil twice as often as normal for the first few times.
Diesel fuel will lubricate fuel pumps, not engines.
659.
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Agree with 659, use fresh oil to clean out an engine and then drain as soon as it gets dirty for petrol engines or after a few hundred miles for a diesel engine, then repeat a couple of more times, also change the oil filter each time. To save you hassle there are plenty of places who will do the job for between £15 and £30 all in including recyling your used oil etc.
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"Completely insane."
Well that was my take on it and I advised against it.........
My suggestion was to use diesel *engine oil* with its high detergency for a few weeks....
I`m not going to post a link to it as I am a member of that forum too and don`t want to be struck off for telling tales:)
Any techs on here want to speculate on the possible outcomes for the engines that have had this done to them though?
Because now and then you do hear of someone doing this, one was a trucker I knew who got *free* derv and did a derv, running engine flush at every oil change.
It makes the hairs stand up on my arms just typing about it..... thing is.. where`s the actual evidence of damage by this procedure.
Or is it another one of those things that no one with any knowledge of engines would dream of doing...
but none of us can find actual proof of damage.....
Situations like this interest me, don`t know why :)
( I hasten to point out that my own engines get Mobil 1 at half the change interval so it doesnt apply to me:)
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I dont personally recommend flushing an engine unless it has a specific problem or it is about to be stripped down.
But if I was doing a flush i would use the proper flushing oil, why even attempt anything else?
But if people have done and experienced no problems then no known problem by me , but........ the damage may not show immediately.
ie if it wears the bearings/pumps etc then they may just wear out excessively prematurely ?
But as i said before, proper flushing oil isnt dear so why bother using anything else?
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It is 'completely insane' to drive the vehicle with the flushing product inside in the engine, no matter if what its says on the bottle/tin/can.
"If you take over a sludged engine, change the oil twice as often as normal for the first few times."
Actually you will make it worst, so heavily sludged engine is best to strip down and clean or strap it!
If you take off the Rocker Cover and take a peep, if it's not too bad, then doing the flushing engine oil CAN improves the life of the engine before anymore further builds up and an rapid wear on the top ends where 'Oilways' are blocked with depoists, don't forget the Oilways are very tight space, flushing oil is something like 0W/20 thin enough to help cleaning/removing from there where as an normal Engine Oil can't!
Another thing too, if you brought a car and you want to use the Fully Synthetic Engine Oil, it's a good idea to do the one off engine flush to remove dirts/depoists and if not Synthetic can make it worst, by build on top and removing the depoists to elsewhere - ie to oil filter, oil pump to anywhere that can get blocks up, remember where did sludges comes from - Mineral Engine Oils in a hot engines.
I have been using Engine Flushing Oils in my PETROL engine cars and have showed NO ill effects
I did it because I want the best out of the engines ie - better fuel running, pass the MOT's Emission tests (just had an M.O.T. last week and only one emissions test came out with fly colours with CO reading at 0.32 for a 13 years old vehicle with Catalytic Converter!), to possible gains back to the correct engine B.H.P. performance, and to use the Fully Synthetic Engine Oil, also if I had a DIESEL engine then yes I still use it!
I am only talking about doing it ONCE, maybe twice with one/two cheap oil filters not at every oil changes!
Remember at the end of the day it is your money and your car, you decide what is best until the time comes.
Look after your motor! ;-)
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I wouldn't flush, as many others have said regular oil changes is the only solution. Escorts & cavaliers & some mazdas were a nightmare using flushes some years ago as the product used to loosen the black death as it was known & block the oil srainers up & sieze the engines or debris disturbed used to jam oil pressure relief valves. Seen it so many times no flushes for me.
I have noticed being a mobil 1 convert through extensive testing engines certainly stay a lot cleaner internally. As the saying once went oil is the heart of the engine.
If you want to know how extensive i have seen the oil tested apart from a research centre my company was involved in maintanance of a fleet of 250 identical cars covering 500000miles. The few than ran expensive oil lasted the duration with ease
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"I wouldn't flush, as many others have said regular oil changes is the only solution."
Yes, having a regular engine oil changes is the only solution if you brought the vehicle from brand new, or very, very low mileage and are using Semi/Fully Synthetic, but what if you brought a second hand car ?
Do you trust the service history ?
Even one little blip of missed oil change ?
How would you know if there is no sludges build up inside and it's been ran on Mineral Engine Oils all its working life ?
It's will be some inside until you flushed it out, it's either in a small or large lump or lumps and sometimes not always you will find them inside the Oil Filter when saw in two halfs.
Have you noticed mostly every new second hand vehicles are running Minerals from new not Fully Synthetic, it's too costly for the Dealer to buy the drums, unlet it's a very top range motors - ie super cars and the likes of them.
Don't tell me about the new engines need to 'break in' before using Semi/Fully Synthetic Oils - that is just myths !
Newer cars are now using Semi-Syntheic and some top Germans are using Fully Synthetic without using Mineral Oils first!
Older cars CAN run on Semi/Fully Synthetic, my 3 motors are 13, 14, 15 years old and was used Mineral before I brought them and all are running Fully Synthetic now after the first flush, doing it once or twice WITHOUT any leaks or any other known problems, still using the same brand makers of Fully Synthetic changing twice a year, but don't needs to do the flush again. Just the one off!
"Escorts & cavaliers & some mazdas were a nightmare using flushes some years ago as the product used to loosen the black death as it was known & block the oil srainers up & sieze the engines or debris disturbed used to jam oil pressure relief valves."
Of course! When a engine caked with black sludges depoists all over, it's no good trying doing the flush products to remove it !! Strip down and clean or strap it!
"I have noticed being a mobil 1 convert through extensive testing engines certainly stay a lot cleaner internally. As the saying once went oil is the heart of the engine."
Yes it's because they put-in cleaning additives and is same with some other brands which is very, very similer to the flushing products, but not as harsh or is using non-solvents, it's there to keep the insides clean, you wouldn't get that from using Mineral engine oils anyway.
A few garages near me use 'Forte' flushing products - it's only oil based and 'ACP' are solvent based cleaner.
Oilrag - (For Diesel) have a look in there - forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1971567
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Nice sludge pics (shudder) I`m sticking with the Mobil 1........
I tend to think once sludge has formed its stripdown time.
I have seen some cars in the early 60`s with what looked and felt like coal shale in the rocker covers.
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