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Computer Related Questions - Volume 125 - Dynamic Dave

***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 126 *****


In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.

Usual rules apply,

No motoring related discussion,
No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )

Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.

There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.

This is Volume 125. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.

A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=20892


PLEASE NOTE:

When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.

Taking my laptop apart. - mal
Hi following on from my thread on Vista using most of my memory, I have ordered the upgrades from Crucial.
To protect the screw heads I will need to know the exact size of screwdriver to remove the cover from the back. I want to buy one decent driver to remove them as they all look the same size. Now short of taking the laptop to my local tool shop does anyone know the size of the screws on my Toshiba Satellite P100 160.
A long shot I know, maybe a computer service technician out there can tell me.

Mal.
Taking my laptop apart. - Altea Ego
It should have a flap - probably held by one universal screw (designed ot be opened by the user)

YOU DO NOT UNDO ALL THE SCREWS ON THE BACK - EVER without a worskshop manual and exploded diagram telling you screws to undo.
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
Taking my laptop apart. - mal
The title is misleading sorry, I only intend to remove the flap which holds the Ram memory. They have instructions on how to do it on their site, but as I said in the previous thread my son is the one that is going to install it for me. I just do not want to mark the screws with an ill fitting screwdriver and expose the bright metal under the black finish, I need to buy a good quality one that is the correct fit and is not cheap and soft.

Mal.
Taking my laptop apart. - Stuartli
If you have a cordless screwdriver or know someone who has, they usually come with a range of bits. Find the bit that fits exactly and you won't have to buy a specific Philips type screwdriver.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
Taking my laptop apart. - L'escargot
If you have a cordless screwdriver or know someone who has,
they usually come with a range of bits. Find the bit
that fits exactly and you won't have to buy a specific
Philips type screwdriver.


If you want to avoid damaging the screw head it's important to get the right bit. Most likely the screws will be Posidriv, not Phillips. Posidriv can usually be identified by radial marks on the head between the slots. The slots of Posidriv have parallel sides whilst those of Phillips are tapered. In the absence of any identification marking (PZ1 etc) on a Posidriv bit you should be able to see 8 flutes (compared to 4 on Phillips) which are more clearly defined in the higher quality machined items.
--
L\'escargot.
Taking my laptop apart. - Stuartli
>>Most likely the screws will be Posidriv, not Phillips. Posidriv >>

I couldn't remember the other name (Posidriv), hence the expression "Philips type"...:-)
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Taking my laptop apart. - adverse camber
Any market will have a stall selling a small set of jewellers screwdrivers for £1.
Taking my laptop apart. - mfarrow
My Toshiba Satellite Pro U200 uses Philips screws. Using a pozidrive screwdriver is likely to damage the head on Philips', so be careful.

--------------
Mike Farrow
Taking my laptop apart. - Dynamic Dave
Using a pozidrive screwdriver is likely to damage the head on Philips', so be careful.


If you look at the screwhead it *should* be obvious whether it is a pozidrive or philips.

A pozidrive screw (and screwdriver) have extra groves at the 4 quadrants, whereas Phillips doesn't.

Pozidrive:- tinyurl.com/2mjwho
Phillips:- www.rensup.com/t/Screws_Dtl54018.jpg
Taking my laptop apart. - mal
Philips it is then and my local tool shop has offered to let me take a couple of good quality ones home to try so long as I buy the one that fits.
It all seems a lot of fuss over a few screws but considering what the laptop cost a few more pounds on a good quality tool will be money well spent rather than buy a cheap rubbish tool that will make it look like some ham fisted DIY'er has been messing with the components.

Thanks, Mal
USB 2.0 available power (from CRR v124) - SjB {P}
Dalglish
Thanks very much, but I have decided to proceed as in the last paragraph below.

cheddar
None of the devices powered from the back ports are accessible (and to use the example, my MP800R printer is 802.11G wireless so there is no USB cable to swap). The PC sits in an enclosure in a built-in fitted office with all cables disappearing behind vanity panels or in to purpose made cupboards; bar the wireless keyboard and mouse and wall mounted monitor, every single piece of equipment, including (soft key operated) KVM switch, is physically out of sight exactly as I intended.

Stuartli
Yes, yes, and so can I (up to 7), thanks.

TVM
The 2.5" LaCie HDD drive works on every other USB 2.0 port on every other PC or laptop I have tried it with. Now two years old, it has never missed a beat or fried anything else and I don't think it's about to. The same goes for the dozens in service with colleagues. The instuctions specifically said (I no longer have them) it is designed to work from USB 2.0 without supplementary power supply, or USB 1.1 with supplementary power supply and this was a factor in company purchase decision; the idea was a small form factor backup for mobile workforce; slip it in a jacket pocket and if the laptop is stolen you can still work with borrowed machine and deliver the reason for your travel. I strongly suspect that cheddar is correct in that the front and top panel USB ports are effectively an unpowered hub and unable to deliver the required current draw even if below 500mA. In fact the Akasa card reader "appears" as a USB hub and the front panel USB port is part of the same slot-in assembly.

Where from here?
It is true that with some things (this is one such example) I am a purist that starts with the ideal and gives ground only if I really have to. What I wanted to do with my post was confirm my interpretation of USB 2.0 spec in that it doesn't dictate that every single port should be able to operate consecutively at a maximum of 500mA. By inference from what has been said, I am correct in that it doesn't so there is unfortunately little point in me trying to argue that an point; Instead I'll do as I said at the outset and install a powered hub in to one of the rear ports (with cable for the LaCie HDD left draped on the top of the PC casing), even though it grates. ;-)

Thanks all for the comments.
USB 2.0 available power (from CRR v124) - SjB {P}
Update; it occurred to me that I have a USB cable I'd forgotten about which at about 0.5m long is much shorter than the 1.0m, 1.5m, and 2.0m cables that I have variously tried to use with the LaCie HDD. Because it is so short, it normally lives in the Volvo where I use it to charge my Blackberry Pearl battery.

"Hmm. I wonder.", thought I, with voltage drop in my mind.

Sure enough, with this short cable in use the external HDD spins straight up to speed from any of the three offending USB ports, without the slightest stutter. Switch to any of the other cables, and it click-whirrs again without spinning up to speed so the problem indeed looks like having been truly borderline voltage.

Will now buy a second short cable for use in the Volvo and keep the current one for use with the external HDD.
USB 2.0 available power (from CRR v124) - Altea Ego
The 2.5" LaCie HDD drive works on every other USB 2.0 port ..............


I dont care if it works on the moon from pixie dust - You have been warned. I shall say no more.
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
USB 2.0 available power (from CRR v124) - Altea Ego
I shall say no more ... Well I lied

> without spinning up to speed so the problem indeed looks like having been truly borderline voltage.

Now you always struck me as a bright fellow. YOu are seriously going to accept that device that requires shorter cables because of power drops is

a: a solution
b: reliable?

Get a damn powered hub you blond desert.......


------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
USB 2.0 available power (from CRR v124) - SjB {P}
>>You are seriously going to accept that device that requires shorter cables because of power drops is
>>a: a solution
>>b: reliable?

With my work background I take little in life at face value and have contacted LaCie technical help. It turns out the shorter cable is infact the cable that came with the HDD (looking carefully I spot the LaCie logo on the plugs) and however contrived it may sound is intented for use when this device is used without external PSU. It certainly isn't constructed like an off the shelf USB cable, being much more rigid and extremely narrow in OD, so there is more than a passing chance that internal materials are different, with different operating characteristics.

To my question "Should I invest in an external power supply - which will be a nuisance given the LaCie is only used for occasional file backup - or can I sleep easy knowing that because the HDD promptly spins up when the shorter cable is used, all is well and abnormal damage is unlikely to be occuring to PC or LaCie?" I received a black and white answer; absolutely the latter.

So, you hold your beliefs Mr TVM and I'll hold mine; I have applied the assessment of reasonable risk aginst the overrriding convenience factor I desire, and decided I'll take my chances. Rest assured that if any failure occurs you will be the first to know, but I very much doubt that it will happen. In any case, when prices have fallen to what I'm prepared to pay, as part of my backup strategy I will have a brace of WiFi enabled 320 Gb HDDs sitting elsewhere in the house where they are less likely to be stolen in a burglary than in my office (Pre-empting comment; that access time will be higher than with USB 2.0 is irrelevant for the intended purpose and approach to incremental backup). At this point the LaCie will solely be used with T42 for mobile backup on my frequent travels, as originally intended.
USB 2.0 available power (from CRR v124) - Altea Ego
< sucks air through teeth noisliy >
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
USB 2.0 available power (from CRR v124) - SpamCan61 {P}
< sucks air through teeth noisliy >
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >


Why isn't there a smiley for that expression?
USB 2.0 available power (from CRR v124) - rtj70
I have a USB2 enclosure for a 2.5" hard drive (put drive in myself). This failed to work on one work laptop (now replaces) and one home PC (now replaces). It never got enough power. But the drive did come with an adapter/cable that you put in the PS/2 keyboard port and that meant it got enough power.

Reason for posting for others (SjB seems sorted) is the drive in the other machines would spin up to speed.... and die. And net result was corruption of the NTFS file system which could not be fixed in the USB enclosure on a machine with enough power. I had to take out the drive.... take out the 2.5" drive of the laptop... and boot an OS off CD (Linux or Windows BartPE) and then repair it. Not ideal but it worked.

Moral is, if there's not enough power for the USB HD you could get corruption. Main PC has external 3.5" drives so they need their own power ;-)
Removing PC Checkup - drbe
I recently installed SpeedItUpFree and PC Checkup on my PC.

PC Checkup frequently tells me that I have n faults on my PC, to remove these faults 'click here'. When I click on it I am taken to a site inviting me to buy PC Checkup.

I don't want to buy it, but how do I remove it?

I can't find it in control panel - add or remove programs. A search will produce 4 files bearing the name PC Checkup, but I can't remove it. A message comes up 'access denied'

Help please!
Removing PC Checkup - Stuartli
See:

www.auditmypc.com/process/realtime.asp


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Removing PC Checkup - Dalglish
See: www.auditmypc.com/process/realtime.asp


methinks sturatli is barking up the wrong google tree. try searching for:
SpeedItUpFree and PC Checkup

b.t.w. - i avoid software where the homepage is so scant in detail, and that does not have an "uninstall" feature.

drbe - try deleting after
1.starting in safe mode
2. and killing any running instances of that software (via windows task manager - alt+ctrl+del),
3. and/or using a tool such as "jv16 power tools" software remover
4. and jv16 registry tools to reomve all references to that software.

Removing PC Checkup - bell boy
would a system restore not get rid of it?
Removing PC Checkup - Dalglish
.. would a system restore not get rid of it?


always worth a try, of course.
in drbe's case it depends on what is meant by "..recently installed .." and whether a restore point exists prior to that "recently" date.

Finding & Deleting cookies - Armitage Shanks {p}
I am suddenly having probs with another discussion site. When I log in the site recognises my user name and password and logs me in but, as soon as I start navigating round the site, I am logged out. I e mailed the webmaster and he said delete all cookies with the site name in them, close down the browser and start again. I have done this to no effect but I feel that I have not located my main cookies file. In 'Search' I have askedfto find a file called 'Cookies' but all I find is tiny files, not something big with all my cookies in it. Any help please? I am running XP with SP2 and IE7. Thanks in advance.
Finding & Deleting cookies - Dynamic Dave
In IE7, goto Tools - Internet Options. Within the General Tab where it says "browser history" click on 'delete' and another list should appear. From this menu list you should be able to delete your cookies, and anything else browser related.
Finding & Deleting cookies - JH
A
if you're using Explorer; Tools, internet options, delete cookies. But that will delete the ones you want as well as those you don't. I'd recommend ccleaner, free at ccleaner.com. You can nominate the cookies you want to keep and delete all others. It cleans up a load of other junk too - if you allow it.
JH
Finding & Deleting cookies - bell boy
just get opera and you can customise your cookies
what idiot invented ie7 where the buttons are all over ..............eh..............dammed stupid
Finding & Deleting cookies - bintang
"You can nominate the cookies you want "

Can you kindly tell me how to do this, please? I can't make it out from the window I get.
Finding & Deleting cookies - Armitage Shanks {p}
Thanks DD. I got an e mail from the problem site's webmaster who said delete all cookies containing their site name, close down browser and start again. I did that, to no effect. I could not even find a 'Cookie' file on my computer, from which to select an individual one so I deleted the lot and then started again and the site still 'recognises' me when I go to it so I clearly have some cookie hidden somewhere. Thanks for the help, I have pointed in the right direction!
Finding & Deleting cookies - Stuartli
You can find your cookies from (User Name)>Documents and Settings>Cookies
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
Finding & Deleting cookies - Armitage Shanks {p}
Thanks Stuart. I am at work at the moment. I'll try that at home and report back!
Finding & Deleting cookies - Armitage Shanks {p}
Stuart - sort of following that link takes me to a folder/file called Cookies which only contains a 16kb file called index.dat and opening it gives me a line of gobbldegook in Notepad format. Any further ideas please?
Finding & Deleting cookies - Dalglish
that link takes me to a folder/file called Cookies which only contains a 16kb file called index.dat and opening it
gives me a line of gobbldegook in Notepad format. Any further ideas please?


your cookie may be in the "all-users" branch, or the "administrator" branch, or the "default" if it is not in your-user-name brach.

tha index.dat file contains a history of all your surfing activities on the computer since the time it was first created, and it cannot be deleted by simply using the "delete" key.

try to find and clear all cookies using free software such as spybot-s&d, adaware-se, or crapcleaner. (latter available from www.ccleaner.com also has the option of deleing the index.dat file for you).

p.s. the index dat file will remove all your past surfing history so first read up on the net what it means and then delete it if you wish.

Finding & Deleting cookies - Stuartli
>>that link takes me to a folder/file called Cookies which only contains a 16kb file called index.dat >>

In my case it's all the cookies that are "Remember(ed)" that are listed - cookies are otherwise deleted at the end of each Firefox or IE sessions.
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Finding & Deleting cookies - Stuartli
>>>>that link takes me to a folder/file called Cookies>>

To edit cookies your browser must be closed otherwise they will almost certainly be recreated if you delete any.
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Finding & Deleting cookies - Stuartli
Some info on cookies:

www.milincorporated.com/a_cookies.html
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Finding & Deleting cookies - Armitage Shanks {p}
stuart and others, thank you for the help. I have taken the lazy way out as I can't quite get my head round the good information I am being given! I have circumvented the problem by using Mozilla. The problem with one particular site is solved, the pages load way faster and there is a spell checker for posts to the Backroom. Deep joy!
Web filter - Nsar
Not a question, but in response to a couple of very near misses with our kids in the last couple of days we have installed a freeware programme called Naomi.
It seems to be the business.
No connection with the product, but thought it might be worth sharing this info.
Web filter - Armitage Shanks {p}
Near Misses in connection with what? Google can't find me a prog called Naomi either, is it some sort of method of keeping children off dodgy websites?
Web filter - Citroënian {P}
Think it may be this:

www.radiance.m6.net/
-- He\'s a cheeky wind-up scamster and he\'s on the radio....
Web filter - Nsar
Near misses in the sense of 8 and 11 year olds logging on for homework and my wife being there to see that what google threw up on perfectly innocent search terms could have been "problematic" had they clicked on some of the links. Even with the laptop in the same room as us, you only have to look away for a second to click through to something that you wouldn't want them to see.

Google Naomi+web+filter and it will take you there.
Hard drive failure question please? - Petel
Hello to all again.
Backroomers will recall my post at the start of Volume 124, as to the Windows loading problem, caused by the failure of my primary use hard drive. My thanks again to those who responded. I have had a look in the forum search but have not found this question addressed specifically.

Drive in question is the internal type, a Western Digital " Caviar " WD800BB, which had the acrid smell of component failure when removed from the tower unit.

I took a Google and found a number of posts from the USA, claiming that these drives seem to last for only two years before failing. The date on the label on the front of the drive states 19th March 2005, it failed on 24th March 2007.

Secondly, now that my computer is running normally, if I try to use the WD drive, the system demands the XP disk and then states that it cannot find a hard drive in the system. On Ebay at this time is a similar WD drive ( not identical ) in which the seller states that:- " the drive appears to run but is not recognised by XP system "

Is there anyone who has experience of these drives, who could confirm if this is a common problem and advise if the cause is a single electronic component on the PCB or perhaps a failure of the drives motor unit?
Many thanks.
Hard drive failure question please? - cheddar
You could try the diagnostics on here:

support.wdc.com/
Hard drive failure question please? - Altea Ego
why do you need to know? Hard drives these days have reached the disposable price bracket. Ie they are so cheap people throw them away when dead, so manufacturers no longer make them reliable because they are cheap and people throw them away. So throw it away without a second thought.. or

Is your real question - there is data on there I wish to get off? This is a completely different scenario with different answers.


------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
Hard drive failure question please? - Stuartli
>>if this is a common problem >>

I'm on my second WD Caviar SE in the last five or six years (current one bought four years ago to increase available capacity) and neither have missed a beat, despite mine being in use for around 15 hours a day; the original is still in use in a friend's system.

Both are the JB versions (i.e. OEM with an original three year warranty).

The following links may be of interest:

www.silentpcreview.com/article246-page1.html

tinyurl.com/22ny6a




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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
Hard drive failure question please? - Petel
Thanks for the replies.

I do not "need " to know, it is a case of " I want to know " what this problem is. There is no data on the drive that I " need " to recover but there are some nice pictures of vintage cars that I am disappointed to have lost, as the drive failed before I was able to hard copy them.

The JB and SE versions of this drive are a step up from the BB ( which only had a one year warranty ) and do not suffer from this problem, which I am now told by a chap in Austrailia, is a known problem with the failure of a component on the PCB ( subject to my being able to get hold of another, identical, drive with which to do a comparison test )

Thanks to all for the replies and the links provided.
Rgds.
Hard drive failure question please? - Stuartli
These freeware links may help (there are shareware alternatives that may have trial versions):

www.majorgeeks.com/HDD_Scan_and_Restoration_Progra...l

www.majorgeeks.com/Ultimate_Data_Recovery_d5336.ht...l

www.majorgeeks.com/Avira_UnErase_d5284.html


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Hard drive failure question please? - mfarrow
If it is just the PCB that has failed maybe it's worth trying to swap it with one from a known working drive? The data is on the platters after all and the PCB should be detachable without having to remove the cover.

--------------
Mike Farrow
Hard drive failure question please? - Petel
Thanks for your reply Mr Farrow. That is exactly what I am attempting to do at this time. Will post again if I find a suitable PCB.
Rgds.
No sound from UBS speakers - Oz
Sorry if this has been posted before.
I use my notebook PC for music in 2 ways:
(1) USB transmitter stick with receiver plugged into my stereo amplifier audio input (from Bardaudio/Sonneteer). Has worked fine.
(2) Modest pair of USB-powered speakers (Logitech) for use when away from home. Also has worked fine.
Suddenly however the only sound I have is from the PC internal speakers. The Logitech blue pilot light lights up but the speakers produce no sound. The Bardaudio transmitter transmitter stick has its usual blue light but not flashing (i.e. not transmitting).
So far I haven't been able to find/correct the fault via Windows XP's Control Panel>Sounds and Audio Devices. Any ideas anyone?
Oz (as was)
No sound from UBS speakers - Oz
Any views on the above? I would add that the only sign of life from the speakers is a slight 'pop' when booting. Some life there somewhere.
Oz (as was)
No sound from UBS speakers - Stuartli
Have you also checked Sounds and Audio Devices in Device Manager as to whether there are any exclamation marks against your (presumably) onboard sound?

In the vent that this is OK, I presume you have checked it is listed as the Default Device in Sounds and Audio Devices in Control Panel and that none of the Volume Control inputs/outputs have been inadvertently Muted?
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Printing lined paper. - Pugugly {P}
Word XP/2003.

I have a need to print out an A4 piece of paper with lines (for later handwriting), the reason I want to do this is to have a nice tidy WP prepared headings so "birod" notes can be added (in a straight line) afterwards - os it possible ?
Printing lined paper. - Nsar
A rather clunky way to do it would be to create a table and then edit out the verticals and set it to the finest line width and print at 15 or 20% tint.
Printing lined paper. - Stuartli
See:

writing-paper.qarchive.org/

www.programurl.com/software-writepaper-printery-do...l
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Printing lined paper. - rtj70
If you're after just lined paper then I recently found this website useful for free graph paper:

incompetech.com/beta/plainGraphPaper/

All sorts of "free paper". You can customise line spacing, colour, margins, etc. You then get the PDF and print it out. Line paper, graph paper, music annotation paper... there's lots.

But you seem to be after headings on the standard layout. A suggestion would be if you got the PDF from the site above and then print it to a Microsoft Word Document Image file, you can then add your headings to the MS image file and print out the amended version. I've even used the same technique to fill in password protected PDF document electronically before now.
Printing lined paper. - Pugugly {P}
Thanks for the suggestions, I particularly like rtj's. I'll go with that as it doesn't involve downloading programs - not tested the other suggestion at work, but I reckon it will be difficult.
Printing lined paper. - rtj70
Glad I might have been of some help.

I was trying to buy graph paper for a few days and every shop I tried did not do it (did not try a WH Smith's only local shops). Then thought... I wonder if you can download graph paper and print yourself and you could ;-) I particularly like how that website lets you change colour, spacing, margins, line thickness etc.
Printing lined paper. - L'escargot
I was trying to buy graph paper for a few days
and every shop I tried did not do it .......


I had the same problem, and solved it by buying online .............. tinyurl.com/2hq3vt
--
L\'escargot.
Printing lined paper. - rtj70
I only needed a few sheets... drafting out the new patio layout without resorting to Visio. The free site I found meant I could get the squares in the right size/number across the page... bargain for a few sheets but not the cheapest way for lots of graph paper. Unless you print it out at work ;-)
Printing lined paper. - Mapmaker
>drafting patio layout

I find Excel excels at this. Change the rows and columns until they are both the same size - giving you squares. Then use the 'fill with colour' and 'surround with border' options to fill and surround four cells. Then double click on the format copier button, and fill in the different sized paving flags as appropriate. You can even move them around in blocks of 2, 4, 6 or whatever.

Excel is also great for first cut architectural drafting in a similar fashion, creating floorplans etc.
Printing lined paper. - rtj70
I said patio... but meant decking :-) But like the idea and it would have worked for the decking too.
Printing a selection of an e-mail - Happy Blue!
I want to print out only part of an e-mail, without copying and pasting into Word - so that I can still have all the header details. I'm sure I used to be able to do this with OE5 but I moved to OE6 at home and Outlook 2003 at the office and I can't seem to be able to do this any more.

Can anyone tell me how to print out part of an e-mail? - It's more important that I can do it at the office.

Thanks
Printing a selection of an e-mail - local yokel
Is File -> Print, Page Range, select page number any use? I'm guessing if you want the header that you want page one, at least?
Printing a selection of an e-mail - Happy Blue!
Nope - tried that one. The only option is to print the full e-mail. Of course that pay include seven or eight bounces between correspondents, copies of which you may already have.
Printing a selection of an e-mail - Dynamic Dave
How about forwarding it to yourself after first snipping out the bits you don't want to print out?
Printing a selection of an e-mail - cheddar
OK,

Edit>Edit Message, then delete all you dont want, click Print then when you close the message DONT save changes so you retain the message it its original form.
WiFi service theft - SjB {P}
Debated here before, and in legal principle no different to me on moving house using an unknown (and unknowing) neighbour's WiFi connection to check mail a few times because my own broadband connection wasn't yet live; news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/hereford/worcs/6565079...m

Although a little more drawing of attention in their method of execution, this is the first set of prosecutions I've heard of.

WiFi service theft - Dalglish
.... this is the first set of prosecutions I've heard of.


see one previous case mentioned here
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=35...6
and here
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/technology/4721723.stm
Network printers - BazzaBear {P}
If a printer has a connection on it for an ethernet cable, does this suggest you should be able to connect it straight to a wireless router and have the computers on that network use it? Or will it still require a printer server?
Network printers - adverse camber
It would indeed suggest that.

whats the printer ? you might need specific driver software on the PC's depending on how you configure and set up.
Network printers - BazzaBear {P}
I know it's an HP, but nothing further than that. It's actually a friend who ash asked me for advice - not wanting to ruin the illusion of being knowledgable I seem to portray, I thought I'd ask on here!

I was wondering about the drivers - but I guess it'll use exactly the same drivers as a network printer as it would connected directly to the printer? He says he has the manual somewhere anyway, so that'll give him the full info. I told him to consult it because - if he's lucky - there might be instructions for setting the printer up to wake on LAN, so he can just leave it on all the time.
Network printers - rtj70
You'd install the same printer driver as if you were connecting to it locally via USB/Parallel port. But with a few differences:

- First plug in the printer to the LAN and if it's setup to use DHCP for an IP address it will pick one up. If you want to assign a static IP address then that can be fiddly on HP printers I've used - you need to use the button on the printer.

- To determine the IP address you're probably going to have to get the printer to print a diagnostic page. You'll need to know the IP address to connect to it.
(assuming XP) you need to install the printer as a "local printer" and

- Go to add printer on XP and select local printer (you're not going to have the printer connected to a server and this step would be needed on the server). Then on the Select Printer port screen you should select Create a New Port and Select the type to be "Standard TCP/IP Port". This calls up another dialogue box to configure the TCP/IP port.

That's it and it's fairly straight forward. You might find it comes with a CD to configure the printer (by "finding" it on the LAN) etc.

As for Wake On LAN a network printer will remain on but should be set to go into power saver mode after not being used for a while.
Network printers - Baskerville
I was wondering about the drivers - but I guess it'll
use exactly the same drivers as a network printer as it
would connected directly to the printer? He says he has the
manual somewhere anyway so that'll give him the full info. I
told him to consult it because - if he's lucky -
there might be instructions for setting the printer up to wake
on LAN so he can just leave it on all the
time.


Most network printers these days announce themselves on the network using the Apple "zero configuration" Bonjour networking protocol. Luckily Bonjour (aka Zeroconf) runs on Windows and Linux too. I see no reason why it should be harder on Windows than the piece of cake it is on the Mac and on Linux. So once you have set up the printer to broadcast itself (probably the default):

Install Bonjour for Windows. Install drivers for printer. Run the Bonjour Wizard. HP printer will appear in the list of available printers. Select it. Start printing.

Bonjour download page:

www.apple.com/support/downloads/bonjourforwindows....l
"Advanced IF" help for Excel requested - SjB {P}
How can I create a new column in an Excel worksheet that allows me to display a true/false answer based on a case insensitive condition that also includes a wildcard, please?

Let's take an example (which is not what I want to do, but which keeps it simple) of wanting to have a column that contains the word YES wherever the letter "L" appears anywhere in another particular column, regardless of being in upper or lower case, and NO where not. Let's now imagine that this other particular column contains five records, and these records have the following values:

Upper Rissington
Fulbeck
Shenington
Lark Hall
Dunkeswell


The word YES should display for Fulbeck, Lark Hall, and Dunkeswell.

In Excel I am very familiar with the IF(logical_test,true_answer,false_answer) approach, but as far as I can tell although it is not case sensitive it doesn't work with wildcards in the logical test.

For those familiar with using the SQL language against an Oracle database; if this were my weapon, off the top of my head (there will be other ways), I would write decode(instr(upper(COLUMN_NAME),'L'),0,'NO','YES'). In other words; convert the column to upper case, and search for letter Ls. If there is an L, return the position of the first incidence (a number). If this number is 0 it means we have no L, so return NO, else return YES. Thus, Fulbeck will return 3, so we get a YES. Shenington will return 0, so we get a NO.

Equivalent ideas that will work in Excel, please?

I have a massive spreadsheet to apply this logic too and to do it visually will be time consuming and error prone.

Ta muchly!

"Advanced IF" help for Excel requested - adverse camber
stick it through sql*loader ;)

Is there a subscript command in excel ? look for the position of the letter in the string ?
"Advanced IF" help for Excel requested - adverse camber
Possibly more helpfully, is this any good ?

I dont have excel or access to it on my unix boxen but this sort of thing should work assuming excel functions as I remember it

if( iserr(find(upper( cell ); "L"));FALSE;TRUE )
"Advanced IF" help for Excel requested - SjB {P}
Thanks; will give it a go later when the babies are bathed and asleep.
BTW - anyone spot the motoring (ish) connection in my examples?
Now come on - no Googling! ;-)
"Advanced IF" help for Excel requested - SjB {P}
Babies fast asleep, ten minutes to try out the suggestion, and a virtual pint this Friday evening to adverse camber!
Not quite the right syntax, but close enough and with enough Excel expressions to search Help with to get the answer.

From the suggestion of =if(iserr(find(upper(cell_reference);"L"));FALSE;TRUE)
I ended up with =if(iserr(find("L",upper(cell_reference))),"No","Yes")

The key things were use of commas instead of semicolons (a doddle to twig) and to switch "tested value" (ie L) and cell_reference round the other way. Trust Microsoft to invert what to you and I would be the logical syntax sequence! The Yes and No is used as that's what I need, but a trivial point here.

Many thanks for your help! :-)
All in one suggestions - Pugugly {P}
Been in the "lucky" position of having a £50.00 voucher for a well known retail park computer shop (after SWMBO fell out with them over a service issue) what "All in One" Printer do you recommend for light domestic use ?
All in one suggestions - rtj70
Because I have a Canon Pixma printer and a Canon Scanner I'm probably biased and say get a Canon. Looking at a well known retail park computer shop's website I notice the Pixma MP510 is £109.99 online (save £10) and the better Pixma MP600 is £115.79 online (save about £45). And the best bit is if you do a collect @ store shop you pay the web price in store (you get given a reference number).

I think the difference between the two will include speed, resolution for printing and the MP600 can print on CD/DVDs.

Why I like my Canon printer:

- Cheaper cartridges (even genuine ones) and clear plastic ink cartridges you can see the ink level
- Double sided (duplex) printing
- Two paper trays
- Print onto CD/DVDs printable media
- Attach a camera/phone and print pictures direct
- Fast

... And good quality prints too.

If I was buying now (the all-in ones less than my printer was) I'd sell the scanner and go down this route.
All in one suggestions - BazzaBear {P}
I've not had an all-in-one printer, but I have had a few budget printers, and from my experience would go with Canon every time.
Both HP and Lexmark, with my infrequent use, had problems with clogged inkjets and after a few months the paper feeds stopped working properly. I've had no such issue with my Canon.
All in one suggestions - buzbee
|Both HP and Lexmark, with my infrequent use, had problems . . .|

Cannon used to make the engine for HP printers. Is that still true?

I am well out of experience with colour printers -- still using an HP laser for B/W plus an Epson 740 for colour (and it still works OK but will be replaced soon!) so am watching with interest and need to see accurate data.
All in one suggestions - rtj70
"Cannon used to make the engine for HP printers. Is that still true?"

For lasers probably not inkjets. The print head for Canon printer's is separate from the ink cartridge. For (most) HP inkjet printers the ink cartridge includes the print head. Upshot is increased price but....

... if you print infrequently the HP idea means a long time without prints at worst (due to blockage) is a new cartridge and not a new separate print head (used for all colours and meant to last longer). But the cartridges are a lot more for HP and that is how they still make most of their profit apparently.

Last time I swapped printers (HP to Canon) I used to think the print head thing was a good idea as I printed infrequently due to cost. Then a new large colour cartridge for the HP was as much as a new printer* with cartridges... so I took that opportunity to swap to a more economical printer. And since it costs so much less to print I now print a lot more, especially DVDs ;-)


* HP basically give low end printers away with low capacity ink cartridges. They will make back the money on new ink.

P.S. Canon let you print out pictures on their printers over the web to see how they turn out for free. You are trusting they use the right printer mind.
All in one suggestions - Altea Ego
Canon Pixma MPxxxx where xxx is the current model.

Most reliable printer we have had. It worked it sox off for nicolles degree thesis's ie 4 weeks no use then a 5k words lump, 8 weeks no work then a 10k word lump - etc etc.

i.e it works when you want it to and dont get the 'ump.

------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
All in one suggestions - Stuartli
I bought a Canon BJC 600e in 1996 (£394 at Makro including VAT), which was the top model and could do everything today's photo printers could achieve; refilling the original four cartridges with compatible inks was a doddle and kept running costs low.

It was used solidly for 10 years without a blip and was only replaced because a minor problem would have cost nearly £70 to repair.

With the price of printers today, it was more simple to add another £20 and buy a brand new equivalent.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
All in one suggestions - Victorbox
My Canon BJC-250 bought in 1997 is still soldering on but I see most places don't stock the OEM ink cartridges now, so I guess Canon is trying to kill it off or convert me to refilling the old cartridges!
All in one suggestions - Stuartli
There are perhaps not enough BJC 250 owners around now to warrant production, but the printer certainly doesn't owe you anything...:-)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
All in one suggestions - Pugugly {P}
Thanks all, a Canon it shall be then.
All in one suggestions - rtj70
Watch out about the MP180. I think it might have a combined colour cartridge according the website of that retailer I mentioned. Not 100% but you'd be surprised how fast some colours get used.
laptop computers - menu du jour
Anyone have any views on a decent laptop. I am thinking of a macbook rather than a pc. Any opinions welcome.
Thanks
culmhead
laptop computers - David Horn
I expect this'll be moved {Correct - DD}, but I adore my HP dv2000 laptop - it looks fantastic, has a good screen, great performance, comes with Vista and is cheap as chips.
laptop computers - Hamsafar
I have a white MacBook thanks to work, I love it, it's exactly what I wanted, as I wanted a small and neat laptop for running Car Diagnostic Software.
It runs Mac OSX of course and can easily boot XP or Vista too.
We have 5 die-hard Windows IT staff at work who opted to replace Toshiba and Dell Laptops with Macbook Pros with the intention of just using them for Windows, but they liked the hardware all now nearly always boot into Mac OS as they prefer it and do their Windows admin stuff under Parallels virtualisation or via Remote Desktop to the servers.
laptop computers - Nsar
Can you say what you want out of your laptop and what your budget is.
We use both PCs and Macs in my company and I would never ever choose a Mac over a PC. I find them slow and unintuitive and despite what Mac users will tell you there is a real issue with Mac originated Office documents not being compatible with PCs.



laptop computers - Baskerville
despite what Mac users will tell
you there is a real issue with Mac originated Office documents
not being compatible with PCs.


Your compatibility issue is to do with different versions of MS Office, not Mac vs. PC. The same sorts of things happen between PC-based versions of Office--I suspect it's Microsoft's attempt to make companies upgrade all their copies of Office at once. Other office software (Abiword, OpenOffice, etc.) has no problem at all creating files that are identical cross--platform. So it must be the office suite, not the difference in the platform that is the cause.

In this case I'd go with Mac precisely because of compatibility and the wider range of software available (all your Windows favourites plus the wealth of great Mac stuff) and built in. Most people who use it "in anger" find Mac OSX to be great and the hardware is top notch too.
laptop computers - Altea Ego
> wealth of great Mac stuff

ROFL

Why did the windows emulator for mac come out then?

MAcbooks over overpriced, style over substance.
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
laptop computers - David Horn
> wealth of great Mac stuff
ROFL
Why did the windows emulator for mac come out then?
MAcbooks over overpriced style over substance.
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >


Well said. Take 10 house points.
laptop computers - Scott H
The price performance ratio of Apple computers is much better than it once was now they've switched to Intel processors. Reliability of the 2nd generation Macbooks seems good as well, if this survey is anything to go by: www.macintouch.com/reliability/macbooks2.html

It's a pity that the next version of OS X has been delayed until October, really. Apple could've capitalised on the problems Microsoft has had with Vista, and maybe encouraged a few more "switchers", had they released it on time (about now). To give you some idea, Dell are offering customers the option to have XP installed on certain models, due to the number of complaints they've received over Vista. I expect MS will get there in the end though - Vista probably needs the service pack due to arrive 2nd half of this year. It's always been this way with new MS operating systems. I can remember Win 98 being troublesome when it first came out with some people recommending installing Win 95 OSR2, in preference. However, lot of the problems were fixed with Win 98SE.

In answer to the OP's question, the difference between Macs and PCs is not as great as it once was, and you can't go far wrong with either. There are zealots in both camps, but there are advantages/disadvantages with both systems so it comes down to personal preference (for general use).

I personally own a Toshiba laptop which has been flawless for the last 4 years (touch wood!). Toshiba tend to come out near the top in reliability surveys and at the same time are quite competitively priced. On some of their models, they will repair or replace your laptop if it fails within the guarantee period AND refund your money. Perhaps something to look out for..
laptop computers - Surrey_Scientist

My advice would be be to buy a 2nd hand IBM Thinkpad laptop.

A good model would be an R51, which I have.Or if you are feeling flush a T-series which are Thin & light busines machines, and have Titanium composite case.

Very solidly built, plain black finish which means its not "flash looking" and doesn't attract sticky fingers

Also loads of spares/parts to upgrade with on ebay if you so wish.

Also loads of technical support on IBM website.

A big advantage is many models ahve a "hot-swap" CD-ROM bay, which means you can upgrade the optical drive, but also can take an extra battery, so can get 9hrs use, or even put ina DVD burner, or a 2nd hard-drive instead.

Can also get alternative 9cell instead of 6cell main batteries as well, if away-from power use is your thing.

SO very versatile.


laptop computers - Baskerville
OK, for what it's worth here's a list of some of my favourites (stuff I use almost daily), some of which even run on Windows. Since you seem so interested in switching, be reassured there is no shortage of software. Google is your friend.

Omnioutliner
Devonthink
Nisus Writer
Scrivener
NeoOffice (OpenOffice.org for the Mac, with no X-server shenanigans).
Delicious Library
Firefox
GIMP for image editing
Scribus for page layout
Nvu for web page editing.

And the built in stuff I use regularly:

iLife Suite--iPhoto, iTunes, etc.
Apache web server
FTP server
SAMBA server (Windows file sharing of course)

There's been a Windows emulator for Mac for a decade or more now I believe. And some would say that Vista is a (very, very poor) Mac emulation.
laptop computers - uk_in_usa
I have had various ThinkPads, most recently a ThinkPad G40 which is a 3.2GHz Pentium desktop chipset. It's comparatively heavy but build quality on these units is top-notch, it gives you a feeling of rock solid bullet proof stability. However its performance is rather disappointing. All the other Thinkpads (about 4 I think) I had were also very well made. I also have a Dell Latitude D620 Core 2 Duo which does not feel that well made, but on the other hand the performance is much better than the ThinkPad. Additionally I have an Averatec 3150P which I am also happy with although its main function is supposed to be light word processing and email I used it for software development for a long time, the only problem being the Spectrum like keyboard. I've never had any problems with any of the above machines.

The only laptops I have seen people have endless problems with have been Dell Inspirons. I've tended to avoid Dells completely for that reason but as I say am I very happy with the D620 which has not had a problem in the 3 months I've had it.

Doh! I just noticed "macbook". Well maybe my views will be of use to somebody ;-)
laptop computers - deepwith
I had a G4 ibook, which I loved for all sorts of reasons. I got a white MacBook from Father Christmas - even better: lighter, intel processor and so forth. Two reasons I would go for the Mac: firstly its battery lasts at least five hours and secondly, I have yet to have a virus on any of our Macs - yes, I know they exist but they are rare and just don't get through.
In the meantime, my G4ibook developed a rare problem with the logic board (wonder if this was from being dropped by younger son?) and Apple are replacing it with a MacBook - no, I am not getting the money back as well, but am not complaining as it is about two years old!
Son's Fujitsu Siemens has had to be constantly reformatted due to virus activity slowing the whole thing down and the battery life is very short. Daughter swopped her Vaio (sp?) for a G4ibook, having borrowed mine, and has no problem using it with educational software as a teacher.
laptop computers - Pica
I have just changed to a Macbook Pro and it is superb. Windows in Parallels starts in half the time the PC notebook does although I hardly use Windows anymore the Mac s so much more professional IMHO.