Nobody ever told me that!
Is that why, when I replaced my tyres in October, the car was running a bit harshly and guzzled more fuel than normal for about 2 months [ which, incidentally, was how long it took me to cover about 500 miles... ]?
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IMO one doesn't need to worry about speed. Instead, remember that grip might not be all it should be initially, so drive accordingly.
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There's two issues to worry about, the mould release compound that takes miles to wear off and the gloop that they've lubricated the rims with to get the edge of the tyre over the rim. Accelerate or brake sharply before the gloop has dried and you risk the tyre slipping on the wheel, then it needs rebalancing.
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I read often, only post occasionally
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Interesting and useful. Tks Spikeyhead.
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Have also, always gone for the 50-60mph, for first couple of hundred miles.
Last time I did this I got pulled over by the Police, on a Saturday evening, around 11pm, on the M25. This was when we were lucky enough to run the XJ6 Sovereign, with Janspeed twin turbos (another story).
The officer thought it perhaps a little unusual to be in the inside lane & was expecting me to have had a an alcoholic beverage, or 2! Never have done, BTW!
I din't really have a problem with that though - but I think he was a little disappointed!! Shows how long ago this was, to find an active Police presence, on our highways!!
VB
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i was always told it was because the casing had a water content in it after manufacture
i always run new tyres in
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i was always told it was because the casing had a water content in it after manufacture i always run new tyres in
wouldnt that invalidate the speed rating on the tyre , surely they must be able to perform to spec as soon as there fitted, you dont have to "run in " a parachute!
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As mentioned, you do need to run tyres in until manufacturing chemicals have worn off. Never really noticed any performance hit, but I do take it easy on any new tyres.
Where I do notice it, is when buying new cycle tyres (performance ones at £30 each) for my race bikes - they really do struggle to hold the road on corners until all the 'lubricants' have worn off. - Usually a hundred miles and they are OK.
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Any motorcyclist would tell you that you'd be foolish to "whazz" a big bike on a fresh tyre, don't see why it should be any different in a car, put it like this I never took any chances with new rear tyres on my cars - especially in the 90s when the (big engined) 3 series was a bit iffy on its rear end in anything other than perfect road conditions.
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I thought I'd read that release agent wasn't so much of a problem as it used to be - but there is certainly a shiny surface from contact with the mould. Lethal on a bike until it's been scrubbed off - the trouble is how do you scrub it off the far edges without pushing it to get the lean in the first place?!?
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Yes, agreed - a biker I know will rub the entire surface of his new tyres down with Emery paper when he replaces them. He is an obssesive tough !
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The extremes are a worry on any 'bike' but it's far more lethal in damp weather for cars/bikes- even my pedal bike's tyres squeal cornering when new.
A few damp/wet rides, with no pushing the corners will remove the stuff.
PS Cycle tyres are well up there with technology - we've been using dual tread compounds for years, well before motor bikes. Believe it or not, Michelin, Continental and Vittoria make the best cycle tyres !
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and the gloop that they've lubricated the rims with to get the edge of the tyre over the rim.
very doubtfull that the tyre would spin on the rim .
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Agreed, the only time I have known this to happen was to a performance car with studded tyres on ice and very recently fitted (at a service halt mid rally).
The studs gripped well, the power was too much and span the rims not thr tyres. Not a common occurence.
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very doubtfull that the tyre would spin on the rim .
Sorry, but I have to agree with spikeyhead. A mate of mine that used to work for a local independent tyre company said that it was quite common for it to happen if you didn't lay off the loud pedal for the first 50 miles or so. He proved it to the disbelieving customers who accused him of not balancing new tyres correctly by putting a yellow wax crayon mark on the tyre in line with the valve when he first fitted the tyres, and then when they came back complaining he pointed out the mark was no longer in alignment with the valve.
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In competition circles you can buy the tyre and pay extra to have it 'buffed' which removes a bit of the tread and roughs the surface up. So I suppose there is some credibility in the argument.
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Fullchat
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very doubtfull that the tyre would spin on the rim .
They don't spin! However, the tyre can move until the lubricant has dried and the rubber has embedded itself into the surface imperfections of the wheel.
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L\'escargot.
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sorry, just cant see the tyre moving on rim ,if it was that easy to slide, then surely under hard cornering the bead would leave the rim and drop into the well , and instantly deflate?
we must be talking some very very high performance car for it to actually move and a over enthusiastic tyre fitter .
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Air pressure keeps the bead against the rim: only friction stops it moving round the rim. I'd guess heavy braking would more likely cause it to shift than acceleration.
Once it's dry there's no problem and I'd imagine that doesn't take long as the tyre warms. They say you shouldn't use liquid soap or detergent as a fitting lubricant because that becomes slippery if it gets wet again but in my experience the special gloop does the same. I've seen handfuls of the stuff on removed tyres so presumably it doesn't do much harm and may help the seal.
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dont use soap or detergent it has a high water/salt content and corrodes the rim , also would rot the bead.
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im45now said:dont use soap or detergent it has a high water/salt content and corrodes the rim , also would rot the bead.
A high water content when wet presumably? That figures. The proper stuff used on my tyres was also water-based.
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Tyres certainly can slip on the rim. They don't leave the rim on bends due to the air pressure pushing them outwards.
My old motorbike has something that looks confusing at first - there is the valve sticking out and on the opposite side of the rim is what looks like a second valve - but has no hole though it - it is a tyre clamp, designed to stop the wheel spinning in the tyre.
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the old motorbike will be a trials bike with knobbly tyres, you run these at low pressures to aid grip,[ off road] these have tubes in them to stop air escaping at low pressure from the bead , the clamp stops the tyre moving on the rim and ripping the valve from the tube .
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Ah yes tubes, all part of a simpler (repairable at the roadside - almost) age...
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and a over enthusiastic tyre fitter .
Not really. He just got fed up with the occasional customer coming back complaining that he hadn't balanced the tyres properly, and having to do them again at his own expense rather than that of the heavy right footed customer who ignored his advice to take it easy for the first 50 miles or so.
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Sorry if i disagree then.
Its quite a common occurence to have new tyres fitted mid rally and immediately drive them at full power. Literally tyre on wheel, wheel on car and off!
If they slipped on the rim it would happen here more than to normal drivers and it just doesnt happen, sorry !
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>Literally tyre on wheel, wheel on car and off!
Whwnever I've watched motorsport events, the tyres are already on the wheels waiting to be fitted to the car. None of the shinagihans of having to fit the tyre on the wheel while the driver is left waiting.
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ps, and I think what people are meaning by the term 'slip' is in the sense that the tyres will move slightly on the rim until such time that they adhere properly to it, not in the sense that the tyre will remain stationary while the wheel spins inside of it.
Would you notice an unbalanced wheel on a rally car anyway?
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"Would you notice an unbalanced wheel on a rally car anyway"
Of course you would - there would be some noticable vibration, especially on Forest stages ! ;-)
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Humourous, very humourous!
But not all rally stages are on forest. Some smooth tarmac is often used and the slightest wheel problem can affect a cars result badly.
And just for the info, at most decent size rallies there are tyre changing/supplying vans at service halts that often do a roaring trade. Its not unkown for a car to have 3 punctures in one set of stages!
If the problem isnt happening on these events its not happening in the high street !
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If the problem isnt happening on these events its not happening in the high street !
DD item says
>>.....by putting a yellow wax crayon mark on the tyre in line with the valve when he first fitted the tyres, and then when they came back complaining he pointed out the mark was no longer in alignment with the valve.
So IMO it DOES appear to be happening "in the high street "
Has anyone used a marker on rally car tyres to confirm it is not happening to them ?
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And there is an awful lot of hearsay about too.
Ever had to take one back yourself? or know anyone who has?
My opinion is my opinion but it still stands imo!
A good driver will tell you about a problem with a wheel, with or without wax crayon markings though!
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Ever had to take one back yourself?
::puts hand up::
Yes, me. That's when I discovered my mate had put the yellow crayon mark on the tyre. I should point out that the mark was discrete, and unless you were intentionally looking for it, you'd probably not spot it.
But enough of my hearsay. I'll await a good driver to pass comment.
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Any trye fitters here?
Would love to hear it from them direct!
If a tyre can slip on the rim it can leak air, for the same reason !
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If a tyre can slip on the rim it can leak air, for the same reason !
yorkiebar, I think you're over exaggerating the issue here. In the case of the misallignment of the marker on the tyre compared to where the valve was, it was only out by a matter of a couple of inches. Guessing now, but that 'slippage' probably took place within the first couple of miles of being fitted. I'm not saying for one minute (and I'm sure others aren't either) that the tyre slipped a full revolution of the wheel - only far enough to throw out the balancing.
That aside, maybe rally teams (and other forms of motorsport) use a different jollop when fitting tyres than that of the guy on the street corner.
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A good driver will tell you about a problem with a wheel, with or without wax crayon markings though!
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And my opinion is that an average driver will be able to notice a steering wheel twitching.
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