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Of no relevance to me but I love reading about all this behind the scenes stuff - thanks for posting that!
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No worries..... just rember if you buy a Pug / Citroen HDI make sure its had its Cirium level checked at around 50k Miles. as its Flipping expensive to by it from a dealer. Oh and theres 2 versions too. depending on your cars model year. I version is a bit more concentrated and lasts longer as its added in smaller quantities.
Specific dosing info to follow.
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hi adi-66,
I wanted to ask some questions about the problems you had back in march, as i'm having some similar issues myself. But before I ask you a 101 questions, i wanted to make sure you're still active and will get notification of this message...?!
Look forward to hearing from you.
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Checking adi-66's profile:-
Last visited forum: Thu 22 Mar 2007
I can try emailing him for you if you like. The email address looks promising in that it's not a 'disposable' one.
DD. BR Moderator.
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would really appreciate that DD...would you ask him to take a look at the thread or should I state my problems for you to pass on?
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Hey spider Man.
Fire away with your questions.... ill do my best to answer them for you!
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adi-66, first of all thanks for coming back!
after looking at several different sites and several different problems, the one you had seemed most like the issues i'm having with my 2002 307 (110) d turbo.
I'll try and give you a full description of the problems as they happened so excuse the length of this.
We bought the car with approx 72000 miles on the clock back in march07. One thing I noticed when buying it was on the test drive the MFD stated "Check Diesel Additive" - the previous owner told me what this was and assured me that it was just temporary as the car had been in to Peugeot 100 miles ago and had roughly £600 spent on a new FAP plus top up of fluid (receipt to show). Bought the car anyway and all seemed fine until a few thousand miles later - i think at about 75k(ish) the ECU light would come on during driving and the MFD read "Unblock diesel filter". It would go off after a few miles of driving and there was no difference to performance. Fast forward to today, the car is on about 84k and for the last 4000 miles or so the frequency of the "Unblock diesel filter" message has increased; it will almost certainly come on during every trip! I tried doing the manual regeneration a few times since about 80k, but was never sure if it worked properly. WE always fill the tank up so I don't think it's a problem of short trip driving using all the additive.
I've been reading the forums for months now but finally decided to ask someone else's help.
Possibly related to another problem, I've had to call the AA out twice, mid-august (approx 80k) and mid-october (82304 - says the AA report). Both these times the car failed to start, it turned but wouldn't fire. The first time, the engineer was a great help and eventually managed to get it starting after about 45mins of looking at the fuel line etc. The second time, the engineer was probably having a long day cos he wasn't much help. After 20mins of trying he gave up and towed me to the nearby peugeot dealer. Funny thing though was after he drove away I thought i'd give it another go and it started!! I should have really done something about it the first time but one of those things, i neglected it and whilst the car was still going I avoided the expense of the dealer looking at it.
Both times the fault codes read were:
P0380 glow plug/heater circuit a. coherence
P1446 unknown fault code
P1138 fuel supply pressure regulator. stop required but regulation process still active - open circuit or short to ground
My local mechanic serviced the car (at 77k) shortly before the service indicator required it and found no problems - he couldn't help with the growing problem of ECU lights & MFD messages.
Another problem i've been having during the colder mornings is starting up - similar to some other people i've read about, the car will turn but won't fire and during turning the ESP & ASR lights flash alternately.
Coincidence or what, i checked this forum this morning just before setting off to drop my sister at work, and the damn car wouldn't start. So currently I'm on the phone to my mechanic/Peugeot/AA to sort it out. I feel fairly clued up on the possible problems but any input from anyone, particularly you as you had similar issues, would be huuugely appreciated! That way when peugeot look at the car i'll know what to avoid paying - I have finally bitten the bullet and seem to have no other choice but to take it in (provided it starts up soon or can organise a tow).
Look forward to hearing from you.
A.
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i'm sure you all know what i mean anyway but the message when i bought the car was "Diesel Additive Low" and not "Check..." as i stated above
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spider-man
Why is this being a mystery? Looks straightforward enough - by HDi standards.
If the FAP was changed and the additive replaced; then the additive control unit hasn't re-set the quantity. This can be caused by as little as a dodgy fuel-flap sensor - if everything isn't just-so, then it won't re-set and thinks that it's still empty - so no re-gens take place and the FAP blocks.
Glow-plug codes on HDi's are almost normal; they don't pre-heat at above-zero temps and the extended post-start heating eats the plugs and they usually have at least one gone; hence the frequently-seen - and ignored - glow-plug code.
P1446 is more relevant. It's one of those triple-meaning codes that PSA love and has a totally different description based on fuelling system that generates it.
If you've got a Bosch EDC15C2 ECU; then it's "Additive quantity; additive minimum level wait." See above...
P1138 is another 3-meaning code. It's well-known on HDi Bosch EDC15C2s as the definition that you've got. A general fuel-pressure problem - possibly your starting fault. Could be cracked injector[s]; failing high-pressure pump; sticking pressure reg; faulty low-pressure pump; [if fitted] or fuel-rail pressure sensor lying.
Watching the rail-pressure in live-data when cranking, non-start, is the crux. Less than 120 bar showing and it's isn't going to start injecting so no go.
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ok lol...erm...thank you...i guess it's straight forward to someone who knows!
so in order of you're post...
- hopefully "unblock diesel filter" is coming up because of a fuel-flap sensor and therefore needs a new sensor...hopefully the filter isn't completely blocked up by now right
- glow plugs need replacing??
- it is a bosch ecu - so that one can be dealt with above.
- i understand that the problems you gave examples for are all slightly expensive to fix, injectors, fuel pump etc !? a 'few' hundred £s
i'm glad my issues are trivial to you, that way I'm now somewhat clued up as to what is actually going wrong. Is there any reason that the car wouldn't start on 2nd AA engineer's attempt yet after towing a mile or so it started as normal?! I ask because as mentioned earlier it's currently on the driveway and stuck there until i organise some way of moving it...
Thanks for your quick reply too by the way :)
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spider-man
Let's take you problems in order of priority. The most pressing is the non-start.
There are at least a dozen different versions of HDi fuelling system[s] so, without knowledge of the exact details, please take that into account. [Year; engine size, code?]
At key-on the tank pump [if fitted] should run for about 8-10 seconds. When cranked, the high-pressure must reach a min of 120 bar for the ECU to even switch on the injectors. Get your mechanic, or the AA, to plug-in and read the "secondary [or rail] pressure" figures.
If they're too low, try jump-leads or a boost-charge to get some more cranking speed - or tow it. Once started, it'll crank faster with a warm engine and should re-start OK - until cooled... If the cranking pressure is OK; get them to test all the glow-plugs.
When at idle the pressure should be 298 bar - exactly. Erratic readings show a problem.
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Okie dokie, i'll try that to begin with. I'm going to get the RAC to come out so i'll ask him to do those tests. Once i know more i'll post back. Cheers screwloose!
incidently, it's a 2002 2.0 HDi 110. Code - hmmm not sure which you mean so if you can advise further with this information to hand then please let me know how to find it
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For a 2.0ltr; look in the VIN number [in the logbook if it's cold outside] for three letters - RH? something. [RHZ; RHS etc.] The third letter tells all.
When he plugs-in, the ECU will identify itself - it would be handy to confirm it is a Bosch EDC15C2.
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Hey screwloose,
it's RHS!
to give you an update, before I called the RAC I gave it a go with my mates heavy duty jumpstart, and IT STARTED!! :) had left it since the early afternoon without trying and then at about 6pm it worked. I wish I had tried it without the jumpstart first cos then I would have known if that truly made a difference! seeing as it was a very cold night previously, could it be anything to do with that? I read about all the people having troubles on cold mornings etc.
Anyways, luckily didn't have to call RAC. Left it running for a while, took it for a spin. Tried it later last night and started. Again this morning, and it started (although I put a blanket over the windscreen/bonnet lol - just in case)
Gonna take it to peugeot this time rather than risk it happening again.
Thanks for your continued support.
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hi spiderman i have the same car and the same starting problem!, i was wondering if it was a lazy starter motor on mine as i have changed the battery and glowplugs and its the same. what did peugeot come up with?
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Hello fellow sufferers
I also have a 307 (2003 110 2.0 hdi RHS) with an intermittent 'antipolution' fault. No other symptoms however. Goes fine. (for the time being) I've had the ecu read a couple of time and have 4 different faults logged. Last one was 'lambda sensor' fault. Thought I would get a code reader to log the faults myself for a while before changing anything. (garage charge £30 a go for a code read)
I got a new U581 of ebay (£60), nice bit of kit but unfortunately it doesn't seem to work on this model. Will be back on ebay soon. Had a word with 'talktomycar' today and bought an ELM327 from them. (They said it would work or money back £50) Should arrive tomorrow, not convinced that its going to work however. Believe the protocol is ISO14230-4 (KW2000)
All the data I've found about the diagnostic connector suggests that pin 16 is the battery positive. Pin 16 is not fitted on my connector, hence no power for the ELM327. I've got pins 1,4,5,7,11,12 fitted. I believe pins 4 & 5 are ground, pin 7 is K-line, pin 11 is alarm/remote. Is pin 1 or 12 the 12V line. Does anybody know?. Does anybody know of a cheap code reader that works.
Sorry to go off on a bit of a tangent on this thread but sounds like anybody with a 307 hdi will need a code reader/monitor sooner or later.
Interesting to read about the fuel cap sensor. What a rubbish system. I'll try opening the fuel cap every day for a couple of weeks to give the particle filter a good dose of additive just in case this is causing problems.
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iceskater
A Lambda sensor fault? On a diesel.....?? Hmmmm; slight problem with the code definition there. [PSA can use the same code number for three completely different things - depending on which system you read it from.]
None of the HDi's are easy to access; however, the ELM is well-known, so fingers crossed.
Don't bother just opening the cap, you have to add at least 7 ltrs of fuel to get the additive ECU interested.
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Re: This PostI got a new U581 of ebay (£60) nice bit of kit but unfortunately it doesn't seem to work on this model. Will be back on ebay soon. Had a word with 'talktomycar' today and bought an ELM327 from them. (They said it would work or money back £50) Should arrive tomorrow not convinced that its going to work however. Believe the protocol is ISO14230-4 (KW2000) All the data I've found about the diagnostic connector suggests that pin 16 is the battery positive. Pin 16 is not fitted on my connector hence no power for the ELM327. I've got pins 1 4 5 7 11 12 fitted. I believe pins 4 & 5 are ground pin 7 is K-line pin 11 is alarm/remote. Is pin 1 or 12 the 12V line. Does anybody know?. Does anybody know of a cheap code reader that works.
I need a code reader for my ever troublesome Peugeot 307 hdi 110 & like probably alot of other Peugoet owners was wondering how iceskater got on? (also bought a u581..brill tool but not on a 307!) Thanks in advance
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I have had the engine management light on for a couple of weeks now. Also got the Anti-Pollution warning message.
Did a code read and got P1446 - unknown fault.
I own a 52 reg 1.4 petrol that has done 50k.
I tried a suggestion from another website - to put in more expensive type of unleaded and the message and light have now both gone out.
Howver i saw a recent post from you ref this code...
"P1446 is more relevant. It's one of those triple-meaning codes that PSA love and has a totally different description based on fuelling system that generates it.
If you've got a Bosch EDC15C2 ECU; then it's "Additive quantity; additive minimum level wait." See above..."
What other info do you need from me to identify what this code actually means as i would still like to sort this out.
Edited by 1975mattman on 11/06/2008 at 20:35
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1975mattman
On your engine; that P1446 code means "Evaporative vacuum solenoid - circuit malfunction." Looks like it was an intermittent fault that's gone away; petrol grade would have little effect.
The EVAP valve bleeds fumes from the petrol tank into the inlet manifold to prevent unburned benzine reaching the atmosphere. It should be on the O/S suspension mount under the bonnet - a black valve with two pipes and a single 2-wire plug.
Should have a resistance of 20-30 Ohms disconnected. If so; clean it's plug with contact cleaner.
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Hi Screw loose!!!
You have your work cut out on here so it seems but a brilliant job you're doing!!
I have just had the warning message come up this week and had it done 37,000 miles has a full service history. 2.0hdi 110 307 54 plate, vin - vf
The engine magament light came on so i took it to my local pug garage and this is what they said
glow plug fault
glow plug relay fault
fuel cap sensor fault
particulate filter pressure sensor fault
differential pressure sensor fault
I had no warning signs one day, drove it for 10 miles and then it was tested and these 5 faults popped up. the garage reset the faults and said to come back when the fault light comes on to identify a singular or more faults, as they thinks its just one or two faults having a chain reaction. what do you think
thanks for your help
istar1000
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On Wednesday 16th I filled up my 307 sw at the filling station and inadvertantely dropped my filler cap. Did'nt think to much of it but noticed a small magnet stuck to the side of the car near the bottom of the rear passenger door. I picked it off and put it in the glove box as I was not sure where it came from.
Carried on as normal with no fault lights on the display but after about 120 miles the Anti polution warning and fault light came on. I have been looking on various forums then came across this one about the filler cap. Am I right in assuming the missing magnet probably caused the fault warning, if so should it re-set if I put the magnet back in, would the dosing tank empty itself ( no warning message as yet ) or stop dosing altogether and if it does not re-set how do I do this.
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There is a fuel-flap sensor in the system and if it fails to read, the additive ECU could well stop dosing and the regenerations would stop.
If you can see the position that the magnet came from, replace it and see if the light goes off. If not, it's time to find a dealer or diagnostics place with the right kit to clear it.
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Interesting about the magnet. I just checked my filler cap and sure enough there are 2 magnets on opposite sides recessed in the plastic. They are a brownish colour. I suppose it would be possible to cope with only one magnet if you knew where the sensor was located and were careful to put the cap back in the correct orientation.
Back to me trouble codes
The first read by the local gagrage resulted in the following codes & explainations
1429 - oxygen sensor
0243 - turbo waste gate
1112 - diesel pressure control
0340 - phase sensor
These were cleared but the antipolution fault came back a day later.
They read it again and got 1429 again. Re-cleared it but came back straight away without the engine running.
They said they must replace the lambda sensor. I agreed and we booked it in. Later I reconsidered and cancelled the job thinking I would live with it for a while & log the faults for a few weeks with my own fault reader to see if it was the same fault every time.
After a bit of digging on the internet I discovered some of the codes had a different meaning for a peugeot 307 2.0 hdi
1112 - intake air temp
1429 - particulate differential sensor value
0340 - cam shaft position fault
0243 - turbo waste gate
The car had a new cam belt fitted a week earlier which could explain 0340. I had replaced the pollen & air filters recently and had checked the condition of the connector terminals on the plug that went on the air box. This must have been the intake air temp sensor & explains 1112. Just leaves 1429 & 0243.
I've come to the conclusion that there maybe 2 real faults. A faultly pressure sensor or leaky/blocked pipe & a dirty/worn EGR valve. The car has done 115k miles. Goes great, but is sometimes a bit lumpy on tickover. Could a dirty/faulty EGR valve cause lumpy tick-over?
Haven't had a chance to see if the ELM327 will read the codes yet, hopefully try that tomorrow.
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iceskater
Not only do you need the car and engine code to define some PSA fault-codes - you also need to know the make, type and level of the management system. Precision is everything, guesswork will get you straight into trouble and easy it ain't.
IF - you've got a Bosch EDC15.C2; then:-
P1112 is fuel pressure below minimum value. Very common - never nice.
P1429 is particulate filter differential pressure sensor value. Coherence of the differential pressure when engine stopped.
P0340 is camshaft position sensor A; bank 1. Circuit malfunction.
P0243 is turbo wastegate regulating valve A. Circuit malfunction. [Nothing whatsoever to do with the EGR.]
Does that clarify things a bit?
If your garage really offered to fit a Lambda probe to a diesel, just pity them and find a competent garage - the laughter when they asked for one in the dealer's parts dept must have echoed through the building!
That's a classic!
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hi screw loose my name is sedohr and i have just registered with the site.
I too have been having problems with my engine rough idling, the fuel filter message has also been coming up so i have changed the filter. problem with idle is still there. I have read the message board right back from marh 07 and i have found it very intersting especaily when i got to the last message.
I have just had a diognostic check done tonight off a freind of mine that runs a garage for hgvs and light commercails and where able to use his computer to read my ecu.
ther where 4 insignificant faults and one fault that said it was the EGR solenoid control. What is this, and what does it do, could this be causing my engine to idle roughly.( it tends to slow down and change note).
thanks i awate yours or someones response.....
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sedohr
What car have you got? What year? What size engine? What is the engine code? What make of ECU is fitted?
Exactly what did the message say? Which filter did you replace?
Exactly which code numbers did your friend find - all 5 of them?
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Hi screw loose,
i never expected a response so soon but i only did the test on a spare of the moment thing and i never took note of any of the codes in fact i dont think it listed any codes just descriptions of the fault.
i will go back tommorrow and do the check again and write down the faults.
i drive a 307 2.0 110hdi with a bosch system on it. its a 2003.
I replaced the fuel filter about a year ago and i dont think it has said it again. My wife mainly drives the car and she doesnt always notice the messages.
thanks for you speedy response
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sedohr
Have a look in the middle of the VIN number of your car for the letters RH. The next letter will identify the engine type and whether it has a diesel particulate filter.
I don't think that there is a message to replace the fuel filter, if it said "Diesel filter" it meant the one in the exhaust.
The exact code numbers are vital - there are 3 thousand to choose from.
Is it misfiring at idle - or is the dual-mass flywheel coming apart? Many HDi "idle misfires" are the flywheel.
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screw loose
the next letters after RH are SB
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sedohr
That makes it an RHS, which does have a particle filter in the exhaust; get those code numbers tomorrow and we'll take it from there.
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somebody should give screwloose a medal, he,s a mechanical genius we,re lucky to have him on this forum.
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Screwlose is irreplacible!!! I'll scond that, on behalf of all of the diesel drivers in particluar, thanks Screwlose. Sorry to hijack the thread, back to the pug problems now.
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Hi guys.
a message for screloose
I had to work late tonight and have been unable to get my car checked again for the codes, but i have spoke to my mate and he said that if he had wanted to read the codes he could have on another menue so he will do the comp. check again for me i just have to find time to get there after work, it might not be until friday but i will get them.
thanks screwloose - will post codes when ive got them this week.............over and out
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I'm so glad I read about all these problems and decided against getting an hdi. Bought a nice 1.9 TDI xantia and am very pleased with it.Do you think I did the right thing screwloose?
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isis
Oh; definitely yes!! That's fixable.
The moment an HDi goes seriously wrong - it's dead. [And they go wrong in SO many different ways - you can never catch up with them.]
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Thanks screwloose.Have a look at my latest post and maybe I can get the old girl running 100%.Its nearly there.
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Just bought a 307 hdi 2.0 (110). The diesel additive mininum level low is showing so I know I need to get this filled up.. The guys I have spoke to at garages have asked the mileage (89000) upon which they say oh dear you will need a new filter! How do I know I will need a new filter? Should a message come up? or are these garages trying to knock me up into buying a filter before I really need a new one? Not sure if its had new one put in yet, it has full service history and seems to be running fine... any ideas on this anyone?
Many thanks James.
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James
The system should have been serviced at 50,000 [few are.] New filter, new additive, system re-set with suitable equipment. [It was supposed to be filter pressure-washed; but then the EU Waste Directive and the 'Elf and Safety got involved and a factory-reconditioned filter became the cheapest way.]
As it's been left so long, then the filter will be restricted by unburnable residue and a recon one will likely pay for itself in better power and economy. There is a message if it gets too bad - "Diesel filter blocked," but by then it will have trashed the sensors too and they cost big money.
Sadly; this is just part of the brave, new, green, world.
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I went to a peugeot specialist today...not a main dealer. I asked him to quote me on filling up addidtive and new filter and he said it would be expensive. He then pulled me to one side and said he could re set the ECU so as it no longer took notice of these warnings and in effect turn of the FAP system... he said it wont effect the running of the car but will just mean more emissons... would this ruin the exhaust system and damage the car?
It would cost £60 which beats the £570 peugeot main dealer has quoted me!
Any ideas if this is kosher ?
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James
It's easy to disable the system; the only problem is that the FAP then clogs up and everything comes to a grinding halt.
Even after de-catting and fitting a plain pipe; [not for £60!] you've still got to fool all the sensors - not easy - and the whole system is interlinked and networked, so grief is nearly assured.
Then there's the legal and insurance issues - de-catting's a power mod, so your insurers will be interested - as will the DVLA if you're in a emission-related VED bracket. It can't be long before this will come into the MOT.
£570 is not a bad price - just smile, pay-up and keep the fluffy bunnies happy.
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ok i am going to bite the bullet and go main dealer...one last question though if you dont mind... Say I get the dealer to fill up the additive and re-set the ecu, if I carry on driving and the warning for blocked filter does not come on does this mean I will be ok for a while?
When I was at the main dealers they pretty much said its going to need a filter and i could see pound signs in his eyes! (I know how the trade works and they will always charge as much as they can get away with) Can the filter be in a poor state but you can still drive around ok? They said they could do a diagonistics test to see exactly what needs doing...Will average joe like me be able to make sense of this read-out? I dont want a filter if i dont need it and as I said this might have already been changed or been cleaned.
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James
If the system had been serviced at around 50K, then it wouldn't have got to this state. Warnings shouldn't ever come on on a properly maintained FAP system. The dealers computer will know if it's been done.
Yes; you can re-fill/re-set the additive quantity on it's own - if they'll do it because of the risk of a comeback. If you let the filter block; it'll likely take the sensors with it - more £hundreds. A diagnostic test only measures current loading - there's no way of telling how much of that won't burn off at the next regeneration.
Surprisingly; most of the trade is very honest, don't overcharge and hate the crooks that do even more than you.
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Hi
I new to Peugeots and Forums
Bought a 04, 307 2.0 (110) hdi a week ago, under 24k miles with a good service history and tracable history.
Yesterday I put some fuel cleaner in the tank 'Grease lighting'.
After driving for a couple of miles the 'anti pollution warning message came on, yellow engine sign on the dash and the engine appears to be limited to less than 3000 revs. I filled up with more fuel to ensure the additive mix was not too strong. however the warnings did not go out
I followed the earlier advice and took it for a 40 min run on the motorway however it was hard to push the engine due to the rev restriction, unforturnatly this had no impact
I spoke to the suppling garage (did not mention the addtive) they say it not thier problem, expected response. I will keep trying with them.
Regarding the warning message what do you think the problem could be and a gut feeling on cost would be a great help
Thanks
Kevin
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If the vehicle has been brought within the last week, it is clearly their problem
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Kevin
Never put anything in a common-rail but premium DERV [or, preferably, red diesel if you can use it.]
Does this "grease lighting[?]" additive say that it's safe for diesels with a DPF in the exhaust? Which one of their extremely dubious-looking range did you use? [They sell it at Screwfix and on the Shopping channel, so it must be good!]
If you've told the supplying dealer that you've possibly damaged the car by doing this; then maybe just get the fault code[s] read and come back with them.
No regenerations will take place while the car is in limp mode with the light on.
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Screwloose,
I have a 02 1.4HDI 307, with 181K, never any trouble with this car, really.
Needed a new temp sensor, and new air flow sensor, got a new timing belt.
Recently I got my anti-pollution fault, left it up with my local mechanic, a good guy, he plugged it in, and it showed I needed a filter regeneration.
I took it too my local Peugeot dealer, they regenerated the filter, and also changed the crank pulley.
Drive the car home, no problem, no anti pollution. 2 hours later, jumped in the car, light back on.
Brought it back in to Mr Peugeot, he tells me he can find no fault, just drive the car.
Light persists on and the car is drinking juice, about 450 miles v 590 miles.
I brought the car back to my local guy again, his machine says air flow sensor, after much bull, the peugoet dealer sells him one.
The new air flow sensor is fitted, clear the fault, no problem.
Next morning being Saturday, the light is back on, I do my 40 mile Motorway drive and it is still on.
Last night I get into the car and no light.
This morning light back on.
This evening leaving work the light comes on and I get my anti pollution fault, but 5 minutes later it goes out. This evening I switched the car on and off about 5 times but it remains to be seen.
I checked the fuel filler magnets and they are still thier.
Have you encountered this problem before our can you advise.
Thanks in advance.
JB
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JB
Unless there's a circuit fault at key-on self-test, then it's odd that a MAF flags a code before the engine's running?
There's at least a dozen MAF codes available to it; which one did the ECU pick?
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Screwloose.
the engine light and fault shows on start up(my apoligies)
I undertook 6 journeys today, and on 2 of these the light went out after a short drive.
The car has become hard on fuel, ie 45mpg v 53mpg.
It is frustrating me that the problem is sparadic, and that my Dealer says drive it and see if it gets worse.
So much for main dealers.
Is their anything you can think off.
thanks in advance
JB
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JB
Another code read needed - take precise notes.
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Screwloose
Using the code reader
1e,b0,3,82 Pernament Fault
1e,b0,3,80 Intermittent Fault, reader needs some updatess
But got a PO380 pernament fault, pre post ignition relay short positive
Thanks in advance and I hope this information is of help to you
regards
JB
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JB
Hex codes are only of use to the dealer's machine. [Clearly you're using unmodified copyright software that was blagged straight off the PSA dealer tool - useless.]
P0380 is the normal glow-plug[s] gone; it doesn't need them to start, so most have got that code in there.
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Hi,Im new to the site & would like to say thanks for all the help/ideas.
My Car:-
Peugeot 307 03 2.0 110 HDI SW
My Anti pollution fault was intermittent. Turned out to be faulty air flow meter/connection.
My main fault on the car was no power when cold but ok when warm.
After much fault finding, over due repairs, to cure the problem, I was a lot out of pocket & no fix.
After my own research and old knowledge the problem was fixed.
The air intake goes via turbo either direct to inlet manifold or Via the inter-cooler. This is controlled by two valves. The direct one in my case is stuck shut, so little or no air to manifold.
The solution was to remove vacuum pipe form the inter-cooler valve & cap the same.
(The over due repairs were not down to me as I only bought the car April 07)
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hi screwloose, i have a 51 plate 307 110 hdi, love the car but ever since i bought it the auto diagnost light has been coming on on the dash and unblock diesel filter along with beep, all at same time!, no performance loss really but light shouldnt be on and covered by warranty, it has been in twice already and not been remedied, they say they cant get it to come on in the garage and they have test driven it but as soon as i picked it up from the garage i only drove about four miles and on it came again. error codes were (before it went into the garage) p01435,po1446,po1448 from memory, i havent had time to check them again since it came out of garage, additive has been topped up and counter reset, regen has supposed to have been done, but obviously something still wrong, please help as its doing my ti!s in!
p.s. new to this site so its probably come through to the wrong place, hopefully jayhdi
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jay
If it didn't get the system serviced at the recommended 50,000 miles; then this will happen. It runs out of additive; [P1446] develops a second fault with the additive system itself [P1435] and the filter blocks solid. [P1448]
If it can't regenerate, then you'll have to fit a re-con one. Also check the additive ECU is now correct with it's quantity and fully functional.
Now you know why it was sold.
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so what it needs is new filter,magnetic counter reset and regen and all should be well??
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jay
Not exactly; as well as being empty, there would appear to be [have been?] a fault with the additive system itself [five different meanings to that code - on this system alone] which needs addressing.
A new filter will re-gen if the additive system is functional. If it isn't; then it will quickly block-up and you're back to square one.
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ithas had additive topped up already,what do you mean by functional, what would you say needs to be done and checked
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The additive quantity won't re-set and the system won't work if P1435 is still present. The cause of that needs investigating.
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Hi all
I finally got my antipollution warning to go away.
One of the fault codes I was getting suggested the 'FAP differential pressure sensor' was at fault. I replaced it but fault was still there. It was only after I blew the sensor pipes out with an airline that the fault went away. Wish I had tried this before buying the sensor (£85).
Next car will be petrol
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hi Screwloose,
hi all,
I have a big problem! My peugeot is 307 2.0 hdi RHY engine code.
The antipolution fault code comes up some times and no more than 2600 revs.
Sometimes i have no thottle on the car when i wait on a red light and i try to go on! The revs won't go more than 1200.
I don't what to do anymore! Please advice!
Error codes was:
P1113 - IAT Sensor open/short
P0113 - Intake air temperature signal. Short circuit to positive or open circuit
P0102 - Flow sensor signal. Open circuit or short circuit to earth
P1198 - Pump rotor control underfueling
I disconected the MAF/IAT conector to see if the car is going better so that explains the first 3 codes.
I already changed the fuel regulator on the high pressure pump twice!
The problem is not permanent. The car is going fine but sometimes I have to thottle for few seconds and (after that) I get the antipolution fault and revs limitation to 2600. If i stop the engine and restart the limitation goes away but the antipolution faul eroor remains on the comptuter until I start over few more times.
Please advice! I don't know what to do with this car.
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nforcero
PSA codes are system specific. P1113 is as stated only if, as looks likely, you have a Siemens SID 801; on that system only, P1198 is:-
"Diesel high-pressure monitoring; volume control valve at maximum."
That one can cause limp mode. The P0--- codes are about right if the MAF is off. [Not the problem.]
So we'll need to confirm the make of ECU fitted first.
For the total lack of throttle; there are no throttle codes, so the brake-light switch adjustment is a possibility - that can cut the throttle right off.
Have you changed the fuel-filter and was it always pump diesel in the tank?
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Thanks for fast reply!
I have a Siemens SID 801. And a Siemens high pressure pump.
I put only diesel in the tank and changed the fuel pressure regulator (the one from the pump) and fuel filter twice already.
What do you mean by "Diesel high-pressure monitoring; volume control valve at maximum."?
I don't understand. The code reader said something like "flow regulator at stop".
I have no problem on the highway. Everything starts in the city, where is a lot of traffic lights!
The car seems to run better with the climatic air ON.
1. when I start the engine I can see some air in the tubes to fuel filter and to fuel pump. And some on the tube that goes back to fuel tank.
2. when the throttle goes off, if someone push on the manual rubber pump in the engine compartment, it comes on again! I don't know what to do anymore...
Please advice!
Edited by Pugugly on 26/08/2008 at 21:52
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An air leak into the suction pipe would fit with the code; the volume control valve [flow/pressure regulator] would be at maximum and the pressure not rising.
Get the front to rear fuel pipe and the tank pick-up checked for leaks.
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done that.
everything seems to be ok. no leaks
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If you've got air coming up from the tank; "seems to be" is not enough.
Air could be coming in anywhere; a mm by mm examination of the pipe and pick-up is needed.
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after I start the engine the air is not there anymore. only when it starts i can see some air.
what about the error code and sthe stop lights switch?
i need help! peugeot garage does not know what to do. they said that the high pressure pump is the problem. the car has only 66.000 km and is running very good.
but sometimes.... it does not.
screwloose? i put my hopes in you. till now you are the only man that seems to know what he's talking about.
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So the air in the pipes is only there for a few seconds?
The error code means that the ECU is trying to increase the rail pressure [pump inlet valve at maximum] but the pressure still isn't rising enough.
The new fact that the throttle comes back after pumping the primer, would suggest that there's not enough fuel being fed into the high-pressure side of the pump and it's not a brake-switch fault.
Make very, very, sure that there's nothing blocking or restricting the fuel flow - anywhere. Take the tank unit out and physically check the in-tank strainer.
If the strainer and the fuel line are perfect; then it could be the suction side of the pump. You may be able to get a diesel specialist to fit new valves into the pump - possibly?
Did you see any metal particles in the original fuel filter when you changed it?
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The air is for few seconds.
"If the strainer and the fuel line are perfect; then it could be the suction side of the pump. You may be able to get a diesel specialist to fit new valves into the pump - possibly?" - i don't understand what valve are you talking about. It is like the fuel pressure regulator (the one from the pump)?
Can it be changed on the car or should i take out the pump?
The tank is clean, washed out. The pipes was cleaned with air under high pressure.
In the fuel filter was no metal particles - it looks just perfect.
What then?
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The Siemens fuel pump also contains a suction pump to draw the fuel from the tank.
There is no fuel pressure regulator in the conventional sense. It uses a volume control valve [flow regulator - call it what you will] between the outlet of the suction pump section and the high-pressure pump.
Get an injector leak-off rate test done next. If that is OK; then, if you can't get the suction pump tested or repaired where you are, you may have to change the whole pump as a unit - at great cost.
But be very sure that there is no air getting in while it's running - I don't like the sound of those bubbles, even just when starting.
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I did it!
I used a bottle to start the car. The pipe was directly in the bottle and the return one the same. It runned just fine. I got some limitations to 2600 rpm and antipolution fault for few times at the beggining but the fuel pipe was directly in the pump (no filter), so some sensors was probably skipped. But no problems with the throttle!! The rpm at idle was about 800rpm instead of 880 rpm before!!
I don't know what to think.
I done something like that before... just with no fuel filter (right after I cleaned the tank) and the car was running perfect for one hour test in hard conditions.
I put a new filter (an entire filter) and had the same problems... so I don't think that the filter is jammed.
I put everything back on as usual and the car worked just fine on my way home, no limitations or errors, no antipolution fault. No problems since the experiment. But it will be back! Any ideas?
Edited by nforcero on 12/09/2008 at 22:24
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It's beginning to look as though the suction side of the pump isn't very strong.
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First time to site, great posts about this problem and thanks SO much for all the help and advice especially to Screwloose - genius, thank you!
DETAILS: '03 reg 307 HDi D Turbo 110 68K with intermittent messages for at least 6 weeks - Antipollution Fault and Diesel Filter Blocked. Also loss of power as prev posts describe. Taking car to dealer for diagnostics tomorrow.
Please, if I may, ask some more advice but hope not to repeat stuff detailed already, I am mainly concerned the dealer will mis-diagnose and charge me too much for stuff that won't fix my prob (NB quote from Sedg 'I have booked it in for next week so that they can do further checks, the only concern I have is that last time the car was there they was going to sell me a new BSI unit and a FAP filter!!! I guess I just need to be more inquisitive about what is required').
HISTORY: Local (good) garage initially drained water from somewhere and also gave it a run (can now assume this was to regen filter- as posts detail). Prob was briefly fixed, but returned. Garage recommended return to dealer for new FAP filter. When I realised cost (£460) I started investigating prob myself. (Bought car in December 07 and already have had wheel bearing replaced, 4 tyres, temp sensor gone).
1)My current concern is the cost of the sensors that may have 'gone' (read about in prev posts) as 'diesel filter blocked' has been appearing - does anyone have an idea on what the sensors are that may have gone and approx costs please??
2)I am planning to explain to the dealer the symptons of prob, will not mention visit and advice from non-pug garage, and then ask for codes to cross ref with posts on this site when dealer phones with results from diagnostics. Is this the best policy??
I want to try and give the garage the impression I know what I am talking about so I get a good deal and honest diagnosis - sorry for being cynical but as a female who knows nothing about cars I am sure they see me coming!
Thanks again for all posts before this and anything else anyone can add that may help.
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MissKeri
Thanks for the kind words; but don't think that the average man know any more about the technicalities of cars than ladies these days... [Or many garages come to that...]
As you'll have gathered; the "diesel filter" referred to is the FAP - so many garages think it's the fuel filter.... [That will be where your garage drained the water trap.]
1/ It's likely that the differential pressure sensor that measures the pressure fore-and-aft of the FAP may need changing - as well as the fuel cap sensor. Nothing can be said for certain - but a high probability exists.
2/ A good move; ask for a diagnosis, a print-off of all stored P-codes and a, broken-down, quote for repair.
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Great thanks for fantastically quick response - feel super confident going to dealer now. Thank you - will let you know outcome/costs in case it's any use for anyone else.
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Could I briefly interject that I feel this thread has been brilliantly handled by all concerned and will be a mine of information to many who come after.
I am really impressed that someone of the calibre of Screwloose is prepared to give so much time and patience, and share so much of his invaluable knowledge (and at all times of the day and night, I might add).
I'm afraid the problems raised here confirm my sad conclusion that, when the time comes, I will not be replacing my much-loved 306 HDi with any subsequent PSA diesel and probably not with any kind of diesel.
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Chris
Thank you - and I think that I can safely say that you won't be getting one fitted with an Eolys system.....
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Totally agree ChrisPeugeot. This thread has been so helpful.
They can't take car till 21st now so will report back then. Funnily enough and unusually I haven't had the messages now for at least 3 days, typical !
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OK warning messages did return and been to garage now.
Result was FAP blocked and sensor needing to be replaced. Total cost to replace filter, replace sensor and labour inc VAT £614. Also paid £94 for diagnostics (1 hour). After querying how long it took them to diagnose they will take 1/2 hour off my £614 bill when it gets fixed (1st Dec). They said it takes 2 1/2 hours to fix although a local non-Pug garage said it should take no more than 45 mins?
Anyway thanks so much for all your advice, I am an 'Honest John' convert now and will always consult for any motoring decisions! Pug garage service guys actually commented on how well informed I was, so thank you very much indeed.
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Did they offer an opinion as to why it blocked? I don't see an additive refill/counter re-set in that list?
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No - so I will ask when I take it in (1st Dec) - I know the cost includes the fluid (presume that is the additive refill you mention?) and will check the counter re-set is done. Thank you for your meticulous attention to detail - superb.
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Hi all and thank you to everyody for all the great information on here. I too have seen all these errors on my 307. Its a 02 307 D turbo 2L HDI 110BHP "RHS" from the cha. number.
AT 87K i brought it to main dealer with the antipolution and the unblock diesel filter faults on the mfd (they had been on for about 20K!!). To cut along story short fap was blocked and additive was empty. Got FAP and pressure sensor replaced and the additive topped up. After this car was fine and no errors until now.
Car now has 127K on it and the unblock diesel filter error has just come back. I have had it on 7 or 8 short journeys since error reappeared totaling no more than 150 miles and error is there 90% of the time.
Learning from the last time i checked out the additive tank and it is empty. I am hoping that the particle filter will be ok once i get some additive in there and get a couple of regens done.
Has anybody out there ever topped up the additive successfully themselves or will i have to take it back to peugeot to get it topped up? I am not concerned with filling it, if i could get a couple of litres in there that will be enough for me to be able to sell the car.
If i was succesful in a DIY top up will regen occur without geting the reset done on the ECU by dealer?
What is the best method to force a regen? i have seen different posts from having it above 3500 revs for more than 6 mins to having it over 50MPH for 6mins, which is correct?
I have it booked into the dealer for next Friday 5th December but would love to avoid this cost as i am about to advertise the car.
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Just an update.
Car never showed any message to say that the additive was low this time or the last time problem occurred. I have bought a 3L refill kit from Peugeot for a cost of ?107 which came with pipes etc needed and have put it into the car (easy enought to do if you have a pit or away of lifting the car to access underneath)
I will test car on thursday when i transfer the insurance for a couple of days and get it out on the motorway. According to a friend in Peugeot i will have to take it in anyway and hook it up to the diagnostics to have the ECU reset. Will let ye know how i get on.
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Just an update (apologies for length, but hope this helps others):
£730 inc vat for new filter, new sensor, new fluid, re-set and labour. Apparently it was blocked because 'it got blocked with stuff that wasn't burning off'.
[Pug said fluid should be 'replaced' at 48K (although I read in my manual 'maintenance should take place on the filter 48K' - so assume same thing). Pug said filter would be advised to be replaced at 72K anyway (on 68K now so suppose I have saved a job for later?)].
Anyway I drove it for few days and light came back on again, grrrrrr, so took it back in yesterday. They have now fixed it as they said the sensor wasn't fitted on correctly (Do'h... presuming of course that this was the garages fault as they replaced it, but no real admittance there from Pug dealer!). Didn't pay anything but they drove for 60+ miles trying to work out the problem.
Whilst driving around in my car they also noticed a number of other faults. I was aware of them all (pretty minor things) except that apparently the fly wheel for the clutch is making a 'ting' noise and is disintegrating. They mentioned this is expensive (£300+ for parts and 7.4 hours labour @ £80p/hr). They didn't give me a timescale for this problem so will phone them tomorrow to see how urgently it needs doing.
Probably going to try and sell the car in the new year as I am so fed up with it. Bought it for £4995 in Dec 07, spent £1775 on it this year (inc MOT and 4 new tyres). Presume this is extreme???
Will check the other thread on fly wheels ! At this rate I'll be able to re-train as a mechanic.
(After thought to Screwloose - didn't mention it before but before the warning messages started I had to be towed back from Bristol (to Maidenhead) because the air intake pipe was collasping. Was wondering if this would have started off the anti pollution message initially ??) Thank you for all your help :o)
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Hi Screw loose,
Once again as everyone keeps saying you seem to be an absolute genius.
I have just had a reconditioned engine fitted on my 307Hdi 90bhp 2002 RHY. The cam shaft I think went on my old that was the only reason I had to get a new one.
On fitting the new one everything was swapped from original engine to the new one. Apart from fuel injectors which I had from a company specialising in pug parts. Upon cranking over for ages the car finally started. The exhaust is pumping out horrendous amount s of black smoke. And the Anti Pollution fault is illuminated. We were under the impression the injectors may need to get remapped or reprogrammed. We took it to the garage and they diagnosed it with a few faults. Could you possibly shed some light?
The Garage gave an explanation of each fault, but we need to know what can be done as they didn't shed any light. seems strange as no fault was registered befoe we swapped it over.
P1641 P1210
P1197 P0481
P1356 P0480
P1176 P1164
Regards
BRO_KAD
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From the top:-
P0481 Cooling Fan 2 - Control Circuit Malfunction
P0482 Cooling Fan 3 - Control Circuit Malfunction.
P1164 SID 801 - Fuel pressure signal.
P1176 SID802 - Fuel flow regulation fault. Coherence.
P1197 Key off voltage low / Piezo-electric injector, power stage.
P1210 Injector control pressure above expected level.
P1356 Not listed for this vehicle/engine. Recheck code.
P1641 SID801 Piezo-electric injector, power stage.
What have you done? The only conclusion that I can come to is of some horrible mis-match between engine and fuelling system.
What make of fuelling is fitted? Why were the injectors changed?
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Screwloose
Thankyou for the prompt relpy, the recon engine that came was a bosch fuel system and we changed it to seimens from the old engine. they were changed as one snapped whilts trying to remove from the old engine.
Is there anything you can think of we can do?
Regards
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Did you change everything over? The pump, the rail, all the sensors?
As Piezo injectors are super-fragile and will never survive removal; were these new injectors from an impact-proof casing?
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Hi, Screwloose,
YES everything was changed, i am unaware of the injectors conditions as there were brought from a pug used parts dealer.
So are you suggesting that a new injector system is needed?
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Hi Screwloose,
I came across this post and would appreciate your opinion.
I drive a 5+1/2 years old Peugeot 307SW 2.0 litre petrol in Singapore.
VIN is VF33HRFNF83158175.
About 2 years ago I had the dreaded Anti Pollution Fault warning light first pop up. Since then, the warning light has been permanently on, except when my car is in Peugeot / Autofrance for servicing when they reset it. But it comes back on soon after.
The P code is P0410 : Permanent fault. Air injection at exhaust. Malfunction.
The workshop tells me this is due a build up of carbon in the engine. Which would normally occur in any petrol engine anyways. Except here it is picked up by the sensor. Based on the advise of the workshop, I am using higher grade/octane petrol with fuel additives and also tried engine flushes during servicing with no success. I don't think it is really necc. and worth the cost to overhaul and decarbonise the engine.
Do you think this is the problem ? Appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks, actl
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Hi Screwloose
I have a few problems with my Peugeot 307, I needed some advice so I don?t get ripped off.
It?s a 307 HDI 2.0 D Turbo 110 BHP, 53 Reg, about 52,000.
The Engine management light is on and often while driving the dial flashes STOP
?Engine Coolant Temp Too High?, Also it will say quite often ?Anti Pollution Fault?.
The car doesn?t drive the same, infact it?s quite sluggish.
I have took it too Peugeot whom wanted a ridiculous amount to fix it.
This is what the report says.
Engine ECU
EDC15C2
Permanent fault, EGR solenoid valve, EGR solenoid valve circuit short-circuited to earth or open circuit.
Permanent fault, Particle filter, PEF pierced or differential pressure info incorrect.
Intermittent fault, Engine coolant temperature signal, Short circuit to positive or open circuit.
Intermittent fault, Additive quantity, Additive ECU.
Intermittent fault. Additive quantity. Maximum additive in PEF threshold reached.
They also said if you sort the top two (as above) then all faults will go.
I've also been told to fit a EGR Valve, but if it's only a loose connection I'm completly wasting my money. Where can this EGR valve be found?
What?s the best and cheapest solution? And how much should I be paying for this work?
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hi ice skater sounds like i have same problem is your a 307 hdi rhs same as mine and is it the two metal pipes on the dpf you blow out 1 at the front of it and 1 at the back if so do you need yo disconect the sensor and where is it locted thanks
Edited by pug307 on 04/06/2009 at 17:14
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Did you get to the bottom of your problems with your peugeout?
I am having the same problems with my car and would grately appreciate it if you could mail me with the answers, its driving me crazy!
thanks simon.
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Hi. I went to a garage today with the same problem 'anti pollution fault' with me 55 reg 307s which has 37k on the clock. Got told it was something to do with the timing belt and how its compartments are not in sync with eachother. Anyone heard that before?? I only bought the car in this January so i will be complaing hard until the dealership fix it for free as i was told the belts had al been changed, but no one seems to have a similiar problem to mine on here. :S confused!!
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having trouble with my 307 peugeout 110 d turbo 51 plate, anti pollution warnings , engine manage ment light on and also my power has gone and i cant get over 3000 revs? ive had a diagnostic report done and have a load of codes ,
p1357 undocumented code
p1446 additive level
p1429 differential exhaust pressure (ive got to the bottom of this one)
p1447 particulate filter
p0571 brake control signal (ive done this one too)
p1536 esp plausability
c1326 wheel speed sensor (done this one also)
u1208 car invalid message from engine
if anyone out there has had the same problems or knows how too rectify any of the problems could you possibly let me know as this car is driving me crazy!! ive read all the other massages but still not really making any sense too me, so any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks simon.
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having trouble with my 307 peugeout 110 d turbo 51 plate anti pollution warnings, engine manage ment light is on and also my power has gone to 3000 revs? ive had a diagnostic report done and have a load ofcodes;
p1357 undocumented code
p1446 additive level
p1429 differential exhaust pressuer
p1447 pariclate filter
po571 brake control signal
p1536 esp plausibility
c1326 wheel speed sensor
u1208 car invalid message rom engine
if anyone out there has had any of these problems o knows how to rectify any of hese problems could you possibly let me know as this car is driving me crazy!! ive read all the other messages but still very confused, any info wuld be grtely appreciated.
MESSAGE AMENDED
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hi could you tell me if my car has a filter in the exhaust the vin numbers are rhyb
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