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Would the offence be an "air-con" ?
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Ok, so how will they know it was me? :o) Will the CFC police hunt me down?
I guess the real question is "has the a/c circuit got any pressure if it isn't working as it should be (or indeed at all!)?" Like the idea of tying it up out of the way though...
Like the idea of dropping the motor just enough to slide the cam out but how easy it it to get the followers to clear the cam lobes on removal and installation?
The push rod goes up and down but doesn't get anywhere near the follower (and the adjuster is wound fully in) which means there is something worn away (big time)in the bowels of the donk.... the other valves all look ok so I'll be paying special attention to the oil situation when I get in there!
Tonight I shall mostly be taking the head off.
Thanks all!
JC
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John
Yes; the tappets could be a problem. On the Kent they were T-headed and thus could only go in from the sump; I'm not sure if the Valencia is the same - it's been a l-o-n-g time since I did one. If they're the conventional bucket-shape; then a retrieval magnet will pull them out. Have a look at the ones that you've got; if they're T's, then it's either sump-off, or engine out.
Just asked a Ford tech and the cam will come out the side - they spring the pushrods out and hold the followers up with eight magnets! That's not a lot of good if one is trashed like yours though. His comment was; "Why bother - it's only ten minutes to get the engine out." Hiring an engine stand would be useful. Then you could turn it upside down and do it in comfort.
Air-con stops working when the low-pressure switch detects too little pressure; there could still be quite a lot of gas in there. Watch your fingers - frostbite takes some explaining at A+E....
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Certainly are T shaped Screwloose! I'll go for the engine out (10 minutes - HAHAHA! :)). Cylinder head off and block face down onto a piece of MDF in the drive for the amount of work I'll be doing. The car needs to be roadworthy by nightfall Sunday as our darling child needs it monday!.
I'm going to see if I can remove the a/c pump and tuck it clear of the engine. I've no idea when the a/c stopped working mind...
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www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/index.htm?p_make=FOR...6
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I promise I won't tell on you.
I am not familiar with the total air con installation on motor vehicles, so I am speaking from experience of refrigeration systems as used in pub bottle coolers.
It is possible on this (bottle cooler) type of installation for the "high" pressure side of the system to develop a blockage. This causes the pressure in the low pressure side of the system to go extremely low. The system then exhibits symptoms of having no gas in it. Without attaching pressure gauges to the system, it is difficult to tell.
The car aircon systems I have looked at have two access fittings. One on each side of the pressure divide mechanism. One will be in the pipe between the compressor and the condenser.(the "radiator" fitted at the front of the car). The other will be in the pipe between the compressor and the evaporator.(mounted somewhere at the back of the engine bay/scuttle area). This one is the low pressure side.
The other, front, one will have pressure in it if the system is blocked. This is the one to be wary of.
The gas itself is most likely to be R134a. (This should be marked on the system somewhere) It is non-toxic, but a room full would cause asphyxiation. Exposing it to a naked flame causes it to decompose and form mustard gas.
For those with more knowledge on car aircon than me, I have assumed that the evaporator is controlled by an expansion valve and that these can be blocked in a similar fashion to a capilary tube.
Tying the compressor out of the way without disconnecting the pipes seems like the best way to do it.
Good luck.
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The car needs to be roadworthy by nightfall Sunday as our darling child needs it monday!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
You are obviously a betting man Johnc150x
hope the odds are good
and your fingers are small
and your spanners good ;-O
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My spanners are good, and my fingers are dirty.. Does that count?
Hit a road block last night though - O2 sensor needs a bigger spanner than I've got (hopefully fixed by raiding the toolbox at work - obtained 20 - 22mm, a 24 and a 27mm*). If that doesn't do it I've got a hyooge adjustable. As expected, all of the exhaust fittings a corroded and seized so out come all of imperial sockets and spanners (not to mention the WD40 and blowtorch).
Still at a loss on the a/c though :(
JC
*So that will mean I need a 23mm - does anyone actually know size of a Ford O2 sensor?
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>>Hit a road block last night though
Can't you just unplug it from the wiring harness, and leave it in-situ on the manifold?
Number_Cruncher
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Unfortunately not - I need to get the heat shield off to either remove the manifold or disconnect the cat.
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Could you please let me know how you get on with this, my camshaft on my Fiesta is a bit iffy although I may not keep the car long enough to warrant a replacement. I assume you have looked into the cause of this cam failure to avoid happening again?
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There appears to have been a dodgy batch of followers and cams on early Endura E engines (I think the supplier misread Ford's design spec and used cheese instead of steel).
I will be checking the oil feed but I don't know what has gone or what the failure mode is until I get to the cam. The cam may be alright and it's just the follower that's gone west..
While I think about it, a big up for SAP Auto Supplies in Surrey - phoned the order in on Weds, new cam kit (cam, followers and lube) there waiting when I got home from work last night. Cost was £89 inc VAT and postage. The parts are by Ultra Part (whom I've never heard of) and look ok. Local Ford dealer also came up trumps with the gaskets as well.. I will need an accesory drive belt, oil and coolant but that's no prob...
Knock off at 3pm for 6 more hours of Ka fun... Will keep you all informed of progress.
JC
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I assume you're going to replace the timing chain too? Cam wear always seems to be a problem with these Valencia derived engines. As does plugs getting stuck (happened to my GFs Ka).
On the plus side even when the engines are knackared they seem to run and run and run. Once you get the camshaft replaced I bet that engine easily does another 50k. The auxeries seem to be very good on Fords too. Never known a failed alternator or starter motor on a Ford, its a shame the same can't said about sensors and coil packs (which always fail on my dads escort).
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I agree, my 1.3 pushrod engine in a 1991 escort did 112K without being touched apart from servicing( self).
Front brakes were a problem from the start though, with new caliper at 5 years. Also new rear quarter panel at 6 years under warranty for rot at petrol filler.
I still have a Ford, as the spares are cheap, well I hope they still are when I need any.
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toolbox at work - obtained 20 - 22mm, a 24 and a 27mm
It will be a 22, 24 or 27. Ford don't do anything in between I don't think.
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Mike Farrow
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i have always have used an open ender on lambdas cos im too tight to buy the proper cut sockets.
wonder if its running yet?
chains on those endura types are long lived in my opinion,it was the 950/1100 engines that seemed to wear them out earlier due to the tensioners not being up to the job me thinks
or silly mileage 1300"s
discuss?
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im too tight to buy the proper cut sockets. Ok, update time... (long)
Friday PM
Continued steadily disconnecting stuff - the O2 sensor removed with a 21mm ring spanner and the heat shield dispatched. Lots of other multiplugs, vac hoses, petrol pipes, exhaust etc separated..
Saturday
How on Earth did they fit that lot into such a small car! Much of Saturday was wasted on a Haynesism. One paragraph, so simple in it's intent cause so much delay. The offending action was the separation of the lower suspension arms from the hub/strut assy. Now, I have done this before on Escorts and got replacement torx bolts as these normally get terminally mashed on removal (clever huh?). This time the bolts departed the car relatively easily (I should have started to worry at this point), but the balljoint pin was firmly in place on both sides and would not budge. Use of heat was out of the question due to the balljoint gaitor so WD40 was liberally applied and a mug of tea consumed. much hammering, levering and cursing followed. A jack was placed under the hub and the suspension loaded up, and I ended up with a crowbar as a lever and eventually they came apart. Hours wasted! One useful tip though. When applying full welly to a crowbar, push away from yourself. If you pull, and the crowbar slips you end up with a black eye... Don't ask me how I know, I just know ok?
Suspension apart, I was then free to carry on disconnecting and removing stuff - Local air con specialist emptied the a/c, local idiot (me) emptied the power steering fluid all over the drive. Engine was dropped without too much drama early Saturday evening, head removed and then the motor inverted (more oil on the drive) for the strip down on Sunday. Last job of the day was to take off the oil pump. Two of the three bolts came out as normal. The third has a long hex post just for supporting a pipe. The post unscrews revealing a long thread with a torx/star type end, which snapped off when I tried to undo it. Bathtime.
Sunday 8:00am
.*********
Turning my attention to the oil pump again, I tried two nuts on the thread - no go as thread in the nuts just stripped. Mig welder time, Welded a nut onto the shaft and bingo, job done!
Sump off, timing cover off (and water pump) and camshaft out. Cam shows signs of wear, but isn't too bad. Seven of the eight followers were ok, but the eighth (inlet on number three) was about 12mm shorter and missing the wider bottom face (which follows the cam lobes) entirely. New followers and cam installed in short order and reassembly could commence.
Or not as it turned out. Ford in thier wisdom neglected to send the correct gasket set or include a timing cover gasket.... So I wrapped everything in polythene and sulked!
*sigh*
JC
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Further on the Sunday 8am entry where it says ****** for some reason
Having read the Haynes manual the previous evening, it turns out that the transmission and flywheel needs to be removed to gain access to two of the sump fixings... Bu9ger. Gearbox came away quite easily and my compressor was brought to the driveway to gun the flywheel bolts and the crank pulley bolt off (after the clutch was removed). God knows what the neighbours thought! Sump off, timing cover off (and water pump) and camshaft out. Cam shows signs of wear, but isn't too bad. Seven of the eight followers were ok, but the eighth (inlet on number three) was about 12mm shorter and missing the wider bottom face (which follows the cam lobes) entirely. New followers and cam installed in short order and reassembly could commence.
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On this note I have decided that when my camshaft problems cause an MOT failure [due to exhaust valves not opening/closing properly etc] or the engine not to work its time for my car to go to the scrap yard :D
There is no way I would have the patience to do all that even if I had the knowledge.
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where it says ****** for some reason
Because you triggered the swearfilter.
DD.
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Thought it was!
Shall have to be more careful with my words...
Right, time to ring Ford..
JC
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interesting reading Johnc150x keep up the tail its good
wonder why its always the bucket on number 2/3?
is it oil starvation?i dont know
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Johnc, this is better than Big Brother!
Did you find the "lump" which fell off the broken cam follower?
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There were some flakes on the oil strainer, but in my opinion the hardening on the follower was either way too thin or non existant, and it just wore away over the 63k miles.
As for it always being number two or three, I've no idea. Considering the location of the cam (in the block) and that it's lubrication is by splash from the crank (I couldn't see any spray holes) oil starvation is unlikely, unless the oil runs low. Maybe they just run at a higher temperature - having said that, there was no evidence of heat distress on the cam or the follower. It's unlikely, but another cause could be that the manufacturing station used the dodgy batch of followers to feed that location in the block (it's all done automatically).
I used to work on Diesel design at Ford so I'll see if any of my contacts can shed any light (an investigation will have been carried out).
Had a nice little chat with my Ford parts people last night - the lower gasket set was wrongly supplied and should have had a timing cover gasket included. GRRR! Should be in today. I shall also be enquiring after a set of PAS cooler pipes as the ones with the car are a little corroded (and after struggling to get the donk out not entirely the original shape), and a heater valve on the bulkhead that I, er, snapped the spigot off of while removing the hose. I think it was very weak anyway: took the hose clip off and tried my luck (as you do) at pulling the pipe off and it came away really easily. After a brief moment of exultation reality dawned and panic/depression rapidly followed.
When we have this project finished I'll do a lessons learned I think (as well as reviewing products for removing oil from block paving - She who must be obeyed is going to go ballistic when she sees the mess!)...
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Bit of an update.
Hoist and engine stand borrowed from work (as suggested by a contributor to this thread). Engine stands are GOOD. Ford finally came through with the correct gaskets and reassembly started in earnest. Apparently Halfords finally have my FEAD belt and thermostat in as well (I have a trade card otherwise I wouldn't touch them and it was a Sunday afternoon!).
With the motor on the engine stand (it's a Clarke one) everything is so easy, so in fairly short order I've got the sump back on, timing cover and water pump all refitted, A/C pump in place, head on and tourqed down, the valve gear on and the clearances set. Tonight I hope to have the FEAD belt and manifolds refitted and hopefully the flywheel, clutch and gearbox back on (which means loosing the beloved engine stand!).
One thing that did worry me... Angle tightening of the head bolts. Does anyone else feel that the bolts are going to snap? I cranked the first 90 deg stage on thinking it was fairly hefty and was waiting for the "bang" when I piled the second 90 deg stage on!
Next: fitting the engine back into the car. Hmmmm... That'll be fun!
JC
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As you say an engine stand is a great bit of kit. It's not until you get one that you wonder why you spent years struggling. Every house should come with an engine stand and an hydraulic lift in the garage..
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One thing that did worry me... Angle tightening
As long as they're not being used for the third time then you're OK. I tightened mine to roughly 90 degrees and they're fine.
Mark them up with a centre punch as per Haynes (though I scored the top with a hacksaw blade) so you know this is their 2nd outing.
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Mike Farrow
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I took a flyer on that they hadn't been used before! Stupid really, considering that a new set is only £2.50 + Vat.. At least I've got the angular torque guage (from when I did a Cavalier head many years ago).. 90 deg + 90 deg still seems harsh though.
I've got far too many tools! Actually you can never have too many tools (despite what her indoors says) :o)
Got no further last night - weather defeated me, but I think I have all the parts now so it's time to put it all together again..
Keep tuned for the next instalment!
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Almost a week behind schedule now :) This is why I will never attempt a big job on a car, I will not have the patience.
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OK, so what!! targets get missed, the OP set a very tight target time, which was initially missed because of poor part supply. Jobs like these are never straightforward. No point in sneering at someone who has taken on a project and is seeing it through!! Give the OP credit.
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No point in sneering
I think you'll find Rattles comment was tongue in cheek - hence the smiley. I'm sure he wasn't deliberately sneering at the OP.
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No offence taken! The "customer" risks a slap if he complains and is told that he can finish it himself :o) If it wasn't for the Parts shortage I'm sure that the job would have only overun by a few hours! Since 11am sunday I've only really done a further 4 hours of proper graft so we'll see how long it takes from now.
I think the 5 hours wasted seperating the front suspension and "Quick Release" (bwahahaha) hose couplings will be regained. I'll also not muck about putting the manifolds on in situ, instead I'll fit as much as possible on the engine stand. Should shave another couple of hours off the time!!
I'll be back.
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IT LIVES!
Fired up first turn of the key (well second as the battery was a little flat and I had to jump start it). It was off the axle stands and heading towards the filling station at 20:30 Saturday night. Sounds as sweet as anything.
The only issue is a coolant leak in the water pump area - Hopefully sorted by rad weld! If not I'll nip the bolts up.. Just a bit of a pain to get to.
I still need to tourque up the sump bolts the final time.
To backtrack a little, I assembled the engine on the stand (everything on - Inlet and exhaust manifolds, starter motor, accessory drive belt etc) and then put the flywheel, clutch and gearbox back on. That took Friday night. On Saturday I replaced the heater valve I broke and turned my hand to refitting the engine!
When I pulled the engine out, I stripped off as much as possible to give me room to drag it out. Obviously the engine was now a little more bulky, but I had a cunning plan. Using the hoist, I put the engine assy on to a sturdy mechanics creeper and then lined it up roughly in position. Using the hoist the front of the car was lifted high enough for the engine to slip underneath (which it duly was) and then the car was lowered back down to the axle stands. Hoist rehitched to the engine and then pulled into place (ish). The rest was plain sailing really!
Lessons learned:
1. As always the right tools make the job easier - this time it was the ford special tool for the "quick release" coupling that would have saved ages.
2. If you ever consider taking an engine out and overhauling it, a hoist and and an engine stand are essential.
3. Be brave, you can do it! Garage price would have been £500 minimum I reckon for this work - we did it (admittedly a lot more slowly) for around £200 (£90 for the cam kit, £80 for the gaskets, £50 for filter, oil, thermostat, coolant, drivebelt etc). I think we could have done cheaper by only replacing the cam followers and not taking the head off, but that's not a proper job is it!
Open for questions!
JC
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Many congratulations JC. Can be quite gruelling that kind of job. And satisfying when the thing runs properly afterwards.
I can't help worrying a bit about the Radweld though. Trouble is it can block up small holes where it shouldn't - I had problems with it in the head gasket of my Plymouth in the 70s. But perhaps you will be all right - obviously most people are or it wouldn't still be available. Fingers crossed.
Well done.
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Well done - reminds me of 30 years ago when I was a young lad. I watched my dad curse as he stripped down the engine of the Vauxhall Viva 1300 (LMY 157L) he'd not long owned - using eggboxes for all the bits as they came off and then spending ages grinding valves by hand. 7 years engineering apprenticeship did him proud over the long nights he spent sorting the thing out.
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