***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 116 *****
In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
Usual rules apply,
No motoring related discussion,
No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 115. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=20892
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
|
Well I think for it to respond to the on button at the front of the case at all, or for it to turn itself on by itself, it has to be in standby. All the PCs I play with are, unless explicitly turned off on the power supply on the back of the case with a rocker switch or off physically at the wall.
Hi Dipstick- when I said it's not in standby, I meant I turn if off by selecting 'switch off' (or similar) rather than 'hibernate' or 'standby' from the options given to me by Windows (and I'm in linux at the moment- apologies if I've got the exact wording wrong). I understand what you mean now, and I would be interested to see how much power my PC takes when 'off' - I was surprised when you said yours takes 27 watts in your post.
As a trivial but just possibly helpful beginning, have you looked at the event manager, see if anything is logged in there at 12 midnight? Quick way of getting o that is Start>Run and then type eventvwr to launch it. See if anything leaps at you from there?
Yep, been through all that, or as much as I can find- the only thing scheduled for midnight was Windows internet time sync (doesn't appear in the Windows scheduled tasks list), and it doesn't say anything about turning the PC on to do it. Haven't yet proved whether this is the cause or not- I would have thought it unlikely, but then the timing suggests otherwise.
John
|
|
When a PC is shut down though still has power to it the power supply will be feeding 5v to the mother board, the front switch simply shorts two pins on the motherboard which kicks it into life, some industrial applications have a PCI timer card in place of the front switch, i.e. the timer card is connected to the same pins on the mobo that the front switch would normally connect to and starts the PC at a date and time pre programmed via software. Unless your machine has this sort of funtionality it is either not shutting down properly so is going into standby or hibernating or something is inadvertently causing a short on the mobo, perhaps the front switch is faulty for instance.
|
I think some of the sort of functionality you are talking about is built into the motherboard/BIOS; mine has lots of 'wake on ...' options which are all currently disabled. Some Windows tasks have a 'turn on PC if off' option, although I guess this depends on hardware support.
I would suspect the switch if it wasn't for the fact that the PC turns itself on at midnight (as can be seen in the event log).
John
|
I was amazed by the 27 watts too.
The worst offender is the ntl broadband modem - costs about £30-£40 in electricity a year to run just that bit of kit, so well worth turning off when I can. Rather than running it 24 hours I now run it evenings and first thing in the morning only.
Anyway, back to your PC - tried using filemon / regmon or similar products to see exactly what is being done at midnight?
|
|
|
I think some of the sort of functionality you are talking about is built into the motherboard/BIOS; mine has lots of 'wake on ...' options which are all currently disabled. >>
Yes though the PC would have to be "On" rather than simply "Off" though with power to it for the BIOS to come into play.
|
|
|
|
|
Hello,
Mother-in-law's scannner power supply has failed, any idea where I can get a new one it is has a std 13amp built in plug and the common generic scanner / AV speakers charger type output plug, we have various similar ones from 9v to 30v including a 16v 900ma one that would do the job though it is in use.
Thanks.
|
|
Ebay.co.uk item number 330074253448 should do the trick! Or 330072498299 Hornby C912 is the item code. You will need to change the output connector, perhaps using the old one and connectors from a car electrical supplier.
|
|
Thanks LY, the plug even looks OK too!
|
I'd be careful, toy trains and scalextric don't care about the quality of the input power supply and that is reflected in the performance of the power supply, I very much doubt if it is well enough regulated or smoothed to run a scanner. Something like this is much more likely to work, although the 2.5A is overkill:-
www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?TabID=1&criteria=powe...1
|
|
|
No I am not trying to get past the sweary thing. My main pc was turned off yesterday as it was being moved on re-connecting and switching on nothing happens except for a beeping noise at roughly once a second. anyone got any ideas as to what is going on. Any pointers greatly appreciated as i dont trust repair shops with my pc too much personal info on it
|
Article here explains beep codes if that's any use.
tinyurl.com/yl23j6
|
Depending on your Bios it could be a memory problem. See:
www.bioscentral.com
for a list of beep codes for various manufacturers.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
|
Hi not sure what my Bios is the pc is aPackard Bell imedia 1307 and on checking the beeps it would appear as a 1-2 code that is a definite 1beep followed by a pause followed by 2 shorter quicker beeps this is continuos ie. 1-2 1-2 1-2 and so on. I have looked on the above site and the only refferences to this code seems to point to a video problem , would this stop the pc from booting up. thanks in advance...Keo.
|
|
|
|
................ Any pointers greatly appreciated as i dont trust repair shops with my pc too much personal info on it
When my computer needed some attention I temporarily copied all my personal files onto CD and then deleted them from my computer using the most secure deletion facility (7 passes) of CCleaner. tinyurl.com/3yeav It's free and I can recommend it.
--
L\'escargot.
|
|
Problem solved and believe it or not all it was, was the Ram chip had dislodged itself. must have happened when i moved the PC to install my new Broadband kit. So if anyone ever has a Packard Bell that is giving a 1-2 beep code check the ram module.... Many thanks for the help...Keo.
|
Glad it's solved - did suggest it could be a memory problem...:-)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
|
|
|
|
A side note to my recent KWorld DVB-T 300U digital TV USB card (don't worry, it still works perfectly!)
My MESH tower unit has two groups of USB ports, six in total: four on the back panel and two on the top face. For reasons of convenience I configured the TV using one of the latter, and as stated the card works properly.
Wanting to make the installation "permanent" however (I have now installed sliding rails for easy PC access when required and want to free up the two USB ports on the top face for ad-hoc use if I can) I found something interesting; if I plug the TV tuner USB plug in to one of the back panel set of four USB sockets, it is detected ("New hardware"), and the drivers install, but the tuner is not detected on reboot and the MCE Media Center can't see it either.
Plug it back in to either of the two top panel USB ports and it is detected and works fine.
Running the USBView.exe tool gives "Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller / Root Hub" for the four ports on the back panel, and "Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller / Root Hub" for the two ports on top.
Ideas, please?
Just curious.
If I can "fix", fine, but I'm not going to bust a gut since I do have, at last, a working TV.
|
From what I've been told / read about USB 1.1 and USB 2.0 the "Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller / Root Hub" means that the ones on the back are USB 1.1, and the word "enhanced" for the ones at the top mean they are USB 2.0 ports. When I reinstalled my desktop a while back the USB ports reverted back to USB 1.1 until I installed the correct USB 2.0 drivers for them.
Hope this helps
|
Hope this helps
Indeed it appears so, thank you.
I am surprised as the machine was tailor built to my order from a base unit specifically aimed at pretty serious AV processing and use as a media centre, from a builder (MESH) that targets this market, but your explanation fits perfectly. Why? There is no way in my book that a TV tuner would ever send data to a PC fast enough down USB 1.1.
Hmm. I wonder if I can get USB 2.0 drivers for them...
|
|
|
VR6 is correct is believing that "Enhanced" indicates USB2 - XP has USB drivers by default and most devices work "out of the box".
You should check in the Bios that you have the required number of USB2 ports Enabled.
Also try updating your motherboard drivers and see if this updates the Controller(s).
You'll find some information about Disabling the USB Root Hubs Conserve Power setting at this link:
www.usbman.com/WinME%20USB%20Guide.htm plus other useful information.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
The manual for my Dell clearly states 2 USB 2.0 ports on the front and 5 USB 2.0 ports on the rear panel however device manager lists:
Generic USB Root Hub
USB Universal Host Controllers
USB Universal Host Controllers
USB Universal Host Controllers
USB Universal Host Controllers
USB Universal Host Controllers
USB2 Enhanced Host Controller
USB Composite Device
USB Mass Storage Device
USB Root Hub
USB Root Hub
USB Root Hub
USB Root Hub
USB Root Hub
.... all enabled it would be intersting if there were a utility that confirmed each ports spec? Might help my DV via USB probs.
Where did you get USBview from, its for 98 and ME isnt it?
|
>>Where did you get USBview from, its for 98 and ME isnt it?
I got mine ages ago from Microsoft download. A quick browse shows they have renamed it UVCView, and having just downloaded this tool, it runs the same and at least on the surface looks the same and certainly gives the same results.
See www.microsoft.com/whdc/device/stream/vidcap/UVCVie...x?
Note versions x86, ia64, and x64.
Naturally I took the first one.
HTH.
|
|
BTW - Note that it doesn't install anything, it's just a runtime .exe.
|
Thanks, that seems to suggest that only the USB Mass Storage Device (13 way media card reader connected to internal port) is connected to the USB2 Enhanced Host Controller.
It could explain my DV via USB probs however the manual clearly says USB 2.0 ports on the front and 5 USB 2.0 ports on the rear panel.
More digging to do.
|
>>It could explain my DV via USB probs however the manual clearly says USB 2.0 ports on the front and 5 USB 2.0 ports on the rear panel.
We really do have frighteningly similar live of late! ;-)
Good luck.
|
We really do have frighteningly similar live of late! ;-)
We do, actually I have determined that the front two ports and internal port (13 way media card reader) ARE connected to the USB2 Enhanced Host Controller so this does not explain my DV via USB probs cos I used one of the front ports, oh well!
However it seems that the rear 5 USB ports are perhaps not 2.0 which is contrary to the manual.
Where's that phone number ...............
|
|
|
|
In my case it's:
Generic USB Root Hub
USB Mass Storage Device
USB Root Hub (8 in total)
Via Rev 5 or later USB Universal Host Controller (six in total, as set in Bios)
Via USB Enhanced Host Controller (2)
I'm using the two original USB2 ports, a four port PCI USB2.0 card plus a four port USB1.1 powered hub (used with a webcam) connected to one of the PCI card's USB2.0 ports. A 19-1 memory card reader/writer is also connected to a PCI USB2.0 port.
The Via Rev 5 or later is USB2.0 Enabled.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
The Via Rev 5 or later is USB2.0 Enabled.
How do you know that? Perhaps the fact that one enhanced controller exists and USB 2.0 is configured in the BIOS is enough?
My config is as follows ( ) indicate unused root hub ports:
USB Universal Host Controller
USB Root Hub
Port 1 - Rear panel port
Port 2 - Rear panel port
USB Universal Host Controller
USB Root Hub
(Port 1)
Port 2 - Rear panel port
USB Universal Host Controllers
USB Root Hub
Port 1 - Generic USB Root Hub
---------- Port 1 - Rear panel port
---------- (Port 2)
---------- (Port 3)
Port 2 - Rear panel port
USB Universal Host Controller
USB Root Hub
(Port 1)
(Port 2)
USB2 Enhanced Host Controller
USB Root Hub
(Port 1)
(Port 2)
Port 3 - Internal port for 13 way card reader
(Port 4)
(Port 5)
(Port 6)
Port 7 - Front panel port
Port 8 - Front panel port
|
It's the Via chipset USB host controller (V 5.1.2600.2180) provided by Microsoft and the six examples are listed, I presume, because I have six USB2.0 ports Enabled in the Bios.
The Viaarena website states: "There are critical portions of drivers for any USB2.0 controller and device which are the same for all USB2.0 controller and device drivers.
"Those critical portions are involved in a licensing agreements between various companies, including VIA. That does mean that the drivers are only available with new hardware that is either a USB2.0 device or hardware that includes a USB2.0 controller."
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
|
Double check your Bios - High speed isn't USB 2.0 - or it wasn't on my board - I have 8 ports on my machine - 4 built into the board at the rear and 4 via pins which can be routed to ports on the rear or front. The board mounted ones functioned as usb 2.0 whilst the others were usb 1 by default - ensure it's set to 'enhanced' or something similar - the bios will prompt you !
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I've recently bought a laptop with a wireless network card. I want to buy a wireless access point or router. The cheapest ones run at 11MBps (£14.99). I will only use it to connect to the internet, and not for networking with other PC's. My broadband connection is 1MB. Am I right in thinking that getting a 11MBps router will not slow down my internet connection? My logic tells me that the router is 11 times faster than my internet speed. Am I right?
|
Yes, but...
11mb/s is the top speed - throw in encryption, distance, walls, etc and you will see that theoretical 11 drop very quickly.
|
|
|
Am I right?
Yes, 802.11b standard wireless devices run at 11Mbps (megabit) or around 1.3 MBps (1.3 megabyte) however broadband speeds are also in Mbps not MBps so the router will be 11 times faster than you need, 802.11b is more than fast enough for 8Mbps broadband unless the signal is degraded due to the distance between the wireless devices.
The faster 802.11g protocol really only offers advatages in the speed of file sharing over a network.
|
|
Thanks Chedder, I've learnt something new today - the differences between MBps and Mbps. I'll order the wireless access point today.
|
|
|
|
|
Would like to buy a 5.1 active (powered) speaker system for the home office to take advantage of the tower unit having sound card with 5.1 (and for the record 6.1 capability in case a stonking deal is around) and corresponding set of 3.5mm output sockets. I don't want something tinny sounding, but equally don't expect hifi in the true sense as I have many thousands of pounds worth of kit sitting in the lounge to take care of that addiction.
Am familiar with all the usual names in the PC speaker market, and that it is likely to a "sub and small satellites" solution, but am open to advice regarding current hot deals, please; personally, I would "spend", but the missus thinks I've "spent quite enough, thank you" on the PC itself already, so outright price plays a part for the sake of harmony.
The subwoofer will go under the desk area, the front and center speakers on top, and the rear speakers (I hate this in the hifi sense, but okay here) will be wall mounted. Home office is approx 3mx3m. Sound will be used occasionally for watching tv and needs to stay reasonably "tight" if the volume is turned up, but mainly for editing home video, background music when not engrossed in detail work, and Microsoft Flight Simluator.
Many thanks!
|
I have read good things about these:
www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=SP-0...G
www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=SP-0...L
The 550 and 750 are more expensive version of the latter.
These would be hard to match at the price:
www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=SP-0...L
I have an excellent Creative X-Fi sound card and use (also excellent) Boston Acoustic 2.1 digital speakers that I have had a few years, we have 5.1 AV in the lounge so enough speakers already.
|
Thanks, cheddar; the latter deal slashes my expectation of price. Will do some research to see if I'll likely be happy. (The price is great, but not if the sound is dire! ;-) Could "get by" with stereo or 2.1 in the office, but with deals so commonly around - as you have shown - thought I'd hang out for 5.1 plus sub if I can.
We have 5.1 in the lounge too, but the PC is currently used solely in the office. Admittedly when I buy a Pinnacle Showcentre WiFi box to control the XP Media Center PC from, and stream video to, the lounge TV, then I will use the lounge speakers, but not when in the office itself.
|
These would be hard to match at the price: www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=SP-0...L
Seem to actually be okay:
tinyurl.com/5haak
tinyurl.com/y4dsx6
Typically available for the forty quid mark from a number of UK websites, so if Overclockers add hefty p&p, I have a choice.
Job done; thanks cheddar.
|
Job done; thanks cheddar.
No g'tees from me though I had heard they were excellent for the money, the 5800s are not actually listed by Creative UK any more, only US. Slightly higher range ones here, the 6100s are are only £5 more thatn the 5800s with free P&p from Amazon:
www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Inspire-T6100-5-1-Speake...s
uk.europe.creative.com/products/product.asp?catego...4
www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Labs-51MF-4075-AA00/dp/B...s
uk.europe.creative.com/products/product.asp?catego...0
|
|
|
|
My son has a Mesh computer. It came with a CD-RW drive and a separate DVD-ROM drive. Last year, when the machine was about three years old, the DVD drive stopped recognising any disc inserted. I replaced the drive and all seemed to be well for a while. He tells me that there now seems to be a similar but slightly different problem. The drive will recognise and correctly process game DVDs, but when a video DVD (typically a film) is inserted, it's not recognised by the playing software (which defaults to PowerDVD). When PowerDVD is kicked up, it knows there is a DVD in the drive but won't play it. Same happens with Windows Media Player. I have checked out the event viewer in administrative tools and various other internal gubbins but can't find anything, and can only conclude that the drive has gone faulty again.
Anyone any suggestions - has another drive really gone faulty or is there something else I could try? TIA.
|
|
What do you see when looking at the drive in explorer with a DVD film inserted? If the drive displays correctly with Video_TS and Audio_TS folders then I would think it is a SW problem of some sort, if the folders aren't displayed then it does sound like a drive HW problem.
|
|
At least new DVD-ROM drives are fairly cheap now if it is the drive. Try running a lens cleaner through the drive(s), it may be as simple as that also make sure that the actual DVDs are free of muck.
|
|
I'll give it a whirl when I get home - although I need to remember to buy a lens cleaner first! And it's odd that it's ALL films that don't work yet games software is fine. I would have thought that data is data irrespective of meaning. Thanks for the idea anway.
|
|
A wild guess; have the file extensions accidentally been changed or disassociated with normal behaviour? In Internet Explorer, open Tools / Folder Options / File Types to check / update as required.
|
OK, have now had a chance to view problem first hand, When I put the DVD in, I see the title in Windows explorer. I get prompted for which program to open it with (which are all video DVD players, so it knows it is a video DVD). However, the program dowsn't seem to open. When I open it manually, it just sits there for as long as you like whizzing the DVD round but getting nowhere. Similarly, in windows explorer, it won't open it, just sits there for a minute or so, then just turns mouse back to arrow - no error messages, no nothing!
I'll buy a lens cleaner today, but certainly seems odd.
|
|
Check your drive's firmware - go to the manufacturers web site and see if there is an update - The 'security software' with most of today's games can cause all sorts of issues with DVD drives and discs - my drive played up (despite up-to-date firmware) until the manufacturer released a newer version - all has been fine in 12 months.
|
|
The only other thing I can think of is a video codec problem - what happens if you try and play an MPG or AVI from the HDD rather than DVD drive?
|
|
|
|
Having tried the lens cleaner, it now seems to work every third time.....first time nothing, second time it usually just stutters the video/sound, then stops and freezes the programme, then third time lucky. I have found some "bad block" messages in event viewer, which seems to imply some sort of read error rather than a direct software error.
When Windows Explorer does deign to open it, it does correctly show the video and audio folders.
I'll try the firmware option next.
|
|
|
|
|
I am unable print out an e,mail - confirmation of my ferry booking - and have tried everything to resolve the issue without success.
My printer will print from Notepad - as per the troubleshooting instructions, but refuses to print an e.mail.
I get the following error message;
Internet Explorer Script Error.
An error has occurred in the script on this page.
Line 2020;
Char: 1;
Error: Unspecified Error;
Code: 0;
URL :res://ieframe.dll/preview.dlg;
Do you want to continue running scripts on this page?
Yes No
I'm using Outlook Express and I'm confused about the Internet Explorer error. I've tried printing without IE running but get the same error message.
Can anyone help?
|
R
as a work around why not cut 'n paste the email into Notepad or whatever else works and print from there? In the email CTRL A to select all, CTRL C to copy, hop across to Notepad and then CTRL V to paste, voila! If the format matters, do a screen print (CTRL and Prt Scr for the whole screen or Alt and Prt Scr for the active window) and paste as before. Then you can debug the root cause at your leisure.
JH
|
|
Thanks JH. I printed out my booking but it doesn't look good to present at check in. I've tried everything I know including uninstalling IE 7 but I'm still getting the same error message. Does anybody have any idea of the problem? Thanks
|
See the postings at:
www.askmehelpdesk.com/advice/t-1804.html
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
Absolutely brilliant Stuart. That's fixed it. I've no idea what caused the problem.
Many thanks.
|
|
|
|
From CRQ vol 113 at www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=47...3
I use this for the conversion: shellcompress.zwobot.com/
Thanks, Stuartli. I downloaded and installed this little tool earlier ce soir. Neat to use directly from right mouse button in Windows Explorer wherever the source file is .MPG, and although the result is pixelated and the sound mono, for the first time to us it means sending video of our twins to family abroad is viable; Sure, I'll still edit video and author DVDs (one of the reasons I purchased the new PC) but it's nice to be able to whizz something off quickly whilst it's still fresh. A trial run on a 54MB .mpg file resulted in a 2MB .mp4 file, and on a 33MB .mpg file a 1.5MB .mp4 file; no different to a four megapixel .jpg.
Set the player window to something like a third of normal size and the result is perfectly watchable.
Many thanks!
|
>>although the result is pixelated and the sound mono>>
I'm surprised at that result. I cannot tell the difference viewing a normal MPEG2 TV recording using my Twinhan Freeview PCI TV card of around 1GB to that of the H264 file of about a sixth of that size; that applies to full screen viewing in Window Media Player 10 on a 21in monitor.
Microsoft and Apple do emphasise that H264 compression is astonishingly good and I've found the claims to be spot on.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What's for you won't pass you by
|
H264 file of about a sixth of that size
Interesting, ta; for some reason the amount of compression I get is much more than that at something over twenty times. Handy for the e-mail reason given (so we don't wish to lose this feature!) but I will see if there is something that can be adjusted to also give the result you describe (would be handy for other things some times).
|
SjB
Have you thought of hosting the video and posting a link rather than emailing it? I use box.net, which gives you 1GB of free storage with the possibility of assigning a unique (and obscure) url to shared files. The video can be downloaded or viewed directly using a web browser. There are limits on the file size with the free service, but the paid for version is only a few dollars a month.
|
Have you thought of hosting the video and posting a link rather than emailing it?
Thanks, Baskerville; an excellent idea and I will look in to box.net and their ilk, but as it happens one of my homework projects when time permits is to set up an old Dell laptop that I have (still perfectly serviceable though) as an FTP site with very restricted concurrent users. The FTP bit is relatively easy, but what I don't want to do is to turn the relative Fortress of our current home network in to one of Mr Reid's open prisons. Perhaps a DMZ is therefore a good idea, but I need to read and take advice first as this is new territory for me (hence if I am honest also an interesting reason to want to do it)
|
>> Have you thought of hosting the video and posting a link rather than emailing it? Thanks, Baskerville; an excellent idea and I will look in to box.net and their ilk, but as it happens one of my homework projects when time permits is to set up an old Dell laptop that I have (still perfectly serviceable though) as an FTP site with very restricted concurrent users.
If you're into this territory Linux really is your friend from a security point of view, to say nothing of the free server software (FTP, HTTP, Sendmail, Samba etc.) available. There is also an application called Webmin which allows you to administer the server box using a web browser (HTTPS). Really pretty easy and good fun for a homework project--the software is all "select and click" easy to install. I used to run an old HP laptop like this and it worked really well until the hardware finally said enough was enough. I'd have a play with Mepis Linux as it's dead easy to install.
|
If you're into this territory Linux really is your friend from a security point of view, to say nothing of the free server software (FTP, HTTP, Sendmail, Samba etc.) available.
TVM, Baskerville. Thread bookmarked for when the time comes.
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Stuart; intrigued by our differing results, I posted a question and quickly received an answer; so now we know, and I have something to meddle with! See original link (shellcompress.zwobot.com/ ) for conversation with the software author.
|
>>See original link (shellcompress.zwobot.com/ ) for conversation with the software author.>>
Just noticed this...:-)
There may be two reasons in my case - one that it's usually PVR TV recordings I'm compressing from my PCI Freeview card and, secondly, that one or two relevant codecs have had to be shelved. This is due to ShowShifter (which I occasionally use instead of the Twinhan card's software) being unable to operate with these codecs.
Fortunately it doesn't affect Windows Media Player, Real or QuickTime Alternative etc.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi SJB
See my latest post re speakers before ordering. Creative 6100s, 40quid from Amazon, free P&P.
|
Hi SJB See my latest post re speakers before ordering. Creative 6100s, 40quid from Amazon, free P&P.
Thanks cheddar; I found that too yesterday, but after I'd ordered! ;-) Never mind - you still pointed me in the direction of something a lot better than I thought I'd get for a lot less than I thought I'd pay, so when they arrive it looks like I will be happy. For that I still thank you. Cheers.
|
Creative 5800 speakers arrived today; would have been happy if I'd paid a hundred notes. For fifty including p&p, and available even cheaper than that as discussed above, they are a veritable bargain; we are not talking high end hifi such as I am lucky to have sitting in the lounge, but none the less perfectly listenable, with a nicely open 5.1 soundstage. The bass is not house foundation rattlingly extended but is more than deep enough to add real substance and weight, and the five satellite speakers (the center one of which is even a dedicated speech driver of different design) in turn are smooth rather than sharp and don't get muffled and muddled as a consequence. Watching and listening to Kylie, recorded over the weekend on XP Media Center, was not a hardship!
Build quailty is even on the good side of reasonable too; no flashing marks or sharp edges, all the shut lines marry accurately with each other, the rear control panel on the active sub is substantial and cleanly designed, the transformer is more than adequately specced, the wired remote "volume and bass" control has a headphone socket built in for convenience*, the finish is easy on the eye, and you can even remove the grilles if you wish. Heck, you even get an easy to understand instruction sheet explaining the different setup options depending on the sound card doing the driving (5.1 / 6.1 / 7.1 / others).
Truly, surprised.
Got a lot more than I expected.
My only complaint - just like many of the reviews on the web - is that the supplied cables are too short; being properly terminated with plugs and not "free ends" causes extra work to extend them.
Now to do a tidy, hidden cable, installation in the home office.
Thanks, cheddar!
*Handier than I guessed it would be. Why? With 5.1 selected on the PC soundcard, the headphone jack also outputs coded 5.1! skkkkkkkrrrrrrrrrrr wheeeeeeeeeee shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh etc! Rather than have to switch back to stereo when I want to use headphones I can simply plug them in to the surround speaker handset.
|
Handier than I guessed it would be. Why? With 5.1 selected on the PC soundcard, the headphone jack also outputs coded 5.1!
To be exact: "With 5.1 selected on the PC soundcard, the headphone jack also outputs coded 5.1 when listening to XP Media Center. When listening via any other player such as Windows Media Player or Realplayer, headphone output is stereo even when 5.1 is selected on the sound card". Whatever; it's irrelevant for the handy reason described.
|
|
|
Creative 5800 speakers >> Truly, surprised. Got a lot more than I expected.
Good news!
Any further progress re USB?
|
|
|
|
|
|
jtsang.blogspot.com/2006/07/media-center-2005-vs-d...l
|
|
There's a lovely typo in that article: "With the impeding release of Windows Vista..." Erm, quite.
|
Strictly speaking and to be fair it's not a typo, more a reference to what was due to be happening in the near future...:-)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
|
|
|
|
Hi,
I am running F-Secure AV and anti spyware, twice recently it has identified links to this site, both the home page and Technical, as browser hijack attempts, Discussion is not mentioned. Of the 100's of sites listed in my Favourites only one other has a similar issue, the Airbus site.
Any thoughts?
|
Something to do with the advertising links?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
|
|
|
I have just replaced the motherboard in my nephews computer, as it was not working and this seemed the last thing we'd tested which could be the cause. (Upon performing the replacement, I've found that he had somehow unplugged the CD drives from the motherboard altogether, and connected the IDE cable from the HDD to both IDE sockets on the motherboard. Whether this was what was actually wrong, or whether it may have damaged the motherboard is interesting but largely irrelevant now.)
Anyway, I've fitted everything, turned on, and all seemed well, except I've now come across two major problems.
1) The motherboard (an aBit), when reaching the manufacturers ad screen during boot-up, is emitting a siren noise through the internal speaker. I can't find anything in the documentation about warning sirens, anyone any idea what this is?
2) It was freezing at this point too with a post-code of 75 (Detecting and installing IDE devices), but by removing the CD drives I've got it to go further. Unfortunately it then says 'DISC BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISC AND PRESS ENTER'. Clearly the HD is a system disc, with Windows XP on it. Any ideas about this one?
Thanks for any help.
|
OK, I've got one step further:
I had connected the HD with the grey (slave) IDE connector. Having changed to the bacl (master) connector, I no longer get the caps lock warning, it just goes to 'Boot from CD:' and stops there instead.
|
The failure to find XP means it has not found an OS on the default boot device. With the new motherboard is is set to boot from a HD in the BIOS. I assume you've done that but:
1. You have set the boot order in BIOS to be HD haven't you?
2. Depending on jumpers on the hard drive and if using cable select on the IDE cable instead, the actual boot drive might not be picked up
3. If a totally different MB and especially chipset, even when it find the HD you might need a re-install of XP. Different device drivers etc. Just do an in place upgrade when booting of the XP install CD.
The CAPS lock warning is a bit worrying when you say it goes when you swap the IDE connector.... does not make sense.
|
1. You have set the boot order in BIOS to be HD haven't you?
Yep
2. Depending on jumpers on the hard drive and if using cable select on the IDE cable instead, the actual boot drive might not be picked up
On the first screen that flashes up, it's listing a Samsung HD, so I assume it's finding it.
3. If a totally different MB and especially chipset, even when it find the HD you might need a re-install of XP. Different device drivers etc. Just do an in place upgrade when booting of the XP install CD. The CAPS lock warning is a bit worrying when you say it goes when you swap the IDE connector.... does not make sense.
I think (but not sure) that it had failed with the HD, but was trying the CD and stalled at that point, since I'd pulled the power on the CD drive.
|
|
|
|
|
So you've changed the motherboard but you are using the HD install from the previous motherboard and expect it to work? You'll need to reinstall XP, or at the very least repair it using the CD. You'll then need to phone Microsoft to tell them what you've done and convince them you are not an evil criminal trying to steal their wonderful creation.
|
Really? Replacing the motherboard will stop windows from working?
On my own computer I've had the motherboard replaced with no such issue. Mind you, it was an identical motherbaord, so is that why?
But surely windows would fail at a later point, not claim there was no bootable device, as this appears to be doing?
|
If you're correct, then I suppose I can try to re-install the old motherboard and see if I can get anything working with that. (Since my nephew isn't here, I have no idea where his Windows CD might be)
Oh joy, I do enjoy removing and replacing motherboards!
|
|
|
Windows XP (non-corporate) tracks hardware changes. When you make more changes during a given period than allowed you will have to re-register the copy. Changes include:
- Changes to hard drives
- Changed CPU
- Changed graphic card
- Chipset
- Amount of memory
- .... you get the idea
So if you put in an identical motherboard then XP would not notice or care. But put in a new one and it still might not care except you still need to re-install XP because the drivers etc. that are needed are different.
So if it's just the motherboard it might be okay but how hard drives and CD's are recognised might make XP think it's a new PC.
Besides if you need to do a re-install you might need to re-register. But with a valid XP license it's not a problem and a new motherboard a valid reason for a new install.
Your last comment is still right.... XP might fail because of changes but you're not even getting that far. See my post above .... took a while to hit post so appears higher up even though "older".
Post back if you need some more questions answering.
|
>>Windows XP (non-corporate) tracks hardware changes
Yup! Include resetting USB drivers (remove via System / Drivers and reinstall via reboot) in the list. I did exactly this earlier this evening and on restart got a message to the effect of "XP has detected that your system has changed substantiality since original activation. Please re-activate within three days". Following the link to re-activate then resulted in "sorry, this product has been reactivated too many times; please telephone instead and quote this revised activation code: blah blah blah". I assume this is because the PC came pre-installed but by choice I then wiped the HDDs and started again, followed by the need to re-activate again, followed by today's need.
So, I phoned the number given, entered my revised activation code of many digits at the prompt, and started to get impatient; re-activating was an unwanted barrier after all (as was having to reset USB ports, but anyway). The result of getting impatient was hitting "1" a nano second after the recorded voice had asked "How many PCs is your copy of Windows installed on?", and then hearing "press 1 if more than one PC" . . .
Daft predictive logic or impatient SjB was irrelevant; the result was my reactivation was blocked, confirmed by hanging up and trying again.
I had to wait to be put through to an operator, explain what had happened, and get yet another one time reactivation code, which worked!
Yes, one time; if ever I need to re-activate again, I must get another one-time code, my original code having been exhausted forever.
|
(as was having to reset USB ports, but anyway). >>
So has this worked, if so how did you do it? Are they now all USB2.0, if so how do you know?
Regards.
|
|
|
"XP has detected that your system has changed substantiality since original activation. Please re-activate within three days".
See, if the issue was that the OS didn't like the new motherboard, this is what I would expect to see, not my error message, which suggests a non-bootable disc.
However, on another forum it has been suggested to me that the different BIOS might use a completely different part of the disc as the boot sector, so to all intents and purposes it IS seeing a non bootable disc.
Either way, the only thing I have left to try is to re-replace the motherboard and hope that the double HD connection my nephew managed to create didn't cause it any damage.
There's something to look forward to when I get home from work tonight.
|
|
|
|
|
|
If XP, or any OS I guess, was installed with a given hardware configuration it may or may not not work when that configuration changes (mileage varies depending on how the OS manages new hardware at boot time, the availability of drivers, and just how radical the hardware change is). A new motherboard is a very radical change I'd say and the odds are not that great. If your version of Windows is a version that came preinstalled with the PC you have even more problems as it may not work with anything but the original hardware configuration. You can't use the limited "install" disks from an HP machine with one from Dell for instance; when the machine dies, so effectively does that license. Only a "full" version of XP will be re-usable. An additional issue is that if you've registered XP with Microsoft it will expect you to re-register XP with this new hardware, but that assumes the XP install works even a little bit.
|
I've had two changes of motherboard since first starting using XP Pro.
The key is to undertake an XP Repair from first bootup after installing the motherboard as XP doesn't always take to a new mobo.
Full details of an XP Repair, to save me typing it out, at:
www.michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htm
Note that you keep selecting Install until the choice of a Repair and NOT the Recovery Console.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
>> (as was having to >> reset USB ports, but anyway). >> So has this worked, if so how did you do it? Are they now all USB2.0, if so how do you know?
I still have the problem; having uninstalled the drivers as requested and rebooted, Windows has reinstalled them but the back panel still seems to be USB 1.1.
In System / Hardware I now have:
Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller
Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller
USB Mass storage device
USB Root Hub
USB Root Hub
The tv tuner is still not recognised if plugged in to the back panel USB ports where I need it and only works when plugged in to those on top of the PC.
What is odd though is that when "Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller" (ie USB 1.1) was uninstalled, the tv tuner "disappeared" from the list of Audio and Visual drivers and having rebooted to installed these USB drivers I now also have to re-install the tv tuner. I don't understand this as the top panel is certainly USB 2.0.
|
Have a look at www.usbman.com.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
As per SJB I have a possible issue re USB.
In fact the same issue (though, no, it is not the same PC manufacturer!), it seems to me that the five USB ports on the rear of the PC are not USB2.0. It is apparent that USB2.0 is provided when the USB ports are connected to a "USB2 Enhanced Host Controller", either the reference to "USB2" or the word "Enhanced" are required.
However on my system the rear ports are connected to a "USB Universal Host Controller". Only the front ports and the internal port for the media card reader are connected to a "USB2 Enhanced Host Controller".
This conflicts with the manual for the system which clearly states that ALL USB ports are USB2.0.
Does anyone have any more info on this? Perhaps only one USB2 / Enhanced controller has to be present to enable USB2.0 though the system config does not suggest any link between the "Enhanced" controller and the rear ports.
Thanks.
|
Are the maximum number of USB2.0 ports Enabled in the Bios?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
It's under Integrated Perripherals>USB Controllers in the case of my AMI Bios - I have it set for eight USB ports as I have two ports on the motherboard, a four port USB2.0 PCI card and run a powered USB (1.1) hub from one of the PCI ports.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
|
|
|
I seem to have an increasing number of adverts opping up on my PC. I assume that these are technically not pop-ups as they evade the blocker. They are often "by outerinfo" or microsoft. We've recently installed new ISP software and I'm wondering if the software has enabled the ads.
_______
IanS
|
firefox & adblock plus sorts out most ads.
a quick google says that outerinfo is spyware installed on your machine and there are variou links to removal progs.
whats the isp? what os & browser are you running. what firewall & a/v
|
Thanks Adverse.
ISP is BT, we're running XP and Internet Explorer. We are running Norton but thinking of a change. Any suggestions?
_______
IanS
|
Zone Alarm free is a pretty good firewall, although Comodo has been getting good reports.
Anti- virus - there will be as many opinions as there are backroom members! Free ones reckoned are AVG and Avast. Among the paid for ones,I personally use NOD32 from www.Eset.com (never missed an "in the wild" virus in 7 years) or Kaspersky, a very good offering from Russia.
Tip - if you actually buy on line try to find a seller in the USA and pay in USD. Both the GBP & the Euro are good against the USD at present.. My Spanish based reseller wanted 27 Euros for a 1 year NOD32 license renewal - I found a US re-seller where the price was 27 USD, which converted to around 21 Euros.
Norton is a female canine to remove, but if you go to Symantec's site, there is a removal tool available to download.
Roger. (Costa del Sol, España)
|
New version of ZoneAlarm (free) out today (7.0.302.000). Quite a big download as it includes a Security Suite, which doesn't have to be installed because, as most likely, it will not be wanted:
www.majorgeeks.com/ZoneAlarm_Free_d388.html
I've posted this link as the ZoneLabs website can be somewhat confusing.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
I was reminded yesterday by ZoneAlarm that a new version is available but I've been a bit dilatory and have not yet downloaded it. What exactly does the Security Suite do?
--
L\'escargot.
|
>>What exactly does the Security Suite do?>>
See:
download.zonelabs.com/bin/free/pressReleases/2006/...l
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
>>What exactly does the Security Suite do?>> See: download.zonelabs.com/bin/free/pressReleases/2006/...l
And there was me imagining it would be free! It's just updates to the free firewall that I want.
--
L\'escargot.
|
Download it from here:
tinyurl.com/2rw9rf
Don't know if it still includes the Security Suite (which, as I stated earlier, you can choose not to install).
I provided the MajorGeeks link originally as the ZoneLabs website can be a bit of a minefield to find the free version.
There's a new style and layout now though so, hopefully, things are a little better.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
|
|
|
PC running Win XP and IE, version says 6.0.2900. Also Ad-Aware and McAfee VirusScan.
I recently installed a couple of Windows Updates - the Malicious Software Removal Tool KB890830 and Security Update KB929969. After installing them, the text size has become much larger on a lot of sites (this site doesn't seem to be affected), as though I had set the Appearance settings to Extra Large Fonts. However when I right-click on the desktop, then Properties -> Appearance, the f******** box is set to Normal. The only two other options are Large Fonts and Extra Large Fonts, but I thought Smaller and Smallest (or something like that) were also available previously. Also, I've tried selecting Large Fonts and it makes a difference to the size of the text on my desktop icons, whereas returning it to Normal leaves them as they were, but doesn't cure IE.
The only recent change I've made to the system is the Windows Updates mentioned above - all was normal beforehand, then the text on a lot of sites was FAR TOO BIG after installing them. Is there a way to sort this out? If not, do I actually need those Windows Updates given that I have the other two programmes?
--
andymc
Vroom, vroom - mmm, doughnuts ...
|
The starred out bit should read "f********".
--
andymc
Vroom, vroom - mmm, doughnuts ...
|
|
|
In Internet Explorer go to View>Text size>Medium.
This is the best all round f******** and also produces correctly printed e-mails.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
...oh dear, the swear filter is all at sea.
It is, of course, f o n t size
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
..and I meant, of course, to click on Medium to enable it.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
Ah, that's got it! All back to normal (medium) as it was before. Thanks Stuartli, very quick response too! I was going about it the wrong way. I wonder what caused the change ...
--
andymc
Vroom, vroom - mmm, doughnuts ...
|
I wonder what caused the change ...>>
Sometimes happens out of the blue and, if it does, it may take two or three attempts to get IE to allow it.
As you are probably aware, Outlook Express uses IE configuration in many areas so it's also affected i.e. e-mails are printed out in small or ver large f o n t sizes depending on the IE setting.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
|
|
|
|
...oh dear, the swear filter is all at sea.
Not really. The word "Font size" was added to the swearfilter to prevent overlarge text being posted after one or two members decided to get overly silly with the html tags. DD.
|
|
|
|
|
|
