'Tis very odd!
Its a 1986 "Classic" manual with fuel injection, and usually I quite like it. However......
Its just had surgery to repair rust for its MOT, so you think it'd be grateful. No chance! Every 3 or 4 miles or so it cuts out. Dead. Without warning. In the most embarressing places like the middle of roundabouts. Leave it for about 5 minutes and it starts and runs fine for about 4 miles then it does it again. I've replaced the petrol filter, and checked that when its stopped fuel is still being pumped by disconnecting hose and cranking over. (fortunately the rear floor was removed for the welding so its easy to get at.) I've even tried bypassing the filter in case it was faulty/clogged.
It never does it when ticking over in the drive, so it seems to be either when something is getting hotter under load, or after a few minutes at 50+ mph, tho' not always as I was hardly moving at the roundabout - tho' I'd been on a dual carriageway just before.
Any suggestions anyone?? (other than scrap it, I've only just paid for the MOT)
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Could be electrical. If it's just had surgery, battery should be disconnected before welding. Are the battery connections tight? Check both ends of the wires in case they've been pulled and are a bit loose.
Chris
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i would suggest the tank was disturbed and something has moved and is blocking fuel line
ive had this before now with other vehicles
so it never shows till vehicle moving
last time it was a piece of plastic bag (dont even ask how that got down the nozzle?)
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Had similar, and it was the little amplifier on the side of the distributor. Check you have sparks when it quits on you.
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Manual or automatic?
Does it cut out when cruising, or when you lif off the accelerator pedal?
We had an E-reg EFI one that had a problem of cutting out when amouvering etc... for a couple of years, the problem turned out to be the cheap old and insufficient rating battery a PO fitted. As soon as this was replaced with a decent new one it never did it again.
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Apologies for delay in replying to above suggestions. Unfortunately, I have a long commute to work so only get to see the thing in daylight at weekends so this is the first chance I?ve had to play with it.
In answer to suggestions above:-
When it cut out I disconnected fuel line at exit of filter, cranked engine and got lots of petrol (one suggestion I?d had was a blocked petrol filter which I?d already changed). Admittedly I haven?t disconnected it at the injectors (that?s next thing to try when it stops raining)
Also, when it stops I can remove a lead, put a plug on it and confirm there is a spark ? I must admit I?ve seen better - its a bit yellow, but its there and is no different when the engine is running or not. It also cuts out both under load and on the over-run. It has a suppressor on the side of the coil, which I wouldn?t expect in a modern system. Presumably it was added for electrical suppression for the radio. Disconnecting it made no difference.
I tried it again this morning on my test route. I can almost predict to the lay-by when it?ll happen ? about once every 4 miles. It doesn?t appear to be speed dependent (I?ve tried it at 1500 revs and at 3000 revs). When it has stopped running and is and coasting the rev counter is still working. After I pull over it remains completely dead for about 3 to 4 minutes ? and then it starts and runs quite normally until the next time. As there is still a spark and the rev counter is working I?m guessing its probably something to do with the fuel injection.
Bring back a couple of S U carbs,points and coil ignition (or even a Magneto) . I understood them!!!!!
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pvmw
Odd things to try - in no particular order.
The ECU's coolant temp sensor.
Fuelling earth point hidden on the back of the N/S head.
The little, black, in-line resistor block connected to the coil negative- and it's connexions. [It's the fuelling's engine-speed sensor.]
The diode block on the fuelling relay rail.
The ECU itself.
The aforementioned ignition amplifier bolted to the side of the distributor would have been my prime candidate - but.....
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Ecu's don't often fail-usually it's the earth or one of the connectors.
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jc2
Normally, I'd totally agree with that... "Think ECU last" - but a Lucas 14CUX can never be described as a paragon of reliability...
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I'm talking REAL ECU's not toys.
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I've just had a thought!!
Yesterday I put petrol in it, and nothing went wrong for about 40 miles. This evening it stopped again, and from the recesses of my mind.................
.......I've replaced petrol filter and hoses - and don't recall seeing any sort of tank vent. I've just had a look and the petrol cap has non-vented stamped on it. So:- Where is the tank vented, or should I have a filler cap with a breather hole in it - and has the source of all my problems possibly be a partial vacuum being created in the tank?????
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try it without, but RR tanks have a seperate vent.
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try it without, but RR tanks have a seperate vent.
I shall, but where is the vent? It'd be interesting to check it, as I've been spraying everything with gallons of waxoil while the floor was out I might have accidently blocked it.
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I think they have a bunch of pipes that come out of the top. IIRC there were 2 types, the only difference being the number of fittings for vent, return, overflow etc.
Has it not had a new tank yet? They usually rust around the seam after 8 or 10 years, so it's probably time for it's second replacement. Lol.
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