I have a 96 model with 60k on the clock. Owned and regularly 10k serviced and oil changed from new, (by me since warranty, using synthetic oil).
Having left it standing for 5 weeks recently I started it and it unfortunately fired and started immediately. Obviously whilst standing, all oil (it is very thin! in oil ways and bearings had drained out and for the first few revs it sounded more like a diesel!
Since it is likely to be used in this way fairly frequently in the future is there an easy way to prevent it firing immediately so that cranking brings up the oil pressure? I am not averse to taking out a fuse eg, but do I run into further problems with petrol contamination of catalyst? or loss of ECU settings which can be even less desirable? The plug leads are not immediately accessible in the dark!
PS For info - Alarm on same car.
Having had intermittent alarm problems I finally traced problem to iffy contact on bonnet switch when closed. The fault could be replicated off car by fully closing (making contact) and wobbling plunger which then showed as only very occasional high resistance. Worth knowing about since on this factory fitted alarm it is impossible to lock car using key with central locking without setting alarm. I was not popular with neighbours particularly since I was away.. Haynes manual has no info on alarm wiring!
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with regard to the fiesta, and your not wanting it to start on first firing, there is a better way to solve this problem. I can't remember what it is called, but there is some oil available which remains around all areas of the engine for considerably longer than normal oil. Any decent motor accessory store should be of help.
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Hi Peter,
I have often wondered myself over this same problem.
I have a Vectra 2.0 diesel and this often stands for over a week at a time.
When I come to fire it up it fires up instantly and I would much prefer a bit of churning over before it fires up but with these modern electronics its a bit of a problem.
I also have a 2.0 maestro diesel and on this the manual states that upon an oil change the engine must be spun over until the oil warning light goes out to ensure that the turbo has adequate lubrication. There is a electric connector plug near the solenoid on the injection pump which can be disconnected for this purpose. However I routed the cable through into the dashboard and then through a switch which not only works for an oil change but is also a crude security device.
However on the Vectra I would be apprehensive how to accomplish this with all the modern electronics which frighten me to death with all the stories you hear, about the damage they can sustain just by looking at them never mind cutting wires. And this is progress.
One thing though is that when i recently changed the fuel filter on the Vectra I forgot to fill it with diesel before fitting.
As a consequence it wouldn't fire up for a little while so I suppose that is a crude way to achieve the same object. However I have no doubt that this would be harming something else along the line......
Perhaps you could speak to your local main dealer mechanic and ask how after an engine rebuild they get the oil pressure up before starting the engine for the first time. Or do they....
regards
Alvin
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Quite often the problem with cars with hydraulic tappets is that somone had used a cheap oil filter that does not contain a non-return valve. This valve doesn't keep all the oil at the top of the engine, but cetrainly helps. Castrol advertises semi synthetic Magnatexc as stickign to all parts of thee ngine so everything is instantly lubricated. But Mobil will tell you that the best oil is a 0W /30 or a 0W / 40 as this is thinner when cold and circylates faster. Next best, a 5 W / 30, etc.
HJ
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It should be possible to contrive a method to allow you to spin up the oil pressure prior to starting by disabling the fuel supply. I shall investigate and report back. Another thing you could try is to revert back to a semi-synthetis 5w30 and try and source a product called FX1 or ZX1. It is an engine treatment, NOT an oil treatment, which bonds to moving metal surfaces and cushions them. It is not PTFE based like Slick 50. We discovered it about 8-9 years ago when we ran it in a Chevy engined Lola T70. We discovered that the engine ran cooler both oil and water temperatures instantly and when we suffered TOTAL lubrication failure due to a failed dry sump gasket ran several laps of Silverstone flat out with absolutely NO engine damage. If you can't find it locally try Nigel Hulme on 01342 712774.
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The fuel pump inertia switch is the easiest way to go. Look in the handbook for its' location. Then as Adam says, cut one wire and interrupt it wit a good quality toggle or push switch. Either squirrel it away inside the glovebox or closer to hand.
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Peter,
The best way to disable the fuel AND ignition systems is to remove the tw-pin connector from the crank ange sensor located on the flywheel housing, but this may be difficule to access. The ignition alone can be disabled by removing the 3-pin connector from the coil pack, but this will still leave the fuel system active and could result if flooding / fouled plugs, also washing oil off the bores / rings. NEVER try cranking engine with the plug leads removed but ignition still enabled, as you risk damage to the management system. If my colleague Andrew Moorey can identify an easy way to disable the fuel system alone this should also serve your purpose.
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The easiest and safest way to prevent an engine starting would be to trip the fuel pump inertia switch - i think its located in the spare wheel well check with the operator's manual. The safest way to trip it is to remove it and turn it upside down and refit it. Otherwise, just pull the multiplug off it. If the car has been standing for a week, there will be NO residual fuel pressure in the system, so tripping the inertia switch will disable to fuel pump and therefore no starting!! When oil pressure has been attained, reset the switch as per the operator's manual. Hope this is of some help.
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David,
Perfectly sound idea, which I had considered, but I think that on the Fiesta the inertia switch is located behind the trim panel to the right of the drivers feet. It is easy to reset via an access hole, but not so easy to remove and 'trip' or disconnect as those fitted in the boot. If one has gone to the trouble of removing the panel and the switch it would be very easy to interupt one of the two wires with on on-off switch which could be hidden somewhere under the dash, doubling as an anti-theft device.
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